VLOG <> PLOG <> BLOG'S ..... of Hair Color, Cut and Styling Tricks of the KILLER CHEMIST

as a side note here....

I have all the tools....

I am trying to turn this into a PLOG--VLOG & BLOG.......it will be an all out 'OG' session if I can ever learn all of the shit I have to....to put it together properly!

Received the mannequin heads....the million dollar hard drive Camcorder.... Tri-Pod - Software programs. . . . . yada yada....I'm having a helluva time learning how to use the camera...I've been a still photographer for many years. Was a Pro ACTION photographer for years..... so using a "moving" camera is more bizarre than I predicted.

Its just different and I am just not the type to hack it out...I'm working on the lighting...the setting...etc

I'd like to have a spot "the girls"( dollheads) and I can just set up and go quickly ...so we can show you just about everything and anything you are going to want to know...doesn't that seem cool>?

If you want to put in a few highlights.....there will be a 5 minute vlog for you...

You want to become PLATINUM ? ..... a 5 minute vlog......

cover the grey.....???..............................a 5 minute vlog......

trim your own fringe (bangs).................yada yada

any and everything...we will explore......

am hoping with a "visual" it will sink-in that much better for you

I'm thinking of exploring a few other angles...we shall see....

hang in there.....

I'm trying to figure the camera out as fast as possible

then I have the Editing software to decipher

I'm just not the type to throw somethin' half-assed up there.........

Patience...is a virtue

Knowing "How-To-Color Hair" is NOT NECESSARY in order to pass State Board Of Cosmetology Tests to receive License to practice Hair in California

California's Test is supposed to be the hardest in the country, we have 10 times the applicants of other states, therefore the test is more difficult.

Call Yourself a Professional Home Hair Colorist if you can come up with the answers to a couple more hypothetical formulation examples....lets practice some more.

Many of you seem to understand the first example.Here is another example of LIFTING in the LEVEL System:

Your own natural virgin color hair is a LEVEL 4

You would like to be a "preferred" LEVEL 9 ( I prefer to be a Level 9 is one way of putting it)

What do you come up with?

This is where the BOXED kits do not work ( although they don't tell  you that, they make you think it will.....) and many of you end up with trashed color.  Your hair just did not get light enough and if it did ...it was a hideous shade of orange-y blond, & it sounds like 9 out of 10 of you end up putting brown back on top of it.....For what ends up taking a couple years of growing out to recover from (got that one right didn't I !!?!)

OK. Lets go over it.

• Not all requests can be met EXACTLY as asked, which is not made clear to those of you that cannot afford a high dollar Colorist to tell you the honest truth.  Unfortunately many Stylists with not a lot of experience in color will be just as bad as if you ( with none of this guidance) were doing it...and I have met many clients who understand color better than many stylists I've met over the years. Knowing how to color hair is not necessary to pass the STATE BOARD of Cosmetology Test, which always blew me away. There is just something not right about a Board that oversees the entire world of Hair and doesn't require the new members to learn color. The whole Theory and evolution of hair color is young but its not THAT young. I could write a 100 page book on it just by using this blog.
• Anyway here is the explanation of that problem....

Preferred level of color...................level 9 Blond

Natural level of color (subtract).......Level 4 Brown

Difference..........................................= 5 Levels

 

Preferred level of Color..................Level 9 Blond

Difference ( add)............................... + 5 Levels

Level to Use................................Level 14 Blond

 

There is NO LEVEL 14.... the levels only go to 12.

 See why sometimes hair color leaves you at some strange orange/yellow stage? The Boxed Kits do not tell you this...or warn you of this. I have so many people contact me about this type of problem...it was the main inspiration for me to start this Blog.

This is a common problem that needs to be brought up, so you all will understand. As a busy Colorist, we use many solutions to a problem like this, and offer them all to the client to come to a safe, and sane solution.

5 levels is a lot of lift and normally you will only get that many levels of Lift from Bleach....even high lift blondes only lift 3 maybe 4 levels and for now that is the most powerful "TINT" available.

The solutions?

 come up with a couple of your own....

we will review mine tomorrow......

HAIL Hail-Hail the Gang's all HERE....BLOND WEEK is here

The Mannequins are here....lets get this party started.

Just a pre-warning ..I will be finishing off teaching you all the tricks to putting the ribbons in your hair THIS week ...

if not tomorrow ...

I'm trying to do it via VIDEO!! so with all these PHOTOS on this site and now VIDEO...

PLEASE IF YOU LIKE THE SITE>>> you are going to need more memory for your computer...

that's what photos / video take.

Tuesday.

So go get your supplies.

Lets go blond !

The Newest Designer Drug > The " FLAT IRON "

Bottle the Blow

Trash the ...'-tini's '

Hang-up the Hooka. . .

Today's Tweeners are on a rampage and it's a bit more than 'hair raising' to say the least.

If nothing is done and soon,the last thing they will have left

is not their hair . . .

There is a new drug out there,

that is invading the lives of our daughters, girlfriends, sisters, nieces and for me: clients.

I am starting to consider the Flat Iron a Drug

( clarification : FLAT IRON is the proper term for what many refer to as an electrical hair

"straightener" within the professional world of hair: Flat Iron is the Proper Term)

That is a very big Statement: I do realize.

With the tremendous surge in Flat Iron sales in the past couple years, as is with all new "wonder drugs", we have abusers,addicts and a whole new crop of wild and out-of-control problems.

HAIR LOSS & Irreparable hair damage being the most poignant.

ts gotten to such a degree that I am about to call a couple magazines as I cannot reach the people that need to be reached in the infancy of this blog and I feel it that important to our youth.

I call it FIA...or Flat Iron Addiction.

So lets see who will get this important story out there.

I get a minimum of 12 letters every single day from girls that "cannot figure out why all their hair is breaking off ".. . . The weird part is they do not even put it together. . . the flat ironing and the breakage. But I guess a good addict doesn't know that next pipe hit is bad for them either. Part of my fascination comes from the amount of time they spend doing this one thing. Finally one 17 year old client who's hair went from absolutely demolished and breaking off to silky and thick in the course of only 60 days with 10,000HEADS....I was able to ask and get a decent response,

"how much time were you spending flat ironing?"

"4-5 hours she figured - it IS summer !"

I am not exaggerating here...... I asked her what she does with her time now....

She got a Job.

Please people we need to wake up to this little whirlwind we are all missing.

I see this as an OCD type of a problem . . . but I am not a therapist and that is not my expertise, I am merely here to point out the issue, so we can all start to watch for it.

For my contribution.... I am encouraging all of you to go back to the good ole blow dryer and brush.... and no need to do it every day....a couple days a week will be just fine.
Please, write me if you have concerns at all in this arena...for anyone.

Please know I am not trying to be a nag. Remember my Tag Line,

"I care about your hair" and I do ...truly care.

Yesterday I had one of my old regular clients stop by, her hair was horrendous.Just horrendous. I take this hair thing so serious that it makes me ill.. for the remainder of the day when I see someone in clinic with hair like this. I know its only going to get worse unless she changes a few things and fast. The really sad part? She is 26. 10 years ago this was not happening and especially not at that age.

I had to put her on the most strictest of programs and she was upset...and now I know why I haven't seen her in a while. I am merely trying to help and prevent all of you from having to go through what I see is going to be a HUGE problem very very soon.

The mission of my 3 Blogs is to share and relay the information of one of the top Hair Experts in the country with the public in 2 main areas. My goal is to reach most of America and share with them the knowledge of how to color their hair . . .just the same as if they were "baking a cake". There has never been any guidance or release of knowledge or book guiding women of America on how to care for the color of their hair. Not everyone has access to $250. highlights and I propose to change that and make thorough, accurate hair color advice and education available to those who want to learn.

Hair Color Kits Destroy hair, there is no way they can put in one box kit the proper ingredients. Hair Color is a science and chemistry just like cooking is. It is no harder than cooking,...it just has never been taught or a book written and produced for the women and men of America. If one Hair color book was written with the basic rules and laws included there would be thousands of women able to color their hair at home - correctly. (There are plenty of women that will still want to have a Colorist do it for them and plenty of tricks only they can do... just like a master Chef.)

But the 'basics of hair coloring just like "cooking" should be made available to the general public of America.

My last goal with the blogs will be to attempt to solve, slow down or even stop all the Hair loss I see running rampant in this country. I've always seen it in men....but never this young and this pronounced. The amount of women popping up with it now...would blow every single person reading this away. I see it everyday and still can not and WILL NOT get "used to it"..especially when I know I can make a difference.

Killer Chemist

Back to the Good Ole Days of Blow Drying ! . Attention FIA (Flat Iron Abusers)

We are going to take a small DETOUR for a Post here and layout one of the most neglected yet important 10 Steps you've paid attention to in a long time.

Blow Drying.

I am starting to consider the Flat Iron a Drug. ( clarification...FLAT IRON is the proper term for what many refer to as "straighteners"...within the professional world of hair: Flat Iron is the Proper Term)

That's a big statement I know.

With the tremendous surge in Flat Iron Sales in the past couple years, as is with all new "wonder drugs" , we have abusers and addicts and a whole new crop of wild and out-of-control problems. HAIR LOSS being the most poignant. Its gotten to such a degree that I am about to call a couple magazines as I cannot reach the people that need to be reached in the infancy of this blog and I feel it that important to our youth.

So lets see who will get this important story out there. For my contribution.... I am encouraging all of you to go back to the good ole blow dryer and brush.... and no need to do it every day....a couple days a week will be just fine.

Please, write me if you have concerns at all in this arena...for anyone . . . Please know I am not trying to be a nag.

Promise.

I had an old client pop in yesterday, 26 years old and her hair..... it was horrendous. I am just very conerned about your hair and especially being as she IS ONLY 26....I had to put her on the most strictest of programs and she was upset...and now I know why I haven't seen her in a while. I am merely trying to help and prevent all of you from having to go through what I see is going to be a HUGE problem very very soon.

s always...I CARE ABOUT YOUR HAIR. period.

Top 10 ways to keep blow dried hair looking shiny and healthy

10.) The finish is as important as the drying time. Seal the hair by turning the dryer on ‘cool’. Never leave the hair warm – it won’t last 10 minutes that way.

9.) If you invest in a great cut, the time you spend with the blow dryer in hand will not only be less, it will be more rewarding and the end will result will make you like a pro. Try asking for a blow dry lesson to be included with the price of the cut.

8.) When using a finishing product to hold your style – spray it on the brush first. This makes sure the hair won’t be over loaded and lets the hair shine through.

7.) Do not use a conditioner after your shampoo, that step was manufactured by the shampoo companies. The proper routine? Shampoo and only if needed….a spray leave-in detangler. A daily conditioner just weighs hair down and produces product build-up. Keep product use light, no more than 2 at every given blow dry, 1 is even better.

6.) Hair needs to be 70% dry for blow dry to begin. Shake out excess water after shower, rough dry until 2/3 of water is out. Over using a hair dryer can rob the hair of moisture, leaving hair dry & brittle.

5.) “Heat” remains the single #1 enemy to the health of hair, most don’t realize this. Blow drying ONLY until the hair is dry, alternating between hot and cool temperatures as you go through each section remains important for the health of the hair.

4.) Choose your brushes carefully, the longer the hair the bigger the brush. Axe the heat retaining brushes (metal) they add to the frizz and dryness. Boar Bristle brushes are the best, there is a reasonably priced line of brushes that will make your life easy called Marilyn,

http://www.themarilynbrush.com .

3.) If you’re not using a silicone serum to coat the hair you will contribute to the frizz factor, there are a million and one out there but you must read the label…if it has alcohol in the formula you are defeating the purpose. Silicone Serums range from light to heavy and from the John Freida line at Drug stores all the way to my favorite: Oscar Blandi’s Jasmine Oil Serum at Sephora. Blandi has combined the two; adding silicone to a carrier oil for the perfect combination.

2.) The hair dryer itself makes a real difference especially with the new IONIC and Tourmaline models on the market. IONIC utilizes ceramic technology, which will leave your hair healthy, silky with natural shine and manageability. Plus super fast drying time, the higher price tag is because they really do, work. Save your $$, ask for a birthday gift, watch for sales. It will last a couple years and the time it will cut off of your blow dry time and the shine in the finish makes it all worth while .

1.) The most important tip for blow drying? Sectioning the hair. Seem silly? Take a couple extra minutes to section hair into at least 4 sections if not 6. This will help in avoiding bumps and ridges in the end finish. Begin with the back section first, get it out of the way so you don’t get tired & give up before its done, remember the ‘back’ of your hair is what more people see than any other.

Killer bonus trick:

They have what I call “rearview” mirrors for the bathroom, Bed Bath and Beyond refers to them as a wall mount swivel mirror, they run from $29. to $99. Mount one on your bathroom wall; it will afford you the freedom of blow drying the back of your hair while also being able to look at what you are doing! It helps in the final outcome and you will find the mirror has many other uses as well (magnification mirror for eyebrow plucking, make-up application for poor sight, added bonus) .

1st COLOR FORMULATION - explanation

you are a level 4 brown..... and want to be a level 7....blond.
The difference between the level you are at... and the level you want hypothetically be is 3 levels.....
if you use a level 7 color will you achieve the desired result?

NO NO NO! You must use a color that accounts for the difference between your natural level and the level you want to be...
A level 10 color is the correct choice....however using as level 10 which contains only pale yellow dyes, will not keep the orange in a level 7 from showing through. I would use a Level 10 Neutral/Ash/Matt.....in the line I use I have dozens of tones.....and that's why i like it.. I would mix equal parts of 10N with 10M with 10 A.... and that brassiness would be eliminated. If needed it can be toned with a semi perm ASH BROWN....which will also
kill that brassiness.

Please take a look at FIGURE 2.4....this chart should be printed out -- keep it next to where ever you are keeping your color. Its a very handy little chart...I had to memorize all of this from trial and error it was not nearly this organized....back in the day!!

Lucky You......

Lots of you are writing me and I am very pleased with how well some of you are absorbing the material......and asking me "proper" questions.

I guess this was a good idea.

Some are quoting the LEVELS like an old Pro - very refreshing to hear....know that it inspires me and moves me that you are interested enough to try to learn this - - - its not easy -- I take that back.....it IS EASY; its just very 'foreign' to most......and has never been done out in "public" before.

so Thank you...

I hope to keep going, get better and for sure > more organized.

KC

Our First Test Case - Hair Color Example Case

OK here we go Jo..............See this hot ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ photo up there ? ? ? ? That is RIBBONS of lights.... I just call them ribbons, my clients all have ribbons...its a very common term here in weirdo california. . . . . how nice are they? cool, huh? know why? The color on this girl is our goal FOR YOU, and it isn't hard. Why is this such a great idea for your hair????

~No Regrowth ~ Contrast is dynamic ~Cheap

~Do it Yourself ~ Lasts a long-long-long time!

NOTHING LOOKS BETTER...............NOTHING.......its my fav hair technique. I'm giving to you, when the 'girls' show up...

I've come up with a new way to truly-honestly-completely display to you how to do the ribbon lights around the face that I can't wait to show you. What we want to learn is how to put a cool dozen blond ribbon lights around the face. We want them light enough...not too light....We want them scattered not one after another tightly knit...We want them Blonde not YELLOW not ORANGE..... just a beautiful light sunkissed blond.

BUT...........in order for there not be any questions I have come up with a solution before the problem arises...I ordered a few human hair mannequins..I get them from back east....I tried it on a human model........it didn't work.

Its a long stupid story, we're going with mannequins. This will rock I promise. Any day now....because I can't wait to do these with and for you. Its a breeze. Get your supplies. Be ready to go when I get the "girls"... I've given you the list. I went to my local Sally's - pretended I was you.......and bought every single thing you need to accomplish the Ribbon Lights. You can get it all for $20. Foils, comb, tint brush, tint bowl, yada yada, peroxide and bleach. Now, don't ditto me....as I bought a small yahoo of bleach....just to see if I could get out of there for under the $20 I was hoping to. My suggestion ? go in on it with a friend...2 reasons: buy a tub o' bleach...share the equipment...and do each others hair. But, its not necessary. Not the way we are doing it....it is totally going to be a self sufficient - do-it-yourself whup-de-do. The one precursor here is this......IF you have never EVER colored your hair before....and have completely VIRGIN hair... AND It is a LEVEL 7,8 or 9... you can accomplish those Ribbons with a Blond highlift and/or a blond tint, which is (yes) not as damaging to the hair. BUT....BUT think about this.... you are putting 12 dinky little foils in your hair.... that small amount of hair color will not do enough damage to even blink at, I wouldn't bother. But if you really want to give it a go. Go ahead and purchase a tube of LEVEL 12 HIGHLIFT ASH...( why Ash? use your color wheel.... what color is ash? Ash=Green/Blue tones...... What color is Green opposite from on the color wheel? That's how it works.....you want to SQUASH a color in your hair color? Go across from it on the color wheel. I will throw a color wheel on the page for you to gander at. Yellow is a common mistake in hair color especially blondes, if you your hair is pulling Yellow and want to get rid of it......where do you go? Violets?

Right? Think of some of those violet rinses and shampoos you see for the Gray hair's.... see why? Gray hair has a strong tendency to pull lots of YELLOW....its your Grandma's biggest problem in life. "Yellowish - Gray hair" Lavender conditioner knocks it into next year!

Back to you....why would you think buying an ASH High Lift Blond would be my first choice for you without even knowing your hair color? (I didn't ask).... ash toned high-lift blond 'counteracts' any REDs/ORANGE in the blond. If you're Hispanic,Asian, pretty much any ethnic base....you have tons of red/orange in your hair.....fighting it is the hardest job.

Most of people have brown or black hair, very few people have light hair.As a busy Colorist one reaches for ASH colors across the board more than any other tone. Which probably seems odd to you, I watch new Colorists they think "I want rich warm golden blond - I never want to use ash blonds....green?blues? yuk!

What you are doing is "countering" the offensive colors....and although you are not using in that one little dumb tube of Color something that says" warm golden blond " you want a warm blond you do not want an Orange blond...... I promise you...... and that is what you are creating by using the ASH blond. if you can just start absorbing this a "little" bit...you are on your way to understanding the PRO way of COLORING Hair.

HERE IS YOUR FIRST TEST CASE>

Lets see how you do.

The color you PREFER to be is: Level 7

Your hair's NATURAL color is: Level 4.

( PRINT the chart out and put it on your fridge so it gets emblazoned on your brain)

Did you figure it out?

Now come on, I have people emailing me all the time and wanting the answers to their individual hair color questions, which I love & adore to do DO NOT get me wrong...BUT wouldn't you feel better about yourself if you could figure it out yourself?Its a teeny bit of math and a dash of common sense. Up till now no one has given the rules out -- so it seemed like some big mystery.

Guess what? It isn't ! I hope to bust that open, here and soon.

OK. let me explain it.

Subtract the natural color from the Level you want to be ( or your friend, client or dog!)

Add the difference to the preferred color Level .This will give you the proper color Level to use to achieve the desired results.

Add the difference to the preferred Color Level. This will give you the proper color level to use to achieve the desired results.

Preferred level of Color......................... Level 7 Blond

Natural Level of Color(subtract)........... (-) Level 4 Brown

Difference = 3 LEVELS

Preferred level of Color......................... Level 7 Blond

Difference (add)..................................... + 3 Levels

Level to Use.................................... = Level 10 Blond

The level of Color is a Level 10 blond

(with a blue base)or the orange{remaining pigment} will show through.

( Refer to Fig. 2.2 - tomorrows post + the thorough explanation) Think about it. Go back Review. Is this answer right?

Bits & Pieces : Learn To Formulate Hair Color

Here are bits and pieces to help with Tuesday's Post and your first HAIR COLOR FORMULATION problem

Try the first Formulation quiz

You are a Level 4

and you desitre to be a Level 7

DL Hair - simply for fun

On Your Mark Get Set Color ! Begin Hair Color Formulating

Know why this is a good tool?

Once you realize what you have to consider to color your hair (correctly) it will prevent you from making mistakes (I hope).

Begin with answers to these questions:

1. What Level of color ARE YOU ? http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2007/07/today.html


2. What Level of color do you DESIRE to be? http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2007/07/today.html


3. What TONE or color do you want . . . Lordie,. . . . I forgot Tones ???! I am soooo sorry. This is so hard - every single company has different tones....but they are important. Like do you want an ASH Brown or a RED Brown > those are tones and are completely opposite colors and are very important.OK, I'll have to take one last hiccup and spend one full post on TONES /SHADES, that is the "key" to have a Chocolate Brown versus a Caramel Brown,it probably doesn't sound that different. It is. I swear. We've come this far, we must finish the race...correctly. What an Idiot. Well, now you know me...Space Case UNLIMITED. I'm sorry. Lets finish this.


4. Do you need a base ( first 1 inch of hair) Are you dealing with Grey hair (at all) how much?


5. Fine, medium or coarse hair?


6. What's the previous damage...?
7. The single most important question . . . . What type of artificial hair color do you have on your hair already? What was it and when ? Be completely honest about this answer please.
   

OK...get the answers to these down. If you aren't coloring your hair now, then make-up something you want to try in the future. Color the neighbors hair. Just play around, get familiar with 'Levels'. Be able to answer the questions easily. Tomorrow I'll zip over tones and shades. . . . so we will be complete...sort of! Thank you for hanging in there.

For those of you serious about learning and practicing home HAIR COLORING The Pro way... You will want to pick a line or two of color that you will use. There is a couple ways to go... I have been scoping out what you are able to purchase without a cosmetology license...its a whole different world. I have put the public lines of hair color thru a number of tests and I cannot find one that I would recommend - therefore I have made available to you the professional lines of hair color that will knock your socks off. Just send the store an email with ORDER in the Subject and I will get back to you Killerstrands@gmail.com.

The idea is to get AWAY from using a kit that only has ONE Volume of developer in the box. You need much more leeway in deciding which Volume of developer to use on your hair.

If a

• - - Red head
  
• - - a Blonde and a
  
• - - African American (black hair)
  

all go into a store to purchase a box of color to become a LEVEL 6 chocolate brunette - those boxed kits will lead you to believe that all 3 of you can purchase the same box to get that color. I hope you can see - simply from common sense that would not be true.
As a Top Colorist in LA I want you to know if everyone in those 3 groups - purchases that box of Color to become a Level 6 chocolate Brown.... NONE OF THEM will get the right result. Did you notice which category I left out?
Brunettes.
That is the only group that I could guess "might" get good results.

It has to do with which VOLUME of developer is IN that box.... and all the variables I have reviewed and will review with you - - of your hair . Its simple insane to think you can get the proper answers in 1 tiny box without considering all the variables to make a correct decision.

Top 10 Tricks to Changing Hair Color Frequently

Top 10 Tricks to Changing Hair Color

Often & Safely...Often & Safely

• Put the "Health" of your hair number #1


• NEVER - EVER use a Boxed Hair Color Kit again


• Apply "After-Color" treatment for pH Level, following every single color service


• Follow directions on individual hair manufacturers color tubes-precisely-they're all different. Purchase the best hair color brand you can afford, if you can afford it..acquire Professional Color like: Euro-Wella, Framesi, Schwartzkopf, E-bay has everything, it makes a huge difference...huge.


• Deep (overnight) condition once/week every week for the rest of your life


• Use SchwarzKopf's Modulat ; now its called PHANTOM Color Corrector as one & only Color Remover that not only works, but does not damage hair when finished, which allows the changing to continue. This is a huge secret I have let out of the bag, use it!


• Never change entire hair color more than once in 30 days.( Pro's can do it, you cannot- if there is some unforseen reason this comes up - you must contact me - I will be here to help )


• Plan Ahead: if dark and going blond, begin the 'shampoo train' (shampooing 4-5-6 times:use lousy shampoo: in one evening: using start/stop method)-remember shampoo is most gentle method for removing hair color>yes it removes 'permanent')


• When using Lighteners (bleach) use Oil Bleach absolutely as often as possible (changing more frequently & safely > will be your reward!)


• Plan Ahead (yes, i know its twice) doing radical hair color changes can be fun and possible if you just remember to keep in mind that you have to do something next, which is what many people forget, including hair stylists. Treat your hair kindly, if you do, it will reward you by letting you change the colors as often, as wild or as timid as you want.

I WILL NEVER-EVER USE BOXED HAIR COLOR KITS

I WILL NEVER -EVER USE BOXED HAIR COLOR KITS

I WILL NEVER -EVER USE BOXED HAIR COLOR KITS

I WILL LEARN HOW TO USE THE LEVEL SYSTEM

I WILL LEARN HOW TO USE THE LEVEL SYSTEM

I WILL LEARN HOW TO USE THE LEVEL SYSTEM

any answer I need, i can ask the killer chemist - ANY>WHAT-SO-EVER

any answer I need, I can ask the killer chemist - ANY >WHAT-SO-EVER

any answer I need I can ask the killer chemist - ANY > WHAT-SO-EVER

I encourage "comments" so everyone can learn... if you're a lurker ...

...don't feel comfortable...

...my private email: Killerstrands@gmail.com

Alkali, Hydrogen Peroxide and Mohawks

THE EFFECTS OF ALKALI And HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

Hydrogen peroxide alone will not lighten hair easily; it alone is not a decolorizer because of its acidic pH level. It must be combined with an alkaline source to produce a chemical reaction with the color dye and the pigment in the hair strands.

The most common alkaline agent used in haircoloring products is ammonia.

In addition to maintaining stability of the dye , ammonia swells the hair strand, which helps the dye molecule penetrate the cuticle and cortex layers. Ammonia also acts as a catalyst to activate hydrogen peroxide, which helps the dye molecules to couple and form.

Hydrogen peroxide in combination with ammonia will break some of the internal disulfide bonds found in the cortex of the hair.

This IS IMPORTANT:

Disulfide bonds are responsible for hair's stability and strength.

In a typical haircolor process, approximately 10% of existing disulfide bonds are destroyed. In a highlift color or bleaching, 15 — 20% may be permanently broken. The destruction of disulfide bonds leads to the production of a new molecule called cysteic acid. Although this is an inevitable side effect, an appropriate protein/moisture balance can be achieved through the Deep OVERNIGHT Conditioning Treatments I preach about all the time.

I am a true believever that overnight DEEP Conditioning can solve/repair the disulfide bond breaking that occurs when lightening hair. I hope this helps you see now, why I say "lightening the hair" weakens the hair strands....while "same Level or darker" hair color "strengthens" the strands.Read the paragraphs over and over a couple times... it will sink in promise.

• If you understand how the hair gets damaged then it helps prevent you from damaging it, continuously.
• It's important to understand the individual components of haircoloring products and their primary functions.

Essentially, most haircolor requires dye and developer to produce a result.

DYES
There are two general categories of dyes: oxidative and direct dyes. Oxidative dyes are extremely small colorless molecules that penetrate through the cuticle and into the cortex with the aid of an alkaline substance such as ammonia. Direct dyes are pre-colored molecules that coat the surface of the hair and do not require a reaction with hydrogen peroxide.

DEVELOPER (HYDROGEN PEROXIDE)
In order for oxidative dyes to form colored dye molecules, oxidation must take place. Oxidation is the chemical process of a haircolor dye reacting with a developer to form visible color. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is one of the most predominant oxidants used to develop color.

Hydrogen peroxide can be considered 'super-oxygenated' water, and is categorized by volume — most often 10, 20, 30, and 40. "Volume" refers to the 'volume' of oxygen gas contained in one 'volume' of hydrogen peroxide. It is a measure of concentration.

Each volume corresponds with a percentage level as follows:

Developer (Hydrogen Peroxide)

Volume Percentage of H202 Lifting Ability

10 Volume or 3% Deposits only

20 Volume or 6% Lifts Up to 1 level

30 Volume or 9% Lifts Up to 2-3 levels

40 Volume or 12% Lifts Up to 3-4 levels ......................Memorize these - its easy



Lower volumes of developer are used for minimal lift and staining techniques. Higher volumes are used when increased lifting of the natural pigment is desired.

Hydrogen peroxide has a dual purpose in the haircoloring process. First, it reacts with the melanin, breaking down the natural pigment and lightening the hair. This is what is referred to as 'lift'. Second, hydrogen peroxide develops oxidative dye molecules creating 'deposit' into the protein structure of the hair.

Coming Into The Home Stretch of Home Hair Color

Into the home stretch on the Home hair coloring series…
..just a couple small categories to brush over.
What I’ve done is take tons of info and try my hardest to condense so once into specific cases, for ex: if you are a Level 4 and you want to be a level 7 what is the procedure, I will be able to refer to many referenced points in hopes of clarifying . I want everyone out there to have the tools & knowledge to "formulate your own hair color" as easy as you would bake a cake.
Know what?...that is basically what it is!


Lately there are many rifts going around the hair color industry aimed at the consumer about hair color “ammonia” content. There is one line of color proclaiming they are the new wonder color because they do not use ammonia in their line of hair color. Yes, of course...there are people allergic to ammonia, but there are people allergic to the sun…does that mean we should get rid of it? Try not to prescribed to blanket statements like that, they are a marketing tool to sell- period.
The line of color I am referring to is made by the “CHI” company…sound familiar? Yep the - Flat Iron -dash- BioSilk -dash- everything –under-the-sun company from Texas. What consumer knows what ammonia does or does not do in hair color or hair, most consumers think of ammonia as something in window cleaner. Ammonia opens the cuticle on a hair strand which enables the color to go INTO the strand. That is what one needs in trying to change hair color, why wouldn’t you want it? If you don’t want certain things that chemicals do then one should just eliminate the entire process -- period. Don’t spend time trying to wiggle around them and end up doing the complete wrong thing to your hair. That’s what happens all the time, I run into it constantly.

CHI should not be making Hair Color or Flat Irons….I firmly believe in sticking to what you are good at. After BIO Silk they tried to go into shampoo’s conditioners, and failed at them…they sure do not learn. 3 of the best hair color manufacturers in the world are WELLA , FRAMESI, & RENBOW. What else do these companies make? NOTHING. Hair Color and everything around & for hair color. They come up with new color and new technologies for existing hair colors as a good company should – all facets of business should operate that way.



CHEMISTRY AND EFFECTS OF BLEACHING THE HAIR

Oxidation in the decolorizing process means the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline product such as bleach. Once activated, the decolorizing mixture changes melanosome structure and lightens the color of the hair. It does this by breaking the melanin into tiny fragments which are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree as before. The melanin does not immediately lose its color when oxidized. The hair goes through relatively predictable color changes as the pigment disperses and lightens the hair to a new level. The following table lists each level of hair color with its corresponding undertone, as well as shades that are achievable at each level.

Chemistry and Effect of Bleaching the Hair

Undertone
Level
Achievable Shades

Pale Yellow
10
platinum blonde silver ash blonde ultra pale pastel blonde

Yellow
9
strawberry blonde beige blonde tan blonde taupe blonde

Yellow/Orange
8
honey blonde light copper blonde dark strawberry blonde dark beige blonde

Orange/YellowOrange
7/6
copper redfire red dark blonde

Red/OrangeRed
5 /4
mahogany burgundy

There are no established times for decolorizing the hair to any given level. Processing time always varies, depending on the strength of the decolorizing mixture, use of heat, as well as texture, condition, porosity, type and density of natural pigmentation. The best way to determine processing time is to perform a strand test and to follow manufacturer's directions.

TYPES OF DECOLORIZERS

There are three general classifications of decolorizers used in the salon: oil, creme, and powder. Each performs a specific function, and has unique characteristics.

OIL DECOLORIZERS

These are frequently used for on-scalp applications when a mild lightening action is desired. Oil decolorizers are part of a 3-component system including powder activator(s) and hydrogen peroxide developer. Oil decolorizers have a pH of approximately 10.

CREME DECOLORIZERS Creme decolorizers also include developers and may also include powder activator(s). They are formulated to stay moist during processing in a no-drip consistency. They are popular for their versatile application techniques and are used in both on and off-scalp methods.

POWDER DECOLORIZERS Powder decolorizers are often selected when lighter blonde results are desired on darker natural hair colors. Most powder decolorizers are for off-scalp techniques, although some do provide the flexibility for on-scalp applications. The pH of powder decolorizers is approximately 10.5.

There are two basic classifications:
1. On-scalp: Used on-scalp for double processing and off-scalp in highlighting and creative color techniques.
2. Off-scalp: This type of bleach is usually stronger and faster-acting than on-scalp bleaches due to the higher pH and stronger peroxide activity.

The Hairy Little Things

There are some little things that in preparation I may have skipped over that I feel must, at least, be mentioned.

I know, as I am sure you do ( by now) that writing is not my thing.
I've been reading a book, but with the 3 blogs to stay up on I barely have time to actually "learn", either that or I am too damn old!

I have just found a website that does a wonderful job of organizing many of the basics I have skimmed over in this series and feel you could benefit greatly from . In my attempt to be as brief as possible, I fear I have left out small nuggets of pertinent information. Now The deal is {as is with anyone that attempts to teach hair color} they do not understand hair color "Formulation" so there needs to be a Red Flag when getting to the part of actually coloring your hair.
Color Formulation is the key to beautiful hair color.

This site recommends using "Kits" which is the absolute 100% wrong thing to use.
Hair Color Kits should be Banned - Burned and Bombed, they are job security for hair stylists and in no way can work properly except on a tiny % of the popluation.

It makes me wonder who is actually backing someone that makes such an idiotic statement. If they truly knew their stuff they would not tell anyone to use boxed hair color kits, chemically / theoretically and logically they make absolutely no sense. So as long as you can remember that when reading the summaries, you will be OK.
The reason I feel it worth it to recommend? They have listed and named off almost all the...little... preliminary preparations I can think of. So read everything leading up to "coloring the hair". If you are one of the daily readers of this Blog then you are dedicated to learning about the professional way to color your hair. Coloring your hair like the top Colorists in the country, something myself and a few of my associates said we would write about in another 20 years . . . not now. So absorb it and ask any questions you want /need to.

here is that website: http://www.soyouwanna.com/site/syws/dyehair/dyehairfull.html

Bleach For The Stars

Both - were bleached to a pale yellow stage

> a Soft Blue and a Vivid Blue semi permanent color - put on top - for 30 minutes

Life Is A Bleach ! Enjoying Blonds and Experiencing Lighteners

This is how you play with TONERS, my passion. The 3 gentlemen bleached to pale yellow... toned by "muting" down vivid CRAZY COLORS. Put a dollop of either mousse or hair conditioner in a bowl....pour in a little of a bright color at a time... any color PLUS the WHITE of mousse or conditioners makes for Easter Egg pastels..

All dark haired women lighten to a pale yellow level and toned.

Beige Toner

Platinum Toner

I added quite a bit to yesterdays post... be sure to review it. At this point I feel its necessary to let you see what bleach and what lighteners can do.There is a tremendous amount of animosity to the word "bleach" out there in the non-professional hair world.When I try to remember back before I knew all of this, I am sure I had the same feelings .

"Bleach" makes you think of that hideous smelling liquid you throw in with clothing + the washing machine... or the "bleach" in many of today's Cleaners...which is strong and chokes you if your sensitive in the least.

Try to dump that tendency to relate hair bleach to clothing bleach....they are so totally different...... do you know that when I hear I will be doing a bleaching for the day ( they just don't happen as often as I wish - and never have) . . . that one piece of news will turn my whole day into a joyful...skip to my Lou day . . I am on top of the world...because I know that I will be soon in my element....Turning hair from one color to the opposite is very satisfying...to ALL COLORISTS...because it is a difficult procedure and to master it and nail it every time is fulfilling and fun.

So when I hear the hesitation in the publics' voice about hair bleaching and lightening.....just know that when it is done correctly you too can look like Gwen Stefani for years & years AND YEARS . . .once you master the art of the HOME HAIR COLORIST SERIES by the killer chemist.

Learn to LOVE LIGHTENING

LOVE THE REACH FOR BLEACH

Reachin for Bleachin'

How light is "white"
when bleaching the hair the only answer is "WHITE"

Lighteners / Decolorizing

Lighteners are the chemical compounds that lighten hair by decolorizing the natural hair pigment. Just like color in the tubes. As soon as the lightener formula (powder or liquid) is mixed with the hydrogen peroxide, it begins to release oxygen. This process is known as oxidation, occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

Hair lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with permanent hair color , and are called BLEACH.

The lightest color one can achieve using hair color is with the type of color called HIGH LIFT BLONDING. Every line has their own version of HIGH LIFT blonde tones that ‘claim' to lift 4-5 Levels by using this tube of color plus a double dose of 40 Volume Developer.

...So there are 2 ways of going very blonde.....

#1) High lift Blond ( which you will NOT find in a HAIR COLOR KIT) these must be purchased as a tube of color and the developer SEPARATELY.

or

#2) Bleach or Lightener : In Powder, Creme, Liquid or Oil form.

As a seasoned colorist I have learned that very few of them actually do lift that much color, especially when you are dealing with the entire head or large sections of hair.. When doing something small like highlights most likely you can get the 4 -5 levels of lift (lightening) as you are using foils ( which add HEAT > Heat helps color work faster - and more intensely - altho it is tougher on the condition of the hair) …it all depends on the texture and porosity as well ...just like in all lightening procedures.

THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS

The hair goes through different stages of color as it lightens as you can see in FIGURE 16-19. The amount of change depends on :

· how much pigment the hair has
· the strength of the lightening product
· the length of time it was processed

During the process of decolorizing ( Bleaching), natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages FIGURE 16-20. The most common problem? would be when you see yellow hair..which would mean what? Check the stages....

As the hair is lightened....it works its way up the chart... if it stops at "gold"level 7 or even "yellow/gold"level 8...

it means the bleach has not been left on long enough....

Most people do not understand that.

Be very careful . . I am not promoting everyone going out and leaving bleach on for hours and hours...or putting it on 2-3 times - like I do.

It takes constant monitoring...it needs to be washed off the minute it hits level 9 or 10 if you can.

But it can move from one level to another WITHIN 60 seconds !!

Are you READY for that?

TO MOVE THAT QUICKLY?

If not ....................DO NOT TRY IT.

Not all hair will go through all 10 degrees of decolorization. Each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result.

The hair is never safely lifted past the ‘pale yellow stage’ to ‘white’ with lightener. Going that light with bleach even oil bleach causes excessive damage to the hair strands. One must be a seasoned hair colorist when going into the light blond range....we know how far we can go and be safe...and its nothing you can really 'teach'...... its simply experience!

10,000HEADS was the number I was at about 2 years ago !

I can tell by clearing the color off of a strand of hair EXACTLY what stage its at, so that prevents me from leaving the color on too long.Now the problem with most bleaching or lightenings you see done at home? They only bleach the hair once.

Big shot Colorist's trick?

> use OIL BLEACH - Redkens' Levitation is the best....Wella's Wellite will do...

> apply it twice . . . . sometimes 3 times - yep . . .in the same day -- the trick is...in knowing when to stop.

> OIL Bleach continues to work for 3 hours. Each hour the speed at which it works slows down. Therefore, the first hour the bleach is jamming & working quickly, then depending on costs - timing - etc...is how we determine if we are going to wash it out and reapply a new fresh batch or leave it in and let the speed diminish.

Sometimes that will be the best answer.

MY usual protocol : I apply Levitation Oil bleach and 30 volume > 1 inch FROM ROOTS and thru ends.... (apply to roots as very last step).. for 1 hour.

RINSE

Reapply - new batch of oil bleach on ends and in the last 1/2 hour apply to roots.

Being very careful to use very small sections to apply the product.

Many many moons ago (16 years ago) when I did my very first RADical hair color ( I still have the photos).I took an ASIAN gal (PITCH BLACK hair) gave her a Halo around her face of 1 inch -- surrounding her hairline of WHITE hair.... my mentor wanted me to learn how to get to "white" on the most difficult of hair. Asian hair is the toughest to work on because of its 'texture' (its coarse) and its porosity ( it has none)...But, when you have completed either colour or a dynamic cut on it, it also looks better than any other hair.

So its worth the effort -- if you think that way!

It took from 7:00 AM in the morning to 7:00 at night. But it was a pure snow white HALO with JET black Base that I actually made a BLUE-BLACK so the most extreme contrast possible.

That was the day I knew I wanted to master the art of HAIR COLOUR.... and I never looked back.

It was a very sweet ride and I can honestly and proudly say. . . . I can do do ANYTHING in the art of hair color...anything and everything.

Even ended up making up some procedures like "tattooing" hair....

I would bleach white the hair and then paint a Tattoo on the back of the head at the base

Back in the day I was not so into computers... so i didn't take photos of all my crazy work when i should have I knew I could always re-do it...never thinking this would happen...of course...

as a matter of fact computers are the opposite of hair color....so I understand why many of the TOP colorists are not ONLINE, I would have never done this . . .

had I not gotten sick.

here is one guy I had some snap shots of

- lousy photos -

-but you get the idea . . . . He's hispanic so black hair again...

see what color a bleach should be?

WHITE!

He wanted flames to match the flames he had a car painter > paint on his jacket....

for PROM at MALIBU HIGH - -

- - of course!

It kicked ass