Wednesday, June 30, 2010

10,000 Heads, 20,000 People and a Blog - - Changed My Life Forever

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Don’t ever think Hair is a “little” thing, I found a computer and a comb could change my outlook on the world

The beginning. . . .
About 9 years ago, I made a turn off the path I was on working in a extremely busy Salon, with an overload book of clients, there was just not enough of 'me' to go around. The turn initially was not taken voluntarily ...I came down with a rare bone disease pushing me into a year worth of treatments, I wouldn't wish on anyone. In the course of that year, I too lost 1/2 my hair, 1/2 ,my weight and 1/2 of my mind!  To me this major event in my life “meant something”…. it was driving me towards becoming an expert on female hair thinning and loss. This issue of female pattern Hair Loss (FPHL) was becoming a way too common occurrence in the Salon . . 18 – 20 – 36 year olds were all coming to me with the problem. That was petrifying to me at the time.

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Which was a revelation to me that I was supposed to be working on the [ I became driven to solving the subject of women's hair loss. ("womens hair loss" is entirely different, than men's).
There is plenty of research and clinical trials concentrating on the male world of hair loss, very little was being done to help women. I knew from my own clientele the problem was bad and getting worse. That is when I began my journey into Cosmetic Chemistry and Trichology. I spent the next 2 years in classes, studying and apprenticing under one of the top cosmetic chemists in the country. That was the start of my goal in solving the problem of temporary hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) in women. I wanted to understand what every single ingredient was, what its chemical make-up is and how it works on the body.

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The idea of chemistry frightened me in high school but when I realized that cosmetic chemistry was simply organic chemistry ... I was disappointed in myself for not taking it, a way back when.
10,000HEADS started with 20 steps. Over time I added, refined, subtracted, altered and finally... perfected... the individual steps. With the final critical discovery: the protocol works its best {with the highest success rate} when it is worked synergistically. In other words; each step depends on another, in order for all to work to their potential. Skipping steps is not allowed by anyone committing to the protocol, the first 90 days. It depends where your results are at, that 90 day test period, as to what you can let up on and what you can't, so it is not a lifetime of commitments. There is an end!

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Fully aware that everyone wants a 'quick-fix' pill to solve this problem, I'm here to tell you...that simply does not exist in todays world. All the hair loss kits and pills and lotions and potions that you see are out there PLAIN and simply: DO NOT WORK. If they did, they would be approved by the FDA ( Federal Drug Administration) and the news would be all over the papers, news and TV.

I promise you, solving hairloss and obesity are 2 of the top researched areas in every Lab of both the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industries. Solving hair loss is more important than solving cancer. Many cancer patients die, ending the need for their product, if they could get America a drug,cream or pill that solved hair loss they potentially would be a client for 50 years. Those industries are big business and any good business looks at the "bottom line" and profits. 86083253

I have absolutely no intention of badmouthing companies for their efforts to solve the female hairLOSS4 (hair loss, hair thinning, hair fall & hair damage) that is not my goal here. The more people that work on it, the higher percentage rate we have in solving the problem. My concern is with the false advertising, its just not fair to the consumer . . they simply have not cured anything. I have heard the same from hundreds of clients, but more importantly I have tested all the weird products myself, in my own personal quest to improve my hair. Hey, I am no different than anyone I want the quick fix pill as well. 200544402-004

There are hundreds of companies that exist on a one time sale of a product to a consumer..in other words - no repeat business. I experienced this at a Salon I worked in, the owners daughter was the single worst hair stylist I had ever seen touch a head of hair. She would burn hair, send clients out crying, colour hair gold when it was supposed to be red.

It just blew me away.

Yet, she had been working there for 3 years prior to me coming and still works there today.

Why?

Why, is what I asked over and over and over.

It took a full year to figure out.

She did only "one-time clients" they never came back for repeat business. The following appointment was either with someone else or they never stepped in the Salon again, they ran for the hills!

79339184Same theory for hair loss products on the market. These companies survive on the millions of 'one time buyers' out there. The 10,000HEADS Protocol was developed when everything else failed. Its not easy, it takes commitment BUT > it has a 85-90% success rate (on androgenetic alopecia or temporary hair loss). That is a fairly high number, to most.

Over July I hope to review some of the additions + changes, deductions  etc… having to do with 10,000 HEADS. Please excuse the construction as we have a new local web girl (Jessi  - -  thanx Jess!)  who is sprucing up the BLog a little. .  and I hope to keep her with Killerstrands to keep all 4 of the sites a little more updated..

 Copy of killercutscolors714

The Comments Feature for this BLOG (in the last couple months) has been 50 SPAM comments to 1 legitimate comment…So for now, if you have any comments…. please : join the Google Group to ask them of us… it just became a huge draw to spammers they tell me because of the popularity of it.

ALSO . . .many of you will be happy to hear that the new: underground – private – Group is nearing completion. It is difficult, especially when people are basically “volunteering their time”  to help although I never ask any of my staff to work for free – EVER .  ALL of them get paid in “Care packages they receive 6 times a year” so being as I am in need of some “man-hours” on the new group/store. . if there are any others that could give a few hours of their time and are dedicated Killerstranders . . please get a hold of me. . . at KillerTrinity3@aol.com. – you will need a tiny bit of knowledge about how forum's/blogs – groups work….because Lord knows – I don’t !

TCE (this.changes.everything) will open this month, PROMISE! Come Hell or High water…

OH…..and the 20,000 People ? ?  That is how many comb the pages of the Killer Trinity web sites – weekly !   I made a mental note at the beginning of all this, that if I ever reached 20,000 people in a week – well….lets just say I would completely and utterly be blown away…………………and I am.

Thanks for all your support Gang……………

KC

Enjoy some brunettes

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Crown n Glory228 bombshell mops165

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Killer Strands Hair

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Ammonia in Hair Color /Facts Talk… B/S walks

Ammonia Friend or Foe

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Ammonia, the big bad chemical of hair color, is what they would have you believe. I have been explaining this one for years, and am going to give it one more shot, in light of the recent entry to hair color L’Oreal’s Non-Ammonia Hair Color ….INOA. To me? I feel the entire issue is just a misunderstanding and the very low rating of the current professional hair color by L’Oreal used the misunderstanding to introduce this new line and give it a (hopeful) boost in the race of Professional Hair color lines. Waiting until the initial flurry of advertising, analyzing,  and reviewing was over with, I’m ready to give you the exact same report as I predicted.

Style: "Neutral"

To begin with (as I always do) I went to purchase and run it through some of my own personal tests, that have showed me over the years how reliable they are.  I look for a well balanced (violet-based) “blond”, great Gray coverage, 1 gorgeous brunette with the more color selections –in both LEVELS and TONES - -the better.

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The Color Line I am reviewing must have certain ingredients in the accompanying “developers” > that (to me) is a sign the company “gets it” as far as quality and how hair color affects the hair’s health. The ingredients I feel must be in the developers are mandatory for moisturizing, conditioning, and lipid-replacement during the hair-coloring ‘development process’. This is the one and only time the cuticle of the hair is open -- THE ONE  AND ONLY > > > TIME! ( so you may change the internal structure of the hair – whether it be for ‘re-conditioning’ or ‘re-coloring’ even ‘re-moisturizing’ by using a premium Developer.

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Too many hair stylists {to save money} will purchase giant drums of cheap Developer and then put that developer in the “other” Premium bottles. Just like they do with ketchup in restaurants ( my daughter told me they fill up Heinz ketchup bottles with giant vats of crappy ketchup-) same difference. You know what is even MORE embarrassing ? Sassoon had us do that in Academy, it was one of the first things we learned - - how to dilute developer down. Sassoon was an Academy, it did not have “repeat clientele” we did everyone’s hair once. So there was a lot for me to learn about managing my own hair color business, once I got out on my own. Sassoon did not care about the health or strength of a clients hair, because they never experienced the ramifications by clients complaining about the condition of their hair.

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THAT CHANGED when I went on my own. . . with the clientele I acquired in Malibu, California…my number #1 GOAL needed to be the health of the hair. These people were back in my chair 4-5-6 weeks later and on-going for years… so that was something I had to construct myself, I wanted it to be the best in the business. I used to tell my clients, I didn’t ‘need’ business cards for my hair work. THEY were my business cards - - what better business card than a walking 3-D one?! I would get more referrals from random people asking my clients who did their hair, that was always the highest compliment, in my book.

The whole Ammonia – in….Ammonia – out controversy started 10 years back, at that time I was not educated in Cosmetic Chemistry, and what chemicals and ingredients do ‘what’ to the hair. When I went to purchase L’Oreal’s INOA, they wouldn't sell it to me……..why? You are required to take a “class” in order to purchase it…they wouldn’t even sell it to me! I was furious, I told them………..GOLDWELL tried that 6-7 years back with their color called ELUMEN.

Do you see ELUMEN on the shelves now?

No you don’t  - - - - -  that little trick doesn’t work

Colorists of the upper caliber – whom are the ones that will give your line the publicity it needs to become popular…don’t have time to take a $25.00 class (PLUS - they want to charge you to take a class in order to purchase this new color product they are trying to launch !) – are you kidding me?! After looking it over and reading some of the literature… there was HUGE RED #2 :

NO BLONDE’s!

So for that to be  part of its secrets . . . well, that is not a good one.

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What is ammonia? what does it do in hair color?

Ammonia has LLLLLLong been used in permanent hair coloring.

  Ammonia sets the stage for the hair color to penetrate the hair strand by opening up the surface of the hair strand so that the dye can get through.Then, it effectively LIFTS OUT THE NATURAL HAIR PIGMENT so that the artificial hair color molecules can penetrate and deposit. That’s when you see the new shade, so essentially, ammonia is largely responsible for hair color’s ability to alter hair tone – without washing out.

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Any hair color without ammonia most commonly contains MEA ( mono-ethanolamine ). MEA is effective at performing the first step of a color application – OPENING the cuticle. However, because the MEA molecule is 3.5 times larger than ammonia, it cannot penetrate the hair as effectively. So, in my opinion, I feel it cannot be as efficient at lifting the natural hair color OUT-OF-THE- Hair Strand & depositing the artificial hair color deep into the strand. 3.5 times bigger in a molecule is more than enough to render it not NEARLY as effective. Covering gray will not be nearly as long lasting, sufficient lightening {required to produce amazing blond and red shades} will just not be there.

Having tried MEA in a few hair color tests a few years back, I noticed that it didn’t rinse out of the hair as well either, which led to progressive darkening and dulling.

beautiful long straight hair

Ammonia has a distinctive odor, which if you ask me. . . is the true objection to it. Personally, I like the ingredient that WORKS…the one that allow me to achieve the tone of hair color I am seeking and leaving the hair in good condition. I have always found ammonia to do the best job in achieving the proper tones – mainly because of the size of the molecule. The molecules must shrink to go “inside”…if they are too big - - they all will not fit. There is a layer of “common sense” here to hair coloring.

ALL Permanent Hair Color and Demi Permanent Hair Color consists of:

  • an oxidant
  • alkalizer
  • Dye

and that’s it.

Damage that may happen during the hair color process is caused by free radicals formed when the alkalizer reacts with the oxidant. Ammonia and MEA are both alkalizers.

One of the known problems of MEA is how hard it is to get it out of the hair strands when the color process is finished. One of the reasons for that “extra- training” they claim we need ? ? ? To explain how important it is that we not only rinse well, but shampoo TWICE with a Special shampoo that will be sure to get the MEA out of the hair strands, followed by 2 RINSES.

Knowing that, the most appropriate type of hair color for the MEA Alkalizer? Demi permanent.

When it comes to permanent hair color {which includes all blonds of any hue} In all tests I have studied, scientists have reported ammonia-based formulas provide longer-lasting color, more intense vibrancy, and superior gray coverage. As long as that are the results, I know for a fact, that anyone that has ever sat in my chair, cares more about 2 things:

  1. The end outcome of the hair color
  2. The health of their hair after it

10 out of 10, have never questioned ‘how’ I got their hair color to that point. If its healthy, that shows them I cared enough to make sure the hairs health was also in the equation.

                                                               Level 7 brow n wella                                                                                                               

TCE is getting very close to opening. Don’t give up on us, it has been much more time consuming and riddled with various issues that we have been tackling one by one.

Just a little bit longer . . . I hope the wait will be worth it, I feel it will.

Happy Summer KillerStranders

Killer Chemist

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Down-Under Product Line Hits KillerSTRANDS : both Shampoos and Hair Styling = Stellar

KEVIN MURPHY

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Kevin Murphy hair products were developed because as an editorial hair stylist he (like I) was unsatisfied with what was out there. The products are heavy, greasy, and not nearly in touch with how the hair should be cared for. Kevin is also (as am I)  into giving hairdressing a 'greener' face by creating a line that uses natural, organic ingredients. I have been trying to carry his products since first using his wonderful first attempt at a Beach Salt Spray 15 years ago. I have kept my eye on him and his line ever since.

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The problems came with his line being made in Australia (his home) and having no distribution here. Lately, I have been chomping at the bit to bring in 1 full dynamite line for you, 1 complete line that fully meets my standards  - - - I have hit the Goldmine with KM products, every single one are up to my standards. So I sat down one day and just started calling and emailing { I decided I wasn't going to stop till I spoke to someone and got this line}  I finally reached his office in Australia who then connected me to a REP here in California, he finally decided to be represented in the States by a host of Beauty
Representatives, a little xtra effort worked.

This is it, it truly is. . . . he is known for his styling products and they all superb . . although his shampoos are his newest adventure and I was just praying they were up to the standards of the styling agents ( usually a company can master one and not the other?? ! ? ) IMG_0167

 

SO............ I personally and 11 of us have been using them for 2 months. They are now my number 1 recommendation as far as all the shampoos we carry . . . a bit pricier - yes. . . BUT, you only need a tiny bit to make a huge amount of lather. E X C E L L E N T is how I sum the line up - couldn't be happier. All KM products are just awesome and here are some of their positive points:

  • scent & vitamin power
  • shape of bottles (square) use 40% less plastic, yet holds more product (less waste in landfills)
  • they make a contribution towards global carbon pollution with every sale
  • www.kevinmurphy.com.au to find out how they really make a difference
  • I respect any company that goes above and beyond and not only thinks of profits and sales + the quality of the products are king-of-the-crop

Today I have added his version of the summers biggest hit: DRY SHAMPOO

FRESH HAIR - Dry shampoo

Kevin's Dry Shampoo Spray is the king of the crop. 

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He is a styling master, plus I am so impressed to see a nice large size for a reasonable price. Dry shampoos give the hair body and the look of freshly washed hair. The reason these have had such a resurgence in popularity is because most are using them to give a dry matted Volume to the hair. ALTHOUGH, everyone with Oily hair, or those of you who must get off of the horrific idea that you need to shampoo your hair every day, can use this to get you through the detox period. No one should shampoo your hair everyday. NO ONE. Here is your answer if you do. Your hair will go through a detox period ( approx. 2 weeks) and then you can shampoo 3 times a week - MAX.

A nice big can of the best Dry Shampoo on the market . . . for a very decent price...

Killer Chemist

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Thriven Deep Conditioner + Compliments

 

May: More Thriven Arrives on your door-step while compliments of KillerStrands surprize

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Always remember your roots, where you came from and who you are. As much as I concentrate on hair color education for many of you, I never want to forget our roots and how Killer Strands Hair Clinic began. On teaching you how to acquire:

HEALTHY HAIR 

with my ace training at Vidal Sassoon Academy (while still privately owned; btw) – it was drilled into my brain and I concur – nothing is as important as Healthy – Shiny – Strong Hair……….NOTHING. Not one thing should be applied to the hair that will destroy its integrity, shine & growth. There is such a huge gap between what the public knows in how to create shiny strong hair and actual “fact”. . . it was the original reason for writing this BLOG…for giving “YOU” the public the knowledge that I possess, that many Sassoon educators know. 

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10,000 Heads began 15 years ago with 3 Steps. It (obviously) was not called 10,000 HEADS (the amount of heads-of-hair, I had worked on at one point in my career), but the theory and bascis are the same. Do whatever is necessary to contribute to healthy hair. Hair Color need not be detrimental, quite the opposite as a matter of fact {begin reading the Blog from the beginning}, yes it will take a little work. There are very few rewarding things in life that don’t take ‘ a-little-work!’. The number 1 recommendation I give people “NEW” to Killer Strands {begin reading the Blog from the beginning}.  

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When I reviewed the stats for May, I saw that THRIVEN had risen to the top of all 350 products we carry as the NUMBER 1 product sold. I don’t know ‘why’ it surprises me, its what we began with.

I sold THRIVEN in my Malibu Salon for $94.50, 8 years ago – and could never keep it in stock. Its a full day experience for me to put the concoction together, with the amount of it we sell now, I don’t know how much longer I can continue to do it myself. If you have not experienced THRIVEN, I will encourage you to give it AND the SECRET SUPPLEMENT a 90 day spin. (information on ‘where to purchase’ and how to incorporate into your life are enclosed w/ package). Remember, I have an 80-88% success rate with THRIVEN + Secret Supplement. There are 14 Steps to 10,000HEADS, we ask you incorporate the last 7 into your life and do your best on the first 7….the more you practice the better the improvement in your hairs health, strength and shine. Promise.10,000 heads - 14 STEPS - 12-20-09 - 3

Remember though, I am a rarity…I still have not heard of a single person (if you are out there – let me know!) that has training in all the different aspects of hair care that I do. Add to that my naturally inquisitive attitude, and you get what the members lovingly call me “ KC  - - or Killer Chemist”.badasshair247

Being the CHO (Chief Hair Officer) of Killer Strands Hair Clinic ; it puts me in a wonderful spot … I receive numerous compliments a week ( some are ‘due’ my Forum Staff, some my shipping/packing staff) the remainder are for me. I cannot stress how much these compliments mean to me, they give me the strength to keep going . . . they bring an indescribable warmth to my heart … they just truthfully MAKE - -  MY - - Day. I don’t want any of you to think I take your compliments lightly….EVER. EVERY single one means the world to me.

I used to THANK every single person, now I simply, do not have the time. Please know I appreciate every single one….I mean it,

every

single

one !

This week brought a compliment from the exact category of individuals I was sure would never send me one.         Hair Stylists/ Hair Educators.Bombshell hair124

I just had to share it with you

If you are a qualified and talented hair stylist/colorist the last thing you worry about are ‘other’ stylists.

Why should you?

Your book is so full of appointments there are waiting lists of people who want you to do their hair….there really isn’t any room for more clients. 40% of KillerStrands membership are licensed Hair Stylists (Yep!) looking for additional education, normally from smaller states – where it is not available. I commend these people for having the confidence and security to understand that what KillerStrands is doing is not against the hair industry and their business but rather “FOR” it.     

I would like you to read the following complimentary email I received from a new member:

“ ………….10:23 AM (23 hours ago)

Just by chance I found your blog.  Seems I am always searching for honest education.  I am a stylist of twenty-five years and I am still trying to sort fact from fiction!  I grew weary, in the early part of my career, with education from "professional" companies using education as a vehicle to sell and market their products.  Thus began my quest for education without sponsorship from any brand.  I think the first great information I found was a book by Tom Sollock, then I found Beth Minardi and traveled to NYC to take her class, then there was Roy Peters and Tom Despenza.  I wish I had known you at that point.  I have spent thousands of dollars and bought many books and the things I have learned thus far are in your two year blog, better said and more easily understood.

I am also a cosmetology instructor. I work when needed, substituting, color classes, cutting classes, for a Jr. College.  Your knowledge and skill of communicating in book form would be a great contribution to the cosmetology profession. It would have the potential of making the profession, professional.

I have ordered several of your products and found everything you have said to be true.  Thank you for this great resource of information and products.

Diana S.

TEXAS………………”

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I realize the web has changed a lot in the past few years. There is so much BS - - - so much ‘mis’ information…you don’t know what to believe in. There was a 2-3 year period - - when the info on the Web was accurate – it ‘was’ educational, you could rely on it.

With Diana’s note, I feel she “summed” Killer Strands up - - better than I.   Thanks Diana. . . and to ALL that send us compliments, it means the world to me and inspires me to continue on

Happy Fathers Day, Dad . . .  and to all the Fathers out there

HUG  A   FATHER

Killer Chemist

 

Monday, June 14, 2010

I Scream …You Scream… We All Scream For Ice Cream Hair Color Palette

Krazy Kolors Go Pastel

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Yes the style’s are over-the-top . . . but check-out the beauty and what can be done with hair in 2010. The top Hair Stylist in the world right now is a gentleman named Eugene Soulemain and although most of have never heard of him - he is the Vidal Sassoon of 2010 – this is his work.

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Its not everyone’s taste, not even mine. . . BUT, sometimes you just have to admire the complexity that it took to make these colors AND styles happen. In the top echelons of hair there have always been these extremists, extreme texture, extreme color, extreme haircuts. Makes the observer wonder, “who in the world would ever wear this ?? “ To that, I respond….not many..in fact pretty much no one. The point is to push the boundaries of what can be done, so that the extreme nature of these ‘do’s – are then re-interpreted for film and other ventures. Think Avatar, Music Videos, Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, Video Games, etc.

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A Salute to the Vampire hotness of today, am a huge True Blood Fan….I’d love to see this on the show.

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This looks like Lady Gaga

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   hmmmmmmm ? ? ? ? ?

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Check out the insane make-up job on all of them, I mean as weird and crazy as it is…what else would look good with that type of hair…it looks very cool Crown n Glory295

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I think it was last week , but one of you  wrote in the Group ( I think it was ) that you really wanted to have the color of this certain flower….at the time, I responded with : “while the color of the flower was drop dead…I wasn’t too sure it would look very good on the hair.

I am now here to admit, I was COMPLETELY WRONG. . .  COMPLETELY… Check this out . . . . .

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I would love to have someone take this on right now. . . its bold but it is….. B E A U T I F U L….{the hardest part is finding a person daring enough to do the wild and crazy color work ..I so enjoy doing}

so, whomever  that was….I’m impressed with your “eye for color” – obviously it is leaps and bounds ahead of my own.

Summer is here,

do something fun with your hair  - - You only live once, and hair is more resilient  than you think

Killer Chemist