Showing posts with label Bangs / Fringe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bangs / Fringe. Show all posts

Monday, January 18, 2010

Bangs or No Bangs : That Is The Question

Fringe Benefits <> Cut Your Own Bangs/Fringe

1212121fringe The proper term for that triangle of hair across your forehead when cut to your eyebrows, is “FRINGE” - - - NOT BANGS. The Sub-title was truly the Title - - I was fearful if I titled this post properly no one would read it . Some-how, some-way … years ago, the slang term for it was started by some silly Yankee yahoo thinking he was being clever. Obviously he was either mentally ill or ‘on drugs’. The entire rest of the world calls that pie-shaped area of the hair “FRINGE”. Canadians & Americans are the only morons that use the ridiculous name, bangs. Having asked various elderly Stylists and instructors along the way – who-what-why-when the term was switched, not a soul had a clue. The word ‘fringe’ makes sense…bangs does not….I know – I know >>> a lot of words don’t, but I have always had a fascination with where words stem from….so I’m always looking for the root, just a silly hobby of mine. Having spent a career trying to change the word, with this Forum maybe I can make more of a difference. Now that you know, “ Fringe” is the word I will use to finish this Post. If everyone that reads this post begins to use the word “Fringe” maybe we can reinstate the proper word . . . however small the effort, remember “change” comes from one small step.

sb10062929e-001

Now, in continuing my constant theme of finding the best hair “cutter” in your town to cut your hair and sticking to that. The very best method of trimming your own fringe is by starting with the fringe cut correctly to your specifications by a professional.

To be perfectly honest, if you have a great cutter…they should offer you complimentary fringe trim touch-ups in between hair cuts. That is an age-old tradition every great Hollywood cutter I know offers regularly. I always offered it, as I changed the norm in “haircut frequency” rules: I’m sure you’ve always heard you should have your hair trimmed every 4-6 weeks, which once I got into the Salon world found absurd. Its much too frequent I felt…with the range of hair growth being from 1/4 inch to 1 inch in a months time….the average is 1/2 inch. Now in my experience a great Sassoon cut – really does last about 7-8 weeks. The only time I would shorten it is on very short hair styles & super fast growing shorter hair styles, certain short haircuts might need to be cut at 5-6 weeks but that is very few and far between. hairuk17 When I got so busy I couldn’t cram anymore people in my book, I had to begin coming up with methods of jamming more people in an already filled up book. This method, worked well – made my clients happy and truthfully I learned the standard rules for haircut frequency were made to increase business, not because it was necessary. It was the first rule I was taught in Academy that I learned to rebel against, learning not everything they taught was strict fully for the “art of hair ”… although do not take this wrong….no company on planet Earth is more into the “Art of Hair – cutting, coloring and styling” – more than Vidal Sassoon. I was so fortunate to have an education like that.killercutscolors734 So get your fringe trimmed to your liking FIRST by your Stylist, then if and when you aren’t able to make it into your complimentary trims { which btw I found no one ever took advantage of } this is how I would recommend you trim your own. Once you have it trimmed correctly, its pretty darn easy to give them a touch-up till your next hair cut. I know it scares people, but don’t let it. That’s the first thing, ‘fear’ gives people of confidence and talent -- the ‘Doctor Jekyll <> Mr. Hyde Syndrome’…I used to see it all the time as a Stuntwoman. Some of the actors that you know and admire, when confronted with a scary situation of a stunt -- would turn into whimpering yahoo’s – it was remarkable to me. So, do whatever you have to do to keep your confidence intact, maybe reading this will help somewhat.

Another misconception is when you come in for your next haircut appointment, we can tell that you have trimmed your own fringe. Nothing could be further from the truth. As your hair grows out. . .different areas grow out at different rates, have you ever noticed that? The center of the back of your hair grows the fastest on pretty much all women, as in this picture . . . 82246798

See how the hair grows longer in center-rear?

Ever let your hair grow out for a year or 2 without a hair cut? This is a mellow photo (couldn’t find a better one), most of us would have a radical dip from the side of our hair to the tip of the back. Its a little weird quirk of the hair rarely spoken about. Notice how the sides of your hair are never as long as the back? This is what I’m talking about…how the hair on different parts of your head grows at different speeds. Inevitably, every single person that has come in for that first trim after letting their hair grow for 6 months, 1 year or longer, has hair that comes to a long point in the center back. This is why a hairstylist cannot tell whether YOU have trimmed your hair or whether it was another stylist or ‘what’ {?}….DON’T WORRY ABOUT IT. I learned to never expect my clients to come in for that free fringe trim… they never had the time.

Now I am going to over dissect the art of trimming your fringe to the ‘N th’ degree, please take what you need and leave the rest.

killercutscolors392

Remember my rule about parting the hair for coloring…that same rule is the “Sassoon method” of accomplishing most everything on the head of hair. Sassoon took what was a random, fairly unorganized way of cutting hair and turned it into geometry and precision. DON’T LET THAT SCARE YOU, let it comfort you. Before him there was no “plan”…there was no guide, not even a hypothesis that made sense that would work on everyone. With Sassoon came the art of dividing up the round surface ( the head) with strands that fell from it. . . followed by the use of shapes…which equaled continual successful haircuts – because it was based on science -- the science of GEOMETRY. It sounds harder than it is, I promise. Just trust in me that the Sassoon method of dividing up the head in equal ‘quarters’ before any procedure whether it be cutting, coloring, trimming and even styling…truly helps and makes each procedure easier. For all you /Stylists that follow along (btw: which there are many) I would encourage you to purchase some of the Sassoon DVD’s – I actually worked on a couple of them – although I never felt like they taught enough to really learn all the various techniques. They put on Advanced cutting classes at the Academy here in LA {only one in United States} and I always felt they didn’t teach every step of a certain haircut via the DVD’s in order to force people to attend the Adv. Classes {which are expensive – though well worth it}.

  • Resist the urge to cut Wet hair, its easier to see what you’re doing when its dry. Besides until you are used to how much the hair stretches and shrinks from wet to dry…you don’t want your first attempt to chop off way too much a la --> Katy Perry fringe. Katy Perry Bangs
  • Take the extra time at the beginning to SECTION the hair as I show here in these HEAD SHEETS:

222QUAD parting 223QUAD parting

QUAD SECTIONING

224quad parting 226 quad parting

{ A good rule of thumb for any styling, coloring or cutting you plan to do: always begin with the QUAD sectioning }

  • Invest in proper hair cutting shears { I am planning on finding the best hair cutting shear at the big Hair Show, in 2 weeks }. the scissors don’t have to be expensive just made for cutting hair. Having found a couple pairs, I just want to make sure there aren’t any better for the $$.

Assuming you have had your fringe trimmed previously by a qualified Cutter, at this point you are going to want to section away the hair you don’t want to touch with scissors. If they cut them properly the section should look like a triangle. 121212fringe9944

  • Take the hair from the part behind your ear to the front hairline….twist it up and clip it…on both sides. This ‘should’ leave hair loose and ready to trim

333fringe trim

  • Now if the fringe hair is an inch or more, too long… the first step will be to get some of the length off. Accomplish that by turning the scissors perpendicular to the floor. In other words NOT LIKE THIS: 555fringe trim1

This way would be parallel to the floor…and is not going to give you the proper look. Therefore, with your scissors held perpendicular to the floor {like the photo BELOW} – take the tips off going all the way across the ends of the fringe

555fringe trim99

  • Now with the length of the fringe about at the length of the above photo ( or about 1/2 inch longer than your desired length) section the fringe into 3 equal sections (approximate is fine) . Grab the first one, pull it straight up into the air and twist it.
  • Snip the ends with the point of the scissors cutting diagonally,a little at a time,so that each strand is a different length.555fringetrim5
  • Drop each section to see where it falls, if necessary – redo…twisting and re-cutting.
  • Pull up the next section, matching it to the length of the first one, before snipping. Repeat until your fringe is trimmed.

The twisting helps give that choppy look that makes a fringe look natural as opposed to a straight bowl-like trim, something I find is the biggest problem to ‘you’ the client.

In styles for 2010, a bigger fringe is the new look. The bigger fringe comes from starting the point of the triangle back farther and farther on top of the head. The advantage? It gives you a very healthy – very heavy looking fringe. The Disadvantage? It takes hair away from the sides of your hairstyle. Which can be fine for some and disastrous for others. Through this blog I deal with so many of you that deal with living in a town of unqualified hair stylists, many of you have gotten so discouraged with disastrous Salon appointments you have turned to teaching yourself how to do things correctly. If this is also your case with “cuts’’ that is a much bigger animal to conquer. The only part of cutting you have power over is your fringe….otherwise it is nearly impossible to cut ones own hair…

But, at least now you have the tools to trim your own FRINGE.

Are you used to the new word yet ? ? ? ? I hope so.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Faces Full of Fringe <> BANGS - Billions & Billions of Bangs if you must

Transform Your Look with a Brand New FRINGE






Transform your look with a Fringe


they are XXXtremely Sexy and can help to accentuate your features
There is hardly a face that cannot pull off some form of the favorite face framing technique
Consider the largest fringe you EVER have, that's current and wham-bamn - - can you handle it

I will do a DEMO on a mannequin to teach you how to trim your own >> in between Salon visits - any requests?


{In the U.S. we call them Bangs - I refuse to call them that Un-Godly name - FRINGE is the proper name - PERIOD - I hearby annoint all Killerstranders the right to begin changing the term - right here and right now > in the states}

Friday, March 7, 2008

Pirouette Times 2 & The "Katie" Cut

Pirouette Hair Color Technique alongside the New "Katie Cut", she added Fringe ( bangs) to a otherwise smashing cut.



The Katie Cut -- I predict will be the "cut" of the Year.

There has not been a cut like this since the Anniston

so very long ago



Jen -- meet your match.







































































The coloring TEchnique called Pirouette.
This is a single pirouette . . . with the shape of a STAR parted away at the top of the head. and ONLY that shape is colored nothing else.
Please see the demonstration below . . . submit comments with Any questions. I will be showing 2 variations on the same technique tomorrow.











































Here we have HOLLY.........Holly says NO TO HIGHLIGHTS>

Yes, to the Pirouette Technique





Now in these other 2 photos is the Color


Technique called Pirouette. A single Pirouette. There are many different variations, with this being the easiest.I have shot What a difference a cut makes... huh? even on Holly's stone face! a complete demo for you to see how its done a simpler method of jazzing up your hair, without using the dreaded "highlights" button all the time . . . A STAR is parted away on top of the head....It can be a 5-6-7 point STAR. YOUR choice. The fewer the points the better...This was a 7 pointer. Whether you do it to yourself, have your stylist do it, you now can see how its done. Maybe, your friend does it on your hair - whichever way it works for you....I bet you will adore it.


Then you "mask" it off. Like painting. Using Color Block like you see here, or barrier bream of some sort ( vaseline I've heard can be used or any hand cream type ). Covering the hair that you do NOT want to color....Leaving the "star" shape clean and ready to lighten.









Masked off ready to go.

See the star?





Used off-the-scalp bleach & 40 Volume..


In addition I will show 3 variations on the same technique, so with each touch-up you can change it up for variety and spice. This also grows "out" beautifully , quite naturally it grows into paint drips ! Many (typical) Stylists, don't promote these types of techniques, then the client isn't coming back for constant touch-ups..or if you are too busy (I was) - you rely on your talent... more should. See the start shaped hair with only bleach on it...? leave on for 90 minutes.... Then rinse and shampoo & after-treat -


would welcome this type of technique..only because it is beautiful and all those others worries are just put to rest.




Here she is shampooed and rinsed and wet headed......I forgot to take one shot of me applying the toner... You see right from the bleach, the color is a Yellower blond.. . . . I applied the ROSE beige Toner I concoted my self, as I have had many people inquire about it.
Using Koleston Perfect 9/5 RV -- OYSTER BEIGE -- 1/2 ounce...
ADD to that about 1/2 Inch of 7RRV Warm Burgundy Red
-- Mix the two together...then add equal proportions of 20 Volume Developer.
WELLLL--AA !! A gorgeous ROSE BEIGE...
Basically what is happening ....?
You are mixing OFF WHITE (oyster beige) with Red-Violet (Burgundy Red).............
....Red + White = PINK
See? Just like painting!




here is the Rose Beige.... See what shape the star forms and the points can be moved all around for different looks. .. . . tomorrow the additional looks with this same technique!

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Stop . . .Drop . . .and Roll >> Short Cuts Return With a Bang!


Hair Cuts must not be done by YOU.
That is one thing I fully believe in having done professionally.

Problem is , how do you find a good Cutter?
Three of the best ways?
  • Stop someone who HAS a great cut... {one of the best ways}.
  • Call the top couple Salons in your city and ask if there is anyone that received their License from the Vidal Sassoon Academy ( thousands of Stylists from all over the world have)
  • Ask Receptionist at your local Salon ( risky)

Short Hair is IN <> if you have never worn it, everyone must try it at least once in their life....look at Katy's hair....it never looked better...

I dare you . . . .



This is absolutely Smashing