Tint Back to Natural – 2 stage Process - STAGE 2
Base + Slices Technique
This will be my last “re-run”: repeating what I have already written, I just find this is not easy for me. Having 257 ‘Posts’ under my belt, I have found that I try to write as if I was talking to you, to try to make my words sound better. Its funny, my mother has always told me that I am a “lousy writer”, it was not until this Blog when someone mentioned they liked my writing, did I ever think that maybe I was OK enough to get by, I s
hould’ve known better, she says that about most everything I’ve done. That’s part of the stumbling block for good Blogs I think. Everyone wants a great writer at the helm, but if that’s what you have then that is most likely their specialty. . .”WRITING”, not beauty, or skin, or sports, or guns or hair or whatever. So I feel if you want a great informative blog, authored by a specialist in ‘whatever’ category…such as hair, make-up, skin, guns, politics, most likely they are not a Pulitzer prize winning author, most likely they are like me – because their specialty is their focus, not writing. Having never spent any time learning to
write properly, is only because I have been busy learning other things along life’s path, not because I didn’t care. My salon clientele used to come to me just to listen to me talk about everything I knew about hair, I’m passionate about everything I do, so I hoped that if I mimic that experience in writing, it would not come out too objectionable…but to have to repeat it all again?…errr grumble-grumble, terribly frustrating for me. It’s almost over. Thinking about the reasons this method is so successful for you, who want to go from blonde back to natural, or some morph of it, reminded me the reason clients like you like this method so much. You are used to the most high maintenance hair there is… a Bleach n Tone…it takes the most frequent touch-ups, toners & care. Then, to go from that to straight 1 color brown, is not interesting enough to most of you - so this intermediary version satisfies many of your urges and desires for fun and fascinating hair! This way you can plan your next color choices, some end up
putting red-violet slices in the mix or copper even, which adds to that overall ‘fun and fascination’ ! Lets Begin
Tools
- Towels
- Plastic clips
- Tail comb
- Cutting comb
- Old shirt/cape
- 3 Plastic or glass bowls
- Gloves
- 3 Tint brushes
- In-Depth – Wella Treatment
- Shampoo
- Detangler
- Liquid Hair Restructurizer
- Timer
- Selected 3 Colors & Developers
Formulations
- 7NBG Colorissimo+ 20 Volume
- Blondor Crème Bleach + 10 Volume
- Mink Beige RenColor Level 8 + 17 Volume
1. Perform a preliminary PATCH test, 24 hours prior to the service. Proceed only if the test is negativ
e. If you are an allergic person I would highly encourage this step. It needs to be done with every ‘new’ brand and product you apply to you head. For instance, If you use Renbow’s Colorissimo (permanent tube color) the decide to use the RenColor (permanent bottle color) for something else, yes the patch test needs to be run again. PATCH – SKIN. 2. Perform a Preliminary STRAND Test. This should always be done as soon as you get the color you are planning to use. It’s a test run….a vision of what it will be like when finished, don’t be too lazy or think you know what results will be. Part off ½-inch square strand of hair in the lower crown – underneath – (not at the very bottom). Use a foil to hold the strip of hair and apply a small mixture of the color. Check it at 15 minutes, then at 25. Note the timing down on a card. STRAND-HAIR.
3. Remove jewelry – apply cape or old shirt.
Procedure
This is where you should start looking at the posted photos down the right side of this post, begin at the top and just glance at each one on the way down. Then read thru steps and compare to photos -- you are not given the capacity to line them up (with the words) – sorry.
Take “Before” “During” & “After” Photos (minimum 6), remember you can win the CRIB COLORIST AWARD, “if” you document your own hair color adventure. Hair Color needs to be from Killer Strands. Noting formula’s, techniques, trials & tribulations, ** what you learned new from Killer Strands Blog & the Killer Strands Group. Post the whole thing: story (minimum 1000 words) & pictures on a page in the group ( ask for help from T, Detour, Nik or myself if needed). When this is done YOU win the Crib Colorist award. It doesn’t need to be correct or special or anything, you just need to document it all for us to view, to win.
The PRIZE? ? ?
THE CRIB COLORIST AWARD which includes a gift from Killer Strands that includes:
- Hair Color Key
o Carbon Combs: 1 tail comb & 1 cutting comb
o 4 oz. Measuring cup
o Shampoo Sprayer for sink
o 2 Tint bowls
o 2 Tint brushes
o 12 pc. Hair testing swatches – real human hair……..So think about it! - 1. Part & Section hair is always the first step in all procedures & techniques. On this we will only be parting NOSE TO NECK > Part 2: Section-off the top
which is the basis for all wonderful color work including ribbons, slices, the veil, almost every great technique. Sassoon does this differently than any other hair school, so pay attention. Part into even pie shapes or triangles on either side of the center part. PRACTICE THIS, because it needs to be perfect à EVEN à and not sloppy. Have you gotten your doll head yet? Get one; they have men, women + every length of hair. If enough of you get them I will take you through an elementary cutting class. Let me know. - 2. Fold your Foils, I’m trying to get a hold of foils I can carry for you, at a decent price. Remember a double ¼” fold at the top of one side.
- 3. Prepare the color formulations, be all ready to go before you actually mix them up, and remember the color is best when used immediately. For this we are using 7NBG + 20Volume Colorissimo – Renbow {or use your own color formulation at this point}. Crème Bleach (most mild there is) + 10 or 20 Volume depending on the amount of lift
needed. Last, Mink Beige #22 RenColor + 17 Volume. * * * * RETURN TOPS TO ALL DEVEL
OPERS * * * *. The idea here being to use 2 light brown colors to some thin slices on either side of the head/hair, to begin the re-introduction of darker colors to the hair and your vision. - 4. Put on Gloves, have comb, foils and bowls lined up and ready to go. Line up mirrors if your tackling this yourself. Its actually made to apply to yourself there is basically no work on the back side of the head!
- 5. Begin on one side, hold the section of hair and take your FIRST slice of hair a super-thin slice of hair à AT AN ANGLE -- ½ inch from the front with tail comb.
- 6. To “test” the proper angle of your section, you should stick a comb in the middle of the section back to the apex of the parting in the back.
- 7. Press the foil down to the scalp, slip it under the slice of hair, lay the hair down, and paint on the Level 8 Mink Beige -- covering completely all the hairs. Starting
with the lightest Color first, so there is not a dark stripe right at the front next to your face. - 8. Continue the next one leaving a ½ to ¾ inch of hair alone in between {this is very hard to say use your best judgment} some people have small heads and ¾” would be WAY too much, this all depends on the size of your head. Look to the photos to see how I did it on Molly’s head of hair. Spacing the foils according to the hair and head size.
- 9. Alternating here with Level 8 Mink Beige + 17 Vol., then bleach + 10V, then Colorissimo 7NBG & 20 Vol., bleach & 10Vol up the one side till finished. Then up the other side till finished.
- 10. Process for 35 minutes, (this is a tough call remember when going the same color or darker – you want to add 10-15 minutes to the timing…..when going lighter you don’t) Here you are doing both at the same time! Its not a perfect world.
- 11. Rinse the hair with lukewarm water – thoroughly – in the sink with a spray hose contraption ( I will be carrying these soon as well)
- 12. Lightly shampoo with an SLS-FREE Shampoo, rinse again. Shake the excess water out.
- 13. Apply Wella’s IN DEPTH After-color treatment to mainly hair that has been colored – massaging in. Leave on for 5-20 minutes – rinse. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP, this brings the pH balance back to the hair and helps with conditioning, moisturizing, re-balancing and shine.
- 14. Towel dry, Spray with Wella LIQUID HAIR Restructurizer, your Detangler – Dry & Style
- 15. Clean-up and sanitation . . . . Putting combs (not clips), bowls (not tint brushes) through a dishwa
sher cycle sanitizes them for your next go-round! For clips and Tint Brushes: clean and rinse with super hot water for 3-4 minutes to sanitize. For Killerstranders there is a spray disinfectant (I will carry soon) that is handy called MARVY spray disinfectant you can simply spray everything with. Cleanliness is next to Godliness and Hair OCDness ! - 16. Jot down in your hair notebook what went down and how you would change it next time, don’t rely on your memory.
- 17. YOU ARE FINISHED- How did you do? Take photos – post in the GROUP, everyone is anxious to know how you did
Next time you would add more browns - different Levels and tones to add to depth and interest.
