Captioned Slide Show -- to add to the the previous post, with additional photos - Enjoy
June 7, 2008
Scroll to bottom of page for brand new Slide Show :
Applying hair color to roots, 1 quadrant at a time
Showing posts with label Color Retouch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Color Retouch. Show all posts
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Parting The Red Sea: Sectioning The Hair
Parting -- Sectioning -- Tools
Long Overdue Post which I do apologize to those of you that I have promised it to.
Alas, here it is.
In normal everyday Cosmo Schools they spend at least 4-5 months on this topic, at Sassoon, we spent about a month. That is how important it is and I know it and I invite you all to listen, learn and practice this. In preparation to Color, to Cut, to Perm, to Straighten, & to Blow Dry . . . the art of Preparation is about the most important step you will take in the entire process. Please don't discount it. I know so many like to crack open those bottles and pile on the color, while asking questions later. So many of you try that, only to come back to me with your tail between your legs and defeated. I honestly wish from the bottom of my heart that you could all avoid that step, which was the purpose of this site to begin with, so try to absorb this and at best . . . practice it a few times.
Hair Preparation includes Hair consultation which is what we tackle in the GROUP and in private settings on this web site. Consultation includes, what Level & Tone are you now and what Level & Tone do we want to be when we are finished, that we have covered in many posts to date.
Basic Tools for Hair Color. Within the Academy they give you an arms length list that you are required to purchase, as you cannot take the State Board Test without all of those tools. So many are outdated and still sit at the bottom of a Hair Case, so you will learn the ones you NEED & use constantly - the Bare Basics. We will cover preparation to haircolor & begin with the list of what I would suggest.
All of these products can be purchased at your local beauty supply or Target. I find a difference in quality, even in combs, I don't know if you will or not - your decision.
Cutting Comb: When I first got in this gig, I was shocked that people actually used combs. Seemed so archaic to me, then I learned they become your best friend. So cozy up and get a couple of these, the photo is a very typical one, and I always have 20 - 25 of these ready to go, 2-3 will be sufficient for you.
Tail Comb: This bugger is handy, for anything and everything (getting lettuce out of your teeth, even) Parting is its main mission and sectioning comes in second. Guess what so many of the older Stylists use it for ? my favorite. . . . highlights....NOT. Remember: highlights are history. Many many uses for this, get the best one you can. Maybe get one $5.00 and 1-2 for $
1.00. ?
Paddle Brush: My favorite all around brush. At Sassoon we use an old England stand-by..Denman brushes. Another point of contention for me when I began this adventure. The paddle brush looks up-to-date, but you should see some of their others. They do look like they are out of the 19th century hair vaults, but one more time -- they rock. Their isn't a Denman brush I wouldn't use, and they are super reasonably priced. The paddle you see here is $12.00 , and they are everywhere, check their site. The 9-row is the best blow-drying brush around, although that does come along with the funny technique we teach...once I introduce it to you I imagine you will be a sucker for it as well.
Clips: they must be strong like mine, or you will spend more money on replacing them than the cheap ones are worth. About $6-8 for 6. A Must.
Clean Touch: I have a Matrix one at the moment as you can see by my dye remover, but CLEAN TOUCH can be had at Sally's and that was Sassoon's choice. This is a must, for everyone except straight blonde's. Obviously blonde will not stain the skin, but if you use anything darker than a Level 8 in your hair - or plan to, I would highly suggest the big bottle which will last a lifetime ( works on clothes, the carpeting) Always - Always clean up the hairline. Keeping the head and hairline neat & clean while in working-mode, needs to be a goal of yours. Neat workspace = Neat work. Take the extra minutes to clean up as you go.
Color Block: A very handy little tool that I use in a few different ways. One of our Killerstranders is in love with the product she uses it while dyeing her lace wigs. Its a rich thick cream that keeps hair color from 'creeping'. Works well with super tricky hair color tricks, as well as coating the hairline with it to keep the color off the skin. Yep, a double shot way of keeping that damn color OFF-THE SKIN. Block it and Clean Touch it. As a hi-brow Colorist, you never EVER want one drop of Color on a clients forehead...I just don't think it should be done. Try to incorporate my standards into your practice, on yourself.
PARTING
Sectioning and Parting must be mastered. Otherwise you will spend hours of time with piles of hair in the wrong place and things will not come out near as easy or as organized as you might have hoped.
Every time you get ready to do something to your hair, you must part & section it first, every single last time. The first thing you should do when getting ready to do anything INCLUDING BLOWDRYING, is to reach for that b and part & section the hair, period. this should be the end of your "where do I start"? questions.
For a quick trick to memorize:
NOSE TO NECK . . . . . . . . . . . EAR TO EAR
Use that tail comb, your good one and do this 20 times. I'M SERIOUS. The thing is, its easy to do when the hair is wet, but 90% of hair color is begun on dry hair. So practice getting that part straight on dry hair - which is not quite so easy -it is important to be able to master it and for it to be in the right spot. Directly in the middle of your nose and head all the way back to the top of your spine. (a good time to have those rear-view mirrors installed in your bathroom) unless you have achieved access to the ultimate tool and that is a hair color partner. This can be a fun event, I hear it all the time now. Remember we are the founding fathers of a brand new American hobby -- Hair Color. I say, why the Hell not?
Now check out the top of the head here, there should be a criss-cross exactly in the middle of the head. Don't disregard this process please...parting affects how the hair color is applied and if we want to begin a new hobby we might as well use the business model from the most successful and reputable Hair Academy in the world. They are fanatic parting practitioners, I used to get very fed up.
This parting will work for a basic hair cut, something else I want to go into, and any basic hair color application. You now have 4 quadrants, that need to be looked at as their own unique individual sections. Applying the color to each quadrant needs to be purposeful and quick. I believe if you look at just getting through 1 quadrant at a time, it will be a lot easier on you. I encourage you all to attempt the Tint Brush and bowl method of application, once you practice with it you will learn that in the end it is not only easier, the haircolor saturates the strands of hair much better. Its important to use lots of color product on the
brush and to brush it into the hair on applying. I truly do not think that can be handled with a bottle the way it needs to be.
No one expects you to be "HELENA HAIR COLOR" right off the bat.
NO one, so neither should you.
Give yourself some practice I still think investing in a doll head and clamp is a worthy investment. I live alone and love it, so I never think of every other person out there who most likely lives with others...I guess you all could just sit your daughter, husband or dog down on the Sofa and ask that they let you practice on their hair. Trade them for something, most people love having their head played with, it relaxes them.
This is Part
1 of a 3 Part Series that will be completed this week . . .
Long Overdue Post which I do apologize to those of you that I have promised it to.
Alas, here it is.
In normal everyday Cosmo Schools they spend at least 4-5 months on this topic, at Sassoon, we spent about a month. That is how important it is and I know it and I invite you all to listen, learn and practice this. In preparation to Color, to Cut, to Perm, to Straighten, & to Blow Dry . . . the art of Preparation is about the most important step you will take in the entire process. Please don't discount it. I know so many like to crack open those bottles and pile on the color, while asking questions later. So many of you try that, only to come back to me with your tail between your legs and defeated. I honestly wish from the bottom of my heart that you could all avoid that step, which was the purpose of this site to begin with, so try to absorb this and at best . . . practice it a few times.
Hair Preparation includes Hair consultation which is what we tackle in the GROUP and in private settings on this web site. Consultation includes, what Level & Tone are you now and what Level & Tone do we want to be when we are finished, that we have covered in many posts to date.
Basic Tools for Hair Color. Within the Academy they give you an arms length list that you are required to purchase, as you cannot take the State Board Test without all of those tools. So many are outdated and still sit at the bottom of a Hair Case, so you will learn the ones you NEED & use constantly - the Bare Basics. We will cover preparation to haircolor & begin with the list of what I would suggest.
- Cutting Comb #11
- Tail Comb
- Paddle Brush
- Clips - Strong quality
- Water bottle
- Clean Touch - skin color remover
- Color Block
- Cape/ Old T-shirt
- Gloves - Latex
All of these products can be purchased at your local beauty supply or Target. I find a difference in quality, even in combs, I don't know if you will or not - your decision.
Cutting Comb: When I first got in this gig, I was shocked that people actually used combs. Seemed so archaic to me, then I learned they become your best friend. So cozy up and get a couple of these, the photo is a very typical one, and I always have 20 - 25 of these ready to go, 2-3 will be sufficient for you.
Tail Comb: This bugger is handy, for anything and everything (getting lettuce out of your teeth, even) Parting is its main mission and sectioning comes in second. Guess what so many of the older Stylists use it for ? my favorite. . . . highlights....NOT. Remember: highlights are history. Many many uses for this, get the best one you can. Maybe get one $5.00 and 1-2 for $
1.00. ?Paddle Brush: My favorite all around brush. At Sassoon we use an old England stand-by..Denman brushes. Another point of contention for me when I began this adventure. The paddle brush looks up-to-date, but you should see some of their others. They do look like they are out of the 19th century hair vaults, but one more time -- they rock. Their isn't a Denman brush I wouldn't use, and they are super reasonably priced. The paddle you see here is $12.00 , and they are everywhere, check their site. The 9-row is the best blow-drying brush around, although that does come along with the funny technique we teach...once I introduce it to you I imagine you will be a sucker for it as well.
Clips: they must be strong like mine, or you will spend more money on replacing them than the cheap ones are worth. About $6-8 for 6. A Must.
Clean Touch: I have a Matrix one at the moment as you can see by my dye remover, but CLEAN TOUCH can be had at Sally's and that was Sassoon's choice. This is a must, for everyone except straight blonde's. Obviously blonde will not stain the skin, but if you use anything darker than a Level 8 in your hair - or plan to, I would highly suggest the big bottle which will last a lifetime ( works on clothes, the carpeting) Always - Always clean up the hairline. Keeping the head and hairline neat & clean while in working-mode, needs to be a goal of yours. Neat workspace = Neat work. Take the extra minutes to clean up as you go.
Color Block: A very handy little tool that I use in a few different ways. One of our Killerstranders is in love with the product she uses it while dyeing her lace wigs. Its a rich thick cream that keeps hair color from 'creeping'. Works well with super tricky hair color tricks, as well as coating the hairline with it to keep the color off the skin. Yep, a double shot way of keeping that damn color OFF-THE SKIN. Block it and Clean Touch it. As a hi-brow Colorist, you never EVER want one drop of Color on a clients forehead...I just don't think it should be done. Try to incorporate my standards into your practice, on yourself.
PARTING
Sectioning and Parting must be mastered. Otherwise you will spend hours of time with piles of hair in the wrong place and things will not come out near as easy or as organized as you might have hoped.
Every time you get ready to do something to your hair, you must part & section it first, every single last time. The first thing you should do when getting ready to do anything INCLUDING BLOWDRYING, is to reach for that b and part & section the hair, period. this should be the end of your "where do I start"? questions.
For a quick trick to memorize:
NOSE TO NECK . . . . . . . . . . . EAR TO EAR
Use that tail comb, your good one and do this 20 times. I'M SERIOUS. The thing is, its easy to do when the hair is wet, but 90% of hair color is begun on dry hair. So practice getting that part straight on dry hair - which is not quite so easy -it is important to be able to master it and for it to be in the right spot. Directly in the middle of your nose and head all the way back to the top of your spine. (a good time to have those rear-view mirrors installed in your bathroom) unless you have achieved access to the ultimate tool and that is a hair color partner. This can be a fun event, I hear it all the time now. Remember we are the founding fathers of a brand new American hobby -- Hair Color. I say, why the Hell not?
Now check out the top of the head here, there should be a criss-cross exactly in the middle of the head. Don't disregard this process please...parting affects how the hair color is applied and if we want to begin a new hobby we might as well use the business model from the most successful and reputable Hair Academy in the world. They are fanatic parting practitioners, I used to get very fed up.
This parting will work for a basic hair cut, something else I want to go into, and any basic hair color application. You now have 4 quadrants, that need to be looked at as their own unique individual sections. Applying the color to each quadrant needs to be purposeful and quick. I believe if you look at just getting through 1 quadrant at a time, it will be a lot easier on you. I encourage you all to attempt the Tint Brush and bowl method of application, once you practice with it you will learn that in the end it is not only easier, the haircolor saturates the strands of hair much better. Its important to use lots of color product on the
brush and to brush it into the hair on applying. I truly do not think that can be handled with a bottle the way it needs to be.No one expects you to be "HELENA HAIR COLOR" right off the bat.
NO one, so neither should you.
Give yourself some practice I still think investing in a doll head and clamp is a worthy investment. I live alone and love it, so I never think of every other person out there who most likely lives with others...I guess you all could just sit your daughter, husband or dog down on the Sofa and ask that they let you practice on their hair. Trade them for something, most people love having their head played with, it relaxes them.
This is Part
1 of a 3 Part Series that will be completed this week . . .
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Tap That OverLap
Bleach Retouches Kill Hair If Not Properly Applied
Skipped right over this subject when I had quite a few of you want the goods on it.... so here we go
I am famous in the malibu world for my:
Top 10 Habits that Destroy & Damage Your Hair
Its not a 'good' famous. . . . its a 'get under your skin' famous
Why? Its silly really
the List is:
frank,
controversial,
to the point,
and most people do not want to admit that 'it' or 'I' am right
about what it says
It's one of those lists that puts a rain cloud over the sunny party, a sad face replaces a happy one...and I think the one that rattles the most cages is the very first habit, so right out of the gate I have most of the human race,pissed off & angry at me.
Its quite funny the emails - notices- and other correspondence I receive randomly when it hits a chord with someone
The 10 habits are in no particular order, they are all equally as bad for your hair...when you have a full clientele coming to you because of your advice, knowledge, & talent- I take the advice I dole out very seriously. Very . I have worked very hard to conquer the hair thinning and hair loss problem I have watched grow to ridiculous levels in the past 10 years. If something is not done soon "balding women" is going to be a very common term not a rare one.
The first damaging Habit? "Smoking Weed"
That is why it gets under everyone's skin
Everyone knows someone that smokes weed, in today's society...Weed is this generations "beer" or "cocktail"...... or relaxation after a hard days work..... and lets all face it-- it is a helluva lot less harmful to the world than its sister > "Alcohol" as I'm sure you would all agree. So putting it front and center on my list, was only done to get people to "pay attention" to the list. That's it. It is not the worst of the 10 habits, it just gets the most attention, which is what I wanted. The more people that pay attention to the list the more we will begin chipping away at the problem of female hair thinning/loss - one of my missions in life. I had no idea it would instigate so much flak from men -- by the way, I've only had men approach me on it (the List is really for women! - men have years of research on their hair loss issues - they have a pill (that works), a Laser comb, surgeries, Lotions, all OK by the FDA -- Women have ZIPPO/ nada / nothing! So I was trying to get the ball rolling for the female gender - that's all, no favorites promise! The issue of hair loss for women
and men are com
Top 10 Habits that Destroy & Damage Your Hair
Its not a 'good' famous. . . . its a 'get under your skin' famous
Why? Its silly really
the List is:
frank,
controversial,
to the point,
and most people do not want to admit that 'it' or 'I' am right
about what it says
It's one of those lists that puts a rain cloud over the sunny party, a sad face replaces a happy one...and I think the one that rattles the most cages is the very first habit, so right out of the gate I have most of the human race,pissed off & angry at me.
Its quite funny the emails - notices- and other correspondence I receive randomly when it hits a chord with someone
The 10 habits are in no particular order, they are all equally as bad for your hair...when you have a full clientele coming to you because of your advice, knowledge, & talent- I take the advice I dole out very seriously. Very . I have worked very hard to conquer the hair thinning and hair loss problem I have watched grow to ridiculous levels in the past 10 years. If something is not done soon "balding women" is going to be a very common term not a rare one.
The first damaging Habit? "Smoking Weed"
That is why it gets under everyone's skin
Everyone knows someone that smokes weed, in today's society...Weed is this generations "beer" or "cocktail"...... or relaxation after a hard days work..... and lets all face it-- it is a helluva lot less harmful to the world than its sister > "Alcohol" as I'm sure you would all agree. So putting it front and center on my list, was only done to get people to "pay attention" to the list. That's it. It is not the worst of the 10 habits, it just gets the most attention, which is what I wanted. The more people that pay attention to the list the more we will begin chipping away at the problem of female hair thinning/loss - one of my missions in life. I had no idea it would instigate so much flak from men -- by the way, I've only had men approach me on it (the List is really for women! - men have years of research on their hair loss issues - they have a pill (that works), a Laser comb, surgeries, Lotions, all OK by the FDA -- Women have ZIPPO/ nada / nothing! So I was trying to get the ball rolling for the female gender - that's all, no favorites promise! The issue of hair loss for women
and men are com
pletely different ball games -
with different causes & cures from each other...and need to be approached completely different. 
On this list in spot number 8 ..is "OVERLAPPING" with lightener.
with different causes & cures from each other...and need to be approached completely different. 
On this list in spot number 8 ..is "OVERLAPPING" with lightener.
Which is finally getting around to what this Post is about. Trying to teach you what overlapping is and how to prevent it. This one word is responsible for a lot of breakage on today's girls & its so very simple to prevent... but not if the Stylist was never taught it, nor understood it.
I was hoping if I taught it here, maybe just maybe I could prevent some of the mistakes that leave Salons every day...."from the Internet!! of all places. Your Stylist might not take to kindly to you telling her how to do it....but its your hair, and that should be the Number 1 most important fact. If you see her doing this, I would think very hard about NOT returning to that
Stylist....This is very
preventable as you will see. 
Very.
This
usually happens during a retouch 
on foils.
The technique's referred to a
a "weave" "highlight" or "foil" are popular in today's Salons...although the manner in which they are used has evolved and I am
hoping that many of the Salons will start tuning in to some of the more current web sites and consider updating their techniques. 
I was hoping if I taught it here, maybe just maybe I could prevent some of the mistakes that leave Salons every day...."from the Internet!! of all places. Your Stylist might not take to kindly to you telling her how to do it....but its your hair, and that should be the Number 1 most important fact. If you see her doing this, I would think very hard about NOT returning to that
Stylist....This is very
preventable as you will see. 
Very.
This
usually happens during a retouch 
on foils.The technique's referred to a
a "weave" "highlight" or "foil" are popular in today's Salons...although the manner in which they are used has evolved and I am
hoping that many of the Salons will start tuning in to some of the more current web sites and consider updating their techniques. 
To decipher these photos with this program is going to be impossible I have discovered Blogger is not really made to host photo's in the caliber that I have asked it to.....it tries....it really does...And does a pretty good job....but for me to organize these photo for you, is impossible I have discovered.
Therefore,
What I'd like you to do is know that the problem comes when a lazy or uneducated stylist applies lightener to the entire piece of hair you see sectioned off..... instead of stopping where the line of demarcation is....
> That is where "overlapping" ZAPS your hair...
instead of applying the lightener to just the "new growth" they slap it on that entire piece (over-lapping it on TOP of the already lightened piece)
See the Diagram here . . . . .
The proper method of touch-up is to apply just to the "dotted lines" not the solid lines....
But that is where the common mistake is made . . ..
Instead of just applying to the dotted lines, they slap the bleach on the entire piece of hair.......overlapping it on TOP of already bleached hair.
This is what happens with "highlights" and highlight re-touches...
What each of you should do is wait 4- 6 weeks before doing your roots. There is simply no way any of you will have the expertise to apply bleach to 1/4 inch of hair without making the mistake of overlapping - - -THEREFORE, you must all wait till about 5-6 weeks when you have a solid 1/2" of dark roots and are not in danger of overlapping.
That is not hard - nor does it look bad, Madonna has dark roots all the time. This is a very expensive process, that you have taken on yourself...the only part of that process that you must be super careful of, is NOT overlapping the bleach.
It can be very easily done , IF........"IF" you wait 4-6 weeks - before re-applying the bleach which should be LEvitation Bleach and 20 Volume unless you are a level 5 and below.
I would Never apply bleach twice to roots.
if you have this issue I want to email me, so I can clarify it to you. Killerstrands@gmail.com
What each of you should do is wait 4- 6 weeks before doing your roots. There is simply no way any of you will have the expertise to apply bleach to 1/4 inch of hair without making the mistake of overlapping - - -THEREFORE, you must all wait till about 5-6 weeks when you have a solid 1/2" of dark roots and are not in danger of overlapping.
That is not hard - nor does it look bad, Madonna has dark roots all the time. This is a very expensive process, that you have taken on yourself...the only part of that process that you must be super careful of, is NOT overlapping the bleach.
It can be very easily done , IF........"IF" you wait 4-6 weeks - before re-applying the bleach which should be LEvitation Bleach and 20 Volume unless you are a level 5 and below.
I would Never apply bleach twice to roots.
if you have this issue I want to email me, so I can clarify it to you. Killerstrands@gmail.com
Please see the Diagram as well.....
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