Showing posts with label Tools – Hair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tools – Hair. Show all posts

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Don't Ever Try To Write a 2 - Part Series

colorist7

New Basics Today - 20 Basics earlier This Week

which this stupid Windows Live Writer Program eliminated. . . . sorry . . . . This is the 2nd part of the 2 part 40 Statement POST.

I GIVE UP . . ..

Roll with Crib Colorist Artists; taking note of the next 20 Basics

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1. Always - ALWAYS run a test strand. Especially when trying out any of Killer Strands Ideas. Many think if you use public hair color( Sally's Beauty & the like) and imitate my techniques, the results will come out the same - nothing could be further from the truth. When I began this blog, I was also under that false impression - so I understand you thinking so. After many complaints - which led me to testing of the products -- I myself learned the difference between the 2. The difference is remarkable, therefore any Posts I have written in the first year of this Blog - need to be amended - all those suggestions: of using certain "public brands" need to be eliminated. Until I get time to do that all of that, please NOTE this recommendation.

2. When doing a 2 process color (bleach & tone), lift 1/iStock_000005979465Medium2 to 1 full level, lighter than your desired color to ensure desired results.

3. When you are lightening hair color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the underlying remaining pigment, which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

4. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair. Red and Yellow tones will dominate, because the first pigment to leave during lightening is blue.

hair

5. Fillers used on both depositing and high lifting. I "will" be going over this in detail - soon.

6. Never use HEAT with hair color, Stylists use heat to "buy time", I cannot think of one hair color whose directions require heat.

7. When choosing your next hair color, try not to rush into things, consider your lifestyle - consider your economic status - most importantly - consider your hair type & health. If really not sure, you can always purchase a HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, which basically costs you $15.00 for my help.

8. For the best results use premium Developer, with professional hair color comes a much higher quality developer.

9. Mix together small amounts of color at a time. Pro Hair Color has a "freshness" factor, once the developer & the tint are mixed together - the faster you get it applied, the better. Use enough product, but do not waste.

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10. Re-mixing is a better course to take than mixing all at once and having to throwing away excess. Hair Color to Professionals is the number 1 expense, so learning to work thrifty with it, is advantageous to them - I would think the same would affect everyone.

11. Permanent Tint is the most effective way to color hair.

12. Neat, small accurate applications make for successful coverage and contrary to what some might think, actually take less time + allow more control. 71434532

13. Precise parting & sectioning will help, when it comes to both application and coverage, so practice - practice - practice.

14. Extra peroxide or a 2:1 ratio increases lifting ability of any volume.

15. 80% of problems in Hair Color come from misjudging the base or existing level.1574R-26107

16. To make a missing Level ......... mix (roughly) 2 parts of the lighter level color with 1 part of the darker level. For example, say you need a Level 7 N......... in the cupboard you have a tube of 8N and 6N. Add ..............2 parts of 8N with 1 part of 6N = the result will be a perfect 7N.

17. Foil work is an art and should be treated as such. Precision work requires practice-practice -practice.

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18. Discard all mixed product not used.

19. Level 7, by the way, is the most difficult Level to get past, hence the difficulties with brassy colors.

20. There are 4 types of hair color: Temporary, Semi Permanent, Demi Permanent, Permanent Hair Color.

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Killer Chemist

Friday, August 29, 2008

HD HAIR ......... HIGH > DEFINITELY !

Higher, Bigger, Taller Hair is what's being shown on Chanel's Pre-Fall Collection and its Rockin'

hellforhair064
From girl-group bouffant's to New Wave Dye jobs, rock inspired hair is back -- in a big way. Yee-haw!  I see new wave influences, styles from the hospital when I was born (the 50's), those funny Japanese cartoons, Dolly Parton & Gwen Stefani in a weird-ola mix, its kind of all over the board: pleasing.
What happens in Hair & Fashion is they take it from the street & re-luxe it. When I was in Malibu everyday in the Salon... I saw many times the hair styles coming from the skaters and surfers that shot by our Salon every day...having many as clients that stemmed from both worlds was very inspiring.
Now, there is the fusion between music, clubs, movies, and fashion with people like Lily Allen, Gwen Stefani and yes before we found out
Amy Winehouse was doing exactly that...having to much wine -- delivered to her house!! we loved her hair and her style - I still believe she is what gave the beehive-teased-huge volume look its wonder-start. hellforhair065
Experimenting with your hair has long been the cheapest & quickest way to impress your friends and appall the parents. The tack its taking now is shocking only if one is prone to embarrassment at the very idea of both a 50's and 70's - hairdo replay. Its a turn away from everything being about money, which was making me very sick to my stomach...this change to simple - old fashioned - reasonable - hair styles, in my eyes is heart warming. Kind of like watching an episode of Mad Man - warm & fuzzy.
hellforhair066
Coming across a wonderful "find" to those of you looking for Volume, was todays bright light. Some are looking for the fashion> Va-Va Voom volume...some just for mini-everyday volume...here is your product.
hellforhair067
I don't care how much hair you have and how great you are at teasing . .  getting these huge volume hair styles they are showing everywhere from Kors ....to Kohls do not get that high without some covert help. In the frantic pace of hair shows we use to cut up various pieces of foam into all sorts of weird shapes and sizes . . . then spray them with floral paint, because we could get the colors of the hair we were tinting the hair to (to be hidden). It was easy to shove bobby pins into them but they shed, I cannot tell a lie and what a nightmare to produce, never knowing how thick or thin we needed them .
  • So a girl from Fresno.......
  • named Kelly..................
  • got inspired by Donny Deutsch's show (my inspiration for this Blog -->The Big Idea on CNBC)....................
  • took her idea, kept secret for a while, & "went for it".
hellforhair068






I  truly think she came up with a great idea. She calls them BUMPITS  -- Volumizing Inserts and the company's name is BIG HAPPIE HAIR! How fantastic ! 
The self gripping styling tools, which come in 2 sizes are inserted under a section of hair wherever height is desired -- no teasing required! Bumpits come in 4 shades --
  • light blonde
  • medium blonde
  • brunette
  • black
so that they blend in with all hair colors.
They have a 30 day guarantee and are a reasonable $19.99 for 4 BUMPITS
Having not seen them in my hands, I can only see a small portion ( her patent is pending) so don't really know how they are made, but being guaranteed for 30 days - you cannot really lose - can you? I would try them they sound great and she met with the proper people to have manufactured. Those of you that complain about your thin hair, I bet this might be your way to BIG HAPPIE HAIR!
Tell her I sent you - please!   
....something wonderful is about to happen to your hair . . Killer Chemist  KC     aka  Dakota
-               -                -                -               -               -               -        
OOOPS. .  after all of that I see they are on HSN so excuse me for being a lame brain . . with pictures ... a video everything. Here is what HSN says about them:
Bump up the volume in your hair using Big Happie Hair Bumpits. Our volumizing plastic hair inserts take your hair from flat to fabulous in seconds without the use of heavy creams or gels. Simply place the piece underneath hair at the crown of your head to instantly transform your look. Choose Light Blonde, Medium Blonde, Brunette or Black.
Big Happie Hair Bumpits Volumizing Hair Inserts Includes:
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  • Extra large Bumpit - 5"L x 1-1/2"H.
  • 2 Medium Bumpits - 4-1/2"L x 3/4"H.
  • 2 Mini Bumpits -1-3/4"L x 1/2"H.
  • Illustrated styling sheet.
Product Features:
  • Rigid design creates volume that won't fall.
  • 2 rows of self-gripping teeth at top and bottom for added stability.
  • Comfortable design stays put.
  • Lightweight and comfortable - you'll forget it's there.
  • Washes clean with soap and water - use again and again.
  • Use individually or together for a variety of looks.
  • Great for dramatic up-dos.
  • Made of easy-care plastic.
  • Made in USA.
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the 4 COLORS
Hop on over to HSN if you want to see the whole schpeel, they don't let you post their Video's. Let me know how they turn out, if any of you get them.
Wouldn't they have just gone banana's in the 60's & 70's for these?
Once again . . .
good night . . .KC

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Parting:Sectioning:Tools - Prepare to Color Yo Hair - Part #2

Captioned Slide Show -- to add to the the previous post, with additional photos - Enjoy







June 7, 2008
Scroll to bottom of page for brand new Slide Show :
Applying hair color to roots, 1 quadrant at a time

Monday, February 11, 2008

At Home With Color


Vibrant, Professional Hair Color is possible without visiting the Salon. Just follow these 10 Steps to ensure you get the results of your dreams ( and not your nightmares)


Prepare a "Color Cave", that you plan to use each month. Use old towels, old t-shirts & an old sheet for the floor. Hide anything and everything that's within dye splashing distance. Be sure to invest in a hands-free... rear-view mirror if you don't have help with back of hair. They have different models at local bed & bath stores, also wonderful for blowdrying and styling hands-free.




Begin with clean, dry hair that's free of styling product build-up - for super gunked up hair I have used a product by Malibu 2000 for many years called COLOR PREP, when doing hair color for big photo shoots or TV commericals we will begin the process with an application to have completely stripped down hair. The advantages?http://www.ecmode.com/content/Cn_Hair_Products.aspx#Actives



  • Gently yet effectively removes minerals from hair to ensure successful color results

  • Extends life of vibrant color to prevent fading or brassiness


Patch Test. There is a lot of controversy about this step... legally - it should be applied before every single color service, although if it was, you would lose 90% of your clients - therefore, what to do??? 24 hours before applying color and especially if you have any type of sensitivities / allergies to products - I highly suggest mixing up a super small batch of the product you'll be using to check for an adverse reaction. Smear a small amount behind the ear and covering it with a band aid for 24 hours, its only 1 little day. If any irritation occurs, wash it off ASAP and do NOT use...Yes, its rare - super rare ... but if you are the one .. it can save you some heartache.

Strand Test. The difference? One is on skin the other on hair. Big difference. For "strand" - apply a tiny batch of product to the hair in the back and underneath, using a foil to cover, for recommended time. Be sure to set TIMER, checking twice throughout developing process. The sun, products, and previous color can all affect your results and timing ... it will also give you an idea of the final result before you commit yourself.


Plenty of product. If hair is long or thick, have 2 tubes of color on hand you can always use the 2nd tube next time if you don't need it all. Saving a 1/2 tube is done all the time in professional color or remember tinting your eyebrows is always recommended by the top pros. Its no longer having the carpet match the drapes, its having the shutters match the drapes! Even more desired!

Barrier Cream application is mandatory around hairline, to prevent color-run and to soften the color hairline . Always applying the color up to & over the hairline for security. Using this cream prevents the dreaded skin stain which results from a clients very dry skin & new color application. Any super thick white cream, or the dreaded vaseline will work just fine for this.They have plenty of barrier's at your local beauty supply if you insist on buying something new for this ;)

Proper Tools make life easy and home coloring possible. Be sure to have at least 2-3 "tail" combs at all times for hair coloring. That and the # 11 comb for parting and distributing dye throughout the hair and scalp. Plenty of strong 3 inch clips (longer hair), foils, hand towels, tint bowls, tint brushes, Timer, measure cup, etc. All supplies are inexpensive and can be purchased for unbelievable prices at WIMEX Beauty http://www.wimexbeauty.com/








Never leave Tint on for longer than recommended time - that's not how it works, and it won't give you a richer, darker shade. The manufacturer's directions are on the "inside" of the box normally- they have tested their product and know it well - if you follow them exactly you will have the best results. Rinse in the manner it quotes, and 'when' you should, so make sure you have that timer visible from your Color Cave!


Always use the "after-Treatment" (Wella's IN DEPTH ) conditioner and pH balancer I speak about frequently, this step is out of my arsenal - I never thought I would reveal. Neither of my mentors practice it and I've always felt it was a true healthy hair gold mine of yours truly, the dear Killer Chemist. Since I revealed it - I fully expect you > to run out, buy it and USE IT !! by the way, its super cheap ( $4-$7)





ooooops, if you do have a mishap, Killer Chemist is a call away. Remember, if you've done all the homework - including read through and made notes of entire Blog, and were fully prepared - yes you can give me a call and I will get you through it. Everything is fixable. Everything.


Never met a head of hair i couldn't fix....

ever.............it may take a while, and cost a load, but I CAN fix it!!

Be sure you have read and followed my directions-advice and writings....I am finding what I call Color Cowboys, they decide,"yee haw" what the Hell, it can't be that hard.....and they just power through without reading a thing. OK, I take that back, they have read 1 or 2 posts and decided they have got it down. Where the rest of you have been good students - reading - asking questions, signed up to the Forum/Group.... then made your attempt at being a CC > Crib Colorist!...with wonderful success.

We have a couple disaster stories displayed yet I have received many more success stories than disasters - I didn't have the Forum going yet.


For everyone interested in discussing


  • hair color

  • hair health

  • hair education of products and their ingredients

  • hair styling & tools

  • hair growth ( women) 12 step miracle program

Please join the forum/Group that coincides with this Blog...of the same name: Killerstrands


http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/about

If you truly want color formula help - the best way is with photos, its very difficult without the advantage of sight and touch, that meant a helluva lot more to me than I ever realized -- until I started doing this.
They do not need to be photos of your face, i only need the hair and up close is the best...the first 2 girls have taken perfect photos for me to be able to decipher what they were talking about.
so very very much is lost in translation. The Photos save the day.









Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Your Hair is Dyeing For You To Become A Crib Colorist












Crib colorist? Home Hair Color can be one of the most satisfying and fulfilling projects you ever take on. There are many of you teetering on that fence. Ever baked a cake from scratch? You know... put every single ingredient in the bowl - - one by one - - mixing after each addition -- baked it and WOW it came out perfectly. The difference in the texture, the smell...dear Lordie the "taste"-- you had no idea the difference would be this remarkeable - and you created it.
Imagine that sensation : magnified 100 times - that's how you will feel after that first time you color your hair . . the CC Crib Colorist method - the proper way.
Its funny I am not finding most of you looking to do this because of the cost . . . I would say 7 out of 10 of you are taking this on because you cannot find a competent Hair Stylist.
Therefore this is being written for all of you for one reason or another want to color your hair at home. In your Crib. I’m going to try my damnedest to skip the bullshit & cut to the chase in this endeavor. Killerstrands #1 goal is and always will be the 'health of your hair' try to remember that is always the basis of my advice and teachings. That is the foundation of Sassoon Theory and Killerstrands Theory, a good one I think - how about you?
The reason for the CRIB COLORIST Program?
So many of you are having your hair destroyed, damaged, and turned ungodly shades of orange, yellow and green all because of boxed Hair Color Kits. You know the ones, from the grocery store, Target, Walmart. Where everything you could possibly need for drop dead gorgeous hair that Heather Locklear has, is magically in this one little tiny box and is sold at a discount store for $8.00. Yes, that is right where dear Heather runs to when she wants her hair colored. She sends her assistant to Walmart for a 'hair color boxed kit' Yeah, right.

In the level of hair coloring I was associated with (Malibu, TV/film, celeb, Hollywood) I was appalled that anyone would even think of using those boxed kits – I mean -- why can’t everyone spend $100. – $200.-$300.00 on their hair monthly? Well, as hard as that is to admit now, is exactly how I thought, and now am asking the world to except my apologies and regrets that I was like that. I can only learn from my mistakes, apologize, improve and try to get back to being a compassionate person. Hopefully with this effort I hope to make-up for that period in my life where I was not seeing clearly. In my previous environments I was not aware of the amount of people that must color their hair at home, for one reason or another. I now, fully understand and want to turn my thoughts, efforts and education to that segment of the Hair Universe. I am pretty much over-trained for it, but that makes it even better. I want to give all of the people that will listen the benefit of all my glorious knowledge. I have become ill, and this is about all I can handle to do - it will be good for me and excellent for you.

My beginnings and education:
There may be many different theories on hair color, I don’t know…I was taught by the best so I have never needed to look anywhere else. I attended Vidal Sassoon Academy for 1 full year, then stayed on to assist Lucie Doughty (my mentor) for the following year to hone my skills as a colorist, which was worth every single minute! She was kind enough to share many tricks and secrets many wouldn't do. England is the so-called “home” of hair color & hair for that matter…with Vidal Sassoon’s head colorist Annie Humphrey's being given the name the “Mother of All Hair Color” of the last 25 years that I know of. She has always set the “collections”…developed the “trends”…made up new and innovative coloring techniques that we as “pupils” (wink) would pick up -copy and spread throughout this country – she was a firecracker and damn what a talent. Everything I know and practice was passed down from her and I have worked directly under her on occasion.

So many of the techniques being done today, Annie was doing 10-15-20 years ago, now retired, she truly is and was the Grand Dame of all hair color I'm sure everyone would back me on that statement. By the way, she is the one that not only introduced me to using the LEVITATION BLEACH on the bleach & Tone process. She had a model to do one day and threw a fit until someone went and found her some Levitation. We were at the Sassoon Academy at the time and had shelves of other products, she just would not do the models hair until we had this particular Levitation Oil Bleach - at that point I hadn't heard of it - we used another brand in the academy. ( I had to drive all over Hell 6 stores it ended up being, finally tracked it down, so I was the hero for a day) I have never forgotten that + plus what I saw on that model was a lifelong learning experience...I too have never used anything else. If she believed in that product that much, I was going to as well. That was 16 years ago and she was 100% correct.

After her, I looked to Lucie Doughty the single most brilliant Colorist in this country (from the UK also) that has since moved over to Paul Mitchell and ( in my opinion) is the Queen today. I look to Lucie to run with the crown for the next decade or two and with the USA trying to catch up in the hair color race, the need to reach across the pond has diminished. What I teach on Killerstrands, is a combo of what I learned from Lucie and my own spin. So, although the education did not come from me: it is my interpretation and my slant on things after years on my own and with my personal artistic twist and input. Being extremely lucky in having some of the best teachers in the world -- I thank my lucky stars all the time.

This is my interpretation of a universal standard that hair color works; it is chemistry like cooking is. Certain ingredients perform certain actions… emulsifiers, ammonia's, peroxides…they need to be used to perform what they were made for. Certain products have no grey, its black and white…its science although in order to come up with various colors and new inventions we are taking new liberties all the time. The method I relay to you, is going to be as absolutely SIMPLE as possible. Any questions at all I hope you will bring up immediately in the "comments" section - Any comments section, it doesn't matter, I get an email right away when any comment is made anywhere on the site.. Asking the questions here will get you the fastest answer, plus it helps me by posing questions I guarantee you other readers are thinking.

To make it absolutely clear my goal for you as a certified CRIB COLORIST is : to STOP purchasing the boxed Kits of COLOR. They are not set up to work properly on your hair, and in my experience, have seen them damage and destroy hair time after time.






I make the professional color available to you if you'd like to purchase it from me through PAYPAL, making sure you understand the "Level System" and some
color theory. The main goal for you is to buy the items separately - where ever you get them from !

Its not that hard, and the only reason they don't push the separate TUBE ... and DEVELOPER method is , they don't think the public will take the time to learn this small system I am asking you to learn. The LEVEL system. Once you understand THAT . . .then you can figure out what tube of hair color and what Volume of developer you should use.
You are still purchasing the same "basic" ingredients, this way you will purchase the proper "volume" developer and "proper level of color & tone for only your hair" the difference that will happen in just making these few little changes will blow you away. You will learn what Level of hair color you can buy that will work and will not.

Not all hair colors work on all hair, there are many limitations I promise you - they don't tell you that one statement on those box kits. There are already many readers that have taken the time to learn the Level System and have written in with their stories, I will begin a section with them very soon. I promise its very simple - - - like learning to cook - the basics. Please go to our GROUP - there is a BEGINNING to COLOR Your Hair at Home section http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands


This is what you would purchase from Killerstrands to get started :


pH balancer ( it helps the condition & shine- promise)










bowl











brush











gloves come free with every order of hair color








Yes this is a broad statement...because every one's hair is very different but this one color process is the single most common hair color performed in the country so I chose that as an example. This is for that person that maybe is a dishwater blond and wants to be a yummy chocolate brown, so every month she has to touch up her roots with the brown tint and refresh the ends.

In order for you to understand which color you should buy when you go to the store you must learn some very simple basics. So please try to have an open mind, hair color manufacturers ‘think’ the consumer won’t take the time to learn the “Level System".
I disagree.
I feel with a little education, demonstrations and a great website it can be solved and all of you can have the knowledge to pick out your own tube of hair color the RIGHT ONE and the proper volume of developer not the one they think you need - hair color does not work that way. So when you color your hair, you don't have to go back and buy another color and cover it up.
HOW MANY OF YOU HAVE HAD TO DO THAT?
From this site alone I have heard of hundreds of women that have had to do that.
That way they are selling you 2 kits
That's not very nice now, is it?

I didn't realize it before I got out into the Salon world and the public. I worked in the Hollywood Glitz world styling with all the tricks of the Trade . . . they are 2 completely different worlds, and I can see why now, as a hair stylist a fairly good size of our business is fixing the disasters created by boxed color kits.We used to call them "job security". . . so why would we want to explain this to anyone?
I have only recently put the whole thing together because I am not working in the hustle & bustle of a Salon.

The Hair Color Manufacturers that make those boxed kits Set You Up To Fail - you either have to purchase 2 kits or send that customer to the Salon to get their hair fixed by a professional - that professional may use that same companies "professional" line of color even.

Either way they are getting you for 2 hair colors - when it only needs to be one.
I have read the back of those kits, I even bought a couple to see what in hell is wrong - after receiving so many complaints & finally having the time to research it..
I don't want to go into it all here - if anyone wants the specifics I have answered many questions on the subject over at YAHOO ANSWERS - under the hair category -" hair color kits ").

What I want you to start thinking about is ...the fix for this, is finally here.

Its already posted, I have been teaching it right along, so you need to begin the series and read pretty much the whole blog up to here. I know it seems like a lot. Sit back and enjoy - I teach a lot of things most every top hair stylist keeps secret...so I would ABSORB - ABSORB it all up if I were you.
Everyone I tell to do that - thanks me.
I try to make it interesting, you can ask questions whenever you want - I answer everything.

Lastly: my illness is terminal, I don't know how long I have left and what will become of this
when I am gone, I am trying to get everything down as quick as possible - I'd like everyone to be able to get the advantages. So I would start learning and reading if I were you. No other Stylist will give up what I have, I've said it before: Stylists are only as good as their trick and secrets.
Mine are here for the world to read and enjoy.

Monday, December 24, 2007

Tint Brushes for Coloring, Bleaching and Highlights

Shape of Things To HELP: Tint Brushes





These are "my" favorites and actually I even have a favorite BRAND! What a nerd, right?


Wella makes what I feel is the best brand of tint brush, although nearly impossible to locate, most of you will be happy as pie with any of the brands you find in the local beauty supply, so don't worry.
Applying bleach and colour with this type of brush makes life easy - safe and leak-free, so make the miniscule investment and purchase at least 4 of them for multi color applications which we all end up doing at some point.

Friday, September 28, 2007

BIONIC BLOND -- Toner Application




Bleach & Tone Process

Application of Toner



Shopping List

  • Towels
  • Tail Comb
  • Latex Gloves (small)
  • Clips
  • Cape or Old T-shirt
  • Plastic/Glass Bowl
  • Shampoo SLS-free
  • Peroxide - 10-20 Volume
  • After/Treatment Rinse {Wella IN DEPTH}
  • Cotton
  • Toner
  • Protective Cream
  • Tint Brush
  • Timer
Pre-lighten the hair to the "frozen butter" stage...ever seen frozen butter? Helluva lot different than room temp. butter...its very pale - frosty yellow/white, check your freezer....so you implant that color in the cells of your brain. That is the key to getting hair light enough, YET not too light, so as to do irreparable damage.That is one of the trickiest yet most crucial parts to nailing the proper bleached blond. Here's a couple photos. . . .to show you it is not white.



Preparation
  1. Prelighten to FROZEN BUTTER.
  2. Shampoo hair super lightly ( most likely this is already done), after-treatment conditioner, rinse, and towel-dry.
  3. Select the desired Toner Shade - check manufacturer's directions as to whether the hair is better dry or wet ?...they are ALL different.
  4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears.
  5. Perform a strand test, for allergies. ( I have to suggest this, its up to you)
  6. Toners are both --- sometimes non-oxidative (which means it does not use Developer - its used straight out of bottle or tube), some times oxidative, usually 10 -15 Volume is for Toners in the rare case. 20 volume. NO OTHER VOLUME. I can see a lot of you do not quite understand VOLUME'S. Remember 10 Volume - deposits color only. There is no lift ( lightening). 15 Volume is deposit only. The idea here is to deposit a very light OPAQUE ( think of Nylons or Opaque pantyhose in this case) "Tone" on top of the lightened hair. An Ice beige, a Platinum, Rosy beige, there are a zillion colors like this. If you cannot figure this out.... you cannot go wrong by using a Platinum toner. Platinum would be Gwen Stefani's hair, everyone loves Platinum.
Procedure





  1. Part the hair into 4 equal sections, using a tail comb or tint brush...you must be VERY gentle to the scalp it will be very tender (on some), avoid scratching it.


  2. Mix the Toner according to manufacturer's directions.



to be continued....

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Bleach For The Stars : Complete Directions of Professional Hair Bleaching

Be Blonde Before Breakfast




I apologize for the break last week, I hope to make up for it with some of this months posts.
This week ? Bleaching and Highlights !

Today? We will begin with my absolute favorite procedure on the planet;
BLEACHING VIRGIN HAIR or......BLEACH & TONE

Why do you think this would be my favorite procedure?



Two of the most important parts of this process

  1. the product you use

  2. following directions to the T


The reason for my success in hair had a lot to do with 'who' trained me, but also
....following directions to the T.
I don't skip over steps, I feel doing the steps perfectly and precisely is important, in chemistry it is important. If any of you cook or bake...I'm sure you have noticed the difference if you measured your ingredients or if you just guessed when making a specific recipe.... Cooking is chemistry as well. Same with Hair color, measuring and following the steps are important. I have already had some readers try to jump ahead and they have had disastrous results. I am here for any of you to ask questions. Even if you want to jump ahead.

Please,if you learn nothing else from me....learn that....to follow directions.

Hair color Chemistry needs to be precise, thorough and meticulous,read and re-read until you get very familiar.
Do not cut corners, hair color chemistry does not work well that way.
I even added some steps to many of the procedures once I began studying Chemistry and had 6-7 years under my belt finding ways to help the hair stay as healthy as possible. Dealing with Hollywood, I had many clients that wanted to color their hair frequently, so with that as the criteria...their hair needed to be in top condition as well as different colors all the time...so I had to master both.


I find a lot of hair stylists would rather work with "SPEED" being their goal,so they work in volume.
That is one way I suppose..but it does not work in my world. My biggest problem was time, you cannot be fast when you add steps to what already is a very time consuming process.


PREPARATION
For this process you will need OIL BLEACH.

Oil Bleach was a trick from a famous Vidal Sassoon Colourist from England, Annie Humphries…and after many years of doing hundreds of them myself I would never do it any other way. So begin by either purchasing > Redkens - Levitation Oil Bleach through the Killer Strands Store.

I sell 1 Kit of Levitation for $19.00 which includes 2 applications + gloves, Developer of your choice, tail comb, Oil Bleach, and 2 - In-Depth samples. A complete Bleaching kit for you!

Killerstrands@gmail.com and put PURCHASE OIL BLEACH in the subject header.

Oil Bleach is used to not only lighten hair but also to protect the scalp from the harshness of bleach .

But the added PLUS from OIL BLEACH is what people do not know....

By adding the oil to the process??? What have I taught you to use on your hair as a deep condi
tioner? or a "PRE"- conditioner???
OIL
...what type matters only a little.....there are some oils that are better than others....but OIL is wonderful for the condition of hair - period.
So once the cuticle is opened, the bleach goes in the hair strand and lightens the pigment/melanin that is in there...with Oil in the mixture, the oil goes in the hair strand as well...which conditions and strengthens the hair while it is lightening --- at the same time. Its an added bonus of the oil bleach.....use it whenever you can.....I have used it on the damaged hair of clients that insist on highlights even though I have told them their hair is too damaged for highlights........if hair is damaged you will protect it by using OIL BLEACH.


It angers me that so many of the companies have tried to push "oil-free" everything on the public, OIL is the best thing on the planet for your hair and your skin. That subject is a very long and passionate post by yours truly, that I will skip for now.
Just trust me, Oils are Lipids...there is nothing better for your hair than lipids.

READ this for Preparation for Bleaching hair:

{ In preparation to color hair of any type….it is said and required for everyone to perform a “strand test” on all hair coloring products. I would be doing a lousy job if I did not mention this. This means you are to mix a tiny amount of the product and apply it to a few strands of hair and to your skin underneath a Band-Aid type application, to see if you have any sort of reaction to it. In over 10,000 HEADS of hair and 15 years, I had 4 people react badly to the hair products and it was to bleach. If you are an allergic type person I would definitely not skip this step. If you are a total virgin to hair color, never had any hair color on your hair or skin. . . . I would also do this step.} By Law, I am required to tell you this and I feel you need to be made aware of it.


TOOLS NEEDED

  • Towels

  • Combs

  • Protective Gloves

  • Plastic clips

  • Cape (old Tshirt)

  • Plastic or Glass Bowl

  • Shampoo (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-FREE)

  • Peroxide 20 & 40 Volume

  • After Treatment - pH Balancer - Wella IN-DEPTH Treatment (KCC Store)

  • 4 OZ. measurer beaker

  • Cotton Rope ( by the yard)

  • Tint Brush

  • Oil Bleach Lightener .......Redken LEVITATION Oil Bleach
  • Blondor (Wella) - Creme Bleach - thru Killerstrands Store

  • Professional Powder Bleach ...if you plan on coloring hair regularly > buy yourself a tub - it will probably last you a year.
  • Contact me with your PayPal account Killerstrands@gmail.com
  • Timer

  • Protective Cream


Hair Terminology GLOSSARY #1

Color/Tint Remover > prepared commercial product designed to remove artificial pigment from hair (MOD-U-LAT now called Phantom Color Corrector)

Double Process > coloring technique requiring 2 separate procedures, in which the hair is prelightened with lightener, before the deposited color is applied (ex: bleach & tone)

Hair Lightening > chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called bleaching or decolorizing

High Lift Blonde > single process color with a higher degree of lightening action & minimum amount of color deposit

Single Process Hair Color >Oxidative tint Solution that lifts or lightens while also depositing color in one application
Toner > a pastel opaque color used to give hair a desired hue after pre-lightening

Virgin application > Natural hair that has not undergone any chemical or physical or physical abuse


Friday, August 3, 2007

Hair Color Toys. . . I Mean Tools

You will need everything displayed on this page to do Home Hair Coloring . . .The "bottle" method does not work with the consistency of the newer hair colors..but that's OK the newer colors are thicker and heavier which translates into richer bolder colors that last longer and are much more vivid.






foil : a small roll will be $4 or $5.00,
latex gloves - you can buy them single-y from behind the counter.
pro Large Hair Clips


Tint Brush
Timer - important
Measuring Cup for Peroxide - also important