About to turn into a Platinum Bombshell?

There are 2 excellent methods of application. Choose 1.

As Spring comes blossoming out of the sky, requests for blonde's and blonding come floating in the email "in" box. Most of the country. . ruffling their feathers from hibernating all winter . .begin thinking of warmth and brightness and sun. Many let their base (roots)  grow out much longer than at any other time throughout the year, but know.... its time to make that change, ever thought of going Stefani blond.... let the platinum begin.

This technique is referred to as double process, which is deceiving and inappropriate in my book, but I suppose I cannot re-write History. The 1st process would be the bleaching, the 2nd the Toner.  . . .Toning is not a "process" its an application. But there you have anyway.

Going Platinum Blond is a statement and a mission . .  I have seen meager timid guys go from mice to men and shy submissive women turn out as dominating. Its amazing what a hair color can do to a personality.

When mixing Levitation Oil Bleach ... (found in Killer Color Clinic) http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands .. it may not seem like it but it is crucial that you mix in the order described.  The powder and oil should connect first. . .  mix well  . .followed by the addition of the Developer. If I for some reason forget and  begin doing it the wrong way I will stop and start over. I have tried it before and the results were NOT the same - so please remember that. You want the bleach to apply in a nice silky manner so it does not drip . . . nor is too dry - - so the moisture needs to be perfect. Following directions to a T will give you that.

The usual method of application for a full bleach out is similar to the double application method for single process color. First apply 1 inch away from scalp, then, when the mid-shaft is nearly the desired stage of lightening, apply to the scalp area.

Now here is an alternative method  . . . which when going through my old notes from the Academy, I remembered. It was refreshing enough to read, and my next bleaching will be using this method.

First , apply the bleach. . .scalp to ends . . using the parting and sectioning I have pointed out in previous posts. When the scalp area is the desired stage of lightening . .rinse and shampoo. Dry the hair with a cool dryer. Now with this method you can see where exactly the hair needs its 2nd dose of bleach and you won't have any overlapping or over-bleaching of more vulnerable areas of the hair such as over-porous end or a fine hairline

There is no more meticulous application of product than that for on-the-scalp bleaching.  The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take fine sections with your TAIL COMB. ..thin enough to see through. With re-touches, you MUST be careful of overlapping - - and its easier to just lay a line of bleach at the scalp, the lay the next section against it, rather than smearing the bleach in with fingers.

If you are lifting past yellow be patient. . .GOLD IS ALWAYS the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow.

With double process is important. When you rinse the bleach - -  be gentle and very thorough.Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses the thick oil bleach . . .followed by a very gentle SLS-FREE Shampoo . .  another rinse and then the final smothering in Wella's "IN DEPTH". Which will completely stop any bleach from continuing to work, HOORAY!  Rinse well and towel dry the hair gently. Leaving in IN DEPTH for 30-45 minutes is always what I end up doing but it is totally optional.  In DEPTH is a porosity treatment and there is nothing better  for lightened hair than porosity treatment. I have found this glorious new on from Redken that I feel should be included in the Platinum process. If you feel you need it sooner than when I get it in the store, please email me Killerstrands@gmail.com  in the SUBJECT Header....put  " Platinum Porosity" . Thank you.

TONER TIME

Check your Toners Directions  most of them can be applied to damp hair or dry hair. Toners are many times an oxidative tint (need a developer) Many of the Professional hair color lines including Wella have enlisted specific colors on their chart to be made into Toners...although using a TONER made just for Toning, will have less ammonia, a lower pH, and in general will be gentler to both head and scalp. Toners only need a very low volume of developer. Purposes of toners are to conceal or beautify underlying warmth, depositing the desired hue and evening-out small defects in the bleach-out.

The lightest, most delicate toners call for a pale yellow stage of lightening. Lighten too little, leaving yellow still dominant in the hair, and the tone achieved will remain too yellowish. On the other hand, if the toner calls for a yellow stage of lightening and you over-lighten to pale yellow, there will not be enough underlying warmth in the hair to offset the artificial pigment and the hair will display too much of the toner's base color.

How the toner takes depends on the porosity of the hair . . . and guess what helps the porosity become even after all the up and downs of chemical services? ? ?  IN DEPTH . . .  that crazy inexpensive product that you may purchase in  KILLER  COLOR CLINIC  .

Killer Chemist

Pomade, Pins and Porosity

Porosity means the 'condition' of hair, interested now ?

Hair Porosity is the ability of the hair to retain & absorb moisture, determined by how raised or compact the cuticle layers are. Porosity is commonly referred to as the CONDITION of the hair, which affects a lot more than you think! The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer - when the cuticle layer is damaged that's when you feel your hair and think, "I must deep condition my hair, get a hair cut or a hair color . . . something is just not right."

Hair porosity is classified as:

• resistant : has a tight, compact cuticle layer that resists penetration. Chemical services performed on resistant hair require a more alkaline solution. A high pH raises the cuticle and permits uniform saturation and processing. . . therefore requiring a longer processing time . Cuticle -- Tight = Hair resistant therefore a Longer processing time.
• normal : is neither resistant nor overly porous. Color services performed on this type of hair will usually process as expected. Isn't "normal" wonderful sometimes!
• porous: Has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs color. Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require a less alkaline solution than those performed on resistant hair. A lower pH minimizes swelling and helps prevent excessive damage to the hair. Cuticle is lifted which makes the color take quickly AND Fade quickly.

Manufacturers write formulation recommendations with average, normal hair in mind -- that is, medium texture and normal porosity. For very coarse hair, very fine hair, resistant hair, or over-porous hair, adjustments are necessary which is a big chunk and the largest percentage of most of your hair out there . . .another of the points not taken into account with BOXED Color Kits, They don't ask, they don't explain and you can see by this Post it is a very important part of each individuals color formula. I solve this when we go through the HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, making that a better choice than just randomly throwing color on your hair. Its all about education here, that is my goal, I simply hope to get more of you involved.

Both the diameter of the hair strands(texture) and the condition of the cuticle (porosity) significantly affect hair color acceptance.

The Cuticle

Starting from the outside -- in on a hair strand . . .we first encounter the cuticle...which is the tough outer layer of the hair. The cuticle surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage. A strong compact cuticle layer makes for resistant hair, meaning that the hair resists penetration and is difficult to service.

Effect of Porosity on Hair Coloring

Resistant hair takes longer than average to soften and penetrate...therefore should be allowed the maximum timing when processing. Very-low developer volumes ( less than 15 to 20 Volume) won't soften it sufficiently. Super-duper resistant hair sometimes referred to as "tenacious" which is Gray sometimes requires pre-softening or pre-pigmentation.

Hair of normal porosity accepts and retains color normally. A slightly open cuticle allows chemicals in normally, and, once the coloring process is complete, closes enough to prevent dye molecules from escaping. Timing and formulation are normal for hair of normal porosity.

Porous hair sponges up color - it drinks it ---but it releases color quickly, too. It lets it IN and it lets it OUT. A highly raised cuticle is penetrated instantly (so timing is shorter) but it is not compact & intact enough to retain color molecules normally. Overporous hair tends to fade faster than the other 2 classes and may require 'filling' ( a subject I have yet to go into). High volume developers are generally unnecessary and can be quite detrimental on super overporous hair. If the color service is deposit only, a low or no-peroxide color is a gentle alternative (demi-permanent or semi-permanent products are great choices).

Overporous hair accepts dyes differently than that of normal porosity. The more overporous the hair, the more selective its acceptance of permanent hair color (oxidative dyes). With permanent haircoloring, overporous hair tends to reject warm artificial pigment ( red & gold) and accept ash (cool & drab) pigment.

The problem with many client's hair is: there may be multi-porous hair along one strand, more than one porosities along one strand, YYYepp! What solves that? Equalizing the porosity of the entire head of hair prior to coloring makes huge difference, I am such a promoter of this idea that I carry many products in the store to combat the problem. I am finding many hair stylists don't under stand the concept either. (about 1/4 to 1/3 of our members are licensed Cosmetologists!) I write this to accommodate you the CRIB COLORIST, I want you to be as educated as I was, if you choose to do so. Here are a few of the porosity equalizing products I carry in the Killer Color Clinic hl=enhttp://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/web?hl=en

• In Depth by WELLA
• Malibu 2000 Treatment Packs - Color Prep package
• Malibu 2000 Shampoos
• Spray Porosity Equalizer (its on its way for the Killer Color Clinic) which I use on my clients, helpful with blonding especially.
• Thriven : leaving this on overnight as directed, would be the closest product to regaining some of your original porosity.

Keep this in mind about porosity: it lasts forever. Once the cuticle is lifted, there is no returning it to it virginal / compact state. Any porosity you create will remain forever, until the hair is cut off and GONE ! Another reason to keep your haircuts regular!

Although normal porosity cannot be restored once lost, treatments such as the Malibu 2000 Treatment Packs that only sell for $3.50 in the store, are of great value, along with the Gold Standard for Hair Conditioning : THRIVEN. Both the entire Malibu 2000 line and my Killer Strands Line of products is dedicated to the porosity of the hair, as you can see its not an easy concept to explain OR understand . . .so I am hoping with this post, I have made it a little more clear at least and expressed the importance of porosity with your hair.

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/thriven

Killer Chemist

At Home With Color

Vibrant, Professional Hair Color is possible without visiting the Salon. Just follow these 10 Steps to ensure you get the results of your dreams ( and not your nightmares)

Prepare a "Color Cave", that you plan to use each month. Use old towels, old t-shirts & an old sheet for the floor. Hide anything and everything that's within dye splashing distance. Be sure to invest in a hands-free... rear-view mirror if you don't have help with back of hair. They have different models at local bed & bath stores, also wonderful for blowdrying and styling hands-free.

Begin with clean, dry hair that's free of styling product build-up - for super gunked up hair I have used a product by Malibu 2000 for many years called COLOR PREP, when doing hair color for big photo shoots or TV commericals we will begin the process with an application to have completely stripped down hair. The advantages?http://www.ecmode.com/content/Cn_Hair_Products.aspx#Actives

• Gently yet effectively removes minerals from hair to ensure successful color results


• Extends life of vibrant color to prevent fading or brassiness

Patch Test. There is a lot of controversy about this step... legally - it should be applied before every single color service, although if it was, you would lose 90% of your clients - therefore, what to do??? 24 hours before applying color and especially if you have any type of sensitivities / allergies to products - I highly suggest mixing up a super small batch of the product you'll be using to check for an adverse reaction. Smear a small amount behind the ear and covering it with a band aid for 24 hours, its only 1 little day. If any irritation occurs, wash it off ASAP and do NOT use...Yes, its rare - super rare ... but if you are the one .. it can save you some heartache.

Strand Test. The difference? One is on skin the other on hair. Big difference. For "strand" - apply a tiny batch of product to the hair in the back and underneath, using a foil to cover, for recommended time. Be sure to set TIMER, checking twice throughout developing process. The sun, products, and previous color can all affect your results and timing ... it will also give you an idea of the final result before you commit yourself.

Plenty of product. If hair is long or thick, have 2 tubes of color on hand you can always use the 2nd tube next time if you don't need it all. Saving a 1/2 tube is done all the time in professional color or remember tinting your eyebrows is always recommended by the top pros. Its no longer having the carpet match the drapes, its having the shutters match the drapes! Even more desired!

Barrier Cream application is mandatory around hairline, to prevent color-run and to soften the color hairline . Always applying the color up to & over the hairline for security. Using this cream prevents the dreaded skin stain which results from a clients very dry skin & new color application. Any super thick white cream, or the dreaded vaseline will work just fine for this.They have plenty of barrier's at your local beauty supply if you insist on buying something new for this ;)

Proper Tools make life easy and home coloring possible. Be sure to have at least 2-3 "tail" combs at all times for hair coloring. That and the # 11 comb for parting and distributing dye throughout the hair and scalp. Plenty of strong 3 inch clips (longer hair), foils, hand towels, tint bowls, tint brushes, Timer, measure cup, etc. All supplies are inexpensive and can be purchased for unbelievable prices at WIMEX Beauty http://www.wimexbeauty.com/

Never leave Tint on for longer than recommended time - that's not how it works, and it won't give you a richer, darker shade. The manufacturer's directions are on the "inside" of the box normally- they have tested their product and know it well - if you follow them exactly you will have the best results. Rinse in the manner it quotes, and 'when' you should, so make sure you have that timer visible from your Color Cave!

Always use the "after-Treatment" (Wella's IN DEPTH ) conditioner and pH balancer I speak about frequently, this step is out of my arsenal - I never thought I would reveal. Neither of my mentors practice it and I've always felt it was a true healthy hair gold mine of yours truly, the dear Killer Chemist. Since I revealed it - I fully expect you > to run out, buy it and USE IT !! by the way, its super cheap ( $4-$7)

ooooops, if you do have a mishap, Killer Chemist is a call away. Remember, if you've done all the homework - including read through and made notes of entire Blog, and were fully prepared - yes you can give me a call and I will get you through it. Everything is fixable. Everything.

Never met a head of hair i couldn't fix....

ever.............it may take a while, and cost a load, but I CAN fix it!!

Be sure you have read and followed my directions-advice and writings....I am finding what I call Color Cowboys, they decide,"yee haw" what the Hell, it can't be that hard.....and they just power through without reading a thing. OK, I take that back, they have read 1 or 2 posts and decided they have got it down. Where the rest of you have been good students - reading - asking questions, signed up to the Forum/Group.... then made your attempt at being a CC > Crib Colorist!...with wonderful success.

We have a couple disaster stories displayed yet I have received many more success stories than disasters - I didn't have the Forum going yet.

For everyone interested in discussing

• hair color


• hair health


• hair education of products and their ingredients


• hair styling & tools


• hair growth ( women) 12 step miracle program

Please join the forum/Group that coincides with this Blog...of the same name: Killerstrands

http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/about

If you truly want color formula help - the best way is with photos, its very difficult without the advantage of sight and touch, that meant a helluva lot more to me than I ever realized -- until I started doing this.

They do not need to be photos of your face, i only need the hair and up close is the best...the first 2 girls have taken perfect photos for me to be able to decipher what they were talking about.

so very very much is lost in translation. The Photos save the day.

Bleach For The Stars (cont)

Part 3 (final) of the ONLINE Directions :

"HOW-TO-BLEACH-YOUR-HAIR : White

(not yellow) Leaving Hair In Excellent Condition

Quest for Platinum (part 3)

11.)Determine from a color chart or as best you can 15 minutes before the time is done, you are looking for a pastel yellow-white....the one major problem made by people bleaching hair is... that it is yellow. What does being yellow indicate? .... they have taken the bleach off too early... or that it was put on once....and not put on again. Many times...let me say, most times, the bleach needs to be applied twice. If the client has very light hair to begin with, Level 7 is the breaking point, a Level 8 would be darkest you can be to get away with one bleach is a pretty good guess.

Remember the porosity, the texture of the hair have a lot to do with how fast hair lightens...so it will be different all the time. You need to understand that person A with Level 8 VIRGIN Hair and person B with Level 8 VIRGIN hair can both have completely different lift speeds. Person A has straight, very porous fine - level 8 hair...while Person B has straight - non porous - coarse level 8 hair.....with my experience I will guess that person A will be light enough when all is said and done and person B will need an extra 30 to 60 minutes.

Just know that when hair is wet with this product on it....it will never look totally white,EVER...so do not look for totally white, what it looks like is a pale yellow-white, when it is dry it turns to white. Why do you not want it to be totally white? It will be over done....the product will be on too long creating too much damage. I do not mean to sound confusing, I mean to try to teach you everything I know through words, I want you to understand this process through reading words as much as possible.

12.)About 15 minutes before you think it will be finished, remove the cotton from the scalp area. Apply the lightener to the hair near the scalp with the 1/8-1/4" partings, very very quickly...(figure 16-54). If at this point you are running out of bleach prepare a fresh batch - at this point I would make up a batch of regular bleach - using 40 volume developer, to help speed things up.You have all the hair covered in the oil bleach so the oil is on all of your strands in order to protect it. The cuticle opens and lets the OIL IN....which helps the condition and controls the damage to the hair. If you just have some spots or stubborn areas put the 40 volume bleach on them and work it in with your fingers, rubbing it into the hair strands briskly and hard with your fingers..

Process and perform your strand test until the entire shaft has reached the desired stage of pale yellow/white.

13.)Rinse the hair thoroughly with tepid water. Shampoo gently with a Sodium Lauryl Sulfate--FREE shampoo.

14.) Apply "After-Treatment" of choice for a minimum of 5 minutes to get the pH back to normal.{Remember Wella's "In-Depth" is only $4.00 at Sally's and is an EXCELLENT Deep conditioner + an "after-treatment" as well}....this little step is one of those tricks that I added that makes a huge difference in this process, many discard it...don't! You want the best tricks? Use them. You will see why in the condition of your hair.

The idea is to perform only the necessary steps,in a Salon setting you are in a massive hurry,in my days in Salons,there was never enough time for people that wanted their hair done, ever...yet doing this step was one I would never axe. Only the necessary ones are on here I promise you.

Re- condition with the best conditioner you have for a couple minutes.

15.) Towel Dry the hair....under a cool dryer.....find out which way your toner needs the hair its about 50-50 1/2 the toners want your hair damp the other 1/2 want it dry.... if dry....be sure to dry very very gently and on a lo-warm temp. treat the hair with care its just gone through Hell and back.

16.) Examine scalp for any abrasions (See Figure 16-55)Analyze the condition of the hair. Proceed with toner application.

{ as a warning the color of this is too yellow (Fig.16-55), I would apply bleach one complete more time for how this looks.... it is in the yellow stage..... and needs to be AT LEAST in the yellow/white stage - - - see the DeColorization chart I posted... the lightest says "pale Yellow"...I cal it Yellow/White...because it is ...Yellow White }

the Decolorization chart shows what stages the hair goes through as it loses its color with bleach on it. As a Colorist we are trained to use the word "lightener" in front of clients...talking to each other we say "bleach" that's what it is and its easier

when bleaching the first few times....Click on it and Print it out....save for reference..

At this point you are completely done with the Bleaching process....your hair will feel kind of funny.....it will smell kind of funny...I LOVE IT ! ! ! .oh and why do I like this procedure better than any other in the world of hair???? Did you figure it out?

Its because it is the single procedure that changes the hair the most....at times going from black to white...especially when applying to hispanics or Asians. Also when it is done like this....with a gorgeous icy beige toner...there is nothing more beautiful. You will see once you do this.. You basically are changing hair from 'black' to 'white'....the more change I can do,the more I feel like a true artist within the world of hair. The very first bleach I did was to an Asian girl from Pepperdine College, she had come to Sassoon to get her hair done for free.... we had her for 8 hours,that was the penalty for "free hair" 16 years ago. I can't believe I can still remember that she was an Advertising Student so she was an ARTIST herself.....she let me put a 2 inch band (surrounding her entire hairline) of PURE White Hair so she had a GORGEOUS white frame around her face and then I took her Level 2 darkest brown hair and made it Level 1 > black-blue...so it was the complete opposite ends of the spectrum...as my VERY FIRST bleach. I cannot believe my mentor ( Lucie Doughty) had me do that first, but as she used to say, " it IS only hair". She had this great attitude toward hair which took me about 10 years to acquire, I had always held my hair dear to my heart....but as I matured and as I had quite a few severe tragedies happen in life...it finally hit me.....it TRULY is . . . . . . .ONLY Hair! Its the one object on the body that WILL grow back....!

Now find your Toner...this is as important as the bleach. You never want to leave it Un-toned that is like making a birthday cake and not frosting it. You can eat the cake and I suppose some would consider it done, but my Lord how much better is it WITH the Frosting!!

ITS THE BEST PART, just like the frosting is!

(Toners are tomorrow)

**** Just a note...I have gone through and added a few very important points to both posts that I both forgot and changed my mind on, so be sure to re-read them...if you have gone through the headache of reading all this. Sorry its so long, I wanted to cover everything....and I know I will still have questions.....

PLEASE >ASK ALL THE QUESTIONS YOU WANT....I WANT TO SEE IF I HAVE MADE THIS CLEAR ! ! ! ! and what I might have forgotten or what you do not understand.... I want you all to fully understand it.....PLEASe . . . ASK, ANYTHING ON YOUR MIND.

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A DUMB "QUESTION"

Coming in a day or so will be the Numbered thorough Directions to.......Bleaching Previously Treated Hair Blonde:White Blonde.

Colour AFTER -TREATMENT Process

Colour After-Treatment Process

Throughout these posts you may find my views different from the norm, that would stem from specializing in 3 fields instead of one. More often than not I eliminate useless steps and tasks purely developed for tacking on a few extra bucks to a bill or invoice. That just was never me. I work on the theory: the better the job I do, the more people will flock to me, it has worked well in life for me.

No sooner said....I am asking you to add a step to your regimen you most likely have never heard of. I would be surprised if many stylists use this step routinely it adds 'time constraints' to an already overcrowded day usually, it is just as important as a neutralizer is with a perm, in my opinion....basically its the same thing.

This is something every person with $150 - $250. highlights should be aware of. Choose your words carefully when trying to find out if your stylist does the step. Be nice!

An after-treatment is absolutely necessary for oxidative hair colour treatment ( any colour with peroxide). Only with these after-treatments can residues of hydrogen peroxide, alkali or perusulphate ( bleach) be removed. When you put your hair through the colouring process you are shaking up the pH level. After a colour, perm, straightening or any chemical process is complete the hair goes into a type of 'mini-shock' and the single best way to 'un-shock' and restore & relax your hair to its original pH level is to apply one of these after-treatment's for 10-20-30 minutes.

Its really very simple after your last rinse you apply the product to hair, comb thru, leave on: 10-20-30 minutes and rinse. That's it, you're ready to go and your hair is one happy damn camper!

Effects of an after-treatment:
Removes hydrogen peroxide, alkali, and peroxide residues.
Closes the cuticle layer and give the hair shine
Stabilises colour for longer durability of the colour
Protects from creeping oxidation
Makes the hair easier to comb

The trick here is using the right product..it must have the correct ingredients to accomplish the process. There are hundreds of lines of colour...Matrix, Redken, Clairol, Framesi, Goldwell, Renbow each one makes an after-treatment product. Its just not one of those "glitzy" packages or marketing wonders that drown our universe. But a very necessary part of the process for healthy hair. I think the world of Wella's and have used it for years, the price is super reasonable as well.

Those of you that do your hair at home can apply the process as well. There are thousands of Sally Beauty Supply's and as awkward as it is for me to use them, its the most convenient store to refer to when dealing with people outside my area. They have many similar products made specifically in the lower price ranges...I have found some absolute gems there for condtioning hair. A big secret to all hair types?? The "ethnic" hair care section, some of the best hair restructurizers and conditioners on the market. They use organic shea & mango butters and luxurious carrier oils in their formulations which is the epitome of fine ingredient selection, with rock bottom pricing you cannot beat it. Killer Strands is located in the heart of L.A. so we have access to many wonderful sources. I'd like this site to work for everyone, across the country.

At Sally's you can purchase an after-treatment by Wella, called "IN -DEPTH", one of the best kept secrets on the hair planet! I would highly advise getting a couple jugs and using frequently if your hair is damaged, or even dry... last I checked it was under $5.00! and is a whopping 16 oz! This is an excellent After-Treatment, it deals with the pH level better than anything I have found.

Remember, having your hair at the proper pH level (slightly acidic - 4.5 to 5.5) produces shiny-healthy-happy hair.