Summer Hair Care for Olympian Locks: Beijing's & the USA's

How Water & Its minerals can affect your Hair + the 1st Step To Perfect Hair Color

As a former professional athlete the Olympics are the most incredible Television they could plant in front of me, I'm in heaven. What about Olympic hair that must go through so much...watching the swimmers & divers hit me, its time I give my southern California advice on water logged hair solutions. Spending time with the Malibu water polo team and helping their hair routine 8 years ago - gives me a bit of history with the subject. Water Polo is huge in all the local schools its such great exercise for kids. But the hair must be taken care of, healthy happy shiny hair is still a goal of most every kid once they hit about 13. This way the kids can still color their hair, I never think a sport should curtail your regular life and vice versa. Hair color is possible but the condition of the hair when you are in and out of chlorinated pools, diving - swimming - Jacuzzi's - water parks must be watched. Your hair takes a beating and in particular your hair color. My protocol works perfectly, if you follow it exactly. Sitting watching the Games I made a list of every water activity I could think of to see if this was warranted...

That's a lot of people doing a whole lot of water related activities all hell on hair, so here we go ... then we'll get back to "Highlights are History"- promise

Most of the people in the United States are using well water or hard water and that is only in your house, can you imagine what the water is like that is used in public places. It gives me the shivers.

All public water locations should have a water treatment service taking care of the water and running pH and other tests to keep the water at the right levels. I am told that blond hair should not even turn green if the levels are correct, if hair is turning green it means the levels of copper in the pool are too high. It may be that the water is too acidic (low pH) and that this is coming from the corroding fittings of the heater, so the solution is simple. Alternatively you may be over-using algaecide's that are copper-based, so never knowing this before, I've always reverted to Malibu 2000 and other tricks. Lets look at our water and what it can cause and create.

Over 85% of the population in the U.S., according to the Water Quality Association, are bathing with hard water. While hard water is fine for drinking, it can cause many problems for your hair, scalp and skin.

These problems include:

• Hair feels dry
• Hair is resistant to color
• Dandruff or eczema of the scalp
• Dry, flaky skin
• Thinning hair
• Colors fading too quickly
• Discoloration or darkening of hair
• Hair lacks body and shine

HOW YOUR WATER AFFECTS YOUR HAIR

The water you use to wash your hair, scalp, and skin comes from one of two sources:

• Ground Water
• Surface Water

Ground Water

If your water comes from the ground, it is either from your own well or from the local treatment plant that derives the water from wells pumping water from the ground. The source of ground water is from rain passing through aquifers, which are layers of minerals. The acidity (pH below 7) of the rain increases the dissolving effect of minerals. These dissolved solids are found in the water when pumped above the ground and used to bathe.

Surface Water

If your water comes from the treatment plant which derives the water from a surface source, the water is coming from either a river or a lake. Surface water usually contains less minerals because the water has not filtered down through the mineral layers. However, increasing populations are polluting the water causing additional bacteria growth. As a result, the treatment plants must add more chlorine to kill bacteria and then add lime (a calcium compound) to help control the chlorine levels.

Water hardness is determined by the level of calcium that is in the water either found naturally from the ground or put into the water by the treatment plant.

While calcium is the element that determines hardness of water, there are many other elements in the water that effect the texture, volume, shine, control and health of hair.

What are the minerals that effect hair?

• Calcium
• Iron
• Copper
• Magnesium
• Silica
• Lead

What other elements effect hair?

• Chlorine -a harsh oxidizer added to the water to kill bacteria also adversely effects hair.

How do minerals and chlorine attach to the hair?

Our hair, scalp and skin have an electrical charge and that charge is negative. Minerals and oxidizers are charged positive. When a positively charged mineral comes in contact with our hair, scalp, or skin, it attaches on like a magnet.

How do hard water minerals and chlorine effect hair?

Calcium - If your source for water is a well, then more than likely you have calcium in your water. If your source for water is coming from a treatment plant, calcium may have been added to your water. Calcium is the mineral that determines hardness of water.

How calcium effects hair:

• Calcium leaves the hair feeling dry and weighted down. It can even cause a perm to appear relaxed.
• Calcium builds up on the scalp causing flaking of the scalp, giving the appearance of dandruff.
• Calcium can choke the hair at the mouth of the follicle causing the hair to break off, then coating the scalp, blocking further new hair growth.

Iron - Iron is found in ground water from domestic wells and wells used by treatment plants as the source for local water.

How iron effects hair:

• Iron leaves the hair feeling dry, brittle and weighted down.
• Iron can cause dark hair to tint darker and blonde hair to turn orange, sometimes I think this is many readers problem.
• Iron can color from properly processing.

Copper - Copper originates in water in three ways:

1. It comes from the ground and is pumped into the water from a well.
2. Particles of copper can come from copper piping. The corrosion caused by hard water lifts the copper particles off the pipes and deposits them into the water.
3. Copper sulfates are added to swimming pools to control the growth of algae. Copper is often added to lakes (that are a source of drinking water) in the summer to kill algae.

How copper effects hair:

• Copper discolors hair causing blonde hair to turn green and dark hair to tint darker - the reason for that Green!
• Copper can weigh hair down and cause dryness.
• Copper can inhibit the proper processing of color and relaxers.

Magnesium - Usually found wherever calcium comes naturally from the ground, magnesium is abundant in the soil and is very much a part of the mineral complex associated with hard water.

How magnesium effects hair:

• Magnesium causes hair to feel dry.
• Magnesium causes hair to appear weighted down.
• Magnesium can inhibit the proper processing of color and relaxers.
• Magnesium causes hair to lack shine.

Silica - Silica is a sand-like substance found in desert or volcanic areas. It is usually bound to calcium or magnesium and forms very hard, virtually insoluble deposits.

How silica effects hair:

Silica causes many of the same effects on the hair as calcium.

• Silica causes hair to feel dry.
• Silica weighs hair down.
• Silica can cause dandruff-like symptoms of flaking.
• Build up of silica can choke the hair follicle causing hair to fall out.

Lead - Lead acetate is used in certain home remedy gray hair cover-ups - like Grecian Formula or JUST FOR MEN. They used lead to make the color work which screws up your hair for everything else. I believe they got sued and are in the process of changing those boxed kits.

How lead effects hair:

• Lead can cause the hair to feel dry.
• Lead can prevent the proper processing of perms, color, and relaxers.

Chlorine - unlike the other elements listed above, chlorine is not a mineral but an oxidizer. Chlorine is put into drinking water and swimming pools to kill bacteria. In addition to the following effects chlorine has on hair, due to it's oxidizing effects, chlorine also oxidizes minerals onto the hair causing worse effects of those minerals.

How chlorine effects hair:

• Active chlorine in the hair can cause hair to feel gummy when wet and straw-like when dry.
• Chlorine can damage the cuticle and proteins of the hair.
• As an oxidizer, chlorine can cause the air and sun to oxidize hair and worsen the conditions listed above.
• Chlorine can cause hair to feel dry.
• Chlorine can cause hair to become brittle.
• Chlorine can cause hair to lack shine.

Chlorine will be on of the highest ingredients in public water as they are trying to prevent bacteria and infection. So getting that off of your hair immediately is very important.

2008 OLYMPIAN Water Repair YO Hair Trick

What I had my water polo players do for Hair

<> works at the Gold Medal Level ! :

• while dry, wet hair with bottled water(or similar-not pool)
• apply a handful of hair conditioner, we used KeraCare's Humecto daily conditioner -- a 5 lb. tub is available and it works Xcellent- have the coach buy one for the team to use
• apply rubber swim cap - tuck in hair
• when finished, have large bottle of "SODA WATER" available(carbonated) pour & rinse thru hair - stops chlorine from doing any damage
• take Shower immediately, shampoo with Malibu 2000 Well Water or Swimmers Shampoo - Sulfate-free all of them
• Use THRIVEN 1-2 times per week

With this Solution, you will have NO hair damage

Water Polo Players are treacherous on their hair, they are in the pool all the time so its a great gage for anyone below their level of chlorinated water time.

Now this works for general hair protection in water sports.

++ TREATMENT FOR WATER ALTERED HAIR

If you feel the water in your home has built up on your hair, something we do before coloring Celeb's hair is apply different water treatment packs. Which I am happy to make available to you. The problem with having them done in a Salon for you and me? The cost and the time, it adds at least another hour to your time in the Salon and anywhere from $30 to $80.

Making these available to you at home, I will sell the individual treatments to you for $3.50 plus they can be put in a regular mailing envelope so the shipping can be $1.50 for 1 treatment. That is pretty incredible. I will list the various treatments and tell you they are super SIMPLE to apply... just time consuming - perfect for at home application. If you are applying your hair color ( which I hope ) apply the treatment the night before, then get up and color your hair > Perfect Plan! Wait till you see how much better your hair color comes out if you pre-treat your hair - its a treat and yes its worth the time and effort. Try it once, its a small investment.

COLOR PREPARE -1st STEP TO PERFECT HAIR COLOR

What It Is:

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for hair prior to every color service in the salon, at home or when traveling to assure predictable and successful color results.

What It Does:

• Prepares hair for superior color
• Gently yet effectively removes minerals from hair that inhibit proper processing of color
• Extends life of vibrant color to prevent fading
• Helps prevent brassiness or discoloration
• Accelerates processing time of color
• Protects scalp from itching or burning caused by oxidizing chemicals

Blondes Weekly Brightener

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for blonde and highlighted hair to be used in the salon, at home or when traveling to brighten and increase shine/ vibrancy while helping to prevent damage from environmental elements in the air and water.

What It Does:

• Immediately brightens blonde and highlighted hair
• Removes & prevents hard water mineral build-up that can dull blonde & highlighted hair
• Immediately restores vibrant color and radiant shine
• Improves flow and movement of hair
• Prevents dry-feeling hair

SWIMMERS SOLUTION - AFTER SWIM TREATMENT

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hand forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for swimmers to be used in the salon, at home or at the pool after swimming to remove and prevent all the elements from pool, spa or ocean water that can otherwise damage and discolor hair.

What It Does:

• Immediately removes chlorine and mineral build-up from swimmers’ hair to help restore health and wellness to hair and scalp
• Removes chlorine and bromine that can otherwise oxidize and dry hair
• Helps prevent brittle, damaged hair
• Removes copper build-up to lift green discoloration
• Restores vibrancy to hair color
• Dramatically improves look and feel of hair
• Helps reduce itching and scalp irritation

HARD WATER DE-MINERALIZER

What It Is:

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for hair shampooed in hard water or exposed to water softeners that use salt and/or phosphates. May be used in the salon, at home or when traveling to lift surface minerals and oxidizers, remove discoloration, brighten and increase shine/vibrancy while helping to prevent damage from environmental elements in the air and water.

What It Does:

• Removes all hard water minerals that can discolor or damage hair
• Eliminates brassiness
• Normalizes hair texture
• Revitalizes shine and manageability
• Restores flow and movement of hair
• Prevents dry-feeling hair

Features & Benefits:

• Safely restores natural color
• Makes hair feel lighter after removing hard water minerals
• Formulated with a patented, nature-identical Vitamin C Complex
• Food-grade, wellness ingredients
• Preservative-Free, Fragrance-Free, Sulfate-Free

Please State when you are taken to PAY PAL which of the treatments you would Like, Thank You

Shower Up With New Strands of Hair : Step 4 of 10,000 HEADS

Water
& the Shower Filter
...its affect on your hair

Step 4 Shower Water Filter

Water is extremely important within the 10,000 HEADS System; it is the subject of 2 steps because of the time it spends ‘on’ and ‘in’ your body and scalp. The water used on your hair when you shampoo and rinse is extremely important and alters both the length of your hair color and the overall condition and health of your hair. Any process or product that results in damage to the hair strand and hair follicle needs to be analyzed and re-evaluatede as we continue our quest for Killer Strands.

This step is also made on the assumption that your tap water is as pathetic as it is in this area, if you have wonderful water–count your blessings, and you may also skip this step. For the remainder of you, it is the chlorine, most likely that you taste, chlorine is used to disinfect water, but at certain levels is not safe for drinking, showering or bathing. That water is as bad for your hair strands as it is for your taste buds.

The chlorine that is in today’s water is at dangerous levels within the bathroom, when you take a hot shower the chlorine vaporizes in the air, combines with other organic compounds in the air and forms chloroform gas, which is a strong irritant to the lungs and causes fatigue. Besides the lungs the chlorine wrecks havoc on the hair and it appears as dried out, frazzled and depleted, it is one of the worst types of damage and very difficult to recover from. Young water polo players and swimmers come through the clinic, and with the chlorine levels in competitive swimming pools super high, the damage in these 16, 17, 18 year olds hair comes very close to some of the worst we’ve seen, it is almost the same as oxidation from peroxide burning where you will also see a lot of breakage and splitting. (If you have someone experiencing this problem please email the clinic killerstrands@gmail.com for the proper treatment suggestion, we have this solved with a fairly easy protocol).

To solve this problem of lousy water there are 3 levels of solutions, which depend on the amount of money you can spend and the type of living arrangement you have.

MALIBU 2000 WELL WATER SHAMPOO: Cheapest, easiest and works for traveling…a good clarifying shampoo. Now this can be tricky and the only brand that I have ever found (the Head Colorist at Vidal Sassoon turned me on to) is MALIBU2000. They have a number of different shampoos and protein packs, the one you want is the shampoo that says “WELL WATER ACTION shampoo” Sulfate-free. They have done the impossible, created a gentle for your color/ hair follicle shampoo that cleanses the chlorine and other grime out of the water so it is not sitting on the hair, day in and day out. This works when you cannot afford the shower filter, but our number 1 choice for this step is the:

SHOWER WATER FILTER: There are dozens of them out there, and everyone claims to be better than the next. The plan is to get a list of “KILLER – Shower Filters”, to help distinguish the good from the bad. The Aquasana brand seems to be the one many of you end up with, I would say you are safe with that one. Use www.AllergyBuyersClub.com for a nice selection and good service. Keep track of when you bought the filter and buy enough filters for the year (great gift idea for someone to get you). You save $$ if you buy filters when you purchase the shower head, but it is imperative to change the filter when recommended or it becomes useless. Another advantage to the filter: helps with the pH balance of your hair; imperative for soft, shiny hair.

WHOLE-HOUSE SYSTEMS: There are even more companies that do this than the other 2 combined. The issue regarding the chlorine in the water and the chloroform bomb the hot water creates has become well known, as it is dangerous for asthmatics and bothersome to those with lung problems, so the water industry has grown a lot in the last 10 years to help take care of the demand. Call 4 or 5 water treatment companies in your area, with Kenmore(Sears) being one of them, get estimates and tell them you are looking for water that will be as nice as Reverse Osmosis treated water and your concerns with your hair. Pick one and let us know how they do so we can start up a list of, “KILLER – water treatment companies”.

Using either of the last 2 methods will do wonders for your skin and the shower stall as well. Having that change in the water will give you softer, smoother skin and will keep your shower stall much cleaner so the purchase actually solves 3 problems, not bad for a single purchase.

The BIG Shampoo Review - - Understanding Shampoo -- pH scale

I never know where to start - - again its the whole "chicken and egg" predicament.

But am going to start on the pH scale as I feel it is so very important to understand in relation to shampoo and hair care products in general .

Potential Hydrogen (pH)

Understanding what pH is and how is affects the skin and hair is essential to understanding most of the services that you get in a Salon or that you perform on your own noggin. This will be a brief overview of pH and how it works so then I will go right into pH and shampoos. I'm using a couple textbooks to help me with this, as much as I understand it, I tried writing my own post on the subject and ended up trashing it, my version was so confusing, I gave it to my neighbor to read and he had the most confused look on his face. So we will go with this and see how it works. Its not necessary to fully understand pH, but I would like you to at least have an idea what it is for future reference.

Having the proper pH shampoo makes ALL the difference in the world, as far as tangling and the hairs condition at the end of the shampoo. Many of you have complained about a particular shampoo that is Sulfate-free - thinking the sulfate-free is the cause, which couldn't be farther from the truth. The cause of very tangle-y hair prior to shampooing is:............ improper pH ! the solution? A different shampoo, I'm afraid, is the only answer to that problem.

Water and pH

First we need to understand a bit about ions. An ion is an atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge. Ionization is the separating of a substance into ions. These ions have opposite electrical charges... An ion with a negative electrical charge is an anion and an ion with a positive electrical charge is a cation. Now Ions are at the base of that T3 Dryer that is such a big hit now which I will go into on a different post.

In pure water, some of the water molecules naturally ionize into hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions. The pH scale measures those ions. The hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic..the hydroxide ion (OH) is alkaline. pH is only possible because of this ionization of water. Only aqueous solutions have pH, Non-aqueous solutions (oil and alcohol) do not have pH . . . without water there is no pH.

In pure water, every water molecule that ionizes produces one hydrogen ion and one hydroxide ion. Pure water is neutral because it contains the same number of hydrogen ions as hydroxide ions, meaning it is neither acidic nor alkaline. Pure water is 50 percent acidic and 50 % alkaline.

The pH Scale

The terms "parts hydrogen" or "potential hydrogen" are used to describe pH. In fact, the term pH originates from the French term pouvoir hydrogene , or hydrogen power" and means the relative degree of acidity and alkalinity of a substance. Notice that pH is written with a small p and a capital H ( which represents the hydrogen ion, H+) the symbol pH represents the quantity of hydrogen ions.

The pH values are arranged on a scale ranging from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 indicates a neutral solution, a pH below 7 indicates an acidic solution and a pH above 7 indicates an alkaline solution.

The pH scale is a logarithmic scale. this means that in a pH scale, a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH. A pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7...a change of 2 whole numbers indicates a change of 10 times 10 or a one hundredfold change. A pH of 9 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 7.

Pure water, with a pH of 7, is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 5. Since the average pH of hair and skin is 5, pure water is 100 times more alkaline than your hair and skin, even though it has a neutral pH.

Pure water can cause the hair to swell by as much as 20 percent.

pH and Shampoo

Understanding pH levels will help you select the proper shampoo for yourself . Remember, the amount of hydrogen in a solution, determines whether it is more alkaline or acid, is measured on a pH scale that has a range from 0 to 14. A shampoo that is more acid can have a pH rating from 0 to 6.9 , , , a shampoo that is more alkaline can have a pH rating from 7.1 to 14. The higher the pH rating ( more alkaline), the stronger and harsher the shampoo is to the hair. A high pH shampoo can leave the hair dry and brittle. Now why shampoo's don't have pH ratings on them instead of all the other words and BS I will never know, this is the one true scientific - tried and true method of knowing if the shampoo is going to work correctly- there are also some others.

The Chemistry of Shampoos

To determine which shampoo will leave your hair in the best condition, I must explain some of the chemical ingredients regularly found in shampoos. Most shampoo's share many ingredients in common. It is often the small differences in formulation that make one shampoo better than another for a particular hair texture or condition.

Water is the main ingredient in all shampoos and commonly is added at the rate of 30-40% of the formula.

Generally it is not just plain water, but purified or deionized ( ions removed) water. Water is usually the first ingredient listed, which indicates that the shampoo contains more water than anything else. From there on, ingredients are listed in descending order, according to the percentage of each ingredient in the shampoo or formula. This is how it is 'supposed' to be done but I would guess 8 times out of 10 it is not. Regulating hundreds of thousands of beauty products would require every single agency of the government shutting down and helping the FDA, it is virtually impossible.

Surfactants

The second ingredient that most shampoos have in common is the primary surfactant or base detergent. These 2 terms, surfactant and detergent mean the same thing: cleansing or "surface active" agent.

A surfactant molecule has two ends" a hydrophilic or water-attracting "head" and a lipophilic or oil-attracting "tail". During the shampoo process, the hydrophilic head attracts water, and the lipophilic tail attracts OIL. this creates a push-pull process that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair ( see the photos).

Other ingredients are added to the base surfactants to create a wide variety of shampoo formulas. Moisturizers, oils, proteins, preservatives, foam enhancer's and perfumes are all standard components of shampoos.

OOPMAHS .... OOPMAHS ! One of the most thorough Segments on the subject

That's SHAMPOO backwards, because we are going to turn the subject upside down and inside out

The first step of the 10,000 heads system is Shampoo, formerly it was Nutrition, and is chosen by which subject is asked about the most of the 10. So for the next 6 months its Shampoo. I would like to conquer and explain shampoo to you, the readers, in as detailed a method as possible, without 'losing your interest'. So we will brush on pH & its importance, explain the role of surfactants, try to explain all the various categories and finally thoroughly discuss the whole SLS and Sulfate controversy along with my ideas on the subjects. I will end with the most extensive sulfate-free shampoo list I can possibly come up with. Sound good? I hope so

Hair Anatomy

This is something I should have discussed a long time ago, but hey, who knew I would still be going. I'm also going to wrench it up a notch with this discussion and start going into a bit more of the scientific angle, I am finding a lot of you are interested in the more technical talk and the more specific answers - so this will be my first attempt at a new level of explanation. Please feel free to leave comments at the end as to how you like or disliked it. Its the only way for me to learn.

Hair is composed of protein that grows of cells originating within the hair follicle. This is where the hair shaft begins. As soon as these living cells form, they begin their journey upward through the hair follicle. They mature in a process called keratinization. As these newly formed cells mature, they fill up with a fibrous protein called keratin, then move upward, lose their nucleus and die. You will see many products use that buzz word - Keratin. I have performed many experiments with pure Keratin, and truly did not notice any difference when it is added to hair conditioner products. The only way the market at the moment sells Keratin is in an aqueous state, the hair loves and adores anything OIL-BASED. I found some oil-based Keratin from New Zealand that I played around for a few months and had much better luck, the problem ended up being if I wanted to use it in a product, it would cost me a fortune to get it delivered from New Zealand, so I had to scratch that idea.

By the time the hair shaft emerges from the scalp, the cells of the hair are completely keratinized and are no longer living. The hair shaft that emerges from the scalp is a nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein. Hair is a cylinder of impacted keratinized cells, I have included a simplified model of a single hair shaft (photo) and other various close-ups for you to refer to for the discussion of shampoo & hair care products. A cross section of the hair shaft shows you the 3 major structures of a fully mature and keratinized hair. The central-most layer is the medulla, the next layer is the cortex and the outer layer is the cuticle.

MEDULLA - this section of the hair contains melanin granules and is present only in very thick terminal hair - generally only thick coarse hair contains a medulla( all male beard hair contains one) its quite common for very fine and blond hair to entirely lack a medulla. The least important as far as hair care.

CORTEX - a fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment, about 90% of weight comes from the cortex. The elasticity and the hairs natural color begin here. Most of the changes to the hair shaft - such as those related to permanent color (oxidative coloring), semi permanent, chemical straightening, curling hair, permanent waving all occur in the cortex of the hair, the major component of the hair shaft. The cortex consists of elongated cells containing monofilament rich in cystine, this composition gives hair its great tensile strength.

CUTICLE - the integrity of the hair shaft is maintained by the cuticle. The cuticle consists of flattened cells along the hair shaft arranged like shingles on a roof. The overlapping is extremely tight, preventing damage to the underlying cortex. This is the part of the hair I refer to the most, I hope you can remember these scales, they are important in many references I will make over time. When the cuticle is INTACT, the scales are SMOOTH, reflect light, and provide a shiny, healthy look to the hair! A healthy intact cuticle is the hair's primary defense against damage and this is the layer that really takes the most abuse. Lets just say > your cuticle hates your flat iron!

Hair is approximately 91 percent protein. 91% ! ! ! ! Now when I stress, when we get to the NUTRITION section soon, that PROTEIN -- PROTEIN -- PROTEIN must be burned into the back of your brain every time you go to eat, you can now see a hint of "why". The protein is made up of long chains of amino acids, which in turn are made up of elements. the elements that make up human hair are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur. These five elements are also the major elements found in skin and nails (remember > I find so many similarities in skin and hair - my basis for how THRIVEN was conceived) are often referred to as the COHNS elements. Table 8-1 shows the % of each element in normal hair.

                                                                                              

The amino acids, the units of structure in protein, are linked together end to end like Mardi Gras beads. the chemical bond that joins amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond . A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds is called a polypeptide chain. Polypeptide chains intertwine around each other in a spiral shape called a helix.

The 4 most important hair characteristics that affect its function and appearance are density, elasticity, porosity and texture. Which is an entire Department or D-E-P-T its initials.

DENSITY : measures the number of individual hair strands on one square inch (2.5 cm-Andre!). It indicates how many hairs there are on a persons head. Hair density can be classified as low, medium, or high ( or thin, medium, or thick-dense). Hair density is different from hair texture in that different individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities. Some individuals may have coarse hair texture ( each hair has a large diameter), but low hair density ( a low number of hairs on the head). Others may have fine hair texture (each hair has a small diameter) but high hair density ( a high number of hairs on the head). Hope that isn't too confusing, this is an important fact for those of you working with me on hair color consultations. The more info like this that you can break down and explain to me the more "right-on" we will get with your own personal hair color formulation. So if you have any questions on this be sure to ask at the bottom in the "COMMENTS" section, lets clear it up once and for all.

The average hair density is about 2,200 hairs per square inch. Hair with high density ( thick or dense hair) has more hairs per square inch. The average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hair strands. the number of hairs on the head generally varies with the color of hair. Blondes usually has the highest density and redheads ( boo-hoo) have the lowest.

POROSITY: If only I could stress the importance of this characteristic, I would be able to access some of your hair so much easier. Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration. Porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs water.

Hair with low porosity is considered resistant (see photo) . Chemical services performed on hair with low porosity require a more alkaline solution than those on hair with high porosity. Alkaline solutions raise the cuticle and permit uniform saturation and processing.

Hair with average porosity is considered normal (see photo) . Chemical services performed on this type of hair will usually process as expected, according to texture, which is why if I know this about your hair I can gauge more accurately your outcome, so I encourage all of you to figure each of these characteristics out about your own hair, its good information to have for life, I feel.

Hair with high porosity is considered overly porous and is the results of previous over processing (see photo).Over porous hair is damaged, dry, fragile and brittle. Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require less alkaline solutions with a lower pH. This will help over processing.(Yes, I realize we need to go into the whole entire pH story, which we will very very soon - it is hard to decide whether to start with the chicken or the egg in explaining this - its ALL necessary).

The Texture of the hair is not an indication of its porosity. Different degrees of porosity can be found in all hair textures. Although coarse hair normally has a low porosity and is resistant to chemical services, coarse hair can also have high porosity as the result of previous chemical services.

Here is a nifty trick . . you can check porosity on dry hair by taking a strand of several hairs from 4 different areas of the head ( the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape). Hold the strand securely with one hand while sliding the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the end to the scalp. If the hair feels smooth and the cuticle is compact, dense and hard, it is considered resistant. If you can feel a slight roughness, it is considered porous. If the hair feels rough, dry or breaks it is considered overly porous.

HAIR ELASTICITY Is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Hair Elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair's individual fibers in place. Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50% of its original length and return to that length without breaking. Hair with normal elasticity holds the curl from wet sets and permanent waves without excessive relaxing.

Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily. Hair with low elasticity may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, thermal styling ( curling irons ) or perms. Hair with low elasticity is the result of weak side bonds that usually result from over processing. Chemical services performed on hair with low elasticity require a milder solution with a lower pH, that solution minimizes damage and helps prevent additional over processing.

Check elasticity on wet hair by taking an individual strand from four different areas of the head ( the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape). Hold a single strand of wet hair securely and try to pull it apart ( see photo - elasticity). If the hair stretches and returns to its original shape without breaking, it has normal elasticity. If the hair breaks easily or fails to return to it original length then it has low elasticity.

HAIR TEXTURE is the thickness of diameter of the individual hair strand. Hair texture can be be classified as coarse, medium, or fine and differs from individual to individual (see all photos). Hair can also vary from strand to strand on the same person's head! It is not uncommon for hair from different areas of the head to have different textures. Hair from the nape (back of the neck), crown, temples, and front hairline of the same person may all have different textures - just to confuse matters even more.

Coarse hair texture has the largest diameter. It is stronger than fine hair, for the same reason that a thick rope is stronger than a thin rope. Coarse hair also has a stronger structure. It usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to that processing. It is usually more difficult for hair lighteners, hair colors, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers to penetrate coarse hair, so that is why this subject is relevant in the overall scheme of hair .

Medium hair texture is the most common and it is the standard to which other hair is compared. Medium hair is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.

Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from chemical services than coarse or medium hair. Finer hair is hair that one should choose the least amount of time for chemical services possible, as a safeguard. With bleach you will be leaving it on quite a bit less than coarse hair. See why these characteristics are so very very important ? If you figure them out about your hair you can take them into account when coloring your hair the first time and therefore you can avoid any disasters from happening.

Hair Texture can be determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers. Take an individual strand from 4 different areas of the head -- the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape -- and hold the strand securely with one hand while feeling it with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. With a little practice you will be able to to feel the difference between coarse, medium and fine hair diameters.

These 4 major characteristics of the hair shaft, Density, Elasticity, Porosity & Texture (dept.) -- will affect the overall permeability of hair to chemicals.

Texture and Porosity are judged together in determining the processing time. Although porosity is more significant, texture is also important. Fine hair, having a small diameter, will become saturated with wave lotion more than hair with a large diameter if both are equally porous. Coarse hair that is very porous, however will process faster than fine hair that is not porous. The hair texture will also contribute to its elasticity. The stronger the hair shaft, the greater its elasticity.

Whew! that was a mouthful and a page full but its something I have wanted to get said. So I am glad it finally is. This is just the beginning of how the hair structure pertains to shampoos and hair care products, which is all forth coming so just hang on - I hope you will like this series, lots of facts - lots of science .... KC

MAGMA - Break Through Hair Lightener For Dark Hair

Wella's New 'Colored Bleach' Proves A New Process Has Arrived and is here to stay





The single most prolific hair color on planet earth?







Level 1 Black







The problems encountered for hair color consumers for the largest color segment (Level 1 thru 5) on planet earth, remain a constant struggle for hair color manufacturers. I will admit I do not encounter a lot of that segment in my own personal practice, I'm in southern calif and it just isn't my demographic, which doesn't mean I am not interested -- nor concerned, I am.







One of the main problems encountered by these dark beauties, especially for you home hair colorists, is LIFT. Lightening that dark of hair is a challenge - for a Pro for a Crib Colorist for the Chemists. Therefore, the discovery and success of Wella's newest gold mine, MAGMA is a happy rewarding discovery.

Wella's definition: "Ultra Lifting Powder Color"

cut-to-the-chase > Colored Bleach > in layman's terms.



Even for the Pros they don't like using the word "bleach" in any relation to hair color - one of those damn "word phobias" again. The difference from your everyday on and off scalp bleaches? It truly IS colored looking at it, and it truly does lighten the hair and tone it at the same time. Too good to be true, was my first comment. The downside of course? the price. Yep, its about 10 times as expensive as one of the regular powder lighteners we all use, which brings me to tears almost.



FYI the most popular and successful lightener/bleach for 6 years running within the professional segment?

BLONDOR, powder bleach from Wella.



My favorite? Blonder - Cream Lightener.



BLONDOR Lightening Cream contains extracts of chamomille making it especially gentle to the hair and scalp. Using a Cream over a powder when the choices are available is a must. This cream lightener has moisture-retaining lipids, so when I combine that with the new Redken 40 Volume Developer, I am getting every single moisture retainer within the world of hair color.



BLONDOR Lightening System is an ammonia-free highlighting system that combines the condition and shine technology of Koleston Perfect with the lightening precision of BLONDOR for perfect blonde results every time.

Maximum predictability with Auto-Control technology



• Up to 5 levels of lift on natural and color-treated hair (with controlled heat & 40 volume developer).

• Creamy consistency

• Gentle, ammonia-free system protects as it lightens, when I want more lift I add what's called a Blonding Booster available through Wella's Color Perfect Line, which is basically a tube of ammonia.

• Pleasant fragrance



Little side track there, oooops.



Back to the wonder product MAGMA.



Magma Ultra Lifting Powder Color, formulated with patented Oxyresistan Technology achieves a quantum leap in off-scalp highlighting. It is now possible to lighten and color very dark, natural and previously color-treated hair in one step. You know how I harp on color not lifting color, well this tackles that nightmare. Magma Ultra Lifting Powder Color provides maximum lift of up to five levels and unlimited creative choices from cool blondes to brilliant reds in one fast and easy process.



I think the most impressive part of the MAGMA system (to me), is that it comes with a pH balancer and is a mandatory-part-of-the-system. Exactly like the "after-treatment" procedure I try to cram down all of your throats, you know the one with that IN DEPTH product !?!? If you are as focused on the health of your hair as much as I am then pH balancing is a trick you cannot live without. At the end of the development time, rinse thoroughly (keeping color away from scalp if using reds) lightly shampoo. To lock-in color, apply the specially formulated MAGMA Color Complete Pure Shine Sealer, process 5 minutes, rinse and style. You have no idea how "advanced" this one step is, so I completely admire the company for taking the risk. Its part of the reason the cost is so high - you have to buy 2 complete products, so I guess if you look at it that way...you are not having to use IN DEPTH and it makes a little more sense.



The power of lightening within Magma Ultra Lifting Powder Color comes from a combination of natural, organic components forged into a highly unique and very specialized powder. These compounds have been blended to their ultimate efficiency to deliver unparalleled lightening on the darkest levels of natural melanin and color-treated hair alike.



Magma's unique Oxyresistan Technology is a breakthrough in dye chemistry achieved with dyes that have never before been used in any haircolor products, which now means every other company will be in a race to learn this technology. A true first: brilliant and vibrant color combined with up to ( they say six, I say five) levels of lightening on natural and color-treated hair. These are direct acid or pre-colored, micro-dispensing dyes that do not react to oxidation. This means they are visible in the powder of Magma. And, though exposed to the oxygen mixture of the lightening action, they will not be consumed or change color. The color effect of Magma is permanent. The brilliant nature of these dyes also means they must be kept away from the skin to prevent staining. So it is not to be applied on-the-scalp.



FEATURES What Does it Have?

























ADVANTAGES What Can it Do?

• 
  
  Up to 6 levels of lift - I say 5


• Lightens black/darkest brown to medium blonde natural


• Oxyresistan Technology


• Magma offers an industry first with exclusive, unique direct acid dyes that are able to deposit brilliant color as it lightens up to 6 levels in ONE STEP


• 10 inter mixable shades


• Allows for more choice and creativity


• 20- to 30-minute process with a heat source


• Cuts highlight/toning time in half


• Swatch book represents the color result


• Choosing color is easy and predictable
  
  

There are 5 Reds, that are so bright & rich on top of that they fade very little, I still get shocked with the results

I realize the price is crazy, but if you are coloring your own hair, you already saving a tremendous amount of money.



All 11 colors are available to you, the Color charts are downloaded in the Killerstrands GROUP, so hop on over there for the choices. The blondes are all cool and I love all of them... There is only one color I never use and that is the yellow-gold, I just could never find a place for it. the colors are all intermixable and its easier, for the layman as you are looking at the color it becomes...where in Tints you are not.

One of my little secrets for a gorgeous Rose-Beige, is 1 Tablespoon of /36 Gold Violet and a sprinkle of /44 Red Intensive ( the tiniest bit) an incredible Rose colored bleach....are you kidding me? It rocks and it lasts that color for a super long time, better than any toner I have ever used.

I guess you do get what you pay for.





Pricing

MAGMA Ultra lifting Powder : $45.00



MAGMA Color Complete: $20.00

To order Killerstrands now offers 2 methods and is working on more refinement.

#1) send email to Killerstrands@gmail.com with "Product Order" in the subject heading - we use PAY PAL for a secure & safe system

OR

PURCHASE MAGMA

ONLINE - now

THROUGH NEW SYSTEM

E JUNKIE.com - integrated into this blog



Secure / Safe / Quick





WELLA Magma Ultra Lifting Powder Color

+ After color Treatment - Magma Color Complete

Color:



/36 Violet Gold /39 Gold Cendre Light /39+ Gold Cendre Dark /89 Pearl Cendre Light /89+ Pearl Cendre Dark /07 Natural Brown /34 Gold Red /44 Red Intensive /47 Red Brown /56 Mahoghany Violet /57 Mahoghany Brown

At Home With Color

Vibrant, Professional Hair Color is possible without visiting the Salon. Just follow these 10 Steps to ensure you get the results of your dreams ( and not your nightmares)

Prepare a "Color Cave", that you plan to use each month. Use old towels, old t-shirts & an old sheet for the floor. Hide anything and everything that's within dye splashing distance. Be sure to invest in a hands-free... rear-view mirror if you don't have help with back of hair. They have different models at local bed & bath stores, also wonderful for blowdrying and styling hands-free.

Begin with clean, dry hair that's free of styling product build-up - for super gunked up hair I have used a product by Malibu 2000 for many years called COLOR PREP, when doing hair color for big photo shoots or TV commericals we will begin the process with an application to have completely stripped down hair. The advantages?http://www.ecmode.com/content/Cn_Hair_Products.aspx#Actives

• Gently yet effectively removes minerals from hair to ensure successful color results


• Extends life of vibrant color to prevent fading or brassiness

Patch Test. There is a lot of controversy about this step... legally - it should be applied before every single color service, although if it was, you would lose 90% of your clients - therefore, what to do??? 24 hours before applying color and especially if you have any type of sensitivities / allergies to products - I highly suggest mixing up a super small batch of the product you'll be using to check for an adverse reaction. Smear a small amount behind the ear and covering it with a band aid for 24 hours, its only 1 little day. If any irritation occurs, wash it off ASAP and do NOT use...Yes, its rare - super rare ... but if you are the one .. it can save you some heartache.

Strand Test. The difference? One is on skin the other on hair. Big difference. For "strand" - apply a tiny batch of product to the hair in the back and underneath, using a foil to cover, for recommended time. Be sure to set TIMER, checking twice throughout developing process. The sun, products, and previous color can all affect your results and timing ... it will also give you an idea of the final result before you commit yourself.

Plenty of product. If hair is long or thick, have 2 tubes of color on hand you can always use the 2nd tube next time if you don't need it all. Saving a 1/2 tube is done all the time in professional color or remember tinting your eyebrows is always recommended by the top pros. Its no longer having the carpet match the drapes, its having the shutters match the drapes! Even more desired!

Barrier Cream application is mandatory around hairline, to prevent color-run and to soften the color hairline . Always applying the color up to & over the hairline for security. Using this cream prevents the dreaded skin stain which results from a clients very dry skin & new color application. Any super thick white cream, or the dreaded vaseline will work just fine for this.They have plenty of barrier's at your local beauty supply if you insist on buying something new for this ;)

Proper Tools make life easy and home coloring possible. Be sure to have at least 2-3 "tail" combs at all times for hair coloring. That and the # 11 comb for parting and distributing dye throughout the hair and scalp. Plenty of strong 3 inch clips (longer hair), foils, hand towels, tint bowls, tint brushes, Timer, measure cup, etc. All supplies are inexpensive and can be purchased for unbelievable prices at WIMEX Beauty http://www.wimexbeauty.com/

Never leave Tint on for longer than recommended time - that's not how it works, and it won't give you a richer, darker shade. The manufacturer's directions are on the "inside" of the box normally- they have tested their product and know it well - if you follow them exactly you will have the best results. Rinse in the manner it quotes, and 'when' you should, so make sure you have that timer visible from your Color Cave!

Always use the "after-Treatment" (Wella's IN DEPTH ) conditioner and pH balancer I speak about frequently, this step is out of my arsenal - I never thought I would reveal. Neither of my mentors practice it and I've always felt it was a true healthy hair gold mine of yours truly, the dear Killer Chemist. Since I revealed it - I fully expect you > to run out, buy it and USE IT !! by the way, its super cheap ( $4-$7)

ooooops, if you do have a mishap, Killer Chemist is a call away. Remember, if you've done all the homework - including read through and made notes of entire Blog, and were fully prepared - yes you can give me a call and I will get you through it. Everything is fixable. Everything.

Never met a head of hair i couldn't fix....

ever.............it may take a while, and cost a load, but I CAN fix it!!

Be sure you have read and followed my directions-advice and writings....I am finding what I call Color Cowboys, they decide,"yee haw" what the Hell, it can't be that hard.....and they just power through without reading a thing. OK, I take that back, they have read 1 or 2 posts and decided they have got it down. Where the rest of you have been good students - reading - asking questions, signed up to the Forum/Group.... then made your attempt at being a CC > Crib Colorist!...with wonderful success.

We have a couple disaster stories displayed yet I have received many more success stories than disasters - I didn't have the Forum going yet.

For everyone interested in discussing

• hair color


• hair health


• hair education of products and their ingredients


• hair styling & tools


• hair growth ( women) 12 step miracle program

Please join the forum/Group that coincides with this Blog...of the same name: Killerstrands

http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/about

If you truly want color formula help - the best way is with photos, its very difficult without the advantage of sight and touch, that meant a helluva lot more to me than I ever realized -- until I started doing this.

They do not need to be photos of your face, i only need the hair and up close is the best...the first 2 girls have taken perfect photos for me to be able to decipher what they were talking about.

so very very much is lost in translation. The Photos save the day.