Don't Ever Try To Write a 2 - Part Series

New Basics Today - 20 Basics earlier This Week

which this stupid Windows Live Writer Program eliminated. . . . sorry . . . . This is the 2nd part of the 2 part 40 Statement POST.

I GIVE UP . . ..

Roll with Crib Colorist Artists; taking note of the next 20 Basics

1. Always - ALWAYS run a test strand. Especially when trying out any of Killer Strands Ideas. Many think if you use public hair color( Sally's Beauty & the like) and imitate my techniques, the results will come out the same - nothing could be further from the truth. When I began this blog, I was also under that false impression - so I understand you thinking so. After many complaints - which led me to testing of the products -- I myself learned the difference between the 2. The difference is remarkable, therefore any Posts I have written in the first year of this Blog - need to be amended - all those suggestions: of using certain "public brands" need to be eliminated. Until I get time to do that all of that, please NOTE this recommendation.

2. When doing a 2 process color (bleach & tone), lift 1/2 to 1 full level, lighter than your desired color to ensure desired results.

3. When you are lightening hair color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the underlying remaining pigment, which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

4. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair. Red and Yellow tones will dominate, because the first pigment to leave during lightening is blue.

5. Fillers used on both depositing and high lifting. I "will" be going over this in detail - soon.

6. Never use HEAT with hair color, Stylists use heat to "buy time", I cannot think of one hair color whose directions require heat.

7. When choosing your next hair color, try not to rush into things, consider your lifestyle - consider your economic status - most importantly - consider your hair type & health. If really not sure, you can always purchase a HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, which basically costs you $15.00 for my help.

8. For the best results use premium Developer, with professional hair color comes a much higher quality developer.

9. Mix together small amounts of color at a time. Pro Hair Color has a "freshness" factor, once the developer & the tint are mixed together - the faster you get it applied, the better. Use enough product, but do not waste.

10. Re-mixing is a better course to take than mixing all at once and having to throwing away excess. Hair Color to Professionals is the number 1 expense, so learning to work thrifty with it, is advantageous to them - I would think the same would affect everyone.

11. Permanent Tint is the most effective way to color hair.

12. Neat, small accurate applications make for successful coverage and contrary to what some might think, actually take less time + allow more control.

13. Precise parting & sectioning will help, when it comes to both application and coverage, so practice - practice - practice.

14. Extra peroxide or a 2:1 ratio increases lifting ability of any volume.

15. 80% of problems in Hair Color come from misjudging the base or existing level.

16. To make a missing Level ......... mix (roughly) 2 parts of the lighter level color with 1 part of the darker level. For example, say you need a Level 7 N......... in the cupboard you have a tube of 8N and 6N. Add ..............2 parts of 8N with 1 part of 6N = the result will be a perfect 7N.

17. Foil work is an art and should be treated as such. Precision work requires practice-practice -practice.

18. Discard all mixed product not used.

19. Level 7, by the way, is the most difficult Level to get past, hence the difficulties with brassy colors.

20. There are 4 types of hair color: Temporary, Semi Permanent, Demi Permanent, Permanent Hair Color.

Killer Chemist

Patch Test for Hair Color: Necessity or Waste?

Sloppy technique = Sloppy Hair







I would like you all to learn the proper - British- Boot Camp standards that I learned...it made me a better Hair Stylist/Colorist - as it will you.







Please attempt one of these, for practice and for knowledge....jot down your results and post in the GROUP.







PATCH TEST

When working with hair color, you will have to determine whether you have any allergies or sensitivities to the mixture. Please don’t blow this off, I know it takes an extra day…but there is a reason we do it. In the Salon I had every single person sign a questionnaire before I touched their hair, I bet 90% of you never filled out a questionnaire. I believe in rules, regulations and sensitivities…I have them. Within my questionnaire I gave them the opportunity to take the patch test, if they didn’t want to they had to sign a release. I also asked them if they were allergic to pollen, any foods or any drugs, if they answered yes and listed a row of them . . . we ran the test anyway. People are allergic to hair color, just like there are people allergic to the sun and grass, things we cannot get rid of. I did not get into this business to inflict any type of pain, and that CAN happen if precautions are not taken, its even a lot easier for you Crib Colorists to perform this and wait one day. We are starting a new hobby here – for it to fly we need to follow the pro’s rules.

Performing a PATCH Test

1. Select test area, behind the ear or on the inside of the elbow are good choices.

2. Using a mild soap, cleanse and dry an area about the size of a quarter

3. Mix a small amount of product according to the manufacturers directions

4. Apply to the test area with a sterile cotton swab

5. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours

6. Examine the test area. If there are no signs of redness or irritation you can proceed with the color service.

A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates the color may be safely applied.

A positive result will show redness and a slight rash or welt – A positive result will show redness and slight rash or welt. If you have these symptoms, under no circumstances should you use the product that you tested. Do not panic though, there are many lines of hair color … with many different chemical bases for you to choose from. Renbow has the least amount of objectionable ingredients in their products, one of the many reasons I use them – I have clients with super sensitive scalps, which is not saying it is an allergic reaction – if I use Renbow’s Colorissimo they remark they felt nothing on their scalp it is so gentle… using a natural BEESWAX for its base.

At Home With Color

Vibrant, Professional Hair Color is possible without visiting the Salon. Just follow these 10 Steps to ensure you get the results of your dreams ( and not your nightmares)

Prepare a "Color Cave", that you plan to use each month. Use old towels, old t-shirts & an old sheet for the floor. Hide anything and everything that's within dye splashing distance. Be sure to invest in a hands-free... rear-view mirror if you don't have help with back of hair. They have different models at local bed & bath stores, also wonderful for blowdrying and styling hands-free.

Begin with clean, dry hair that's free of styling product build-up - for super gunked up hair I have used a product by Malibu 2000 for many years called COLOR PREP, when doing hair color for big photo shoots or TV commericals we will begin the process with an application to have completely stripped down hair. The advantages?http://www.ecmode.com/content/Cn_Hair_Products.aspx#Actives

• Gently yet effectively removes minerals from hair to ensure successful color results


• Extends life of vibrant color to prevent fading or brassiness

Patch Test. There is a lot of controversy about this step... legally - it should be applied before every single color service, although if it was, you would lose 90% of your clients - therefore, what to do??? 24 hours before applying color and especially if you have any type of sensitivities / allergies to products - I highly suggest mixing up a super small batch of the product you'll be using to check for an adverse reaction. Smear a small amount behind the ear and covering it with a band aid for 24 hours, its only 1 little day. If any irritation occurs, wash it off ASAP and do NOT use...Yes, its rare - super rare ... but if you are the one .. it can save you some heartache.

Strand Test. The difference? One is on skin the other on hair. Big difference. For "strand" - apply a tiny batch of product to the hair in the back and underneath, using a foil to cover, for recommended time. Be sure to set TIMER, checking twice throughout developing process. The sun, products, and previous color can all affect your results and timing ... it will also give you an idea of the final result before you commit yourself.

Plenty of product. If hair is long or thick, have 2 tubes of color on hand you can always use the 2nd tube next time if you don't need it all. Saving a 1/2 tube is done all the time in professional color or remember tinting your eyebrows is always recommended by the top pros. Its no longer having the carpet match the drapes, its having the shutters match the drapes! Even more desired!

Barrier Cream application is mandatory around hairline, to prevent color-run and to soften the color hairline . Always applying the color up to & over the hairline for security. Using this cream prevents the dreaded skin stain which results from a clients very dry skin & new color application. Any super thick white cream, or the dreaded vaseline will work just fine for this.They have plenty of barrier's at your local beauty supply if you insist on buying something new for this ;)

Proper Tools make life easy and home coloring possible. Be sure to have at least 2-3 "tail" combs at all times for hair coloring. That and the # 11 comb for parting and distributing dye throughout the hair and scalp. Plenty of strong 3 inch clips (longer hair), foils, hand towels, tint bowls, tint brushes, Timer, measure cup, etc. All supplies are inexpensive and can be purchased for unbelievable prices at WIMEX Beauty http://www.wimexbeauty.com/

Never leave Tint on for longer than recommended time - that's not how it works, and it won't give you a richer, darker shade. The manufacturer's directions are on the "inside" of the box normally- they have tested their product and know it well - if you follow them exactly you will have the best results. Rinse in the manner it quotes, and 'when' you should, so make sure you have that timer visible from your Color Cave!

Always use the "after-Treatment" (Wella's IN DEPTH ) conditioner and pH balancer I speak about frequently, this step is out of my arsenal - I never thought I would reveal. Neither of my mentors practice it and I've always felt it was a true healthy hair gold mine of yours truly, the dear Killer Chemist. Since I revealed it - I fully expect you > to run out, buy it and USE IT !! by the way, its super cheap ( $4-$7)

ooooops, if you do have a mishap, Killer Chemist is a call away. Remember, if you've done all the homework - including read through and made notes of entire Blog, and were fully prepared - yes you can give me a call and I will get you through it. Everything is fixable. Everything.

Never met a head of hair i couldn't fix....

ever.............it may take a while, and cost a load, but I CAN fix it!!

Be sure you have read and followed my directions-advice and writings....I am finding what I call Color Cowboys, they decide,"yee haw" what the Hell, it can't be that hard.....and they just power through without reading a thing. OK, I take that back, they have read 1 or 2 posts and decided they have got it down. Where the rest of you have been good students - reading - asking questions, signed up to the Forum/Group.... then made your attempt at being a CC > Crib Colorist!...with wonderful success.

We have a couple disaster stories displayed yet I have received many more success stories than disasters - I didn't have the Forum going yet.

For everyone interested in discussing

• hair color


• hair health


• hair education of products and their ingredients


• hair styling & tools


• hair growth ( women) 12 step miracle program

Please join the forum/Group that coincides with this Blog...of the same name: Killerstrands

http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/about

If you truly want color formula help - the best way is with photos, its very difficult without the advantage of sight and touch, that meant a helluva lot more to me than I ever realized -- until I started doing this.

They do not need to be photos of your face, i only need the hair and up close is the best...the first 2 girls have taken perfect photos for me to be able to decipher what they were talking about.

so very very much is lost in translation. The Photos save the day.