OOPMAHS .... OOPMAHS ! One of the most thorough Segments on the subject

That's SHAMPOO backwards, because we are going to turn the subject upside down and inside out

The first step of the 10,000 heads system is Shampoo, formerly it was Nutrition, and is chosen by which subject is asked about the most of the 10. So for the next 6 months its Shampoo. I would like to conquer and explain shampoo to you, the readers, in as detailed a method as possible, without 'losing your interest'. So we will brush on pH & its importance, explain the role of surfactants, try to explain all the various categories and finally thoroughly discuss the whole SLS and Sulfate controversy along with my ideas on the subjects. I will end with the most extensive sulfate-free shampoo list I can possibly come up with. Sound good? I hope so

Hair Anatomy

This is something I should have discussed a long time ago, but hey, who knew I would still be going. I'm also going to wrench it up a notch with this discussion and start going into a bit more of the scientific angle, I am finding a lot of you are interested in the more technical talk and the more specific answers - so this will be my first attempt at a new level of explanation. Please feel free to leave comments at the end as to how you like or disliked it. Its the only way for me to learn.

Hair is composed of protein that grows of cells originating within the hair follicle. This is where the hair shaft begins. As soon as these living cells form, they begin their journey upward through the hair follicle. They mature in a process called keratinization. As these newly formed cells mature, they fill up with a fibrous protein called keratin, then move upward, lose their nucleus and die. You will see many products use that buzz word - Keratin. I have performed many experiments with pure Keratin, and truly did not notice any difference when it is added to hair conditioner products. The only way the market at the moment sells Keratin is in an aqueous state, the hair loves and adores anything OIL-BASED. I found some oil-based Keratin from New Zealand that I played around for a few months and had much better luck, the problem ended up being if I wanted to use it in a product, it would cost me a fortune to get it delivered from New Zealand, so I had to scratch that idea.

By the time the hair shaft emerges from the scalp, the cells of the hair are completely keratinized and are no longer living. The hair shaft that emerges from the scalp is a nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein. Hair is a cylinder of impacted keratinized cells, I have included a simplified model of a single hair shaft (photo) and other various close-ups for you to refer to for the discussion of shampoo & hair care products. A cross section of the hair shaft shows you the 3 major structures of a fully mature and keratinized hair. The central-most layer is the medulla, the next layer is the cortex and the outer layer is the cuticle.

MEDULLA - this section of the hair contains melanin granules and is present only in very thick terminal hair - generally only thick coarse hair contains a medulla( all male beard hair contains one) its quite common for very fine and blond hair to entirely lack a medulla. The least important as far as hair care.

CORTEX - a fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment, about 90% of weight comes from the cortex. The elasticity and the hairs natural color begin here. Most of the changes to the hair shaft - such as those related to permanent color (oxidative coloring), semi permanent, chemical straightening, curling hair, permanent waving all occur in the cortex of the hair, the major component of the hair shaft. The cortex consists of elongated cells containing monofilament rich in cystine, this composition gives hair its great tensile strength.

CUTICLE - the integrity of the hair shaft is maintained by the cuticle. The cuticle consists of flattened cells along the hair shaft arranged like shingles on a roof. The overlapping is extremely tight, preventing damage to the underlying cortex. This is the part of the hair I refer to the most, I hope you can remember these scales, they are important in many references I will make over time. When the cuticle is INTACT, the scales are SMOOTH, reflect light, and provide a shiny, healthy look to the hair! A healthy intact cuticle is the hair's primary defense against damage and this is the layer that really takes the most abuse. Lets just say > your cuticle hates your flat iron!

Hair is approximately 91 percent protein. 91% ! ! ! ! Now when I stress, when we get to the NUTRITION section soon, that PROTEIN -- PROTEIN -- PROTEIN must be burned into the back of your brain every time you go to eat, you can now see a hint of "why". The protein is made up of long chains of amino acids, which in turn are made up of elements. the elements that make up human hair are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur. These five elements are also the major elements found in skin and nails (remember > I find so many similarities in skin and hair - my basis for how THRIVEN was conceived) are often referred to as the COHNS elements. Table 8-1 shows the % of each element in normal hair.

                                                                                              

The amino acids, the units of structure in protein, are linked together end to end like Mardi Gras beads. the chemical bond that joins amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond . A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds is called a polypeptide chain. Polypeptide chains intertwine around each other in a spiral shape called a helix.

The 4 most important hair characteristics that affect its function and appearance are density, elasticity, porosity and texture. Which is an entire Department or D-E-P-T its initials.

DENSITY : measures the number of individual hair strands on one square inch (2.5 cm-Andre!). It indicates how many hairs there are on a persons head. Hair density can be classified as low, medium, or high ( or thin, medium, or thick-dense). Hair density is different from hair texture in that different individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities. Some individuals may have coarse hair texture ( each hair has a large diameter), but low hair density ( a low number of hairs on the head). Others may have fine hair texture (each hair has a small diameter) but high hair density ( a high number of hairs on the head). Hope that isn't too confusing, this is an important fact for those of you working with me on hair color consultations. The more info like this that you can break down and explain to me the more "right-on" we will get with your own personal hair color formulation. So if you have any questions on this be sure to ask at the bottom in the "COMMENTS" section, lets clear it up once and for all.

The average hair density is about 2,200 hairs per square inch. Hair with high density ( thick or dense hair) has more hairs per square inch. The average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hair strands. the number of hairs on the head generally varies with the color of hair. Blondes usually has the highest density and redheads ( boo-hoo) have the lowest.

POROSITY: If only I could stress the importance of this characteristic, I would be able to access some of your hair so much easier. Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration. Porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs water.

Hair with low porosity is considered resistant (see photo) . Chemical services performed on hair with low porosity require a more alkaline solution than those on hair with high porosity. Alkaline solutions raise the cuticle and permit uniform saturation and processing.

Hair with average porosity is considered normal (see photo) . Chemical services performed on this type of hair will usually process as expected, according to texture, which is why if I know this about your hair I can gauge more accurately your outcome, so I encourage all of you to figure each of these characteristics out about your own hair, its good information to have for life, I feel.

Hair with high porosity is considered overly porous and is the results of previous over processing (see photo).Over porous hair is damaged, dry, fragile and brittle. Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require less alkaline solutions with a lower pH. This will help over processing.(Yes, I realize we need to go into the whole entire pH story, which we will very very soon - it is hard to decide whether to start with the chicken or the egg in explaining this - its ALL necessary).

The Texture of the hair is not an indication of its porosity. Different degrees of porosity can be found in all hair textures. Although coarse hair normally has a low porosity and is resistant to chemical services, coarse hair can also have high porosity as the result of previous chemical services.

Here is a nifty trick . . you can check porosity on dry hair by taking a strand of several hairs from 4 different areas of the head ( the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape). Hold the strand securely with one hand while sliding the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the end to the scalp. If the hair feels smooth and the cuticle is compact, dense and hard, it is considered resistant. If you can feel a slight roughness, it is considered porous. If the hair feels rough, dry or breaks it is considered overly porous.

HAIR ELASTICITY Is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Hair Elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair's individual fibers in place. Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50% of its original length and return to that length without breaking. Hair with normal elasticity holds the curl from wet sets and permanent waves without excessive relaxing.

Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily. Hair with low elasticity may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, thermal styling ( curling irons ) or perms. Hair with low elasticity is the result of weak side bonds that usually result from over processing. Chemical services performed on hair with low elasticity require a milder solution with a lower pH, that solution minimizes damage and helps prevent additional over processing.

Check elasticity on wet hair by taking an individual strand from four different areas of the head ( the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape). Hold a single strand of wet hair securely and try to pull it apart ( see photo - elasticity). If the hair stretches and returns to its original shape without breaking, it has normal elasticity. If the hair breaks easily or fails to return to it original length then it has low elasticity.

HAIR TEXTURE is the thickness of diameter of the individual hair strand. Hair texture can be be classified as coarse, medium, or fine and differs from individual to individual (see all photos). Hair can also vary from strand to strand on the same person's head! It is not uncommon for hair from different areas of the head to have different textures. Hair from the nape (back of the neck), crown, temples, and front hairline of the same person may all have different textures - just to confuse matters even more.

Coarse hair texture has the largest diameter. It is stronger than fine hair, for the same reason that a thick rope is stronger than a thin rope. Coarse hair also has a stronger structure. It usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to that processing. It is usually more difficult for hair lighteners, hair colors, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers to penetrate coarse hair, so that is why this subject is relevant in the overall scheme of hair .

Medium hair texture is the most common and it is the standard to which other hair is compared. Medium hair is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.

Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from chemical services than coarse or medium hair. Finer hair is hair that one should choose the least amount of time for chemical services possible, as a safeguard. With bleach you will be leaving it on quite a bit less than coarse hair. See why these characteristics are so very very important ? If you figure them out about your hair you can take them into account when coloring your hair the first time and therefore you can avoid any disasters from happening.

Hair Texture can be determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers. Take an individual strand from 4 different areas of the head -- the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape -- and hold the strand securely with one hand while feeling it with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. With a little practice you will be able to to feel the difference between coarse, medium and fine hair diameters.

These 4 major characteristics of the hair shaft, Density, Elasticity, Porosity & Texture (dept.) -- will affect the overall permeability of hair to chemicals.

Texture and Porosity are judged together in determining the processing time. Although porosity is more significant, texture is also important. Fine hair, having a small diameter, will become saturated with wave lotion more than hair with a large diameter if both are equally porous. Coarse hair that is very porous, however will process faster than fine hair that is not porous. The hair texture will also contribute to its elasticity. The stronger the hair shaft, the greater its elasticity.

Whew! that was a mouthful and a page full but its something I have wanted to get said. So I am glad it finally is. This is just the beginning of how the hair structure pertains to shampoos and hair care products, which is all forth coming so just hang on - I hope you will like this series, lots of facts - lots of science .... KC

Holy Roller Commandments of Sinfully Rich Hair Color

9 Steps to Pray About Before You Color Yo' Hair

In order to color hair so it stays nice and beautifully rich some of us have acquired tricks that we like to keep to ourselves. That way we keep a nice stream of clients filling our chairs on a regular basis. A point to remember ... the steps and ideas noted here are not taken into account when you purchase those boxed kits. So if none of them are taken into account, I simply do not understand how the manufacturers of those kits can assume the hair will be colored correctly.



They won't because there needs to be some education that people understand before they attempt to color their hair. Let me relate it to cooking once again. Lets say you have purchased a Rice-A-Roni Boxed kit in the grocery store. You take that home to make it, read the directions on the box ...follow them and have something pretty darn close to what the maker hoped you would. Otherwise, I can guarantee you would not keep continuing to purchase it...it would be history, and why? There are lots of other boxed kits of food to chose from. Now, on that box of Rice-A-Roni it tells you to measure 1 Tablespoon of this and 1/2 teaspoon of that, and to bring to boil. Where did you learn what a Tablespoon is compared to a teaspoon? Where did you learn what a "boil" is ? cooking is chemistry as well ... just like hair color. Which is precisely my point within the boundaries of hair color, certain rules, or laws, or guidelines need to be known before the task is taken on so the result is not a disaster. Nowhere does it say that on those boxes, it gives no instructions on hair type, texture, structure,prior hair color treatments, light, porosity, color saturation...none of that. Which is 'why' the results are most times atrocious. Why can't they all go to separate color and developer stations - with instruction sheets. That's all I am saying. I have never felt that the entire idea needs to be scrapped, I just think it all needs to be sold like it is in the beauty supply - separately - with a sheet of instructions. It does NOT work in a boxed kit, nor will it ever.





Every time I look at the new ads with Eva Langoria shouting the wonders of a $8.00 boxed hair color kit and how it has done this





to her hair, I want to scream bloody murder. For the most important point there are a minimum of 4 colors in this look, so how in the bloody hell can she even claim to use one box with one color in it, is beyond me. It makes me lose total respect for the women that choose to do these commercials or ads. They could choose to do another ad, do mascara, do foundation - Hell do shampoo, but to lie about what the color is on your hair? I couldn't do it myself - and I need the money, they don't.





I have done this exact look on others, when I do a stars hair I either sign a piece of paper called a Confidentiality Agreement or I verbally agree to one. Being a 31 year member of the Screen Actors Guild makes me stick to my word so I will not give out names - as I never have. So you will never hear who, you will just have to trust that its the truth. I know my information is top notch so I have no worries, no doubts & no guilt. A million dollar movie star has never ever put an $8.00 boxed kit on their hair, their Stylist,Colorist,Lawyer, Publicist, and Agent would not allow it...let alone the star. One move like that could destroy a perfectly gorgeous star's career, seen Rene Zellwegers hair lately? Thank the Hair Gods above for gorgeous wigs.





I have 2 words I'd like to define for you... they both are difficult to understand and explain, which is why I have been avoiding them...today I begin the battle:





Porous: Describes condition of cuticle when it is raised and open, allowing moisture and liquid to absorb





Porosity: The hair's ability to absorb liquid or moisture





9 Steps to take seriously before coloring hair





1. What is Your Ethnic Group





This is a little trick learned from the Europeans I find handy . Because each type of hair responds differently to color, its important to understand the nature of the hair you have. Do you have Nordic, Celtic, Latin, Mediterranean, Asian, or African Hair. Refer to the 2 families of Hair charts below. Across the top are the LEVELS, the more you understand the Levels - the better for your success as a Home Pro Hair Colorist remember.











The number 1 color of hair in the entire world? .........BLACK





The most rare: RED





Just one more way of understanding how hair color works the best











2. Evaluate Your Hair Texture





Different weights and types of hair will respond differently when color is applied. Texture refers to the diameter of each shaft of hair, Usually categorized by fine, medium or coarse. It is essential to be familiar with how various textures of hair will react to color. Hair density differs not only from one individual to another but also from strand to strand on the same persons head - to further confuse things. It is best determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers if you do not know your texture - give it a try. The 3 types of hair have the following characteristics

• Very fine hair is more fragile, easier to process and more susceptible to damage than is coarse or medium hair. As a general rule fine hair will take color darker. Therefore when formulating, go one half to one level lighter will always be a good idea


• Medium hair is the most common hair texture. It is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.


• Coarse hair has the largest diameter which usually requires more processing than medium or fine and will take color lighter because of the resistance factor...formulate one half to one level darker. It is usually more difficult for lighteners, and color to penetrate.


• The most difficult? Hair with a high degree of uneven porosity (see above) needs to be formulated with a partial portion of bottled color - helps with even-ness.

3. Determine Your Hair Density





Hair density measures the number of strands of hair on the head, indicating how thick or thin the hair is. Individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities, I know - I know it all can be so damn confusing, just hang in there with me. Some individuals with fine hair texture, characterized by each hair having a small diameter, may have high density, with many individual hairs per square inch. Others with coarse hair texture, characterized by each hair having a large diameter, may have low density, with few individuals hairs per square inch.





4. Determine your Natural Level





Take a good close look to see exactly what color it is in its natural state, this will give you the information you need to plan the coloring process.





When in doubt about which exact color you are match the hair with the charts in the "N" row of the Wella Koleston Perfect chart over on the Google Group of Killerstrands (with the charts over there you own the ability to close-in on the color for precise control & decisions) http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands?hl=en





5. Determine the Amount of Gray Hair





Since white or gray hair acts differently with hair color than pigmented hair, even a home hair colorist must first assess the amount of gray present on their noggin'.





If hair is more than 30 percent gray, choose your target level, use the "N" series on those charts again and now add the tonal group to the assessment. I have not gone into this to the depth I need to yet, but its coming... you will need to use the "N" series to implant the base in that colorless (gray) hair and the tonal choice will give it the warmth or coolness desired. If needed some haircolor from the "Beige/Brown series will also increase coverage of gray. A 20 Volume amount of hydrogen peroxide is always recommended for deposit in this area.





Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough.





If you are 80 to 100% gray, a haircolor within the blonde range is generally more flattering that a darker shade. Gray hair has many tricks and complications and deserves a post of its own and its on its way.





6. Have any Previous Hair Color Treatments





Whether or not you have previous color on your hair or not is the single most neglected and misunderstood step. I have the hardest time with getting through to people about this. This is another point that the boxed kits should point out immediately which they do not, the reason they don't? No one would purchase the stuff if it said that, there are figures like 85% of the country is now coloring their hair, so with a figure like that why wouldn't they WANT to put that on the Kit?





Be honest ... with you, with your hair, so many people put color on their hair and then think a stylist won't see it or can tell. Nothing is farther from the truth and nothing could be worse for the outcome of your hair. It affects the outcome - be real , be honest - all color on that hair counts unless its been cut off .





In my opinion hair color must be removed at all times if you are going lighter. Removed, not bleached. There is one and only one color remover I would recommend - it is a professional level color remover and a patented formula from Germany that at one time was known as MODULAT. I still call it that. I guess there are some other knock-offs out there, that claim to do the same thing - who knew?? !! I'm finding out things even I didn't know with the life of this site. For color removing services in Malibu the prices started at $250. for 1 treatment, usually 2-3 are needed, the price of the product from Killerstrands is $33.00 and does not take a rocket scientist to operate. If you have interest in the item please send an email with "product order" in the subject header to Killerstrands@gmail.com .





7. What Is The Result You Want?





Seem silly? You will not believe the amount of people that do not clarify this to themselves before heading to the Beauty Supply. Look through magazines, tear out pages of looks, comb through my sites...even though its been too much for me to do both...I still have an entire blog of photos only...and continue to get emails from people thanking me because they are current hot photos of hair, so look there ...its hooked up so you can download a very clear photo to your own computer. http://www.killerpics.blogspot.com/ . Print the photo out and think about the colors - look and style. Ask others for opinions and try not to make rash decisions. There is something about chicks and hair color and doing it - - - "NOW"- - I have newly discovered thru this site. Come on team lets try to put some proper preparation into this, its a pretty substantial change you are trying to make, I really don't recommend just stop-drop and rolling! Lets plan - prepare and execute, OK?











What is the exact color you want to achieve and how will you get there? Are you prepared for the maintenance work, which is one thing very few of you ever consider. How much maintenance and re-touching will this new color require? Can you handle it? Have you ever used foils? Ever used semi permanent Pink? Consider all the angles and cover what you need to know - prior to D-day or C-day I mean (color)!





8. The importance of the Right Light





Metamerism, which refers to the reflective property of objects as subjective to the type and power of light source, also effects the coloring of hair. How the room is lit where you make your decisions can make a huge difference in the way the color looks on your head and needs to be carefully planned and accounted for.





Do not look at your hair under fluorescent lights when dealing with hair color, it will just not be a happy ending. If you must get a lamp and purchase some incandescent lights with the whitest bulb possible to use just to determine and work with your hair coloring projects, you will thank me in the end. The most highly recommended lights are the halogen white lights, a bit pricier but the oooohooo color is slam-damit-right.





9. Plan for color Saturation





Dyes are different arrangements of molecular structures and tend to modify the light rays that fall on them. This phenomenon is known as color saturation.





It needs to be understood that the intermediate content in a tube or bottle is obviously dependent on the amount of depositing and saturation of color to achieve. The lighter the color level, the less intermediate it will contain. The darker the level, the more the content as you can see by the chart.

STRUCTURE & HAIR TYPE

Structure and hair type are partial determining factors in choosing which hair color to use, which will also affect the quality and ultimate success of the hair color.

Some hair color products may cause a dramatic change in the structure of the hair while others cause relatively little change. Knowing how products affect the hair will be one other feather in your cap so you can make the best choices for your own hair.

A little quick review of hair structure...the hair is composed of 3 main parts.

• CUTICLE: the outermost layer, it protects the interior cortex and contributes 20% of the overall strength


• CORTEX: the middle layer - which gives the hair its strength and elasticity. a healthy cortex lends 80% of the strength to the hair. It contains the natural pigment called MELANIN, which determines if we are blonde,brunette, or redhead.


• MEDULLA: the innermost layer. It is sometimes absent from the hair and plays a very minor role in the hair coloring process.
  
  TEXTURE

Hair texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Large,medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium textured hair has an average response to hair color product and finally coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process.

So on the RAZERBURN blog, we just got through teaching the men to determine the 'texture' of their hair - just so they would have the information and knowledge for life...and sure enough here is one other spot that just having the proper diagnosis would be of such a great advantage.

DENSITY
Another aspect that plays a role in hair coloring you must remember is density, which is the numbers of hair per square inch which can range from thick to thin. Density matters as it affects 'proper coverage'.

Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid, porous hair accepts hair color faster and permits darker color than less porous hair. There are different degrees of porosity.....

low porosity: the cuticle is tight>the hair is resistant. which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate & requires a longer processing time. an example of resistant hair ? Gray hair.
average porosity: cuticle is slightly raised, hair is normal and processes in average time.
high porosity: cuticle is lifted;hair is over porous and the hair takes color very quickly <> color also fades quickly

OK... that is now every little tiny bit of info that I was going to have to mention or bring up...in order to explain to explain the world of professional Hair color. Hallelujah!
Whoops it just hit me............
one more day of this.....I need to go Over lighteners.....lighteners such as BLEACH and High Lift Blondes. I love bleaches...as a colourist...I look for the tools that create the most radical change in the hair....that take the hair from black to WHITE.....or from white to black...because to accomplish that well can only be done by handful of people. Its a terrific sense of accomplishment to be the tops in your field.

So stay tuned...I may finish this off today or bounce back to Frizz-FREE FRIDAY....