The Magic of Hair Color Mixology

Becoming a Crib Colorist

Mix Colorissimo w/ RenColor & why

I am very, no…. make that ---> EXTREMELY proud of so many of you that follow the KillerStrands teachings and have taken it upon yourself to learn the proper way to color hair. I hear many of you talking in “Colorist-lingo” and speaking about it correctly and in the proper format. Makes me a proud Mama Bear. There seems to be a lot of questions about the mixing of colors when using the Renbow Lines and I can fully understand that.

Why? When I was in Sassoon Academy no one ever mixed the 2 lines together. . .when I got out and was able to order the color myself for my own Clientele…I began reading the Instruction sheets, Color Charts and Inserts that come with the color, I was very thirsty for knowledge back then, much like many of you are now.

It was not until this point though, (about 3 years after I started) that I began experimenting with mixing RenColor and Colorissimo together. I mean why wouldn’t these Master Colorists {that were my Instructors} not teach me the exact ‘correct’ methods of mixing & applying this color? ? ? It took me quite a few years to finally come up with that answer. [... because they never slowed down long enough to read the Manufacturers Instructions and suggestions which is what I did - sometimes 'ego' gets in the way of learning -be careful of that one!].

I highly suggest all of you read the manufacturers instructions periodically on hair color that you are using…you never know when they have changed the instructions so check it all over periodically. So I was not taught the way to use Colorissimo and RenColor together….that was one of the most amazing discoveries of my career…I still remember the day.

RenColor comes in 30 beautiful fashion and pastel shades. To this date I have never seen one other line of permanent hair color with this range and this unusual of colors. I keep waiting for anyone to get close or to understand that as a top Colorist. THIS IS WHAT TONES WE WANT…they may seem a bit unusual to many of you. But you ask any top colorist & most will agree. The thing about Renbow and why it was not nearly as big as any of the other lines? Is because it was owned and run and a famous italian Colorist Renato Bruno. Renato came to America and ended up staying here when he brought the line over… so he has a manufacturing plant and distribution in Italy and throughout Europe and in Pennsylvania & throughout the USA. The bottle contains 2 ounces of product and must be mixed with an equal amount of hydrogen peroxide..

Rencolor provides amazing lift & lasting ability, self-stopping coloring action, no build-up of color on the ends as is so with ALL Renbow colors. RenColor is also know for its superb transparency, unsurpassed conditioning…but mostly > its known for is SHINE!

There are 4 Shade Divisions within RenColor

DUSK ……………..….in Levels 1 to 6

DAWN …………….…in Levels 6 to 10

SUNRISE …………in Levels 7 to 10

SUNSET …………. in Levels 5 to 8

…………………………………………………………………

Lets Begin with DUSK

DUSK - An intermixed base that is predominantly a deep tone. There just isn’t a lot of tones that show up in dark levels. I have watched various companies try and fail -- attempting it. A 3 BRV, pretty much looks like black if you ask me. Or a 4A, which many companies, including both WELLA & Renbow’s Colorissimo have…I have a great eye for color especially hair color but anything below a 5 or especially a 4 is pointless….its just too damn dark. .Hey, I’m all for them keeping them in their lines, I used to use them – I LOVED them & used them all…. I felt bad for the darkies….. they had no fun/no variations…just ask me -- I’ve been the same dumbass Level 8-Red my whole life. . . with a few attempts at other colors, they just look weird on me. I understand boredom in hair color like no body’s business, I’m the queen of boring hair color….its sitting right on my shoulders day in and day out!

The DUSK series has a couple super stars though. If I had to pick #1 I would say it is #3 MOKA. I will give it to the Head of Vidal Sassoons Color Department she told me that MOKA was the most gorgeous, the most rich and the most beautiful Darkest Brown on the planet….gave hair the most shine….and was just stunning. She was dead right, so remember that boys and girls.

HOW IT WORKS

Gray Hair – Achieves a translucent type of coverage, allowing a shiny transparent effect.

VIRGIN & TINTED – Supplies a sophisticated shimmer of color.

BLEACHED & Highly Tinted—Use with caution. This is the wrong palette for very light hair, I’m sure you can see why ( its way damn too dark! ha ha)

So…my favorite 2 mixtures in the DUSK series are:

#1) Colorissimo 4N – 1 oz. + RenColor #03 MOKA – 1oz.. + + 2 OZ. of 20V Developer ……………The 4N would supply the Gray coverage, or even if you didn’t have gray, this is still the most gorgeous combo.. The color were made to work together like this and when you DO use them to work this way you get the perfect color. For years companies made “Liquid” hair color the way RenColor is made, they found that Liquid hair color imparted an incredible amount of SHINE…BUT, it did not cover Gray as well. So they had to go back to the Tube –(Pigment-rich) Hair Color for that. This is why you mix the 2 together. For both tremendous Gray coverage, and shocking SHINE! Lasts longer than any other line . . . believe I have tried. Renbow is not easy to get, the company has never been into the whole “marketing and sales” like most companies. So I have tried many times to find someone else with as good of coverage/shine/ all of it.

As I have said many times. . . Renbow, USA has been bought out by Paul Mitchel in 2009 . . . . So we will see what happens in this next upcoming year.

#2) Colorissimo 5N (or 6N) – 1/2 oz. + Ren Color 06 Velvet Brown – 1 1/2 oz. ++ 2 oz. of 20V Developer

DAWN…….An intermixed based of Violet and Blue Pigments. These are some great tones for all that brass, blorange, gold and on and on that you all know too well. I know they may not look to delightful on the page, but remember, you use hair color to fight (to oppose) the unwanted tones you have in your hair. Its funny when you are at my stage, I just LOVE the oddest colors, and it wasn’t until KillerStrands until I realized how truly funny the colors I love …are. Remember Renbow is the only company I know of that uses blue/violet for their ASH’s - - the way it is meant to be. ( American companies use green/ grey…YUK!….What color does “grey get rid of?) I

I mean look at the SILVER MINK, how absolutely gorgeous it is. Plus it is a permanent hair color + MOONLIGHT is WHITE…I call it Marilyn Monroe Blonde…Even 25 Opaline is yummy. Dawn and SunRise are my favorite groups…

I started to think whether or not I had ever used one of these colors alone…I”m pretty sure I have not. Where with the DUSK group I have used all of them alone - - these tones are all a case for canceling “unwanted tones”

HOW IT WORKS

The Dawn series is especially suited for neutralizing unwanted yellow to gold or orange tones.

GRAY HAIR…..NOT recommended for Snow WHITE or pure Gray hair, but will provide a beautiful shimmering effect on salt and pepper gray hair.

Virgin and Tinted – Provides a drabbing effect on excess yellow, gold, orange tones. An excellent series to mix with Colorissimo HIGHLIFT SERIES for one process blonding.

Bleached and Highly Tinted – A wonderful –Toner series for all Blonds. Nearly every single color creates a gorgeous effect on blonds.

In order to make it easy for you, I have added 2 new Blonding Kits – incorporating this new (to you) method of using RenColor in your Highlift blonding process.

. .There are 2 new Kits – that include RenColor (MOONLIGHT) for those that love it ( the highlift Kits are our #1 selling color ) including RenColor w/ a bit of a discount.

Its called:

1) High-Lift Twin Turbo-Kit (5 pc Kit)

Colorissimo 100A + 40V Developer………….Renbow – White Genie…………Rencolor (Moonlight 27)

AND

2) High-lift Turbo Kit (4 pc. Kit)

Colorissimo 100A + 40V Developer…..RenColor (Moonlight 27)

……………………………………….

I will finish this up tomorrow or Saturday. . . . . but wanted to get it started…

Something has happened to the COMMENTs on this Blogging System….they just don’t work very well anymore and I get lots of SPAM Comments, so I have to delete over 1/2 of them. ??? If you have any questions about this … please head to the GROUP and I will try to hang out there this weekend. . . .

thanks,

Killer Chemist

Only You Can Prevent Gray Hair - Part 3

Hey, Gray and the saga continues

There are many qualifications about gray in the hair and how much gray does the person actually have? Less than 30%, more than 30% but less than 60%, or 60% to 100%? This can make a big difference in your color selection as well as in the formula you will use.

If it looks more natural than gray, there is less than 30%; if it appears even (salt and pepper), it is 30% to 60 %; if it looks more gray than natural, it is more than 60%.

If you have more than 60% gray, do not tint your hair to the color it used to be.... why? You are very used to looking at "lighter" hair <> Granted it was 'white/gray' hair but the overall look to you is lighter than what you used to be, so 9 times out of 10 the shock will not be good. Its much more appealing and effective to start off two to 3 levels lighter than the natural (original) color. The look will be more attractive and personally I feel too dark of hair on a mature person can be harsh, unattractive and basically unnatural. If you are dealing with gray you will have deal with roots anyway, so to deal with them and the lighter color of your hair can all be taken care of at the same time. Its no extra effort, it truly isn't. The lighter color will actually be so much more flattering to your skin, and complexion. Just because she has been promoting her book lately, I have seen Barbara Walters everywhere this week, now she has beautiful hair color for an elderly lady, she has a talented colorist with a great eye. I'm sure no one here is anywhere close to her age, but you get the idea, hopefully.

Gray, or white hair occurs when the hair bulb stops producing melanin. Gray hair is basically un-pigmented: it contains little underlying pigment, or none at all. Its white hair that appears gray by the reflection of darker hairs.

The concept of dominant underlying color helps to explain the way gray hair accepts artificial coloring. Cool colors do not cover gray as well as warm colors, because they do not contain what gray hair lacks, warmth. Warm hair coloring replaces the warm undertones, in effect filling (prepigmenting) the hair.

Manufacturers come up with formulation recommendations based on just average, normal hair in mind - - and its plain nuts. Who has average normal hair? No one in my 10,000 heads has ever had it, so somewhere they are hiding and I realize there has to be a base to go off of, but the case needs to be made super clear to you the public, which is why I am here. To try to help teach you all that buying one box will not color your hair properly, there are simply too many variables in hair texture, porosity, etc.. for one little box to have gorgeous color for you. Once you learn about your hairs particulars plus figure out your formula, then the magic can begin . . . at your hands!

RESISTANT HAIR Resistant and tenacious mean the exact same thing. A tenacious or resistant head of hair has a compact, unlifted cuticle which will RESIST absorption. Remember the cuticle, is like scales on a fish -- now think about those scales... laying down flat and not flexing. That is what a resistant hair is like and with that structure it will not accept hair color very easy, it resists the new color. The surface of the hair is slick, smooth and shiny. Resistant hair is sometimes said to have poor porosity, which is a very common trait of gray hair. It makes for a very difficult go of it, to color, although I have always found ways around the bugger problem.

One of the best tricks on the planet is to simply 'begin' using the best color for cuticle penetration, which is Renbow and that is one of many reason's I use it. Renbow is made by a famous Italian Colorist and is huge in Europe. The Line is so famous for its color penetration and quality that Paul Mitchell's entire new line of professional hair color is made by RENBOW, they call it PRIVATE LABEL. That is the only one I know for sure, I don't want to guess at it, but am fairly certain they make a couple others...they use a BEESWAX base, so its pretty easy to pick out, for those of you that have purchased it, once you get past the "mixing' (its a bit harder to mix) part, the colors are stupendous. You can do things with it like apply from the root to the ends without build-up! The absolute best mix for the most resistant gray hair on the planet is to mix Renbow's permanent Colorissimo Plus Renbow's RenColor!

'Tube' (in a tube) colors are the best for penetration and color and 'bottle' colors are the best for color and shine, add the 2 together and B I N G O, you have the Crème de la Crème . This is one of my deep secrets I've been holding back, remember I was going to write a book, so for those of you with a fanatic hair addiction - an ultimate trick - especially with resistant and gray hair.

Resistant/gray hair takes longer than average to soften and penetrate, therefore I leave it on not only to the maximum time but often 10-15 minutes longer. (The color doesn't go "past" the color you picked). Use very low developer volumes but sometimes even that isn't enough, Resistant gray hair some times requires pre-softening or pre-pigmentation.

Pre- softening the hair : to pre-soften those tough wiry gray hairs, apply a 20% peroxide to pop open the hair cuticle and soften the hair so that it will easily accept any color that is applied. Apply the peroxide, comb it through the hair, leave it on for 5-10 minutes, depending on your hair, and then rinse off. Then apply the desired color.

Personally I have never had to do this procedure, I have found with Renbow I never needed to, this was written for those that for one reason or another need it.

If you are interested in Renbow's products, > send email to Killerstrands@gmail.com -- the color charts are posted in the FILES section of our GOOGLE GROUP: http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands

and for new members your first couple Posts are moderated, hang in there everything is fine.

A couple more Posts on Gray hair and the journey will be complete {for now} ;-) Killer Chemist

Fancy Meeting You Hair . . .

couple of Killerstrands monthly reminders...







just to keep you aware of what to avoid to help hair be strong & healthy...all 12 of these I have witnessed myself change in people when they have quit - their hair improves - substantially.



Just this week a long time client ( my closest,die hard clients still drive to my home - they refuse to give up on me)of mine quit smoking of about 25 years when she had booked some plastic surgery...so I decided to tell her again my theory on smoking and the health of hair, when she was NOT smoking. I have been watching her healthy hair go down the tube in the last few years See > though she had great hair for 47 years,it caught up to her, and when it did it moved very quickly. She quit 4 months ago and this appointment her hair was beautiful, healthy, shiny and full of luster AND her sides have grown in..I honestly think she has not returned to smoking because of the health change in her hair.

Which is terrific.

Just send me an email with "Product Order" in the Subject, I answer those first.

With every order comes a detailed color formulation work-up, I will help you calculate exactly what you need for your individual CRIB COLORIST formula.

The Color charts to all the lines will be posted this week-end, when asking for a color formulation work-up the one and only true way for me to help is for you to send me at least 2 photos of your hair up pretty close - I never realized how much the sense of touch and sight were imperative to color formulation - until I began doing it Online!

Once we determine what you need I get your zip code to calculate shipping charges, then send a "REQUEST FOR FUNDS" through PAY PAL, which has turned out to be the most simple - easy and Secure methods of web paying there is, everyone has loved it so far.

All my hair color comes with

• the appropriate developer/ Wella Koleston Perfect Permanent color- $16.00\ tube


• gloves / Wella Color Touch - Demi Permanent - $18.00\ tube


• tail comb (for parting) / Renbow Colorissimo - Ren Color - Crazy Color-$18./$16./$11.


• free sample of THRIVEN


• plastic cap / Redken Levitation Oil Bleach - $20.00 \ 1 Kit=2 apps. 2 Comes with 2 volumes/suggest: 20 vol. & 40 vol.

All other items can be quoted as well. . . . . MAGMA the COLORED bleach is available this is is the most amazing but expensive product...bleaches

and tones in 1 STEP!! There are reds & cool blonde's

ONLY so far.

Toner or Tone Him; Either Way its a Kick Ass Solution, For A Way Too Common Hair Problem

Toners are a long time celebrity secret,

not the colored conditioners they try to sell you

As I wrote this I realized that I keep forgetting to point out the celebrity WHO-HA that I have been involved with. I leave myself notes to use celeb photos...and forget as well ....why? I don't like people to set unexpected & unrealistic goals, and that happens with the celebrity race. I dislike using them as a reference, think society has gotten all out of whack about them and gone apeshit crazy over the bizarre worship. Some of my best friends have been in the genre and , Holy Batshit - Batman . .they're as nutty as the rest of us.

RENCOLOR TONERS: Notice the
Coral Rose and the Petal Rose !
they are gorgeous!

I have lived and worked in that business for close to 30 years, in 2 completely different aspects, but still. I have 2 daughters, both successful, one a film Producer http://imdb.com/name/nm1362747/ at the age of 26; has produced 4 studio Feature Films and is the youngest member of the Producers Guild of America. The other a photographer, a very successful independent photographer http://www.cheyenneellis.com/ shoots a lot of celebrities and is a master of that program you've all heard of: Photo Shop. Through all of that you cannot believe the amount of hair facades & tricks I have been around, seen and invented.

All of them .

I know everyone is interested in celebrity "everything", I am just trying to point out that most of what I say comes from that world, I just neglect to point it out most of the time - I hope you will remember that. Toners are a total celebrity luxury, and they really don't need to be. Applying a toner is so simple and so easy. . . anyone can do it, they really can.

TONER: A pastel color to be used after lightening

Toners are semi permanent, demi permanent, and permanent hair color products that are used primarily on lightened(pre-lightened) hair to achieve pale and delicate colors. They are applied to the lightest degree of contributing pigment that remains after the de-colorizing process. You may hear the term "double-process" application in association with a Toner. That means the first process is the application of the lightener; the second process is the application of the toner.

I try to explain it to newbie's in the chair using the reference to a "Nylon" on a leg. The leg is one color(white) and if you want it to look tan> you don't buy brown tights...you buy a "tan" colored nylon, opaque - sheer nylons. That is what a Toner is.... Opaque-sheer-pastel-color that slips over the hair. So you slip the nylon on the leg and poof - you have a Tan leg. Same thing with blond hair, applying the toner is exactly like the nylon, only the toner covers all the strands of your hair with the opaque-sheer- pastel color.

Why do I say "anyone can do it"? What's the difference between this color and any other? The hardest part of this process? Access to getting them!

A toner is a very light color usually a Level 10, sometimes a Level 9 or even an Level 8. So its a very light color to make it a toner, the goal is only to deposit color so one uses a 6 Volume - 10 Volume - 15 Volume - 17 Volume - are the 4 levels of Peroxide I have in my Lab for this purpose.

{ Remember like a "nylon"} . So you have a low volume peroxide and a HIGH Level of Color which makes for "NO" lifting action. Therefore the chemical reaction is very mild, no color is being lifted out of the hair....so you don't need gloves (use them anyway) , the color does not stain your hands, or the furniture!, and there is NO line of demarcation, so you can kind of slap it on {although "I" never do}, being careful to make at least 1/2" parts to apply the product. Its just not that critical - I have put them on myself {a LEVEL 8RG-red-gold} without even looking at the back, just doing it by feel. Apply it every where then comb it through.... wham bam thank you mamn.

Its even easier than applying those color conditioners, it truly is because there is NO MESS from the color pigment. ++ the biggest advantage to me is you are not screwing your hair up for your next color. Just be sure to apply the last toner application 2 weeks before your next appointment or the next time you will color your hair.

What do you need to apply toners? I use the tint brush and tint bowl method, I'm a colorist, I doubt I will ever be able to break that habit. But truthfully - for a toner - those dumbass bottles I see at the beauty supply should work just fine > If you buy Color Touch, the ratio is 1:2 which makes up 6 whole ounces of product with one tube. One tube will do 1 head of super long <> super thick hair. Everyone else may get 2 applications out of the one tube. I have re-priced the Colour Touch, as it comes with the developer, tail comb and gloves for $18.00 - so its my homemade Kit <> THE RIGHT WAY.

Toners & Uses(samples)

• Toning highlights to give warmth ( gets ride of 'gray' highlights)


• Color Touch 9/36-Light Golden Violet Blonde (sugg.)


• Tone down Brassy highlights - CT 10/01 Lightest Ash Blonde


• Platinum toned Gwen Stefani style- combined Colour Touch 10/89 + CT 10/7 Cafe Latte


• Tone blocks of platinum - silver - CT 8/81 Silver


• Molly - I used 10/6 Lightest Violet Blonde - was out of 10/89 the strongest yellow-killer


• Coral Rose - RenColor - for Fun And Fashion!

If you click on these charts these are the Color Touch Color Charts, the top 2 rows are the colors usually considered "toners".

I suggest studying these charts just spend some time looking at them, it will help the "level system" sink in. We will review them again and some additional ones, but for now try to become familiar with them.

Now to order any of the dozens of Professional toners I have - - - please join our Group . . . so you have access to our UNDERGROUND STORE .

First apply to the Group which gives you access to the Store :

http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands?hl=en

We have lots of Goodies there . . . . for hair health and hair color. . .