New Economy - New Pricing : SALE on Wella Pro Hair Color

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Fancy Meeting You Hair . . .

couple of Killerstrands monthly reminders...







just to keep you aware of what to avoid to help hair be strong & healthy...all 12 of these I have witnessed myself change in people when they have quit - their hair improves - substantially.



Just this week a long time client ( my closest,die hard clients still drive to my home - they refuse to give up on me)of mine quit smoking of about 25 years when she had booked some plastic surgery...so I decided to tell her again my theory on smoking and the health of hair, when she was NOT smoking. I have been watching her healthy hair go down the tube in the last few years See > though she had great hair for 47 years,it caught up to her, and when it did it moved very quickly. She quit 4 months ago and this appointment her hair was beautiful, healthy, shiny and full of luster AND her sides have grown in..I honestly think she has not returned to smoking because of the health change in her hair.

Which is terrific.

Just send me an email with "Product Order" in the Subject, I answer those first.

With every order comes a detailed color formulation work-up, I will help you calculate exactly what you need for your individual CRIB COLORIST formula.

The Color charts to all the lines will be posted this week-end, when asking for a color formulation work-up the one and only true way for me to help is for you to send me at least 2 photos of your hair up pretty close - I never realized how much the sense of touch and sight were imperative to color formulation - until I began doing it Online!

Once we determine what you need I get your zip code to calculate shipping charges, then send a "REQUEST FOR FUNDS" through PAY PAL, which has turned out to be the most simple - easy and Secure methods of web paying there is, everyone has loved it so far.

All my hair color comes with

• the appropriate developer/ Wella Koleston Perfect Permanent color- $16.00\ tube


• gloves / Wella Color Touch - Demi Permanent - $18.00\ tube


• tail comb (for parting) / Renbow Colorissimo - Ren Color - Crazy Color-$18./$16./$11.


• free sample of THRIVEN


• plastic cap / Redken Levitation Oil Bleach - $20.00 \ 1 Kit=2 apps. 2 Comes with 2 volumes/suggest: 20 vol. & 40 vol.

All other items can be quoted as well. . . . . MAGMA the COLORED bleach is available this is is the most amazing but expensive product...bleaches

and tones in 1 STEP!! There are reds & cool blonde's

ONLY so far.

CRIB COLORIST - Become a Home Hair Colorist the Professional Way

Color:

2/0 Darkest Brown 3/0 Dark Brown 4/0 Medium Brown 5/0 Light Brown 6/0 Dark Blond 7/0 Medium Blond 8/0 Light Blond 10/01 NA Natural Lightest Ash Blond 9/01 Natural Very Light Ash Blond 9/16 Very Light Ash Blond 7/1 Medium Ash Blond 5/1 Light Ash Brown 10/03 Lightest Beige blond 9/03 Very Light Beige Blond 9/3 Very Light golden Blond 7/3 Medium Golden Blond 5/3 Light Golden Blond 8/71 Frosty Light blond 7/71 Frosty Medium Blond 6/71 Frosty Dark blond 5/71 Frosty Light Brown 4/71 Frosty Medium Brown 6/35 Sand 9/36 Very Light Golden Violet blond



Color:





Color:

What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In

Wella's "Color Touch" Line of demi permanent hair color

This is hard for me, I will say this is the first 'reveal' from my arsenal of secret weapons. I have not quite stressed the importance & significance of my personal Arsenal of Secret Weapons of Hair, the group I have not had the backbone to crack open yet. Within my arsenal , as with all top Stylists, I have absolute ... undeniable ... solutions to these problems:

• Gray coverage - 100% {hair color formula}


• growth spurt for hair


• off the chart SHINE


• solution for damaged strands


• Recipe for hair conditioner


• Solution to thinning hair for women (just the beginning)

I have a couple dozen of these that I have held back on, waiting for just the right moment to "reveal" to Killerstranders. Its hard...you keep these secrets for an entire career - become known for the dynamic results ... and then ... to do a complete 180 and reveal . . all those treasures. Most of us at this level plan on writing a book, I did. I would still like to. I can see that the level of my tricks are a bit over everyone's head - but I think as soon as you begin to use them and get more comfortable with the vocabulary and techniques you will realize & appreciate them, I hope you listen and learn and realize what a wonderful little treasure most of you have stumbled upon. I still feel this site is one of those rare reasons you THANK THE LORD for the Internet! If you follow my guidance you will have truly learned the upper elite method of tackling hair - hair color and hair health issues - the professional way. I've flipped through some of the other hair books on the market, and either I have done a lot more research than the other colorists/stylists or they are just not doing the "big reveal" as I have always hoped to do. I'm still reeling from just the trauma of writing this reveal, on the flip side I can't wait for you all to try them.

When I wrote the 1st page of this series, I had decided not to tell Killerstranders about the true wonders of Color Touch, so I went off on the Color Charm Demi Line, which is a decent line and have heard nothing but positive results in regards to it. Today, it just seemed ridiculous to keep something like that a secret...what for? Who for? Why not? Its an inner battle I have with myself, I thought I would share, so you see that I am not just rambling off brands and pointless recommendations. That was not, nor is not...the point of this site.

This question has plagued me so, that some mornings I wake up and just think, I am going to list every single secret and get it over with. . . which is equally as idiotic.

All top Colorists/Stylists in the USA, Canada & UK are like that, every last one. We have spent a long time perfecting different formula's - different tricks so when we get that call to color hair for that hair color commercial, print ad, photo shoot or editorial - the hair we color will be the shiniest hair on the planet, or that will be your last call. That is how utterly important it is to have these type of tricks in the arsenal. Wella's Color Touch Line is the line I know dozens of top Colorists (besides me) use, as that one secret hair color weapon that can be surpassed by no other.

We use Color Touch "under" the final color, one way around > "did you use the 'actual' product" you are selling - problem.. We will use it 'over' the final color and call it a "rinse"(hee hee) There have been times I have used just "Color Touch" and the shoot was for a completely different product. That's just Hollywood, boys and girls. I'm not here to blow whistles, photo shoots are not a court of law, there is nothing more phoney than a photo shoot or the production of a commercial.

That being said, let me finish my schpeel on Semi & Demi-Permanent Color.

As I was trying to stress a true semi permanent color is one with NO developer or "activator" they are a DIRECT DYE or PREFORMED DYE...because they color the hair directly 'without' developer. That is how the category needs to stay. Never purchase a semi permanent color that has a second bottle of "whatever liquid" to mix into it...this is one of the single most abused categories by the big hair color companies. Misleading the public by stating their product is a "semi-permanent", because they know full well there is no laws they are technically breaking. But, come on...with the hundreds of dis-satisfied customers I met over the years, you know they had to hear about it over and over at corporate headquarters. Many modern semi's are really oxidation products, Oxidation hair coloring oxidizes. or combines with oxygen, as it processes.

Semi Permanent products color the hair without an oxidation process,they simply stain the cuticle and to some degree the cortex. Being a direct dye they are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, but are much larger than the indirect dyes of permanent hair coloring. It is self penetrating, relying on plain ole absorption to enter the hair. Where the hair is more porous, it becomes more stained. These products are usually alkaline, which increases absorption by softening and swelling the hair somewhat. Heat processing in combination with the use of foils is a terrific tool as well it helps penetration therefore lengthening the staying power.

Demi permanents are basically a hybrid. Part Semi - - - part permanent. A semi permanent with a developer, a no lift (no lighten) permanent hair color.

Advantages of DEMI-PERMANENT color over Semi-permanent hair color:

• greater penetration


• more deposit


• incredible Shine


• better coverage on gray


• natural appearance


• lasts longer


• more intensity


• better overall coverage

Some demi's, depending on porosity may lighten the natural pigment...if that does happen , in my opinion it has reached into the "permanent" line of color.

Use the Figures of Hair to notice the difference in the Cuticle, the Cortex, and the Medulla. . . . and where the color molecules go to on each one. Its easy to see the hybrid of the Demi permanent hair colors.

The primary defining characteristic of the hair coloring categories is duration....how long the color change lasts.

The Demi's are really designed for almost everyone that enters the Salon - deposit-only hair color is a wonderful thing. Demi's and especially Color Touch have a conditioning effect, they shine and bulk up the hair...so just tell me which one of you doesn't want shinier, fuller, more lustrous hair?

This is the secret, we have used for the past 10 years, I am making the entire line of Wella's Color touch available to you. That's how much I believe in it and want you to experience its wonders. If you need a toner, because you're a yellow blond, you want to add some low lights in mink beige, or you want the exact toner that Pink & Gwen use you now have access to them all. Color Touch even has a "SILVER" (another of my secret weapons).... leave this Silver on in foils for 30 minutes with heat, cover with Clairol's Glorious Grey's and this Silver can and will last for 10-14 days! That's HUGE.

Here's a link to one of the 4 online color charts of Color touch.http://www.wellausa.com/consumer/products_consumer/international_line_consumer/color_touch/swatch_charts/classic.jsp Which in no way comes close to doing Color Touch justice.

What I will do........ for $19.00 :

• 1 tube of Color Touch
• plus developer to go along with it
• 1 pair of Gloves -
• 1 Tail Comb to part hair with
• 1 sample of "IN DEPTH" After-Color Treatment

There are 2 choices of developer,

1. "Gentle" for "toning"(7 Volume) or more conservative methods....or
2. "Intensive" (16 Volume) used for gray coverage, coverage, and most other instances.

1 Tube of color should be enough to do 2 heads of hair unless you have very long - thick hair. 1 Color Touch Kit will be $19.00 plus shipping.

I am working on way to better display the colors to you - please send me an email if you are interested Killerstrands@gmail.com

the Autopsy of 1 line of Hair Color (#1)

Wella's 'Color Touch' Demi Permanent Line of Hair Color
# 2 : Wella's Color Touch Demi Perm Haircolor

Demi permanent Hair color is a wonderful little secret, the public doesn't seem to quite understand its advantages, so I'm here to spill the beans, or blow the top off . Education, what a wonderful thing.

I make Wella's Color Touch available to you by just sending an email and putting "Order" in the subject line Killerstrands@gmail.com

This will actually be on the subject of both Semi & Demi permanent colors, there is no way to correctly define Demi color without completely understanding Semi. They are like twins...identical twins. Came from the same egg, look exactly alike on the outside but on the inside are completely different. UNIQUE and beautiful.

Semi Permanent Hair color: no-lift hair color that lasts approximately haircut to hair cut which partially penetrates the hair shaft, is not mixed with a developer and is incapable of lightening the natural pigment. Which means this can only be used to color the same or 'darken' hair. Basically it 'coats' the hair shaft. Excellent toner + adds tons of shine. Adding Semi permanent to your hair is a very long time celeb secret, it is a messy endeavor and a time consuming one but it honestly does add shine-luster-thickness and strength to hair - it really does. It does only work on one color, if you have multiple colors - nope!

ITS SUPER EASY TO DO TO ONESELF and I would highly suggest it for you first timers.An excellent choice for a 'first' color service for many reasons

• no maintenance of 'new' growth



• fades with each shampoo



• no ammonia



• does not lighten



• gentle as shampoo to the hair



• used right out of the bottle

As much as I love Semi-permanent color, I'd like to warn you about the many variations. As usual do NOT purchase a boxed kit claiming to be a semi-permanent color for 3 main reasons:

1. 
   If the box has you "mix" 2 bottles together: its NOT a true semi-permanent (most do)



2. USA has no universal guideline defining "semi permanent" = leeway can be enormous (& dangerous)



3. Lastly, from my own (in salon) experience: the most harmful of categories of boxed hair color, most people came in for repairs. From Clients comments I learned they were "misled".

If you mix any hair color with developer ANY....it will create a line of demarcation and will not simply shampoo out easily, so to me and most colorists that would not be under the category of semi perm. That is why they came out with this new category called "DEMI" Permanent. For the 'next step' up. That way we all know what we are buying and applying!

Again, there are no rules nor laws as to what exactly 'is' a semi permanent and if it can or cannot have a developer. Which is the basis of the problem. The company is not doing anything wrong, we as a country are...
by not having any type of guidelines.

I'm not one of those that tries to fix "global problems" truthfully I never even like to mention crap like this. But, in my eyes its the basis of the problem. I could try really hard to "blaim" the big hair color manufacturers, but that's like shooting myself in the foot, when in fact, its not even true! Truth - Reality - Honesty... I strive to live my life by these words.

The FDA needs to create a lot bigger Cosmetic and Hair Division and within that... both divisions need to come up with a simple doctrine that states what a 'temporary' - 'semi-permanent' - 'demi-permanent' - and 'permanent' hair color is. Define, explain and clarify each one and hand it out to the 2 billion dollar a year hair color business.

That just seems like a very large sector to let run rampant on the American people, without some structure, guidelines and at the bare minimum a piece of paper that defines the cosmetic chemicals that are allowed to be applied to the human body - - - - - safely. My Lord its something a decent small business class could put together from a local junior college.

Enough said.

Thing is . . . using developer means you are opening the cuticle and letting the color into the shaft of the hair... and that (by old school definitions) is not semi permanent, in any decent Colorists book. Again - no laws / no standards/ no guidelines to go by. Therefore using any of the variations on the theme of semi-perm on the market can be dangerous and disappointing to those of you trying out hair color for the first time. I'm not trying to complain, what I'm trying to do is educate to prevent heartache and disappointment, something I see in this business way more than I ever expected to.
There are 2 main types of semi permanent colors:
Aniline Derivative semi permanent hair color : which partially penetrate, partially coat
Polymer Semi permanent: dye that coats : not penetrates (Crazy Colors) to me the true semi's.
Neither of these will lighten the hair and are also know as direct dyes.

A common misconception of semi's is that they will always fade out after 4-6 shampoos. Not True. Many different factors apply: porosity of hair, texture, if its the 1st application or the 4th makes a huge difference.

Many of the hair color companies are eliminating semi-permanent hair color (huge mistake in my eyes) - except for what most of us refer to as "crazy colors" you know those bright punky wild colors. Those come directly out of a jar/tube and are true semi-permanent colors. Sadly, Wella does not make a semi permanent color and I will take an entire post to go into the advantages and the wide range of Semi's - but for now this is for the Demi's.

Wella's Demi Permanent Hair Color - Color TOUCH:
is similar in nature to semi-perm but it is longer lasting. It is formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten)color. It has a smaller tint molecule & therefore is able to penetrate the hair shaft. this formula generally imparts vivid color results...the unknown secret to the public. I feel if the public knew how wonderful this category of hair color is that it would eliminate a whole lot of Salon visits.

Yes, its THAT GREAT!

Demi-permanent hair colors are ideal for covering un-pigmented hair, refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring, low-lighting, ribbons, drips, filling, this is the single handiest category of hair color >in my humble opinion.
Demi Permanents are excellent for covering gray under 30% and especially for covering gray on men!

What I am going to do now is make that available to you through Killerstrands and PAY PAL.
Color Touch is THE premier line of Hair Color
It is my favorite line, the most handy - with the widest range....this line produces SHINE like you see in those damn commmercials - "why" & "how" you ask?
Because this is the line we use to shoot the commericals and have used for years

Here is what Wella says about its demi perm line:
Demi-Permanent Hair color
Long-lasting, deposit-only hair color Colour Touch Demi-Permanent Hair color is designed for use immediately after a chemical service or by itself. Formulated for application to pre-shampooed, towel-dried hair.
Hair color That is:
• Ammonia-free.
• Deposit only, no lift.
• Long-lasting
Ideal For:
• First-time color users
• Matching client's existing color to blend gray without noticeable outgrowth
• Adding new richness or fashion tones to client's existing hair color
• Refreshing faded hair color
• Immediate use after lightener or permanent wave services
• Coloring relaxed hair (Wait 2 weeks after relaxer service.)
• Blending up to 50% gray
• Quick color service Processes in 30 minutes or less

Hair color That Offers:
• 25 inter-mixable, fashionable shades to create a wide range of colors plus Clear for additional shine, be sure to take advantage of this
• Economical 1:2 mixing ratio. Up to two applications per tube
• Optimal results when mixed with Color Charm Activating LotionI will say I truly think this line is not marketed very well because of how great, handy and easy it is to work with. This is just the most perfect first color for covering gray....If it fits your needs, you will not be disappointed.


If you are sensitive at all , be sure and do a strand test (mix up a small amount of the product, apply with a Q-tip behind your ear - overnight with a band-aid)....and follow directions on the box
Read them twice and make notes for yourself - PLEASE
Remember to get WELLA'S IN DEPTH, one of the single greatest finds on the planet, to follow up even this color service.

Stay tuned for part 2

TYPES OF HAIRCOLOR - 4

1} Temporary Hair Color

Temporary color is what many of you use at Halloween, it can be sprayed in and shampooed out. The pigment molecules in temporary color are large and therefore don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a 'coating action' ... that may be removed by shampooing

This type of hair color only makes a physical change not a chemical change in the hair shaft.

Temporary haircolors are available in a variety of colors & products, such as:

• color rinses applied weekly to add color
• colored mousses & gels used for slight color/dramatic effects
• hair mascara
• special effects
• color-enhancing shampoos/conditioners : the red/brunette/blond boosters so prevalent right now

2} Semi Permanent Hair color

Semi - Perm is color formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairs porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo. It lasts only 6 - 8 shampoos. It cannot lighten hair, so the change is minor and it does not require the maintenance of "new growth". It is formulated without AMMONIA and is generally as gentle to the hair as shampoo.

Many Semi-Perm colors can be used straight out of the bottle, some require an activator - which bothers me as I feel it should stay on the side of Semi-Perm.....or not. The activator develops the color pigments within the formula and helps to swell the cortex and open the cuticle for color penetration, which begins the difference between semi and demi permanent colors.

In order to understand why the BOXED HAIR COLOR Kits do not work, it is necessary to thoroughly understand 'what' : Semi....Demi....and Permanent Hair color is. So many of you will purchase one of the boxes that claims to "shampoo out in 8-10 washes and find out it doesn't. you wonder 'why'.... so many of you figure you must have done something wrong when you applied it, when in fact you are "set up to fail" to begin with by companies that truly do not give a damn by turning out a product that does not and could not work in a million years.

3} Demi Permanent Hair Color

The newest classification Demi perm is also called deposit only and referred to as 'semi' permanent by some manufacturers, it is similar to semi, but more long lasting. Some of the European companies have chosen to use super low volume peroxides to differentiate the semi from the demi lines. Honestly, it depends on the manufacturer, the Colorist or the school as to how it is defined. My education is Vidal Sassoon based which is known as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" so I think you'll be safe using my criteria.

I like to think of Demi Perm Colors as any color line that uses above 7 Volume and below 19 Volume Developer, which makes this the perfect category to be used on men's and any hair that needs to be strengthened. With those numbers , the only action that will happen is Deposit of color - no lift <> no lightening.

I am of the belief that depositing color in the hair strands of either gray, white, or simply middle-aged (weak) hair can add:

• strength
• shine
• illusion of thickness
• reduce frizz & tangles

This formula generally imparts vivid color results, and are ideal for covering un-pigmented hair,refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring and low-lighting.

By their very nature, demi's or deposit-only hair colors darken the natural hair color when applied. They cause little or no damage to the hair and are generally positioned as gentle and mild due to their low ammonia or no ammonia content. In recent years, many top colorists will apply demi to the 'lengths' of the hair while permanent is applied to the roots. This fights the build-up effect that can occur on previously colored hair and is also less aggressive, resulting in less damage.

The single best line in this category is WELLA's Color Touch Line, to date I have tested most every line and am still headstrong about that brand: its results & quality.

4} Permanent Hair Color

Permanent hair color is mixed with developer ( hydrogen peroxide) @ 20 Volume and above and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs. It is used to match,lighten and cover gray hair. Permanent hair color products generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints and peroxide.

The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors, which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules . These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out and why this is considered Permanent color. As a side note: to me permanent means : just that, and truthfully there is no such thing in hair color, not yet anyway. Shampoo fades the hair color as does the sun, heat, flat Irons, blow dryers...well you get the idea.

{ I look at the opposite and I truly feel there is no 'permanent' color yet, there should be color that stays the absolute TRUE color that came out of the tube that first day. I feel it is on its way and not too far off.}

COLOR FOR CURL

?Being a curl queen will mean you have absorbed and use every rule, trick and secret known to man for the solution & smoothing of frizz everywhere. There are dozens of tricks in all of which I am in the process of revealing for you curly-heads everywhere.

This solution might seem a bit of a stretch for some but I know there will be many who already practice it yet found it out completely by accident. Its not something advertised NOR talked about much, which baffles me as to ‘why’ not ?!?! Killer Strands will be sure to ram it into the ground - into this blog and into you curly-heads ‘ears’ as often and frequently as possible . .
my personal favorite solution to the Frizzy’s?

Hair color, but not any hair color, so please don’t have the car engine running already! The Hair color that solves the Frizzy’s is made by WELLA and called COLOUR TOUCH. I was truly fortunate in my early training, having the most brilliant Colorist take me under her wing giving me a head start on my classmates and the rest of the world. At Sassoon (back in the day) we had the lovely advantage of experimenting, testing and playing with every single hair color product on the market with 1 Academy here in Santa Monica and the other in London between the 2 we sampled & tested all hair color on the market which I continue to do today. In all of my work over the years, I make it a habit to stay current and most definitely within hair it is vital.

Within my hair color expertise, I find it necessary to experiment with each and every new product that comes out as new technologies are developed constantly. Some are good and terrific new inventions and some are just plain stupid….this one is brilliant and it is a line of color that no one has come anywhere close to. This line of colour is what’s called Demi-Permanent, in other words it ‘does not lighten’ it tints hair the same level or darker. This line of colour works absolute miracles on curly/frizzy hair, the way its made /the level of developer it uses is truly a small miracle on your curls & Frizz. Now, how you are going to get this color, is another tricky issue, its not sold in stores and is made for the color professional exclusively.

The professional formula of Color Touch enriches hair with vibrant color and brilliant shine. Hair transforming keratin evens out the hair structure and makes it possible for the shine illuminating pigments of Color Touch to attach to the hair more easily. The result: up to 50% more vibrant color.

Natural wax conditions the hair to create brilliant shine and vibrant color. This means up to 50 % more shine on previously untreated hair.

The creamy consistency of the professional Color Touch formula allows for even distribution on the hair’s surface. Combined with the equalizing properties of the shine illuminating pigments, the end result shows brilliant shine and beautiful, rich color.
Liquid Hair Keratin evens out and balances damaged areas of the hair structure for more even color results as it adds strength and volume while building fullness, shine and beautiful, rich color.

Wella’s exclusive, patented Shine Reflex Pigments penetrate more evenly into the hair providing superior deposit, tonality and durability. The higher pigment density delivers vibrant, intense color coverage. Natural emollients condition and soften the hair leaving it feeling silky smooth while helping to improve and even out the color balance. The ammonia-free formula provides for a gentle conditioning process.

The thicker formula with improved creamy viscosity helps the color stay where it is placed when using a bottle or bowl and brush to apply. Creative techniques are now easier, too, because the color stays in place and there is a noticeable improvement in color absorption further enhancing even color results. The pleasing fragrance makes it a more pleasant hair color experience for the colorist and client as well. You can go to Wella’s website for a referral to a Salon in your Area or email me and we will get the 2 of you hooked up …PLEASE we’d love photo’s, you will not believe the shine this colour puts out, they have mildly reformulated it 2 times I know of – with each one – even better!