Showing posts with label Techniques - Hair Color: Ribbons. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Techniques - Hair Color: Ribbons. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Sensitive Souls with Sensitive Scalps -- What About Hair Color?

What Color Options Are Available ?

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A small portion of people have sensitive skin and sensitive scalps, usually displayed by reddened and flaky skin after color applications. Some have such bad reactions, in the middle of the service, they need to have the color taken off immediately even.  With there being 2 completely different sensitivities, there are 2 separate answers for this problem. Let me get the serious, more radical one out of the way first.

This one is a syndrome... when it happened to me the first time, 3 years into my Salon experience...I will never forget it. Why? It was my daughters friends > identical twins, and it happened to both of them and it had never happened to me before. I was SO freaked out, I called my mentor back at Vidal Sassoon, which was the very first time I had, since leaving - - she knew exactly what I was talking about ... but in the 2 years at Sassoon and 3 years in the Salon I had never come across it? How rare is that?? Super, she said !  Vidal was a full service working Salon, so this was hundreds of thousands of people I'd seen and/or been around over those years.hot head 44

She explained it to me as this unusual lightening syndrome that affects a certain group of people ( she thought with a certain body chemistry) they have never been able to figure it out : 'who' exactly or 'why'. It simply does not happen to a large enough group for anyone to research it. The lightener (seemed to be any lighter than clients hair by a couple levels  & many but - not all  times. . . it was bleach) warms up in the first 30 minutes and the client feels the progressing warmth on their head, many times it is "first timers" - First time they have colored their hair, ever! It soon begins getting very HOT, and finally the twins screamed, I came running over to them and steam was coming out of the foils . . .I quickly yanked the foil work out... throwing it on the floor... I was so freaked out! The foils were continuing to steam and their hair and scalp was super hot . . .  it was the weirdest thing that had ever happened in a coloring application in all my days, still is. I'm hoping I find someone that this has happened to... if this is you ......will you PLEASE write a COMMENT at the bottom? So I can ask you a few questions??? Please? 71990490

The path is > take the foil work out . .shampoo immediately, put  Gleam or something similar on the scalp and never use lightener again. I've heard different stories about how sometimes it  goes away as one ages, as long as the twins were my kids friends it never went away for them.

Now for the majority of you with the normal mild-sensitive scalp, that just can't handle the color directly on your scalp in a minor way . . . the solutions are there and are not too horrible.

Sun Lights, Slices, Panels, Paint Drips, Pirouette, Veil, Weaves  etc..of color, are your best bet. It keeps the product OFF of your scalp with the color being IN THE FOILS. If you need Global Color (all-over) then a semi permanent with NO or LOW-Ammonia could be your option, by not being able to go lighter. The newest trend is many of larger companies are starting to come up with low or no ammonia hair color. What Ammonia does for hair color?  swells the cuticle, which lets the color in the hair strand to do its magic! dv1129017

What I don't quite understand is this: if ammonia swells the cuticle which is necessary for the hair color to get into the hair strand...what's the difference if they just find another chemical to do the same thing? Is it just the smell you don't like? Or what?? that you don't like?? Personally I don't have anything against ammonia, I know we need it to color hair properly. 

This type of question is above my level of cosmetic chemistry knowledge, so I ask questions of colleagues. Just like you do of me. I am told there are a few other chemicals that work exactly the same as ammonia and the companies will be using those.

My recommendation on this subject, is anyone that has even the slightest sensitivities in their body you should ask for a patch test or skin test, whatever they call it in your area - when booking the appointment. If you are sensitive and have never had color at ALL, you need to do 1 of 2 things:

  1. Ask whomever you made a appt.with for a 24 hour skin patch test. Making a 15 minute appt. the day before your real appt. If your skin has a pretty bad reaction - the day before even, call the Salon, ASAP.        OR
  2. Color your hair at home. This way you have all the control and know exactly 'what' is going 'where'. For this type scalp and/or skin I would NEVER EVER take the risk of using boxed hair color nor should you use any type of hair color from Sally's. I would try Color Touch - a demi permanent line - which is Wella's Euro brand of hair color and more gentle than pretty much any other line I know of. It can be used with 6 Volume of 16 Volume - very low developers, yet still a 24 hour skin test is necessary.

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In the works are a few lower ammonia and no ammonia color lines, I have a huge battle with the words "Natural"  &  "Organic"  . . . the Lines Reps come around to different Salons in the LA area to TEST Market them... so the Stylists can try them and we can give them our feedback. I have lost that little advantage, because of not being in the Salon which makes me sad. . . . BUT. . .I get feedback from colleagues. Lately I have heard good feedback about the line PRAVANA, I've bought some of my first colors and they have crazy colors that are apparently --remarkable!  I've written about them somewhere in the Blog I'm sure.

I always have my ear to SKY & GROUND for what's HOT & NEW coming out ... there are a few organic hair color lines on the conveyor belt.

Europe/England are the place where they will come from. The German Wella plant {I think} is where the brilliant new hair colors will stem from, we shall see.

I will point out to you that Pravana which I carry in the store ( in process of displaying all of it )...has about 10 colors that are all intermixable; if you are interested in this line please email : Killerstrands@gmail.com , put "PRAVANA" in the subject line.                      

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PRAVANA  BOTANICALS - HAIR COLOR

* Silk Degrees Botanical Hair Color
* The Natural Botanical hair color with Attitude!
* Plant BasedNo Peroxide - No Ammonia

I have not tested them yet but  the man that started this line is a well recognized pioneer in the hair color world. The tests are forth coming, when, and, if, we get anyone interested in the line.

Killer Chemist

Thursday, August 21, 2008

$5.Gas + $200. Highlights...got you down?



Highlights are History - the Sequel



Set aside the gloomy headlines and do something that might actually improve the situation. This site is based in exactly that, the basics and how to make your hair look like a million bucks for less. Highlights are History will be an on-going Post for Killer strands and I will number them, I'm determined to open readers eyes to the fact that era is over. That is just something no one in southern California asks for any longer nor should it be asked for anywhere. If you want blond hair and have brown, going "ALL OVER-Blond" -- see Reece to the left, she is all-over blond. Maybe you have a urge to see some blond lights added to your brown hair . . . at the end of this post you will 01-2007see the way to accomplish that with 6 foils! Yes . . . 6 !



A lot of hair color is moving away from time consuming highlights. As I've told you before; our styles, our colors, our general hair design, comes from England as that is the home of hair. The best hair stylists and the best hair colorists in the world live and work there, many here in the states won't acknowledge that, I have no idea why not. Find one celebrity wearing highlights, there are none. Think about that. Most of you might think Jennifer Anniston and Meg Ryan do - but they don't - - Ryan is wearing, one color blond. Anniston is wearing, slices - I will show you an example of, below.




Remember everyone wants the same thing, beautiful shiny hair that looks like a million bucks . . . which is usually done professionally, correct?



With the ability to purchase professional hair color from the KILLER COLOR CLINIC and now with detailed lessons on how to apply it, professional hair is within your reach for a relatively small amount of money. Spend a little bit of time reading and absorbing the techniques, then save your money while trying to learn - - and POOF - - you are ready to go. This service has not been available to the masses prior to this site, a new way to conquer $5.00 a gallon Gasoline.

There is even a discounted method of determining your hair color formula if all the posts and photo DEMO's provided aren't enough for you. There is the $25.00 Hair Color Consultation Service in which Killer Chemist works 1 on 1 with you to determine the formula you should use, giving you $10.00 of the $25.00 OFF of the first hair color purchase in addition to having a permanent 10% Discount off of Hair color products for 1 full year .

What a great deal in these times of a sluggish economy. I'm honestly trying to help and also offer a service not available before - a board certified cosmetologist, colorist and cosmetic chemist to help you start 'hair color as a hobby' for American women. That is the dream, help me make that dream come true.

With Killer Strands Store (called Killer Color Clinic), Just yesterday I lowered the price on all hair color to do MY part in helping KS readers and CRIB COLORISTS deal with the faltering economy. Part of the cost for Killer strands is having to re-package & package chemicals properly, if you have ever gotten a package from KS, I am sure that is more than apparent.


So what I am proposing is for many of you to think about ...is getting rid of the whole highlight idea. Please. Come on, how long have you been doing the exact same procedure? 5-10-15-20 years ? ? Its over, its tired and when was the last time you saw anyone in fashion,-- TV,--Film,-- or the Celeb world with highlights ? Everyone has one color hair with maybe a few slices, ribbons, blocks or panels of colors. No one wears highlights any more . . . they are history - - they are over.


Time for you to think economy anyway, think fashionable, think hip and cool. Do you know thinking hip now is thinking economy-minded? Even in Beverly Hills. Its no longer cool to spend exorbitant amounts of cash on ridiculous items.You can do this color at home and I am here to help you get this on the sta200453795-001rting blocks.



It's a different look now . . . and its something very accessible for most of us. The difference in color from the 'public' hair color (Sallys TYPE) to the 'professional' (Killer Color Clinic - TYPE) hair color that you now have access to. The quality of the color itself, it is loaded with moisturizers and conditioners that are inserted into your hair strands at the time of application.

The result ? ? ? Tons and Tons of SHINE.

Now, when you purchase a tube of color & a bottle of developer lets just say at SALLYS, and then you purchase a tube of Color & bottle of developer from Killer Color Clinic, what IS the difference?

EVERYTHING..........

The most important part of hair color to me is the QUALITY of the COLOR, HOW LONG it LASTS, Coverage and the pigment ( brilliance of color).

Color you purchase other than what you can get from me . . .PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR . . . just simply SUCKS. Before I started this project I had no idea the difference was so darn big. Well it is.
I most emphatically insist to you NOT to use any of that inferior Hair Color. All sorts of problems spring up, as a result of using them.

The only thing you should possibly purchase at Sally's and the like ..............bowls and maybe disposable gloves (but these weren't even the right type nor were easy to work in like my brand). . . their Clips even stink. The idea of Sally's is clever but they have no one absolutely NO ONE doing Quality Control!

The moisturizers and conditioners included in Professional hair color, plus the quality of the hair color pigment itself is a better a finer quality. The quality of the developer is different as well, I only just discovered this item myself in the past year as well. Experimenting with the lower cost developers opened my eyes to the fact that they don't have the amount or quality of moisturizers and conditioners as their more elite cousins. Remember, when hair color goes in the hair strand so do the conditioners, so do the moisturizers ... a perfect time to get them 'into' the hair strand. There truly is no other time for this to take place.

That way when you come out of a hair Salon you look at your color and go , "WOW" this color is just KILLER... I can never get this at home. So you continue going to the Salon. Now you can get it at home, along with a personalized 1 on 1 Home Hair Color Consultation.

Now some of these companies, Wella (because they are so big) make both, Salon color AND Home color. Why? They try to capture BOTH markets. They make an inferior color to sell to people for home color and they sell a premium color to Stylists for Salon level color. I never thought about this until this past year - - but it is a completely separate entity - - and how weird that really is. Why do they make a crappier hair color to sell to the people at home? Because they cannot afford to get their hair colored in a Salon, they don't get the best hair color to apply to their hair ?? Why not??
That really bothers me.

That's when I went forward with the Killer Color Clinic. I really wanted to help produce Crib Colorists and begin Hair Color as a hobby, I just cannot see why it cannot become the next "cooking". I think all of you have the capacity to learn how to color your hair at home using Premium Hair Color, you just need some lessons - - that's it.


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How many of you know Hair Stylists that know absolutely nothing about hair color? I have learned from this web site (from all the emails) that there are thousands of licensed Stylists that know ZIP - ZERO- NOTHING - about hair color. Another fact I had no idea existed. I worked at Vidal Sassoon Academy where everyone is trained the exact same way, then went to 2 Salons in Malibu...in those Salons there were only 2 of us out of many that understood hair color. I thought that had to be highly unusual and rare, there were valid reasons for that being the truth where I was. That's another part that bothers me, if there are so many hair stylists that have no idea how to apply hair color properly, there are many on this site that have resorted to doing their own hair color because of where they live and who does hair color in their place of residence. They would go to a Hair Salon but there isn't one where they live in which not even ONE of the stylists there knows anything about applying hair color properly.

So they cannot have access to good hair color . . . solely because of where they live.

Just doesn't seem fair to me.

Now you all have the opportunity to learn about hair color the exact way hair stylists learn about it. I teach on this web site.... hair color.... more in-depth than they do in Cosmetology schools - so you now have the resource -- I hope you use it. If there is something I am missing that makes you not understand it, Please - write me, comment at the end of the most recent post, I look at those the first of every day. Its the very easiest and best way to get in touch with me especially about the Blog.














Highlights are History will be an ongoing Series for Killer strands, in an effort to suggest and recommend various ways to get readers to move away from the 20 year trend that has played itself out. I'm tired of looking at it, and so is the rest of the world, if you don't want to try slices or ribbons, try going one color. My absolute favorite color on the boards? A level 6 - AB (ash-brown) - rich chocolate brown. Do you know why I like that so much? . . . . . I never see it.


Now for Polly, she has had one side of her hair done with 6 back to back slices - remember that Demo?

I used RED-VIOLET, BLEACH, & Level 4 DARK BROWN??? That is on the right side of the hair, I wanted to Demo something else on the other side. Now with these mannequins you are not able to use blonds, other than bleach ( do you know why ? - they are tinted brown - - color does not LIFT color )- if you don't get it - please ask.
This is a demo showing......... you have dark hair
that is tinted dark and you want to change it, without doing the De-Colorization technique's that I recommended. You may use bleach and apply these 6 slices which is basically what I am doing with this doll head . . . as it IS tinted brown hair -- it is NOT virgin (although that is how it shows up!).
Now what I demonstrate is 6 slices of the same color (bleach) on the other side. Instead of placing them back to back I have put about 3/4 of an inch of hair in between each foil.

6 FOILS + BLEACH = using SLICES





We will call her Holly and Holly will speak to you ( using my education and knowledge).




Holly needs to deal with how much gas costs and she is tired of the brown she tinted her hair, so she will not be going to the Salon , not with Killer Strands to help. She saw creme bleach for sale, that is the professional bleach In the Killer COLOR CLINIC, there are conditioners and lipids added to creme bleach - she read, which sounds a lot more forgiving...added to that the moisturizers and conditioners that will come with the developer that comes with. This way my hair will be in the best condition possible when done. I can do it............. it cannot be that hard.




We will only be doing the one side of the head as we did the other side with another Demo a while ago.


I tried very hard to make this parting look exactly like a piece of apple pie, that is my trick as long as it is the shape of my favorite dessert............ than I was told it will be perfect. She told me to make sure I parted the triangle all the way to the very back of my head and in the exact middle. That way I can put one of my slices of light in the back, on both sides, . . . . it will be in the back of my head and I should be able to do it myself with my rear-view mirror's I have set up on my walls. I've tried it once before and it worked pretty easy. The piece in the back is really skinny so its easy.




This is the Creme bleach I bought and saw on Killerstrands Color Clinic, I want to do all I can to protect my hair and its condition, I have been pretty bad to my hair in the past couple years.......... I need to make up for that (ssh!)




OK - here are the foils I bought too, I didn't care about the color, I cared about the fact that they were embossed and that made them not slip and being as I don't know what I am doing I wanted to take away"that" from the difficulty of doing foils for me. I bought 20 of these embossed foils for $2.00 (10 cents each) when I bought the Creme Bleach. They were so much easier to use than most. Now, you absolutely MUST make the edge that I am showing you. Fold it once and then again....a very thin fold as you can see... that fold helps the color from leaking out.




The very first parting needs to be made to part OFF the hair surrounding the face so that it is left out. Leaving it the color the hair is , in my case I wanted it to be brown so I didn't have a weird light blond stripe right against my face. That would look funny I thought, when you see me at the end you can decide.




See how super thin the very first slice of hair I take is??? I had a hard time taking the picture and showing you at the same time but I think you can see. Its less than 1/8 of an inch ! I place that first foil very close to the slice of hair, notice that so when you do it you will do it the same. I had bought a mannequin and practiced on her for a while, it was fun so... I didn't care -- I wish they would have taught us this when we were in school. Remember when we had HOME EC.? I think we should have sewing, cooking and hair color. Why Not I wonder? More people I know color their hair, than cook. Maybe it should be the other way around. . . >>but it isn't !




Notice where I place the foil and where i begin to paint the creme bleach...I leave the distance of the fold BLANK - - - and why do I do this? I learned my lesson, all bleaches and all hair colors ...."swell" when they are processing, which means they grow and the last thing you want is the bleach leaking out of the end ...as it will make FUGLY spots on the hair that you will not like .... so be very careful.




This is too close - I wanted you to see what is too close....just a tiny bit on the right side> see it??...so I took the foil off and re-did it...but I didn't photograph the re-do . . .


Just be aware that happens ...


if its too close to the fold then re-do it....but that's a lot harder to maneuvar so try very hard to be very careful at the fold.




Finally I have the first foil done and am closing it up. Fold it in half - - first. Then fold the sides in....




Now am leaving "that much" of the hair OUT OF THE FOIL >>>> about 3/4 " so there is some of the brown in between each foil .




The same very thin parting. . . which is the "SLICE" of hair...appropriately named once I figured out what I was doing.




The same pattern is repeated basically all the way up this side of the hair. Now something she taught me that I did not pick up on myself... when I am using bleach, I can time it so it all ends up 'done' at the same time. Like here for example... I'm not real fast so I mixed one small amount of bleach for this side....and mixed the creme bleach with 20 Volume { another good part of ordering from Killer Color Clinic - you can ask for whatever volume of developer you want - i got 1/2 -- 20 Volume & 1/2 -- 40 Volume} . Now to make it so the 2 sides end up "done" at the same time...[like making a big dinner!] I mixed up another small batch of Creme bleach with 40 Volume for the other side. Remember 40 Volume work twice as FAST as 20 Volume...so doing the other side with 40 Volume - makes it so both sides are at the same lightness at the same time - it was perfect !




This was also too close, and I took a DRY Q-Tip and wiped this one off on the fold....so it wouldn't leak. I used a bigger brush and had a harder time!




Again, see how thin the hair is for the slice? Remember that, thinness is perfectness in SLICES




Another slice to be made. . as my trip up the side of the head continues. Make my partings clean and straight its important




Another Slice of light . . .




Applying the bleach and 20 Volume . . . . .




Closing the 3 foils up and continue on . . .




As you go up the side - - see how the width of the slice narrows? ? The last one is not even 1 inch wide!




Refresh the bleach midway up by taking a small squirt of 20 Volume and mixing it in to the mixture




Be sure you keep the angle of each foil correct so that your foils sit like this and end up over the eyeball, if your foils end up any other direction at all then something is wrong. Be sure to check




Now, if the room is cold or there is a draft and its not at least 75-80 degrees in the room where you are. . . then heat up your foils for a minute or three, like I had to. This is how I do it at home, you can buy a diffuser for any hair dryer, and everyone should have a hair dryer of some sort. The diffuser just fits over the end and slows down the wind of the dryer....Diffuses it I guess you could say. ha ha! They are super inexpensive, you can get those foam ones for $5.00 or under.... the kind I have was $9.00 I have had for 10 years! So it works like a heat source... I live somewhere warm so lots of times I will sit outside in the sun for 10 minutes.






>> When the foils are done and that is so individual, you will have to determine "how long" yourselves.


>> Take the foils out, and rinse completely untill all traces of the bleach are gone....


>> Lightly shampoo with SLS-Free Shampoo -- Rinse -- towel dry hair....


>> Apply IN-DEPTH HAIR Treatment ( "after-treatment") let set on hair for 5 minutes at least...


>> Rinse & apply Detangler or THRIVEN or whatever your regimen is


I always apply THRIVEN after using Bleach, it is the single best conditioner and after- treatment in addition ot IN-DEPTH there is. You never know you colored your hair when you follow up with THRIVEN.




*** Then Blow Dry




Well, this is your results . . . after 6 Foils - - - Creme Bleach + 20 Volume and 40 Volume and is called Slices of Light.


See the 1/2 inch of brown that was left out right next to the face that I chose.


You can change it , I just wanted to point out what I was doing. See how its brown next to my face then - - next to that - - there is a blond slice? I think it looks to fake to have the blond right on my face.




Here is what it looks like on the top of my head, so you can see what it looks like with just 6 foils and bleach. I think you really get your money worth, what about you?




Here is the side I wanted you to see the "6" Slices . . . see the tiny one - - in the back which is why you do not need to do the back of your hair, it is taken care of with the front parting - - how perfect is that? ?!?




Here's the "BEFORE and "AFTER" . .photos for you to see. . . I did the same thing they do in all the big magazines. . . I did the blow dry all cool when I had the hair color I liked!


Isn't it weird and cool all at the same time how much difference I made with just 6 foils! Its not highlights and KILLER CHEMIST says she is not exactly fond of this technique ( using just 1 color) either but I think it rocks . . .


that's the good part about taste - - we all have it and its all 'different"


she can use multiple colors - - that's hard for me






FINAL VIEW of the look is pretty gorgeous. . . what do you think?


think you can pull it off?






Holly and her 6 Foil Transition using Slices of Lights

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #6




Ribbons the Results 6 foils . . . 2 Tubes of Color and some bleach

I even like the idea of just applying to one side.

That may seem a bit bizarre to some of you but if you

mix the part-tings up you can come up with many different looks
This is one method of applying Ribbons there are a couple others . . .as well




















I suppose some of you in remote parts of the country, could ask your hairstylist to apply this "to" you if you don't want to do it to yourself.


What is the main difference you see in RIBBONS and HIGHLIGHTS ?

Advantages?