Highlights Are History & The Reason "Why" in 2 Photo's

Whitney Port from MTV series "The City" demonstrates
My Theory -- Highlights are History

Whitney - Before

highlights on top of highlights on top of. . . . .

many are understanding + seeing it. . . . many are not

These Photo's are of Whitney Port from the MTV series "The City"
{ in case you've been sleeping under a rock for the last year }

A Gorgeous example of the new and CURRENT : Paint Drips

Whitney - AFTER
it helps of course to be drop dead gorgeous

Comments?

Sensitive Souls with Sensitive Scalps -- What About Hair Color?

What Color Options Are Available ?

 

A small portion of people have sensitive skin and sensitive scalps, usually displayed by reddened and flaky skin after color applications. Some have such bad reactions, in the middle of the service, they need to have the color taken off immediately even.  With there being 2 completely different sensitivities, there are 2 separate answers for this problem. Let me get the serious, more radical one out of the way first.

This one is a syndrome... when it happened to me the first time, 3 years into my Salon experience...I will never forget it. Why? It was my daughters friends > identical twins, and it happened to both of them and it had never happened to me before. I was SO freaked out, I called my mentor back at Vidal Sassoon, which was the very first time I had, since leaving - - she knew exactly what I was talking about ... but in the 2 years at Sassoon and 3 years in the Salon I had never come across it? How rare is that?? Super, she said !  Vidal was a full service working Salon, so this was hundreds of thousands of people I'd seen and/or been around over those years.

She explained it to me as this unusual lightening syndrome that affects a certain group of people ( she thought with a certain body chemistry) they have never been able to figure it out : 'who' exactly or 'why'. It simply does not happen to a large enough group for anyone to research it. The lightener (seemed to be any lighter than clients hair by a couple levels  & many but - not all  times. . . it was bleach) warms up in the first 30 minutes and the client feels the progressing warmth on their head, many times it is "first timers" - First time they have colored their hair, ever! It soon begins getting very HOT, and finally the twins screamed, I came running over to them and steam was coming out of the foils . . .I quickly yanked the foil work out... throwing it on the floor... I was so freaked out! The foils were continuing to steam and their hair and scalp was super hot . . .  it was the weirdest thing that had ever happened in a coloring application in all my days, still is. I'm hoping I find someone that this has happened to... if this is you ......will you PLEASE write a COMMENT at the bottom? So I can ask you a few questions??? Please?

The path is > take the foil work out . .shampoo immediately, put  Gleam or something similar on the scalp and never use lightener again. I've heard different stories about how sometimes it  goes away as one ages, as long as the twins were my kids friends it never went away for them.

Now for the majority of you with the normal mild-sensitive scalp, that just can't handle the color directly on your scalp in a minor way . . . the solutions are there and are not too horrible.

Sun Lights, Slices, Panels, Paint Drips, Pirouette, Veil, Weaves  etc..of color, are your best bet. It keeps the product OFF of your scalp with the color being IN THE FOILS. If you need Global Color (all-over) then a semi permanent with NO or LOW-Ammonia could be your option, by not being able to go lighter. The newest trend is many of larger companies are starting to come up with low or no ammonia hair color. What Ammonia does for hair color?  swells the cuticle, which lets the color in the hair strand to do its magic!

What I don't quite understand is this: if ammonia swells the cuticle which is necessary for the hair color to get into the hair strand...what's the difference if they just find another chemical to do the same thing? Is it just the smell you don't like? Or what?? that you don't like?? Personally I don't have anything against ammonia, I know we need it to color hair properly. 

This type of question is above my level of cosmetic chemistry knowledge, so I ask questions of colleagues. Just like you do of me. I am told there are a few other chemicals that work exactly the same as ammonia and the companies will be using those.

My recommendation on this subject, is anyone that has even the slightest sensitivities in their body you should ask for a patch test or skin test, whatever they call it in your area - when booking the appointment. If you are sensitive and have never had color at ALL, you need to do 1 of 2 things:

1. Ask whomever you made a appt.with for a 24 hour skin patch test. Making a 15 minute appt. the day before your real appt. If your skin has a pretty bad reaction - the day before even, call the Salon, ASAP.        OR
2. Color your hair at home. This way you have all the control and know exactly 'what' is going 'where'. For this type scalp and/or skin I would NEVER EVER take the risk of using boxed hair color nor should you use any type of hair color from Sally's. I would try Color Touch - a demi permanent line - which is Wella's Euro brand of hair color and more gentle than pretty much any other line I know of. It can be used with 6 Volume of 16 Volume - very low developers, yet still a 24 hour skin test is necessary.

In the works are a few lower ammonia and no ammonia color lines, I have a huge battle with the words "Natural"  &  "Organic"  . . . the Lines Reps come around to different Salons in the LA area to TEST Market them... so the Stylists can try them and we can give them our feedback. I have lost that little advantage, because of not being in the Salon which makes me sad. . . . BUT. . .I get feedback from colleagues. Lately I have heard good feedback about the line PRAVANA, I've bought some of my first colors and they have crazy colors that are apparently --remarkable!  I've written about them somewhere in the Blog I'm sure.

I always have my ear to SKY & GROUND for what's HOT & NEW coming out ... there are a few organic hair color lines on the conveyor belt.

Europe/England are the place where they will come from. The German Wella plant {I think} is where the brilliant new hair colors will stem from, we shall see.

I will point out to you that Pravana which I carry in the store ( in process of displaying all of it )...has about 10 colors that are all intermixable; if you are interested in this line please email : Killerstrands@gmail.com , put "PRAVANA" in the subject line.                      

PRAVANA  BOTANICALS - HAIR COLOR

* Silk Degrees Botanical Hair Color
* The Natural Botanical hair color with Attitude!
* Plant Based – No Peroxide - No Ammonia

I have not tested them yet but  the man that started this line is a well recognized pioneer in the hair color world. The tests are forth coming, when, and, if, we get anyone interested in the line.

Killer Chemist

Smokin' Golden Globe Hair - Cameron Diaz Models the Paint Drip Hair Color Technique

Absolutely Amazing hair by the best Tomboy in the Business

The Paint Drip Technique:

Looks as though you dipped the hair in paint and let it drip dry

For instructions on this technique . . .

please visit my DEMO

http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2008/01/foils-ribbons-and-paint-drips.html

sign up for a 1 on 1 Hair Color Consult with me : Killer Chemist,
for help with what products you will need
click on the BUY NOW Button for a $25.00 Hair color consult
safely through PAY PAL

Paint Drips & Ribbons - Tricks-of-the-Trade - Part 3

Deadly Drips and Ruthless Ribbons is more the Killer Strand method

As you'll see in the head sheet break down, you'll see how the 4 strips were chosen. I chose these to make them easily viewable by you ( not the goal in hair really)
2 Drips and 2 Ribbons
I want you to see how easily they are done,
then refer back to the first post
http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2008/01/foils-ribbons-and-paint-drips.html
to see how these very simple techniques look on finished hair ...you will be able to relate the photos in that link to how it was accommplished.

Hopefully.

let me know if you have any questions I tried to cover it as simply as this medium would allow

These first 5 fotos are focused on the red paint Drip on the LEFT side , bleach was applied from mid-strand to end, depending on what you are putting this on top of would make a difference in how exactly you apply it. If it is virgin hair you would apply the same way as if bleaching the hair. If color is on the hair you can apply to the strand as well, it will just have to be left on longer. The hair does not have to be super light...the photos of that stage got deleted.- i apologize. The hair only needs to be lightened to a Level 8-9 for most looks

There are hundreds of choices .. of what to do with these pieces of lightened hair- i did the most bold so it would show up in photos the best. I used blue and wished I had used yellow, but couldn't bring myself to (even tho it didn't matter - how weird am I? ) See how I started the bleach at about the tip of her nose for this one?







Then there is the blue paint drips on the left side which were started close to the bottom of the hair with about 2 inches of hair covered with bleach. Rinsed then covered with Blue FUDGE Semi Permanent hair color ( no peroxide) - so these will fade. Look how cool that blue looks peeking out of the bottom of the hair. LOVE IT . You can put color over the bleach, or tone the bleach pieces, make them SILVER...make them black, or make them a gorgeous vanilla blond...there are hundreds of choices to m ake you different. You know why this is a great technique for Crib Colorists? Its easy to apply to yourself. This technique does not necessarily need to be applied to the back of the head and it still looks damn cool, you can change it all the time as well!






Here we have the Red Ribbons and Blue Ribbons (hidden pretty much), see the difference?? ribbons are ON-THE-SCALP , paint drips are OFF-THE-SCALP from a random place chosen on the hair strip - as if the hair was dipped in a paint can

please any questions,

ask

Rainbow Cocktail : A flash of Cobalt, Jade, or Violet Gives a Punky Feel To The Tamest of 'Dos

This technique which lately has been termed "under-coloring" has been around for a very long time, you are used to seeing black or dark brown underneath a blond VEIL ( hair on top). With this model the use of Deep Ocean Blue, Purple and Scarlet gives a whole new dimension to an "old technique"... re-name it and you may have an award winning style on your hands. I realize my readers are trying to learn the basics, but this can be a "basic", it really can.

The technique is very possible for you Home Hair Colorists HHC to accomplish. No not to this extreme, a more mellow 'version' but still for some excitement and for the 2 color separation (one on top and the other on the bottom ) it is very easy and we will go into this if I hear some requests... after I finish with Dolly ( part 3 tomorrow)




black and silver highlights......how YUMMY........................................
see the Emerald ribbons underneath the blond Veil





This Level 3 model has the technique "Paint Drips" . . . in the future...I plan on showing more new photos of hair styles and pointing out techniques we are discussing or learning so you can start to pick them out yourself. If we are here to learn hair color, which from all of my mail and Comments, is the number 1 reason most of you are here, - part of that category is teaching you the names of the techniques and you must begin to spot techniques when you are out in public as well..
Especially techniques you are learning to accomplish at home.
.......................................But anyway...back to the model, she is a perfect example of the success and the brilliance of this technique. I LOVE this TECHNIQUE, its trying to break into the USA, its huge and been huge in the European hair market...we are slow to change here.
Don't most of you think this is gorgeous? With a Level 3 hair I would shy away from adding blonde to it, it is just to far away from her virgin hair, but many people and I bet there is at least one reading this ( if not many!!) that have this exact hair color and want something more exciting and "fun" - - its a very common problem in the Salon, so why wouldn't it be here. With a modest 10-12 foils and most likely a 10AB or 12AB + 40 volume, this woman's hair has the most gorgeous and easy to accomplish Dynamite Hair Color.






Add Splashes of Color to High-light Layers For Effective Movement and Texture

Paint Drips & Ribbons - Tricks-of-the-Trade > Step 2

This is a photo by photo display of how to accomplish this technique, which I can now see is not going to be nearly as easy as I thought to describe & teach on the Web.

Depending on the level you are and the level you want the Drips or Ribbons to be...will determine the volume of developer you use with the bleach. Here is another example where "bleach" comes to the rescue. Bleach goes in the foils to lighten the pieces, do NOT worry about it, its only a small portion of the hair. Remember your new mantra: " I Must Learn To Love Bleach "...."must learn to love Bleach"...!! What I've done is choose 1 of each....1 Paint Drip (larger-front piece) 1 Paint Drip ( small -side piece) and then 1 Full Ribbon. So you may see what each is and then look likes. Part of the specialty of this technique is "blending" them and "placing" them so it looks natural and fun.

Here is the front large Paint Drip....parted away from rest of hair, then applied bleach & 40 volume ( the hair on Dolly is much darker than her sister, and am not sure if its made for dying or not, remember I had these for "cuts" not color, I've noticed since that there are particular models for color. (oooops)
Fold up the Foil and seal . . . the heat that is generated from being folded up - helps the bleach work faster/better/etc. on a real person the heat from the scalp helps



Look at the paint drips on the beautiful girl on the right Side Bar, see the purple-blue-red drips --> just on the ends. That look is very easy to get and very fashion forward




See how I part away the hair. Being sure to keep the hair you do NOT WANT COLORED, away from the foil. You are using the foil to keep together the hair and the bleach, so it may work together. Separated from the rest of the hair, is what creates a lot of the cool looks in hair, I hope to show you that in stages this week.

I am showing this for one reason only, (stubborn hair only).... generally the rule is to NOT use heat with foils and bleach.....The rule is NO > Do not use heat on bleach.
I will be perfectly honest and admit there are just times when I need it.

There is stubborn hair, there is hair that is so resistant not only heat won't work -- sandpaper won't either!

As in everything there are exceptions to the rule... and that is exactly how it is with hair.... ESPECIALLY MOLLY's hair, this girl has dark skin and her hair is next to impossible, I have bleached the pieces a couple times each and used heat and they have barely budged.....
BUT THIS IS A DOLLHEAD.

REAL human heads with real human hair are not like that, unless there is artifical color on it you are trying to remove. Normally you will watch the hair trun very fast, no heat needed ...Just open the foils, smooth the bleach off with your finger and look at the color of the hair. Yes, this takes experience but, you might as well start now.

Experiment with one small ribbon Underneath all of your hair, to just see how it works. There will be no harm done on one little piece of hair that can be covered up, if need be.
Stay tuned!


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