Taking The Asian Hair Blond, James Blond !

Pitch Black Asian Hair Turned Snow White


a bit of a side note here . . . . . . . . .
a Salon trade magazine ran a pertinent article on Taking Asian Hair Blond. Its funny, when I'm working on a post, I will see a million things along the same line ... in the weirdest places....Send out good energy . . . it WILL come back to you

anyway . . . .

Trends throughout Asia and with Asian-Americans all come from Japans Harajuka district and the tweens there. While practically needing dynamite to get Asian hair - - blond , super blond is the hottest color to have. Deep Burgundy is also popular because it is easy to achieve by lightening the hair to the orange stage, then add burgundy on top -- ends up very long-lasting.(This was accidentally discovered by Stylists while on their way to blond for people that gave up)

this is from a long time colorist from an artificial hair manufacturing company..........she has been a colorist for ever... her thoughts on going blond on Asian hair ( she too is Asian) :
Her theory:
she used Clairol Basic White bleach and 20 volume developer, claims it took 5 days to get blond. She left it on 5 hours every day, and at the end of the 5 days . . .only the tips were melting; the roots were strong.

That was printed in our top Salon magazine. I have a couple of my own comments towards her theory of bleaching Asian Pitch black hair in that manner:

• When bleach is applied the majority of its lifting ( Lightening) ability is done in the first 55 minutes...it still works for another hour or 2 ...but the speed of it comes crashing down on charts by the hair color manufactruing companies, plus by all my own tests and ultimately my clients
• I discovered if you rinsed and re-applied a new batch, the process will stay at a moving 'fast' stage and going strong , if you REAPPLY 3 times in one day (using Oil Bleach) beginning with powdered bleach & 40 Volume -- on the ends initially....
• You can get an Asian -- Blond in one day, is my theory. I've done it many times, and with nicely conditioned hair , as well.
• If you have put your hair through too much in one day.... wait a week. Do that very last bleaching a week later amd then apply the toner.... the best time to apply a toner is when the hair is freshly bleached.

I see no reason to take 5 days to bleach hair. I've heard of a few people doing it over 2 or even 3 days but never...5. If you follow my directions you won't have to do that either.

You can only tone blonde bleached hair........remember that.

The process needs to be called the BLEACH & TONE Process...ALWAYS always Tone bleached hair. ...........................Did I say..to bleach toned hair? Good.


This Asian girl has Red Ribbons in her hair,
The process begins with bleached "ribbons" { they are 1/4"-1/2" pieces of hair} ,(which do not need to be white,- yellow/gold is fine) rinsed, bright Semi permanent red applied to the bleached pieces. To get bright Red use a Semi Permanent line like MANIC PANIC.....altho FUDGE & CRAZY COLORS are my favorite lines. They fade after about 3-4 weeks, you can change the color, which can be big fun... if you've never tried it, everyone should once in life.


I put this in here to remind you of the Levels hair lightens.... With Asian Hair the first bleach may only get the hair to the RED/BROWN Level....its a lot more resistant than caucasian hair, the First bleach on caucasian hair will get to the Orange/Gold or Gold Level {most likely}.
......see why there is a lot of gold and Yellow blond's walking around ??
From talking to a lot of you I can see the biggest problem with most -- is hesitation with putting the bleach on more than once. I can tell you from 15 years of hair in Hollywood and MALIBU....I never bleached anyone's hair once.
Except Trevor. Remember Trevor? He is a Natural Level 10! Super Rare.

See the different "tones" of Blond here???

Underneath they are bleached the perfect, 'pale yellow/white'.......... then a different color TONER is applied.

Above has a Pale Golden Blond Toner, The second has an Apricot IceToner (tiny bit of copper in blond) . . . . the small photo below is Platinum Or "white toner" .... I used to call it the Marilyn White toner............Now can you see and thoroughly understand TONER??

Tomorrow you will learn to apply one. The Directions will double as directions for semi permanent Color (BOUGHT SEPARATELY --- at the beauty supply -- Tube of Color & Developer separate)

I am going to go over the Application procedures for EVERY SINGLE type of Color.

Using a HEAD SHEET ( piece of paper w/ 4 heads drawn) so you will know

• where to start,
• how large to make the partings
• width of the partings for application of color

all the particulars, so you feel more secure when you buying color and developer separate - - - trying to get you all away from KITS!!!! . Is it working???

HOW DOES THAT SOUND?

Killer Chemist

ITS ALL IN THE INGREDIENTS , MY DEAR

A CUTICLE SAVED

Lets start the weekly series off with something I have not done....something plastered on every single website you hit:

Support and promote a new product line !

I have a very hard time finding one that cares for the hair the way I think it should.. I stumbled across (although-not personally tried yet) a line of new products for curly - frizzy hair that show tremendous promise - how do I make that assumption without using them ?

As chemist's do:

Exclusively by: THE INGREDIENT LIST

Its rare that I find products that reach my expectations for hair, coming from different specialties. Many think my expectations are ridiculously high, but I have worked with over 10,000 heads of hair...I know the repurcussions of products with lousy ingredients. Manufacturers of products use 100 or 200 heads to make their products, that doesn't compare with the amount of heads of hair I have seen and watched over for at least 10 years.

Aveda has introduced a shampoo they claim reduces frizz and unwanted wave by mimiking the natural cuticle. ( With the ingredients they use they have a great shot at it).



S M O O T H INFUSION

S H A M P O O



Daily cleansing smooths and softens hair up to 60%.

• Moisturizes and reduces frizz




• Exclusive plant infusion—a blend derived from organic aloe, maize and guar bean—creates a smooth new surface on hair




• Significantly reduces frizz and unwanted wave, helps prevent flyaways




• Protects against surface damage from heat styling




• Babassu-derived cleansing system softens

S M O O T H Infusion

C O N D I T I O N E R

• Daily conditioning smooths and softens hair up to 60%.




• Moisturizes and reduces frizz




• Exclusive plant infusion—a blend derived from organic aloe, maize and guar bean—creates a smooth new surface on hair




• Significantly reduces frizz and unwanted wave, helps prevent flyaways




• Protects against surface damage from heat styling




• Babassu-derived cleansing system softens hair with a luxurious lather
  
  

L I G H T Elements Smoothing F L U I D

Smoothing Fluid is a great prep before applying flat iron heat to hair that has been dried. It will give the hair slip—leaving a smooth, shiny finish.

• A fluid styling formula that adds shine and movement as it restores a healthy look and feel to hair.




• Plant-based ingredients—like certified organic jojoba—help condition and smooth hair.




• Smooths, and conditions




• Dries with a soft touchable finish




• Adds weightless, free-flowing movement, body and natural shine




• For all hair types

HANG STRAIGHT

Smooth on damp hair from roots to ends before styling. Blow-dry straight.

• For straightening out hair and taming flyaways.




• Certified organic marshmallow root and flax seed blend creates smooth hold, while silica enhances shine.




• For curly or wavy hair




• Coaxes hair vertical Tames flyaways Defies humidity
  
  
  
  
  
  

the products are formulated with the company's plant infusion which includes aloe, maize and guar bean. The infusion is said to leave a deposit on damaged hair that restores the cuticle, mimics the nature of the cuticle and creates a foundation for smooth hair .



All of products use a number of ingredients I use in THRIVEN the Deep Hair condtioner that is a part of 10,000HEADS my 10 step STRONG HEALTHY HAIR Protocol, which I commend them for.



There are thousands of great ingredients out there, it just baffles me as to why none of these companies use them . . . . now I have found one company maybe I can refer to a lot in the future. here is a very accurate little vidoe clip of what we hear as hair stylists out of the mouths of "curlies"...check it out.

http://www.aveda.com/whatsnew/video_curly.tmpl

Beat the Frizz Monster To A Pulp: Killer Strands Clinic Handy Hints

Flatten That Fricken Frizz

5 - Part Series - Part 5

Killer Strands Handy Hints are the

smoothest route to de-frazzling the Fuzz

The NUMBER 1 TOP TIP for Frizz and Curlie Heads?-> Become an EXPERT With Serums

• purchase multiple weights {light-medium-thick}


• different areas of the hair need thicker Serum : the fringe {bangs} & the top layer of your hair (more damaged)


• lighter serums(spray) perfect for muliple applications during the day

Remember they are a combo of Cyclomethicone,Trimethicone & Dimethicone...do not purchase Serum with Alcohol in the ingredient list, Alcohol is drying. If Dimethicone is "BEFORE" Cyclo on the ingredient list - (provided they have done things properly) - the Serum should be heavier/thicker. Truthfully the only way to know is to 'feel' and experiment which can be an expensive little test.

Call Beauty Supply's until you find one that has TESTERS, or they let you bring a product back if it doesn't work.

There are expensive and medium priced versions of Serums { if the correct ingredients }

Remember my absolute favorite 2 are made by Kera Care...

Silken Seal Drops and Silken Seal Spray. Yep they are expensive but they are smokin' hot.

COMING UP?

Recipe for making your own hair Serum's

**making one batch can not only be the perfect consistency for YOUR HAIR, it can last a full year and scent it anyway you like!

Ride the Natural Wave of Smoooooth HAIR

RIDE THE NATURAL WAVE OF SMOOTH HAIR



Have your KeraCare products arrived yet?
What's the deal?
I have kept that secret for well over 15 years, never telling a soul what I use on the curlies so successfully.
On the set I would put it all in blank bottles so no one would know what it was, I was determined to keep my little trix mine, it all seems so silly now...
I'm glad I finally got it out there, because I know how it will help all of you.
The best part about this line? The cost!

Unfortunately as a Curlie-Whirlie or Dizzie-Frizzie you are condemned to a life of multiple and various juggling products, depending on factors such as weather, type & length of hair, skill level of "product-usage"..

Uh Jiminy Crickets do the 'straighties' have to deal with this shit?

In order for your hair to become manageable and soft which is the only way you learn to like it, you must invest in 6 or 8 of the products from yesterday's post. Another wonderful highlight of the KeraCare Line ? Along with the proper ratio of silicone's they have ingredients that work to repair the hair strands as well, including essential oils that over the centuries have been proven to truly work wonders on hair, I include various ones in all of my formulations.

The tight curl structure of curly hair makes it difficult for the natural oils from the sebaceous glands to flow down and lubricate the hair shaft, causing the hair to become dry and brittle. In a last ditch attempt many of you will perform "home" and poor quality Relaxers in order to remove 'some' of the frizz however the chemicals used in these products are strong and often leave the hair worse.

The reason & beginning need for the "Leave-In" conditioner phase.

After the shower, shake the hair out It will take a couple experimental runs to get the "amount" correct of the Leave in. Apply Leave-In by dipping in jar - rubbing the creme smoothly together evenly between the hands....so there are no clumps or lumps.... you want a nice even light coat of it to cover all your hair, possibly running a large tooth comb thru after to make sure it gets evenly distributed. Then, leave it ALONE.
Fiddling and fumbling and playing with curly hair - ONCE Set - is a HUGE mistake, unless your look for the day is "BIG HAIR"!

For the ultimate styling method when the goal is Frizz-FREE,
you are going to have to limit the use of your blow dryer

Wavy hair that

dries naturally

tends to go less frizzy. Remember, I have no allegiance to any company or brand...I make my own conditioners that blow the doors off off anything you can get at any Beauty Supply, Neiman Marcus or Macy's counter and to not seem biased I have chosen to use Kera Care as the brand I would recommend.

Contacting KERA CARE next week, I am anxious to see what they think of my VLOGGING idea..to shoot a 3-5-10 minute VLOG showing how exactly to apply all of their products, there is an art to it,I'd like to teach.

Do you know that, within "GOOGLE'S" Search whirlwind online business, the Number 1 and 2 topics searched for in the "HAIR" category?...

#1 : is CURLY HAIR

and

#2 : is FRIZZY HAIR

So you are being heard...loud and clear....
the problem, especially in my position of wanting to solve every problem that exists in the hair universe, is..........

one solid answer ...a magic pill.

When I was in the Salon, and someone would come to me with these concerns....we would book a Relaxer.
Mind you this can be a $500.00 solution &
It 'can' take most of one day to perform.
But it is a solution.
10 years ago we didn't have the solution we have today.
So there is one, you just have to be independently wealthy to afford it.

The truth will be told here and you must understand
the reason it costs so much?
The time it takes to do it properly.
If it takes 6-7-8 hours perform? Of course you have to pay a hairstylist the rate they would make if they were 'not' doing this procedure...it is fully justified the $$ amount it costs.

I have not fully looked into the so called "Japanese Straightening Method" but within the world of cosmetic chemistry...there are only certain chemical strategies
available, there are no "secret" chemicals...that is not how the world works. It is simply, "MARKETING",they RE - NAMED the regular Relaxer, added a few little silly steps ( like: flat iron the hair right after rinsing)...
steps that I already did with my relaxers, which ended up a brilliant way to pump new energy into a technique that had lost interest in it for years.

No one believes more in clever marketing strategies than me...my college degree is in the subject...so when I can use them - I do.

It takes between 4-5-6 sometimes 8 hours to complete the process the correct way,
depending how long and how thick the hair is. So its merely the "time" and product you are paying for,fully understandable.



KILLER CHEMIST

Silicone Sucks In Implants : Shines Bright on Frizz Hair Problem

FLATTEN THAT FRICKEN FRIZZY HAIR

- Part 2 in 5 Part Series

One of the life altering moments in the world of ethnic and frizzy hair care came when “SILICONE’S were introduced to styling products and conditioners. Who could've predicted this one... a substance despised by so many women with lousy breast implants, would end up coming to the rescue of one of women’s biggest complaints. . . only in America!

The 2 silicones used in the majority of “frizz-free” hair products are Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone. I will continue to remind you to note various ingredient names for the best care of your hair, it is important to become familiar with names and actions yourself.

Cyclomethicone is the lighter of the two silicones and you will find it most often in thermal sprays, thermal (heat protection) coatings, gloss serums, gloss & shine sprays. The consistency is that of a (clear) maple syrup, with absolutely no stickiness or tackiness to it. Slippery is a good one word description for it.

Silicone is described in the dictionary as : any of a number of polymers
containing alternate silicon and oxygen atoms, whose properties are determined
by the organic groups attached to the silicon atoms, and that are fluid,
resinous, rubbery, extremely stable in high temperatures, and
water-repellent.

Dimethicone, #2 is heavier feeling, weighs more, and is normally the one used in hair conditioners and is combined with sister “Cyclo”-methicone, in every companies never ending search for the proper ratio with each other. Its funny for years I tried to battle the problem with a number of other very similar ingredients we use in formulating ethnic hair care products, but always ended up coming bad to the silicones. Being the "natural"-freak that I was born and bred to be, using silicones just didn't seem the proper route ( I also have straight hair, BTW!) They really do work extremely well and they are not harmful in any way especially when you are using them topically. So I have quit trying to fight an unnecessary battle …smart, huh? !

Most curly hairs have what I refer to as “wiry” hair and what does wiry hair need? It needs “softness” and the trip from wiry to soft is where Mister and Mrs. Silicone get their big name from because they have solved the journey.
For the ultimate in Frizz fighting the silicones can be applied via a few different products that incorporate both into their formulas. That way they work more efficiently, than just pouring on a stream of straight silicone, unfortunately that just doesn’t work and is much to greasy and gooey!

There is one company that I have been using for over 15 years, that carries (almost) everything you will need. I am not a fan of their shampoos, but that is only because they have not come out with one that does not have SLS Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in it, I am sure they will soon.
They have updated their website and everything on it goes along with all of my hair philosophy so I would use that for your battle against the frizz ,as well. I will be contacting them to see if we can do some sort of podcast in conjunction for all KILLER STRANDS members. I’d like to be able to show you how to apply the products perfectly so you will have the good results they provide.

The name of the company: Avlon Industries
The name of the products : Kera Care
Which products you purchase all depends on the degree of frizz-iness you have, no one makes better products for frizzier hair than this company. The owner is a master chemist and you can tell by the quality of his products.

This line up is in the order I put them in importance, the first one on the list being the most useful ( again it depends on your level of frizziness)

• Humecto Crème Conditioner – you will not find a better conditioner on the market – EXCELLENT deep conditioner for overnight use - week – purchase the 5lb drum. Well worth it.
• Silken Seal Liquid sheen – single best silicone serum – pricey but excellent
• Oil Sheen w/ Humidity Block – super light spray of this mixed w/ spray of Silken Seal
• Leave in Conditioner-
• High sheen Glossifier
• Silken Seal
• Finishing Spritz
• Styling Wax Stick ( perfect for flyaways)
• Oil Moisturizer w/ jojoba oil

Always....Always carry a small bottle of Silken seal drops in your purse, if you have the high level of frizz it sounds like most of you have....you will need to re-apply throughout the day.

Flatten That Fricken Frizzy Hair - 5 Day Series

The Smoothest Route to De-Frazzling The Nest

5 Day Series on Frizzy/Curly Hair

THROW IN THE TOWEL

After your shampoo & shower be careful not to towel dry the hair. Especially not a rough wild scrub with the towel I see so many do, you are roughing up the cuticle. Gently blot the water out if need be, leaving it alone is the single best choice and shaking your head back and forth side to side in the shower just before exiting is an old Hollywood trick. (The deep shaking also helps with root lift - promise).

An important part of the trick to getting rid of frizzy hair is understanding the "cuticle" of the hair strand. The cuticle has scales which lie along the surface of the hair like tiles on a roof with their free edges directed towards the tip. They cover the hair surface all the way along its length.

Hair strand magnified - Cuticle visible
If you could look at a hair under a powerful microscope you would see that the scales growing over the youngest part of the hair (the part that grows closest to the scalp) are smooth and unbroken. Further along the hair, you would be able to see that they may have been damaged by cosmetic treatments ( flat irons, over processing, etc).
When the hair's cuticles are smoothed down and going in the same direction the appearance will be shiny and smooth, therefore lessening/eliminating frizz.

Remember this theory for other things you do to your hair such as : putting clothes on over the head, wearing hats, swim caps, brushing hair upside down(that's a 'no'). The roughing up that the towel drying creates sets the entire styling process up to fail for you, its a very easy step, put a post-it on the bathroom mirror right now if you must.

Included in this 5 day series on Frizzy Hair will be 10 of my Tricks + 5 product recommendations I'm fairly certain you will have never heard of that are truly miraculous on curly frizzy mops. When you are in the upper echelons of the hair world what you have that sets you apart from each other are your tricks and product finds that you try to keep secret. That is why people seek you out, along with the obvious : artistic flare & knowledge of hair.

Ethnic Hair Care & The Curls That Love It

Curls~Frizz~Kinks

the problems of the ethnic hair crew

I have yet to meet a person who didn't want the kind of hair they didn't have

Just remember that the next time you get down on yourself and your hair... as I know you curly hairs do. Straight hairs wish they had curly, they really do. Its plain and simple human nature I have decided --to want, what you don't have. As you grow older, that will change and go away....you get comfortable in your own skin (and hair).

The challenges facing the Ethnic hair care client are different than their counterparts....but believe me BOTH have just the same amount of challenges - they are just 'different'.
The most common complaints:

• dryness
• fragility & breaking
• styling options
• proper products

Surveys indicate the ethnic hair clients seek professional services every 2-3 weeks while their counterparts regularly come every 6-7 weeks....so they do seek out help more. The most common treatment? Relaxers. Both at home versions as well as the Salon/Professional type. During my years in The Salon in Malibu there was no one doing relaxers and I just didn't understand 'why'... so I proceeded to become a Specialist in them. Not a lot of Hair Stylists do them as they are also the most complicated procedure as well as the most critical, dangerous and challenging. Right up my alley. They are the single Salon service where you make the absolute MOST difference in the hair for a client, and after you have completed a successful relaxer you have made a committed and dedicated client "for LIFE", I have never seen a happier more thrilled hair client than the successful hair Relaxer client. Every single one of them calls 2 days later when they shampoo for the first time literally blown away that after the shampoo the hair did not return to its curly frizzy stage - I have received many MANY fantastic thank you gifts for this service unlike any other service I had performed, it was the coolest thing to me.

From my experience I would just never recommend this service for anyone to do at home... ever ..it is just too dangerous and the 'timing' aspect is too crucial. Having weak hair to begin with you just don't have the leeway for mistakes, besides the ingredients used in professional Relaxer products are simply better for the hair.

If you insist on getting one and cannot afford the Salon price (@ $60.00 to $100.00 per hour it comes in as the most expensive Salon procedure - it can take up to 7 hours to complete) the next best step: look into being a hair model for demonstrating its application, go to the local Beauty Academy and get in on their "model night" or their weekly hair model list. { does not mean you need to be model material all over - don't worry!} I know here in LA,many of you interested in this would be more than welcome at the Vidal Sassoon Academy in Santa Monica, and the Paul Mitchell Academy in Orange County...they are both always looking for hair models as are all good Salons and Beauty Schools they never have enough people to work on.

The advantage to this option is:

• have an instructor standing over their shoulders
• before they ever put product on live model, spent weeks practicing on 'doll heads with shaving cream'
• watch the procedure done by instructor on stage a few times...
• reading on it...
• studying on it....followed by 'written' testing of it
• more doll head work..practicing the sectioning and application -- combing-- stretching and the speed needed to do it....
• THEN they let the students work on real clients

Now I am talking the best Hair schools in the USA which are Vidal Sassoon and Paul Mitchell....the others will be run totally different - do some research. F

This can be a terrific and successful procedure.

When there is a will there is always a way. As this Blog goes on I am hoping more of you will submit questions and comments, I had a lovely girl suggest I write about ethnic hair...I am more than happy to write about every and any subject --- please - - -I look forward to your comments and requests.

Remember a Relaxer is the same exact chemical make-up as NAIR or NEET Or any hair remover....if left on the hair too long........what do you think will happen ? Yes, the hair can be lifted right off the head.

The key to aceing a Relaxer is the "Timing" of it...The timing and the division of the application procedure. I had one Assistant that was trained in depth on Relaxer -application... so he knew {almost} as much as I did, I sent him to 3 different Relaxer Seminars, many stylists do not want to share the job like this...but it is the only way for it to be super successful for both the client AND the stylist. If its done on a man or a woman with a short cut, one can do it, any longer than chin length hair and it becomes the job of 2. When booking one it always had to be on a day he was working because the key to the success is applying - pulling and stretching the hair flat with the Relaxer Creme on the hair and doing it fast....making small sections all around the head and being sure to coat > comb > & stretch...from the minute it has been applied to the minute you hit the shampoo bowl to rinse should be between 9 & 16 MINUTES only! That is not very long, even for the fastest stylists on the planet, doing this correctly at home would be impossible.

That is why you want to have a qualified practitioner perform the relaxer on your hair ~

Remember : TAKE CARE OF YOUR HAIR

Static flyaway hair NO MORE

The eternal problem of flyaway hairs. Little stubbly hairs sticking up all over the head and if its the winter and hats need to be worn. . . well you can for-ged-a-bout-it!

Most stylists I cavort with use the combo of "STATIC GUARD" bought at any Target, its used for clothing I'm sure there are other brands but this one works wonderfully,and a spray silicone.

• GENTLE Version:Take your brush or comb, spray once over with the Guard and smooth the hair with it.
• MEDIUM Version: the most used combo is using a combination of Static Guard and one of the 10,000 silicone serums out there, although it must be one that does not have any denatured alcohol in it or you will be adding to the problem. RUSK has a wonderful one (the apricot bottle) its perfect. Another brand which is virtually impossible to find [I can get it if you want] Avlons Silken Seal is my all time favorite,its pricey but worth it.
• SUPER Strength Version: If the problem is still not under control which really should only be very curly/frizzy haired people, everyone else you are doing something wrong. Try layering the spray,start with a little, try it, if its not enough add a little more and so on. The next step is adding a light mens hair wax. BEDHEAD'S Manipulator works well....and my favorite is LUSAN's pomade...a lot harder to find but it super cheap AND its GOOD for the hair - has all the right ingredients in it.

The old solution to this and can be used in a pinch is using one of those DRYER SHEETS like "Bounce" . You can take one of those and rub it across the hair, but in the last couple years everyone I know has found that method does not work as great as it did at one time. That was what we used in the 90's early 2000.....and I didn't know the intensive cosmetic chemistry I know now, back then so I couldnt' tell you the chemical make-up differences.

There, you all should be flyaway FREE