Corrective Hair Coloring - "Is That Like Corrective Shoes?"

Why, When, How

Every Hair Color procedure you do is unique and along that same line can create unique problems.  Most Hair Stylists and most of you want to believe that there is a ROCK-SOLID guide to the formulation for every hair color application.......well, there just > is not, nor will there ever be.  If I took 5 separate women - with virgin hair (never colored or chemically straightened) Level 7 (light brown), with the exact same: shoulder length - straight hair and used them as hair models. We mixed your and my favorite > high-lift: Renbow 100A (ash) + 40Volume . . . applied it to all 5 of them (in the exact same manner) -- all 5 would turn out different.

Why?

These factors are completely different on all 5 of the girls, even though you cannot see them.

1. underlying pigment
2. condition of hair
3. (PET) Porosity of the hair
4. (PET) Elasticity of the hair
5. (PET) Texture  of hair
6. Natural Base ( within every Level of hair color is variations)
7. Existing tint

All of the 5 factors effect and contribute to the end result. All 5 of those factors will make each one of those 5 girls end up with a different tone of blond, 1 will most likely be brassy ( so more would need to be done to hair) - while 1 will be absolutely striking and the most beautiful blond you've ever seen - the other 3 will be varying shades in the middle.  As far as most of you are concerned: you really only need to figure out your own contributing factors and deal with those. You hair stylists out there . . .its just a matter of experience and the amount of heads you color.  That is what makes a "GREAT" Hair Stylist... one that has learned how each & every one of his/her individual clients hair reacts to hair color. So when they come in to go to lighter in the Spring you can address that without trouble and then go darker in the fall - all care free. For you Crib Colorists, all you have to learn is how your own hair reacts to hair color...which really shouldn't take that long.

Corrective Hair coloring is a subject that can be terrifying to many hair stylists. Many hair stylists don't and won't tackle it. I have found in small towns, which here in southern California we are full of a billion little towns, as I am sure you are in your area. Within every town there are usually 40-50 Salons, with 1 or 2 emerging as the "it" Salon, within one of those 2 Salons there will be 2-3 Hair Stylists that can really "cut" hair. . and then another 1 or 2 holding the "Best Colorist" Title. Finally there is that one Colorist that specializes in Color Correction, per town... fixing hair color mistakes. I, fortunately or not, was the one in this category for Malibu for 13 years. Being an expert at color correction can be both a blessing and a curse. Yes, you receive  top dollar for it, but it also can take days - - depending on the damage or amount of boxed hair color used. I suppose its why I am so opinionated about the pitfalls of boxed hair color - - I spent all those years - - helping people out of the messes they created for themselves. That was tough, they came in looking for empathy and that was a very hard emotion for me to muster up. Back then I rarely watched TV, I didn't really know how bad and misleading the advertising is, I guess that's why people buy it.

I had so many friends that were just so happy to give their hair color correction cases to me, even people I didn't know would send me their clients all the time.... I'm sure it's still that way in all the cities and towns around you. Color correction is a very difficult subject.... there are no hard and fast rules, there is no "Book of Hair Color Correction Rules" . . . . we kind of make them up as we go along and try to uncover what has been covered up on your hair. It takes a seasoned, experienced and patient Hair Colorist to tackle this subject successfully.

The reason the color correction is so expensive?

• usually need multiple steps to "fix" the color
• conditioners are essential along the way
• Fillers are most often required
• expertise as a colorist is challenged and valued

As with regular color formulations, you must consider the 3 contributions for the end result:

1. Hair

               a. Base

               b. Goal

    2.   Color

    3.   H2 O2

If hair is damaged or even questionable, you should proceed slowly. Don't take chances. Using deep conditioners (Thriven) along the way.

COLORING  OVERPOROUS  HAIR

Uneven porosity can cause an uneven result, because over-porous hair accepts artificial pigment differently. There are different ways to compensate for over-porosity:

• the formula: intensify the formula, make warmer, & use a lower volume developer. 10 Volume is usually ideal. Semi - Demi & no ammonia color are great choices. ( Because they deposit & don't lift). When lightening - don't use ash.
• how you apply : hair can be dampened with water a little, or with IN-DEPTH - to help equalize it
• processing time adjusted: shorten the time, over-porous hair processes very fast

    Overporous hair tends to reject warmth and accept ash. The more over porous it is, the more it selects out warmth and grabs ash, which is called "abused rejected".

I can not say this enough: "STRAND TEST-STRAND TEST-STRAND TEST!"

COLOR  FILLERS

Color Filler :  a hair-coloring product or formula used to pre-pigment previously lightened or over-porous hair, replacing missing underlying pigment, compensating for over-porosity and preparing the hair for even acceptance of whatever hair coloring follows. Color Fillers are always warm.

Does that make sense to most of you? I get asked about Fillers all the time, they make so much sense to me . . . but when I look at people's puzzled faces when trying to teach them to other Stylists - even . . .  I am fairly certain that most of you probably do not understand what they are. Am I right?

How do you know what color to fill with? They are slightly lighter than the underlying pigment of the color you want to achieve, depending on the tonal result desired, porosity and the product used.  So there is no "one color" to use when filling the hair.

Conditioner Fillers - I use these to help recondition damaged overly porous hair. . . this way the conditioner/lipids ( from the oils) can be replaced while the color is working and has the cuticle OPEN, remember there is no other time this happens. Apply Gleam + Thriven + the filler . . . is just the prefect way to even the porosity - fill the hair & repair the lost lipids all at the same time.

Color Fillers - in today's world . . . Demi-permanent colors are used for filling. The Wella Color Touch Line is used by almost every top Colorist today. Its the most wonderful line, of Demi permanent colors, it contains the perfect amount of deposit, smells nice, imparts more shine than almost any line of hair color I have experienced . . . its just a brilliant line of hair color. Which you can get in our underground store http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands. Wella used to make a specific kit for filling, well that didn't last long  . . . the Color Touch worked better than the kit.

There are just a million and one reasons to use the Color Filler. Using color Fillers has several advantages:

• deposits color to faded ends and hair shaft
• helps hair to hold hair color
• prevents streaking & dull appearance
• prevents off color results
• produces more uniform, natural looking color in a tint
• produces uniform color when doing a tint-back

Fillers are most often used for blondes returning to their original brunette base.

Picture a Level 11-12 . . .  something like this:

who is tired of her look ( although, I don't know why? ? ?!) and she wants so go back to her original color  - a level 5 B, one of my favorite colors . . .

This is a perfect example of the most common reason for filling hair. See the Level 10 . . . in order to get it to the Level 5 . . . what is missing?

Warmth.

It is a completely blank canvas, all the color is gone, it has been removed . . . because in this case if you had warmth it would be deemed 'brassy'.  So, in order to get it to this Level 5 - Light Brown - the goal. . .one must fill-IN (where the "filler" name came from) the missing warmth. In hair color, warmth means: reds, golds, oranges, yellows.  Therefore, a nice mixture of Level 6R and 7G  in Color Touch and the Gentle Developer would be the proper formula.

First:  Apply Gleam/Thriven to all the hair strands - then apply the 7RG formula for 20 minutes,. , , which is half the timing of normal hair coloring. Rinse: and be ready for a shocker - - - the hair will be a lovely shade of shocking orange.

But you cannot say it does not have a warmth!  After the filler Apply IN DPETH for 10 minutes and then the desired color , , , , I would go with faithful 6B .

There you have it - - -  fillers du jour . . .

                                                                                                                                                         

CROSS XXX Platinum Pleases Killer Stranders To No End

Never Tried  Platinum  . . .? . . 

Everyone  must  Once  in  Their   Life

Posting Readers Testimonials; Keeps Me Alive and Kicking

From LauriW@aol.com

Hello KC.

I hope this email finds you feeling well.  You, as you must know, were right on with my HHCC - Home Hair Color Consultation.

You have improved my life by helping me feel beautiful everyday with my new color.  You very accurately helped me to achieve what I wanted.   I skipped right to your recommendation of 100A with 40V processing for 45 minutes. I am enjoying Thriven + the Secret  Supplement  = Healthy hair and less daily loss.

KC-don't let others get to you too much.  You are doing something with your gift and your smarts as a chemist.  Others may rush this process by not fully reading and comprehending what they need to know and following instructions to the letter.  Remember the horse and water each saying...can't make him drink.

You are a blessing to us all.. I just happen to know it.

Great news about the upcoming store that Detour will provide us all with. 

Lauri

GLEAM: The (accidental) Sensational Hair Oil from Killer Strands

Readers Suggest Tricks They Have Found For It

In many of the hundreds of emails I receive daily I am pointing people here and there and everywhere to go to in order to help them find the solutions they need to solve their hair issues. The other day I sent one reader to the Post on GLEAM and how to use it.. . . which I have done many times before. She was the only one to come back and tell me there wasn't one, whoa did I feel stupid. Cherie, this one's for you.
Funny part about this; I have followed and done extensive research in an Indian form of medicine that is over 4000 years old, called Ayurvedic,since my introduction to YOGA 8 years ago. I believe in it with all my heart and soul . . .its a bit edgy . . and with Californians already getting a bad rap for being "out there"... I guess I have been hesitant to bring it up. Oils are a huge part of Ayurvedic medicine, and if a country of 2 billion people can have success and believe in it for 4000 years - who are we to not be open to hearing about it at least? Alas . . . I'm writing about them, they have worked wonders for my clients and myself - so this is the introduction and soon I will be writing about the 3 new Oil-combos I have coming out that will help your hair and skin more than any of those high end conditioner conglomerations.

Gleam. Gleam was my introduction into studying and combining oils. Through Ayurvedic medicine they have tested and used specific oils over the hundreds of years to find the proper oil for a certain "body type." What it is not is "hey lets get some CRISCO oil and slap it on the hair".... What I have done,in the same light, is study the "properties" of each individual oil then combine it with Ayurvedic's solution for each body type. There are probably 100 + Fixed/Carrier Oils, out there...as soon as think I have heard of all of them - - a few more pop up - - just last night I read about a new "coffee oil", made from the coffee bean! Here is an over-simplified version of what is said about some of the oils:

Almond oil - practically odorless, provides good slip and glide for massage. helps to relieve itching, irritation and inflammation, and soothes dry skin. it lubricates the skin well, but does not penetrate it quickly, which again makes it good for massage and for protecting the surface of the skin.However, it goes rancid quickly; it is helpful to blend it with 10% of wheat germ or jojoba oil for storage. . . relatively cheap.
Apricot Kernel oil - particularly helpful for dehydrated, delicate, mature, or sensitive skin; soothes inflammation and has a high vitamin A content. has a lighter consistency than almond and characteristic smell, its cost is also comparable to that of almond. suitable for body oils and lotions. Great for moisturizing both delicate & mature hair.
Avocado oil - rich, heavy, deep green, with lots of skin-nourishing vitamins (a and e). good for dry and mature skin & hair, and also helpful in eczema and psoriasis, best blended with other oils.

Grapeseed oil - Light , odorless, easily absorbed , mildly astringent , tightens and tones the skin, which makes it useful for acne. it is always solvent-extracted, causing sensitivity in some individuals.
Jojoba - Similar in composition to the skin's & hair's own oils, it is quickly absorbed. Good for dry and mature skin/hair and inflamed conditions. Helps to control acne, oily skin and oily scalp. Is an antioxidant - does not become rancid and can prevent rancidity in other oils.
Kukui - very thin, very light , with a strong smell; high in linoleic and linoleic acids, quickly absorbed into the skin, expensive.
Olive - has a strong, foodsy smell, but also good medicinal properties. Is not absorbed by the hair strand properly, does not go rancid easily and can be stored without refrigeration for a year.

I have been collecting this type of info and quite a bit more technical ones of Oil Property Lists from a dozen or so sources, combine them with Ayurvedic view points to come up with the 3 new oils that will be coming out to benefit your body/hair type soon. This new study of lipids and the fact that our body needs them is a fascinating subject to me. I feel companies like DUPONT who are billion dollar companies and make "fake" oils called silicones and esters - have squashed the "natural and organic oil" industry by falsely leading the public to believe that "oil-free" is a good thing. Our bodies require lipids/oils in order to function properly....just one more of those questionable things we have been doing to our body/hair without having the proper research completed. Hey, I'm one too . . . until I took up YOGA, I knew nothing about all of this.

Now, for GLEAM . . . Gleam is the Gold Standard for all hair oils 25% of the formula is Argan oil . Argan Oil is one of the rarest oils in the entire world, its made by hand and stems from Morocco (ONLY), it registers high in lipids and possesses a remarkable ability to nourish and moisturize hair strands.
Argan Oil Properties:

• Absorbs Quickly
• Highly Moisturizing
• Golden in Color with Moderate Viscosity
• Rich in Alpha Tocopherols (Vitamin E)
• Rich in Phenols and Phenolic Acid
• Rich in Carotenes
• Natural Anti-Oxidant
• Anti-Inflammatory
• High in Fatty and Essential Fatty Acids:
  
  
  
  
  
  • Palmitic Acid: 14%
  • Stearic Acid: 5%
  • Oleic Acid: 43.5%
  • Linoleic Acid: 37%
  • Linolenic: <0.6%
• Rich in Squalene and May Help Protect Hair from Free Radicals.

This oil’s high content in oleic acid makes this it particularly interesting in the regulation of blood cholesterol. Some studies are being done and it seems that 2 Tbsp per day of this oil during a month could considerably lower cholesterol levels. Argan Oil is a Highly Recommended Ingredient in Personal Care Products Intended for the Following:

• Anti-Aging hair & skin + Wrinkle Reduction
• Acne
• Psoriasis
• Eczema
• Sunburn
• Stretch Marks
• Damaged Hair
• Dry Scalp
• Frizzy, Curly Hair Control
• Leave-in Hair Styling Aid
• Brittle Nails
• Sore or Stiff Muscles
• Hair Detangler

Plus the other 3 oils - Abyssinian Oil, Rose Hips Oil, and finally Jojoba oil have just as many positive properties as Argan, I made it to be better than any hair/body oil in existence and I believe it is.
Now, for how to use Gleam. Which is really what this was supposed to be about!

Gleam was originally developed for one reason: to apply to my clients hair prior to bleaching the hair. It just seemed logical, that if the one and only time the cuticle (on a hair strand) is open is when the coloring process takes place, why not have lipids (oils) on that strand so they can go in along with the bleach or color. Bleach is the one and only product that lightens many peoples hair to the lightness they are seeking, so I am constantly looking for ways to make it a completely non-damaging technique. Its why I only use Levitation Oil bleach on every bleach/tone case, as well as a mixture of Gleam, Blondor cream Bleach and Blondor powder bleach for all my foil-work. As soon as I started applying GLEAM to my Bleach clients -- it was the added difference I was looking for -- the clients and I were blown away at the shine and at the condition of the hair afterwards.
Ta-Da . . . . . . . . . a new Lipid Pre-Treatment was born to the world of hair color!
"Lipids" are really just another name for Oils, they are fatty acids and their derivatives. They are easily stored in the body and are a necessary part of the cell and hair strand. In the hair structure, lipids are present in the inner root sheaths and hair shaft ... lipids provide sheen to the hair and contribute towards its tensile (strength) properties. There is an increase in hair lipids after puberty in both the genders. After a women reaches middle age there is a decrease in lipid content but it is not so in the case of men. Therefore, anything a hair colorist can do to keep lipids in the hair should be well appreciated by all clients. As crib colorists you too, can now watch out for your own lipids by following my lead.

Now I apply 2/3 - 3ml dropper fulls of GLEAM to my clients hair before tinting, lightening, relaxing, any chemical service at all, which is what I would highly suggest you do as well. For the help to your hair, the shine, the strength it will render the nominal cost and the tiny bit of time it takes is well worth it. I would not use any cooking oils, they are just not treated the proper way - - unless you don't mind your hair smelling like french fries or donuts.
As I look back and try to figure out why I had not even considered using GLEAM for other purposes other than bleach, the only reason I can come up with is, I was just too busy. .

I cannot remember which of our Killer Strander's it was that first told me about this little trick with GLEAM . . .but it seems so many of you are now applying GLEAM to the hair first using Heat ( the plastic cap and hair dryer trick ) waiting 15-30-60 minutes and finally applying THRIVEN on top of the Gleam for the overnight treatment. Many people have been raving about this method of using GLEAM and the added condition and shine you are retrieving from it. If any of you have have found other uses, PLEASE , be so kind as to share them - helping others is the main theme here at Killer Strands. So there you have it one and all....... the special and wonderful tricks of GLEAM.

Another trick? Apply to fly-aways . . . works wonders, is not greasy and it is truly doing no damage to the hair as a matter of fact it is repairing it while on it, which is why I love the idea so much.

Also a client told me they were using it to de-tangle their hair, which I was fairly shocked at. . . but - hey. . .who cares if it works, and it does!
Use the oil sparingly- it goes a long way . . . while performing some wonderful little tricks with it you will be repairing it instead of damaging it like so many Serums and products out there with an ingredient list longer than the bottle itself. I honestly feel they've done that to spook customers from reading their labels.
All of that does NOT need to be in your hair products. . .You can make a perfectly wonderful daily hair conditioner with 6 ingredients, shampoos are the same way - I simply don't understand why they insist on putting in 30 or 40 (bad & possibly harmful) ingredients in the formula - - when it all can be just so darn simple.

A natural and organic oil like this is NOT good for heat protection (flat irons, etc...) . . the Silicone based products still reign in this department - I still insist you use those - for that reason. I'm hopeful a conglomeration of the two is in the pipeline. . . . cross those hairs!
I have a couple of TV starlets using it when they go in the sun (they live at the beach) while laying out . . . claim it simply works wonders as a sun conditioner.

After listening to many Killer Stranders . . . I finally decided to start trying it on different techniques. I have super long hair and super tangle-y hair, after I washed it....I applied a couple DROPS ( no more) it worked better than any de-tangler I've ever tried. I'm sold & that's a hard sell, I guarantee you.
It can be applied to dry or wet hair, depending on what you are using it for...don't be afraid to experiment with it....I believe you will be very pleasantly surprised.
Rub a little in your skin . . .watch how it absorbs &

Funny part to me - is that now KS readers are pointing me in directions I didn't know existed. . . I LOVE IT ! ! ! Keep them coming . . . . Thank you one and all

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/thriven
To purchase GLEAM/THRIVEN please visit, the new store........
http://www.Killerstrands.com

Celebrity Hair Color - "Paint Drips" Hair Color Technique Slips & Drips Its Way Around Female Royalty

The process of lightening the bottom or ends of the hair is spreading throughout Hollywood's elite. The Technique is achieved by top LA  & NY Hair Colorists, but can be passed along to your stylist or your own hands fairly easy.  Colorists are not super happy with the technique as it takes a bite out of repeat appointments.

Personally, I feel its the perfect technique for the poor economy - it lasts months and I just love the different look.

Happy Mothers Day to all Mom's out there!

Photos from JustJared.com

10,000 HEADS : A Possible New Step ?

The theory makes sense . . .

10,000Heads is Killer Strands own 13 Step regimen for hair thinning & loss in females. It runs about an 80-84% success rate with all women religiously following as many steps as possible for a period of 90 days. 10,000 Heads began with 3 Steps - 15 years ago, and it certainly wasn't called 10,000 HEADS - - more like 500 HEADS ! It was 3 Steps and it was given to each client on the back of their next appointment card. This is how the whole thing began:

• Do not shampoo your hair for 48 hours after color service
• Watch Hot Tool use
• Eat a well balanced diet

I knew then that things were all screwed up in the world of hair care, just not to the extreme they were.

I also am not big on talking and promoting a product I have not run through a number of different tests on my own. BUT. . . there is a new product that actually is one of my own ideas from about 9-10 years ago, that makes just all the sense in the world. At this point I guess I won't be testing this type of thing anymore, but its a relevant product being as 10,000HEADS is Killer Strands most successful protocol.

In the world of women's hair loss, there are only 2 FDA approved treatments, one is the Laser Brush which sells for about $600. and I have yet to hear of anyone it has truly worked for ( If anyone is out there with successful results we would love to hear from you). The other is 2% Minoxidil (Rogaine).

Way, way back when the beginnings of the female hair thinning & loss problems began on an unusual segment of my female clientele . . . I came up with a very archaic version of what you see today as the 10,000HEADS Hair Strengthen System, everyone has to start somewhere. The unusual segment was way-to-young, healthy women, its fairly well noted that hair thinning after the age of 50 is pretty much considered "normal", I hate to say. I was starting to get many complaints and was starting to notice it on my regular clients that were of high school and college age - unusual thinning & hair loss. . .so I really started to pay attention to the issue.

One of the first steps I tried on clients was the 2% minoxidil, I even tried it myself when I went through my medical treatments. The product is this watery substance that had more alcohol in the mix than minoxidil. . .so it had this piercing smell as well. I happen to have a dry scalp, dry hair, dry skin . . . so anything that contributes to that I like to stay far far away from... alcohol is that "thing". But for the sake of testing and my clients I gave it 3 months.

What I noticed was why a company, that could potentially be making hundreds of millions of dollars, couldn't understand that making the delivery vessel of the minoxidil out of a "watery-alcohol-ey" based substance, was completely wrong and ineffective. In 3 months it did absolutely nothing to my hair growth, I felt the main reason was because the watery substance never really stayed in the area of where you put it, it would drip. It was horrible to work with and it would make your scalp and skin flake after a week or so from the alcohol. One of the dumber products of the 20th century in my mind.

After about a year of many people trying it, every one complaining about . . . I stopped recommending it and using it. I made notes back then that say, needs a moisturizing "base" for the minoxidil or use in a styling product such as a mousse or texturizer so the product is solving 2 birds. When Pureology was introduced to the marketplace and I studied up on Nanotechnology, the first thing I thought of was: that's what they need to 'deliver' minoxidil to the hair.

Well, guess what has been developed? A new system of delivery of minoxidil to the female scalp, via nanotechnology! You can imagine my little secret pleasure and delight.

The product is called Lanadil, which is a hair care line that utilizes a water soluble, time-released nanotechnology system designed to restore hair quality and stimulate new hair growth. The minoxidil-based, alcohol-free line includes SULFATE-FREE (!!!) shampoo, conditioner and serum.

Lanadil is available exclusively online, but get ready for a hefty price tag! http://www.lanadil.com/index.php

If we have anyone give it a try, let us know. I still feel nothing will give you the success of Thriven ad the secret supplement, but maybe there are some that feel you need even another Step.....have at it!

They will soon figure out they are going to have to split up the trio. I give them a year!