Friday, June 29, 2007

WHO IN THE HELL DECIDES HAIR STYLES ?

Don't you ever wonder who in the
world thought of that hair-do?

Like who or what made the BEATLES come over here
with those "BEEBOP" black Hairstyles that were so long
and ALWAYS in their eyes?

Sound familiar?. . . .
you EMO fanatics

The initial fascination with all things hair began almost 25 years ago for me. . . stemming from hobbies in hair, chemistry, beauty and the health of the body. Born and raised in southern California, a a former professional athlete I was lucky enough to be afforded a unique background... it brought the knowledge of healthy body-mind and spirit to the table -- the unique crossroad to the success of my career as a busy successful,(hair) colorist, stylist, cosmetic chemist and ultimately Trichologist.

The industry of professional hair has not been both: updated, nor kept up to date, as it should.
Hair, in the upper echelons is not randomly chosen --- it is guided and crafted brilliantly by the Industry of Fashion. As a collection of clothing is revealed not only has the Designer been planning clothing but also in the back of his head at all times is that brazen new set of hair ( & makeup) concoctions he will be sending down the catwalk as well. The styles you see the trends you watch, they are no accident - they have a beginning-middle and end. Every designer has been batting around hair ideas as crucial as the clothing designs, thinking, talking to hair gurus he trusts, & new ones he may gamble on, its a crap shoot of his own design.

The day of the reveal of both clothing and hair can be made with simply 1 style or as many as 4 bold statements or trends - with very clever titles. This is how the process of new hair styles and color techniques introduce themselves to the world, Fashion designers basically chose the next trends. and proceed to make their way to the states. although a step in the proper direction is being taken. Once the hair styles are seen on the catwalks they trickle down to the wealthy, the celebrities, the rebels and finally hit home (if at all) a year or two later. The hair in America is always a minimum of a year behind European designs.

Hopefully someday we will catch up to the chaps in merry ole England or at bare minimum close the gap between the 2. Its not life or death or rocket science, but it is attached to the body and it can be an expression of ones soul. Simply put: its more exciting and inspiring to people to try different styles and colors with hair > as it truly is - only hair.

Why not use hair as a form of artistic expression? I try to encourage parents to let their children use their hair to express themselves, it the safest body part available. Nothing is permanent, it can always be chopped off and begun again new and fresh. There is no harm done and it gives a child a sense of ownership, confidence and freedom. Its fun and harmless and have known of many cases where that took the place of some other much more worrisome rebellion.

The best example of this summers hair collections (both cut & color) I found was from Wella's International Line the 4 are named: Rustic Deluxe, Sensual Intrigue, Pop Culture and Nordic Serenity.
Which you can see here
http://www.wellausa.com/trend_vision/consumer/index.jsp
I cannot help but laugh when I look at these....like anyone in the USA would actually sport these styles... but
whatever . . .
they're cool to look at
&
It IS . . .


...ONLY HAIR

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Top Silicone Serums Calm Frizzy Hair Problems

One of the advantages of being a hair stylist is Sampling the millions of products developed each year.... so you don't have to buy them then throw half away, which I know a lot of people do.

It depends on YOUR hair as to which Serum would be the absolute best I will tell you after all these years I have settled on a combo of 3 and I play with the ratios depending on the clients hair.

All of these are great and at one point or another I have used each of these for a minium of 6 months - they rock. Right now I am hot on Schwatrzkopf Magic, and always Kera Care's SilkenSeal Spray and Kenra's Smoothing Creme..............you cannot fail with these.
















Monday, June 25, 2007

Beat the Frizz Monster To A Pulp: Killer Strands Clinic Handy Hints

Flatten That Fricken Frizz
5 - Part Series - Part 5
Killer Strands Handy Hints are the
smoothest route to de-frazzling the Fuzz



The NUMBER 1 TOP TIP for Frizz and Curlie Heads?-> Become an EXPERT With Serums
  • purchase multiple weights {light-medium-thick}

  • different areas of the hair need thicker Serum : the fringe {bangs} & the top layer of your hair (more damaged)

  • lighter serums(spray) perfect for muliple applications during the day
Remember they are a combo of Cyclomethicone,Trimethicone & Dimethicone...do not purchase Serum with Alcohol in the ingredient list, Alcohol is drying. If Dimethicone is "BEFORE" Cyclo on the ingredient list - (provided they have done things properly) - the Serum should be heavier/thicker. Truthfully the only way to know is to 'feel' and experiment which can be an expensive little test.

Call Beauty Supply's until you find one that has TESTERS, or they let you bring a product back if it doesn't work.

There are expensive and medium priced versions of Serums { if the correct ingredients }

Remember my absolute favorite 2 are made by Kera Care...

Silken Seal Drops and Silken Seal Spray. Yep they are expensive but they are smokin' hot.



COMING UP?

Recipe for making your own hair Serum's

**making one batch can not only be the perfect consistency for YOUR HAIR, it can last a full year and scent it anyway you like!



Hues THAT Girl ? ? ? Hair Color to Die For






Sunday, June 24, 2007

COLOR FOR CURL



?Being a curl queen will mean you have absorbed and use every rule, trick and secret known to man for the solution & smoothing of frizz everywhere. There are dozens of tricks in all of which I am in the process of revealing for you curly-heads everywhere.

This solution might seem a bit of a stretch for some but I know there will be many who already practice it yet found it out completely by accident. Its not something advertised NOR talked about much, which baffles me as to ‘why’ not ?!?! Killer Strands will be sure to ram it into the ground - into this blog and into you curly-heads ‘ears’ as often and frequently as possible . .
my personal favorite solution to the Frizzy’s?

Hair color, but not any hair color, so please don’t have the car engine running already! The Hair color that solves the Frizzy’s is made by WELLA and called COLOUR TOUCH. I was truly fortunate in my early training, having the most brilliant Colorist take me under her wing giving me a head start on my classmates and the rest of the world. At Sassoon (back in the day) we had the lovely advantage of experimenting, testing and playing with every single hair color product on the market with 1 Academy here in Santa Monica and the other in London between the 2 we sampled & tested all hair color on the market which I continue to do today. In all of my work over the years, I make it a habit to stay current and most definitely within hair it is vital.


Within my hair color expertise, I find it necessary to experiment with each and every new product that comes out as new technologies are developed constantly. Some are good and terrific new inventions and some are just plain stupid….this one is brilliant and it is a line of color that no one has come anywhere close to. This line of colour is what’s called Demi-Permanent, in other words it ‘does not lighten’ it tints hair the same level or darker. This line of colour works absolute miracles on curly/frizzy hair, the way its made /the level of developer it uses is truly a small miracle on your curls & Frizz. Now, how you are going to get this color, is another tricky issue, its not sold in stores and is made for the color professional exclusively.


The professional formula of Color Touch enriches hair with vibrant color and brilliant shine. Hair transforming keratin evens out the hair structure and makes it possible for the shine illuminating pigments of Color Touch to attach to the hair more easily. The result: up to 50% more vibrant color.

Natural wax conditions the hair to create brilliant shine and vibrant color. This means up to 50 % more shine on previously untreated hair.

The creamy consistency of the professional Color Touch formula allows for even distribution on the hair’s surface. Combined with the equalizing properties of the shine illuminating pigments, the end result shows brilliant shine and beautiful, rich color.
Liquid Hair Keratin evens out and balances damaged areas of the hair structure for more even color results as it adds strength and volume while building fullness, shine and beautiful, rich color.

Wella’s exclusive, patented Shine Reflex Pigments penetrate more evenly into the hair providing superior deposit, tonality and durability. The higher pigment density delivers vibrant, intense color coverage. Natural emollients condition and soften the hair leaving it feeling silky smooth while helping to improve and even out the color balance. The ammonia-free formula provides for a gentle conditioning process.


The thicker formula with improved creamy viscosity helps the color stay where it is placed when using a bottle or bowl and brush to apply. Creative techniques are now easier, too, because the color stays in place and there is a noticeable improvement in color absorption further enhancing even color results. The pleasing fragrance makes it a more pleasant hair color experience for the colorist and client as well. You can go to Wella’s website for a referral to a Salon in your Area or email me and we will get the 2 of you hooked up …PLEASE we’d love photo’s, you will not believe the shine this colour puts out, they have mildly reformulated it 2 times I know of – with each one – even better!

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Ride the Natural Wave of Smoooooth HAIR





RIDE THE NATURAL WAVE OF SMOOTH HAIR



Have your KeraCare products arrived yet?
What's the deal?
I have kept that secret for well over 15 years, never telling a soul what I use on the curlies so successfully.
On the set I would put it all in blank bottles so no one would know what it was, I was determined to keep my little trix mine, it all seems so silly now...
I'm glad I finally got it out there, because I know how it will help all of you.
The best part about this line? The cost!

Unfortunately as a Curlie-Whirlie or Dizzie-Frizzie you are condemned to a life of multiple and various juggling products, depending on factors such as weather, type & length of hair, skill level of "product-usage"..

Uh Jiminy Crickets do the 'straighties' have to deal with this shit?

In order for your hair to become manageable and soft which is the only way you learn to like it, you must invest in 6 or 8 of the products from yesterday's post. Another wonderful highlight of the KeraCare Line ? Along with the proper ratio of silicone's they have ingredients that work to repair the hair strands as well, including essential oils that over the centuries have been proven to truly work wonders on hair, I include various ones in all of my formulations.

The tight curl structure of curly hair makes it difficult for the natural oils from the sebaceous glands to flow down and lubricate the hair shaft, causing the hair to become dry and brittle. In a last ditch attempt many of you will perform "home" and poor quality Relaxers in order to remove 'some' of the frizz however the chemicals used in these products are strong and often leave the hair worse.

The reason & beginning need for the "Leave-In" conditioner phase.

After the shower, shake the hair out It will take a couple experimental runs to get the "amount" correct of the Leave in. Apply Leave-In by dipping in jar - rubbing the creme smoothly together evenly between the hands....so there are no clumps or lumps.... you want a nice even light coat of it to cover all your hair, possibly running a large tooth comb thru after to make sure it gets evenly distributed. Then, leave it ALONE.
Fiddling and fumbling and playing with curly hair - ONCE Set - is a HUGE mistake, unless your look for the day is "BIG HAIR"!

For the ultimate styling method when the goal is Frizz-FREE,
you are going to have to limit the use of your blow dryer

Wavy hair that
dries naturally
tends to go less frizzy. Remember, I have no allegiance to any company or brand...I make my own conditioners that blow the doors off off anything you can get at any Beauty Supply, Neiman Marcus or Macy's counter and to not seem biased I have chosen to use Kera Care as the brand I would recommend.

Contacting KERA CARE next week, I am anxious to see what they think of my VLOGGING idea..to shoot a 3-5-10 minute VLOG showing how exactly to apply all of their products, there is an art to it,I'd like to teach.

Do you know that, within "GOOGLE'S" Search whirlwind online business, the Number 1 and 2 topics searched for in the "HAIR" category?...

#1 : is CURLY HAIR

and

#2 : is FRIZZY HAIR

So you are being heard...loud and clear....
the problem, especially in my position of wanting to solve every problem that exists in the hair universe, is..........

one solid answer ...a magic pill.

When I was in the Salon, and someone would come to me with these concerns....we would book a Relaxer.
Mind you this can be a $500.00 solution &
It 'can' take most of one day to perform.
But it is a solution.
10 years ago we didn't have the solution we have today.
So there is one, you just have to be independently wealthy to afford it.

The truth will be told here and you must understand
the reason it costs so much?
The time it takes to do it properly.
If it takes 6-7-8 hours perform? Of course you have to pay a hairstylist the rate they would make if they were 'not' doing this procedure...it is fully justified the $$ amount it costs.

I have not fully looked into the so called "Japanese Straightening Method" but within the world of cosmetic chemistry...there are only certain chemical strategies
available, there are no "secret" chemicals...that is not how the world works. It is simply, "MARKETING",they RE - NAMED the regular Relaxer, added a few little silly steps ( like: flat iron the hair right after rinsing)...
steps that I already did with my relaxers, which ended up a brilliant way to pump new energy into a technique that had lost interest in it for years.

No one believes more in clever marketing strategies than me...my college degree is in the subject...so when I can use them - I do.

It takes between 4-5-6 sometimes 8 hours to complete the process the correct way,
depending how long and how thick the hair is. So its merely the "time" and product you are paying for,fully understandable.



KILLER CHEMIST

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Silicone Sucks In Implants : Shines Bright on Frizz Hair Problem




FLATTEN THAT FRICKEN FRIZZY HAIR


- Part 2 in 5 Part Series


One of the life altering moments in the world of ethnic and frizzy hair care came when “SILICONE’S were introduced to styling products and conditioners. Who could've predicted this one... a substance despised by so many women with lousy breast implants, would end up coming to the rescue of one of women’s biggest complaints. . . only in America!


The 2 silicones used in the majority of “frizz-free” hair products are Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone. I will continue to remind you to note various ingredient names for the best care of your hair, it is important to become familiar with names and actions yourself.

Cyclomethicone is the lighter of the two silicones and you will find it most often in thermal sprays, thermal (heat protection) coatings, gloss serums, gloss & shine sprays. The consistency is that of a (clear) maple syrup, with absolutely no stickiness or tackiness to it. Slippery is a good one word description for it.


Silicone is described in the dictionary as : any of a number of polymers
containing alternate silicon and oxygen atoms, whose properties are determined
by the organic groups attached to the silicon atoms, and that are fluid,
resinous, rubbery, extremely stable in high temperatures, and
water-repellent.

Dimethicone, #2 is heavier feeling, weighs more, and is normally the one used in hair conditioners and is combined with sister “Cyclo”-methicone, in every companies never ending search for the proper ratio with each other. Its funny for years I tried to battle the problem with a number of other very similar ingredients we use in formulating ethnic hair care products, but always ended up coming bad to the silicones. Being the "natural"-freak that I was born and bred to be, using silicones just didn't seem the proper route ( I also have straight hair, BTW!) They really do work extremely well and they are not harmful in any way especially when you are using them topically. So I have quit trying to fight an unnecessary battle …smart, huh? !

Most curly hairs have what I refer to as “wiry” hair and what does wiry hair need? It needs “softness” and the trip from wiry to soft is where Mister and Mrs. Silicone get their big name from because they have solved the journey.
For the ultimate in Frizz fighting the silicones can be applied via a few different products that incorporate both into their formulas. That way they work more efficiently, than just pouring on a stream of straight silicone, unfortunately that just doesn’t work and is much to greasy and gooey!

There is one company that I have been using for over 15 years, that carries (almost) everything you will need. I am not a fan of their shampoos, but that is only because they have not come out with one that does not have SLS Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in it, I am sure they will soon.
They have updated their website and everything on it goes along with all of my hair philosophy so I would use that for your battle against the frizz ,as well. I will be contacting them to see if we can do some sort of podcast in conjunction for all KILLER STRANDS members. I’d like to be able to show you how to apply the products perfectly so you will have the good results they provide.

The name of the company: Avlon Industries
The name of the products : Kera Care

Which products you purchase all depends on the degree of frizz-iness you have, no one makes better products for frizzier hair than this company. The owner is a master chemist and you can tell by the quality of his products.

This line up is in the order I put them in importance, the first one on the list being the most useful ( again it depends on your level of frizziness)
  • Humecto Crème Conditioner – you will not find a better conditioner on the market – EXCELLENT deep conditioner for overnight use - week – purchase the 5lb drum. Well worth it.
  • Silken Seal Liquid sheen – single best silicone serum – pricey but excellent
  • Oil Sheen w/ Humidity Block – super light spray of this mixed w/ spray of Silken Seal
  • Leave in Conditioner-
  • High sheen Glossifier
  • Silken Seal
  • Finishing Spritz
  • Styling Wax Stick ( perfect for flyaways)
  • Oil Moisturizer w/ jojoba oil

Always....Always carry a small bottle of Silken seal drops in your purse, if you have the high level of frizz it sounds like most of you have....you will need to re-apply throughout the day.

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Flatten That Fricken Frizzy Hair - 5 Day Series

The Smoothest Route to De-Frazzling The Nest


5 Day Series on Frizzy/Curly Hair


THROW IN THE TOWEL

After your shampoo & shower be careful not to towel dry the hair. Especially not a rough wild scrub with the towel I see so many do, you are roughing up the cuticle. Gently blot the water out if need be, leaving it alone is the single best choice and shaking your head back and forth side to side in the shower just before exiting is an old Hollywood trick. (The deep shaking also helps with root lift - promise).


An important part of the trick to getting rid of frizzy hair is understanding the "cuticle" of the hair strand. The cuticle has scales which lie along the surface of the hair like tiles on a roof with their free edges directed towards the tip. They cover the hair surface all the way along its length.

Hair strand magnified - Cuticle visible
If you could look at a hair under a powerful microscope you would see that the scales growing over the youngest part of the hair (the part that grows closest to the scalp) are smooth and unbroken. Further along the hair, you would be able to see that they may have been damaged by cosmetic treatments ( flat irons, over processing, etc).
When the hair's cuticles are smoothed down and going in the same direction the appearance will be shiny and smooth, therefore lessening/eliminating frizz.

Remember this theory for other things you do to your hair such as : putting clothes on over the head, wearing hats, swim caps, brushing hair upside down(that's a 'no'). The roughing up that the towel drying creates sets the entire styling process up to fail for you, its a very easy step, put a post-it on the bathroom mirror right now if you must.


Included in this 5 day series on Frizzy Hair will be 10 of my Tricks + 5 product recommendations I'm fairly certain you will have never heard of that are truly miraculous on curly frizzy mops. When you are in the upper echelons of the hair world what you have that sets you apart from each other are your tricks and product finds that you try to keep secret. That is why people seek you out, along with the obvious : artistic flare & knowledge of hair.

FAUX HAWK HAIR Styles - becoming a CLASSIC { there's an oxymoron}

Bleach Blonde Do's Rock the Runway and the Street

Two Lengths <> Two Lovelies



Saturday, June 16, 2007

Grow Baby Grow - Die Baby Die

Your hairs are considered "Terminal" <> in other words: they die
Every hair on your head has a 3-4 year life span
which means: each and every hair dies off <> sheds <> then rests


at which point the entire cycle starts all over again
Hair thinning is a result of the hair not regrowing
after having been at rest
Two Actual human hairs magnified 400X




Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Confessions of an Eyebrow Specialist: Secret Formula for Tinting Eyebrows Revealed


Random Grey Hairs Messing Up Eyebrow Shape?

Purchase :
BEST eyebrow Tint Kit :
$31.00 - Professional tint; all the secrets revealed


One of the more coveted "trix of the trade": the formula for tinting eyebrows
A woman's eyebrows begin the trek downhill starting about age 20, sad but true. The thickness declines, the shape grows wildly out of control and soon those dreaded greys sprout.

Recently, a longtime client of mine relayed her woes of making an appointment with one of the famous Eyebrow shapers in Beverly Hills. The appointment took 4 months, the cost ? $100.00 for shape and $75.00 to tint a soft beige-brown ! That was the point I decided my long time secret formula was making its debut on Killer Strands - The BLOG! I could not believe the price had gotten that high, ridiculous utterly ridiculous. It still amazes me that she even went to the woman, because this girl does not have enough eyebrows to know whether the Eyebrow Queen from Bulgaria or the dog had shaped them....they are just too thin.

Tinting your brows at home is really something that should be taught in ghigh school health class. It is a necessity and its simple, although we who invented the art kind of treated it as though we had discovered the cure for cancer! Ridiculous again! Its handy little chore...i hope you all enjoy.

If you have been coloring in your brows with pencil or powder, this is permanent although not permanent like Tattoos. It lasts a month, you can change shades to match different hair colors...when you go lighter in the summer and darker in the fall. Tint your brows once a month at your convenience it fills-in where there are gaps because it dyes the tiny hairs on your face even if the brow hair is gone ( a common problem of the over 35 set).

For $31.00 you receive:
INCLUDING ( the best part) a detailed diagram of how to trim the brows SUCCESSFULLY.

  1. 2 tubes of permanent PRO Hair Color, 1 tube will ALWAYS be a "N" Series- Neutral - we will decide the other after we exchange emails
  2. 1 bottle of peroxide - 20 Volume
  3. small brush
  4. Q-Tips
  5. Diagram & explanation > trick to trimming Brows
How peroxides work again:
10 Volume : Deposits color only
20Volume: Deposits Color and lifts 1 shade of color
30Volume: Lifts 2-3 shades of color then deposits
40 Volume: Lifts 3-4 shades of color then deposits


I recommend 20 volume Peroxide

tubes of color :
1 tube of N ( neutral series) -
1 Tube of A (Ash series) or whatever we determine will match your hair.

Directions:
Make yourself up a small kit for eyebrows....
You will be doing this 1-2X a month, once you see how cool it is.

Layout a towel in the bathroom, One paper cup used to mix the color. Mix the color according to the directions ON THE BOX OF COLOR.... every line has a different ratio of color to peroxide.
Most of them are 2 Parts Color to 1 part developer( or peroxide) ...
I will guide you at point of purchase

Mix 1 inch squirt of 10N....with a 1 inch squirt of 10A....mix the two colors together FIRST with Q-Tip, well. Measure what you ball park to be 4 inches of peroxide - if you have a 2:1 mixing ratio.... or you can do this with 1/8 teaspoons if you need to....I eyeball it and it turns out perfect...

I've tried this with the public hair colors - - it simply just does NOT work, so you finally have a method to get those eyebrows - professionally tinted.

Once ordered I will finalize the 2nd tube of color with you and how to mix the exact formula . This Kit will last you 1-2 years and if you change your hair color then you change your tubes of color. I've been doing this to my clients for 16 years - - I am sure that is why they are so loyal.

Click the BUY NOW button - - you will be taken to the Secure and Safe PAY PAL site to conduct the purchase, there is no need to have a PAY PAL account to make the purchase.

Its $31.00 for one kit and I will contact you as soon as the sale has been registered to finalize your custom colors. You are going to LOVE THIS, it rocks!





Tuesday, June 12, 2007

HAIR CUTS HURT ; Hair Thieves on Cutting Edge

Just had to reprint this story. . . found the perfect hair style for the ladies of Burma > > > >

Next time you think about purchasing Extensions. . .
this may be where they are coming from . . . .By The Associated Press

YANGON, Myanmar — Women in Myanmar not only have to watch out for pickpockets but also hair thieves, a weekly journal reported Sunday.
Long-haired women in crowded areas have fallen victim to surreptitious hair snippers who steal their hair to sell, the Burmese-language 24/7 news journal reported.
"My long hair was cut while I was on my way back from the office. I found out only when I got back home," an unidentified female bus commuter was quoted as saying.
Another woman's hair was cut while she was shopping at a roadside store, the journal said.
Many women in Myanmar — also know as Burma — have waist- or knee-length hair, which they wear in a ponytail, making it easy for thieves to snip off the hair and sell it as extensions.

The report said the price of hair has increased as demand for hair as an export or raw material rises. A viss (3.5 pounds) of hair is worth 400,000 kyats ($320) to 500,000 kyats ($400), it said.

Copyright © 2007 The Seattle Times Company

Sunday, June 10, 2007

AMY WINEHOUSE ROCKS


I fully realize this is a HAIR Blog, so thank God her hair rocks as well



Who the hell is this Woman ? ? ?I haven't heard music like this since....well......since I saw Jimmy Hendrix at the Forum play the guitar with his teeth. That was a man lost in his music and so is this chick
Wow, there is a God . . .

I Tivo-ed her Special on MTV Friday night . . . If you haven't seen it...catch it...although she doesn't have my fav songs on there, she's absolutely F--king incredible
The Killers and Evanescence reinspired me lately
as did Brandy Carlile and Mika
I am just very thankful the music I know and love has not died
and needed to get that - OUT THERE -
any bit i can do to help resurrect it and keep it here...I will do...
i guess that is part of what these Blogs are here for as well. hope I haven't been too serious...
cuz I am not....
serious,
i mean
music inspires me
it has always inspired my hair work...I used to do the hair for various artists for Grammy's/Academy Awards etc... I will break out an old photo and post
check out Amy
let me know what you think..........
..Killer Chemist


GREY (HAIR'S) ANATOMY - Easy, Cheap & Brilliant Cover for Grey Hair


Works Wonders for the "NEW-TO-GREY HAIR-CROWD"




This method will save you many headaches. . .


  1. buys you some time

  2. if you change your mind going back to grey without problems...

  3. mix it up - show distinguishing greys sometimes - sometimes not

  4. cover roots till next appointment

  5. cover roots: lessen amount of time's you need Salon appointment

  6. only have 10 grey hairs? cover them and nothing else



Friday, June 8, 2007

Bull Semen hits Salon Treatments to Tune of $170. a POP!



After a little more thought....it occured to me . . . who was that person that was sitting around and said, .........
"Hey, if we jerk a bull off, maybe it will help the health of hair", then I looked up who this "Hari Salem" cat was and sure enough...it was a dude! No offense - just funny and logical, I always wonder 'where' things come from it is a habit ingrained in me.

Being a woman, being a cosmetic chemist and a woman, my speciality is HAIR CONDITIONERS, that is where all my research was -- is -- and will be in the future. In the 4 years I have been formulating hair conditioners, I study every new ingredient that comes out that can be added to the formula's each and every month & trust me there are way too many. So to come up with Bull Semen is hilarious to me, I thought > 'hey, I never saw that listed in the Cosmetics & Technology Magazine ("New Hair Formula ingredients" ) I read cover to cover every month' - what on earth would possess someone to reach for that jar on the shelf when formulating a hair conditioner?! Of course, a horny guy !

Many people do not understand this... but a Cosmetic Chemist is the one that designs every hair care and every Cosmetic product you have ever touched...not a Dermatologist....not a Celebrity.....and not even a big shot Hair Stylist.
NONE OF THE ABOVE creates that product that eventually goes on your body and/or hair, plus they would have absolutely NO idea how to begin, what to use, or where to start, ....none - zip- zero.
A Cosmetic Chemist does it for them.

Be very very glad they do, to be one you need to learn light years more than what you pick up in acting or Cosmetology schools...and the Dermatologists have a whole profession to cover their butt so they don't have to know what goes "in" products ( they are called a Pharmacist) - so medical doctors are not what you want to look for as afar as their expertise in skin or hair products - I promise you I know more than that damn Dr. Perricone. He uses something that is so wrong in his face lotions/creams and I know its only because he has no idea what each ingredient is...otherwise he would not have 2 of the ingredients he has in them.

Until I took 2 years out of my life and studied Cosmetic chemistry , I had absolutely NO IDEA the art even existed and believe me... it is an Art ! Not only a beautiful art but also a scientific one, something completely new to me at the time.
Not only do we chose the ingredients to put in the product ( which sounds all fun and games) but more importantly we are making sure the product is sufficiently preserved as well as adequately balanced so the pH level is perfect and protecting the effectiveness of the "active" ingredients - - all of this under the umbrella of 'formulating personal care products". When i started and listened to the words everyone was using...I was positive I would never be able to understand what they were all talking about...the terms- the technology- it all sounded like Japanese to me, this was all way over my head back in School and I would never be able to learn it now.

I pushed on though... I started to read a lot about the chemistry of hair products, and that became my passion... making one hair conditioner after another, those and body cremes, {they are similar products in their make-up and chemistry}....I began making custom hair conditioners & cremes for my regular clients.

I knew their hair so well I would make a batch of hair conditioner up for a year at a time, yes it was a bit pricey - but they all claim it was worth every last penny! I never lacked for people to make them for, it was all I could do - to formulate and cut & color hair.
Ever had a homemade Cake or Pie...from scratch....?
How yummy and flavorful they are compared to the Markets?
That is the exact difference in Killer Strands conditioners and the store bought ones - Light years better.
People that are hooked on them will never use a store bought one again!


I feel strongly that a lot can be done for hair with conditioners, especially the "overnight" models which I would like to explain. My theory on hair care is not exactly what the big manufactures want to hear,
oh well!
I just do not agree that everyone needs a daily 'conditioner, shampoos have so much in them anymore they are sufficient..
a problem we see in the Salon a lot is "build-up"
  • product build-up
  • mineral build-up (chlorine,rust etc. from water)
  • conditioner build-up

To elminate that problem I feel the hair care protocol for the average client is this:

Shampoo: Sulfate-free..... and then ONLY IF your hair is dry and tangly -

Detangler: a spray detangler for easy comb thru

Conditioner : Once a week an overnight conditioner - shampoo-rinse - apply deep conditioner - comb thru (mine is called:Thriven) let it dry for 1 hour prior to going to bed - lay towel on pillow to protect. Sleep 8 hours letting yummy ingredients soak in hair and scalp.. Rinse in morning. Depending on condition of hair this can be done once/twice a week....or once - twice a month....even.

"More" is not always better !

P.S.
I have had requests for 'Thriven' my overnight Hair Conditioner -- from some of you . . . I am going to be using Pay Pal to apply BUY NOW buttons directly to this Blog, ( apparently that can be done??!!) some of the unique products I talk about need to be made available I guess.
I have a fantastic line of hair care for curly and frizzy hair that is my own little secret..I will be bringing that to you as well as soon as I figure out how to make HTML buttons!

Thursday, June 7, 2007

Ethnic Hair Care & The Curls That Love It



Curls~Frizz~Kinks

the problems of the ethnic hair crew

I have yet to meet a person who didn't want the kind of hair they didn't have

Just remember that the next time you get down on yourself and your hair... as I know you curly hairs do. Straight hairs wish they had curly, they really do. Its plain and simple human nature I have decided --to want, what you don't have. As you grow older, that will change and go away....you get comfortable in your own skin (and hair).

The challenges facing the Ethnic hair care client are different than their counterparts....but believe me BOTH have just the same amount of challenges - they are just 'different'.
The most common complaints:
  • dryness
  • fragility & breaking
  • styling options
  • proper products

Surveys indicate the ethnic hair clients seek professional services every 2-3 weeks while their counterparts regularly come every 6-7 weeks....so they do seek out help more. The most common treatment? Relaxers. Both at home versions as well as the Salon/Professional type. During my years in The Salon in Malibu there was no one doing relaxers and I just didn't understand 'why'... so I proceeded to become a Specialist in them. Not a lot of Hair Stylists do them as they are also the most complicated procedure as well as the most critical, dangerous and challenging. Right up my alley. They are the single Salon service where you make the absolute MOST difference in the hair for a client, and after you have completed a successful relaxer you have made a committed and dedicated client "for LIFE", I have never seen a happier more thrilled hair client than the successful hair Relaxer client. Every single one of them calls 2 days later when they shampoo for the first time literally blown away that after the shampoo the hair did not return to its curly frizzy stage - I have received many MANY fantastic thank you gifts for this service unlike any other service I had performed, it was the coolest thing to me.

From my experience I would just never recommend this service for anyone to do at home... ever ..it is just too dangerous and the 'timing' aspect is too crucial. Having weak hair to begin with you just don't have the leeway for mistakes, besides the ingredients used in professional Relaxer products are simply better for the hair.

If you insist on getting one and cannot afford the Salon price (@ $60.00 to $100.00 per hour it comes in as the most expensive Salon procedure - it can take up to 7 hours to complete) the next best step: look into being a hair model for demonstrating its application, go to the local Beauty Academy and get in on their "model night" or their weekly hair model list. { does not mean you need to be model material all over - don't worry!} I know here in LA,many of you interested in this would be more than welcome at the Vidal Sassoon Academy in Santa Monica, and the Paul Mitchell Academy in Orange County...they are both always looking for hair models as are all good Salons and Beauty Schools they never have enough people to work on.

The advantage to this option is:

  • have an instructor standing over their shoulders
  • before they ever put product on live model, spent weeks practicing on 'doll heads with shaving cream'
  • watch the procedure done by instructor on stage a few times...
  • reading on it...
  • studying on it....followed by 'written' testing of it
  • more doll head work..practicing the sectioning and application -- combing-- stretching and the speed needed to do it....
  • THEN they let the students work on real clients

Now I am talking the best Hair schools in the USA which are Vidal Sassoon and Paul Mitchell....the others will be run totally different - do some research. F

This can be a terrific and successful procedure.

When there is a will there is always a way. As this Blog goes on I am hoping more of you will submit questions and comments, I had a lovely girl suggest I write about ethnic hair...I am more than happy to write about every and any subject --- please - - -I look forward to your comments and requests.

Remember a Relaxer is the same exact chemical make-up as NAIR or NEET Or any hair remover....if left on the hair too long........what do you think will happen ? Yes, the hair can be lifted right off the head.

The key to aceing a Relaxer is the "Timing" of it...The timing and the division of the application procedure. I had one Assistant that was trained in depth on Relaxer -application... so he knew {almost} as much as I did, I sent him to 3 different Relaxer Seminars, many stylists do not want to share the job like this...but it is the only way for it to be super successful for both the client AND the stylist. If its done on a man or a woman with a short cut, one can do it, any longer than chin length hair and it becomes the job of 2. When booking one it always had to be on a day he was working because the key to the success is applying - pulling and stretching the hair flat with the Relaxer Creme on the hair and doing it fast....making small sections all around the head and being sure to coat > comb > & stretch...from the minute it has been applied to the minute you hit the shampoo bowl to rinse should be between 9 & 16 MINUTES only! That is not very long, even for the fastest stylists on the planet, doing this correctly at home would be impossible.

That is why you want to have a qualified practitioner perform the relaxer on your hair ~

Remember : TAKE CARE OF YOUR HAIR

INTRODUCTION TO THE NEW HAIR PHOTO RESOURCE


ITS ABOUT DAMN TIME

HALLE-DAMN-LUJEH




the Introduction of a 4th Blog . . . . . . or whatever it's called when it is a BLOG with tons of Pics . . .
would that make it a PLOG?
ENJOY

Monday, June 4, 2007

8 TRICKS TO FINDING THE BEST HAIR STYLIST - IN YOUR AREA

A good stylist is hard to find...that is an understatement of the highest kind

There is at least one Top Stylist in every city and town in the USA, it takes a little Spy work to track them down, believe me its time well spent.

#8 : Call the Chamber of Commerce {every city has one} they most likely have local Poll's that are updated every year giving you the populations favorite/ busiest "Salon" and/or "highest revenue" Salon. Once you get here go to STEP

#7 : Head to the best Mall preferably a Nordstrom and finally the MAC counter in your area, checking out the array of hair cuts & colors of all the make-up artists - find something you like, ask her who she/he uses. See the trend developing ? . . . its all about "personal recommendation".

#6: Stop by the hippest Salon in town and linger at the Receptionist desk for a while...pretend you are looking at products in the waiting area... pay attention to what type of hair cuts & colors goes to who'...

#5 : In the Salon you are in or have decided on - - - ask around and find the stylist whose free time hobby is to paint /draw or sculpt - there is always at least one...An ARTIST makes the absolute best Hair Stylist, yet there are also good Stylists who are not

#4 : Tap Tap Tap the shoulder of someone whose hair you admire, receiving hair complements is normal for them, maybe you will be next, ask who-what-where their stylist is located.

I received many a client from an airplane recommendation of someone spotting my work.

#3: Book a Manicure / Pedicure at the Top salon in your Area spend the entire appointment watching the hair stylists work with their clients, checking out the work they do, choose the one that works within the realm of your likes and dislikes. This is my favorite trick actually.

#2 : Ask for a consultation, every top notch hair stylist I know will give you a free 10-15 minute consultation & it should be free. If you end up using her/him give them an extra $5.00 -$10.00 tip for the consult as well.


#1 : Have a friend pretend to be your personal assistant, secretary, butler or Producer(??) claiming you are some important big shot from some big-shot company....and it is imperative that you get booked with the best stylist in this Salon. Out here in LA we suggest using that you are related in one way or another to a Celeb....that one always works- - as silly as it is..

Saturday, June 2, 2007

HAIR WITHOUT A FACE : Try Different Hair Styles On Your Face



Seems to be a very common request of many.. . . . looking for a website that lets you try different hair styles on a downloaded photo of yourself....



A British site, super sufficient in what most are looking for
:




www.thehairstyler.com

Friday, June 1, 2007

100% NATURAL Hair Color dye: Authentic

A Cosmetic Chemist from India (a doctor no less: Dr. Hari) was relaying the following story of a totally truly 100% natural hair dye, one of my most asked questions
Its not blond...
but its 100% natural and he says it covers Grey...

As a Natural Hair Dye, Yes it works. But the problem is it (the active L-Ascosrbic Acid) is not stable. If one wants to use Indian Gooseberry (Amla), it should be something like a home-made preparation. Not for selling or marketing - in the real sense. Also, it should be used for about a month. The recipe is, plug the Amla berries from the tree, through away the interior nut (Amla Oil is made from this nut - just for your information) . Make a pulp out of the remaining parts in a small iron pot and apply this pulp (as soon as possible) on the hair (it will strongly stain the hand and the dress - so take care) and leave for about 15 to 20 minutes on the hair (remain inside the home. Don't expose to sun light - for well known reasons - stability of the dye gets affected when exposed to sun light). Then wash it off. Repeat this for one month and any one can see - (SEE) - the difference.Yes, even now, women (and also men) in villages in India uses this. In Indian Gooseberry, there are different varieties (Botanically in the same family, there are different species). The one that is used in India is Phyllanthus emblica. For better results, mix Amla pulp with few tannin containing containing plant sources.Regarding its retentivity, it is something like a permanent hair dye. The plus point is, its safety. Next is, as for as someone is using it, he need not worry about greying of hair.

New Hair Styles for 2007: First Hair Style Photo Blog

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