Balayage (hair painting):The Theory That Doesn’t Fly & Why

The More You Know the Less You FEAR

   Had 1 more sad story emailed to me about Balayage this week,  this is a topic I have been tap dancing around for the entire time the KS Blog has been in existence. I have been promising forever to address my opinion about the technique. So, while it is not at all what I was planning on writing today, sometimes adapting to my readers, is the smartest decision.

About 12 – 13 years ago {yep, that’s how old this technique is} I first got wind of BALAYAGE. I can still remember hearing about it, and thought, uh geez……one more “cowboy color” move, I never talked or thought about it again. Once a year – every year, some new “technique’ within the hair color world gets introduced and then proceeds to (almost) always fail. This dinghy Balayage is like gum on my shoe .…it just won’t go away. Everything about it makes absolutely no sense, although for interest in the comment section can some of you poor souls that fell for it, tell me what intrigued you about it in the first place??? I would love to know what intrigued into this ding-dong procedure….???

 

Having wondered ‘where’ these quirky little processes  come from, makes me question - - the reason behind them. Within a Colorists world there is always a “new” technique around the corner. That new technique is almost always just a new name for something we already do, which means it is merely the result of the hair world’s > “Marketing-machine”.  In other words . . . the theory is, if a new technique is announced it will get more people into Salons. Yep, that’s how the world of Color rolls! Why do you think they show pure white snowy blonds ( see my previous post) one month and raven dark haired vixens the next. As long as “change” is happening in hair color, then its a good thing for the “business” of hair color and the world of hair. If everyone were to remain a level 8 B ….year after year after year, what a boring ho-hum world it would be, and how hum drum it would be for business. Just like everything else in today’s world, Hair Color is first and foremost  - -  a business - -  and it needs rejuvenation and spark to stay interesting and provocative, just like any other.

I was trained at …. Vidal Sassoon. A school that has strict rules and regulations for extremely valid reasons. I admire their ways & means of teaching and continue to follow them all to this day. This entire BLOG is littered with both: KC-isms & Sassoon-isms… so if you want to learn the same, I would read and absorb……..read and absorb.

Now, when any Colorist is preparing to color a hair models hair, the first step always is the “consultation”. To me there is no more important step. The reason so many Stylists/Colorists make mistakes, is because they don’t take the time necessary to properly analyze this step and look at their clients hair back story. It is crucial to a successful outcome, to fully

• analyze the hair’s characteristics,
• learn the previous color processes performed
• understand the “desired” look

Now, one of the biggest and most common mistakes one will see on blonds, is when the hair turns yellow/brass/orange/gold . I’ve tried many ways of explaining why that happens, we will try another one today. There is a misconception that ‘brass’ is a color and it can be removed, when nothing could be further from the truth. Its a bit of an ‘odd’ concept how the color Brass, or blorange, or Gold shows its ugly head in hair. But let me try  to explain how, where and why it comes from. I can’t tell you the amount of readers that have asked me if they could use the artificial hair color remover “VANISH” to remove the BRASS from their hair.’ Another KC-ism in Hair Color is

“ ALWAYS USE THE PROPER TOOL FOR THE JOB “

Using Vanish is the complete wrong tool, and it seems to be my issue in not teaching this concept properly….as to why some of you don’t understand why.I would like to try to get this clarified in this post, if you don’t understand, PLEASE ask in the COMMENTS section below, so I can see what I am missing.

 

When you apply color to the hair you are adding color . Color + Color (=) makes more Color, so the hair has more pigment. If the color used is addition only, the hair will often (but not always) be darker.

All virgin hair is shade of brown; it contains all 3 primaries. When hair is dark brown…it is the ‘bluest’ brown -  level 1-4. The most warm browns ( auburn ) are Levels 5-7. Then the lightest or most yellow browns are level 8-10 . . . the color is an uneven combination of the 3 primary colors, still.

Black is super dark Brown…. and blond’s are super light brown.

Brown is made from mixing different amounts of Red, Yellow, & Blue ( the primary colors). So if there is more yellow than red or blue, the brown will be light, even beige. If there is more red than the other 2 primaries, the brown will be warm, and if there is more blue than the other 2 the brown will be dark and cooler looking.

Complementary colors turn a shade of brown when mixed together, for ex: yellow mixed w/ violet achieves a pale brown; because yellow; the stronger color, will dominate the formula. Violet is made from red and blue(primary). When you mix yellow with violet, you achieve a shade of brown. Mixing opposites on the color wheel always results in a “browning out” effect.

Understanding all this about COLOR THEORY, truly is the basis for being a great Colorist. While I know 98% of you merely want to be able to color your own hair correctly. Unfortunately, understanding “COLOR THEORY” is a necessary part of  the puzzle. So, all these little rules and laws will help as you turn your hair from brown to blond and back again. Look at education (any education) as one more means of expanding your knowledge base.

When finally comprehending color theory, it can benefit much more than hair color, it can add to the Interior or Exterior Design of your Home, the Clothing you put together and wear, it can even benefit the Frosting or Decorations you make on a cake. Color Theory affects many different aspects of ones life, and once it sinks in,you will find yourself having “aha” moments that deal with color theory revelations randomly.I receive emails from new Crib Colorists all the time with various stories of how color theory has popped  into their everyday life. Remember ANY education, is good for you.

When I would teach this color theory concept to new COSMO students….they would ALWAYS look at me as though I was wasting their time, so I went back to basics and required all students purchase a set of PLAY DOH. At least with something as fun and as nostalgic as PlayDoh, I could get past their anger & puzzlement and tap into their thirst for knowledge. Having them mix a small portion of yellow and red PlayDoh together – would show them the result was ORANGE….then add an equal portion of blue ( primary) ………what do you get?????………….BROWN. Then mix all different combinations to show them, all primaries when mixed equal brown.. its pretty cool to watch a entire room of COSMO Students have an “AHA” moment. And that “AHA” moment is about how the primary colors of red-yellow & blue, when mixed in uneven amounts equal BROWN! With BROWN being the color of all hair, it is a pretty significant realization. Most of them don’t realize that, but eventually they will.

FIRST, some color theory. . . . .

to have a balanced natural hair color:

all 3 primaries must be present

An imbalance (lack of any of 3 primaries) of primaries leads to an imbalance of end result

Therefore if you are blond, with brassy tones, the method one would use to “COUNTER” the brassy tones is what?

If the hair color is brassy, that means the primary that is the strongest is the YELLOW.

{Primary colors are Red, Blue & Yellow}

So, if the YELLOW is predominant and is what is causing the hair to be an obnoxious brassy color

Use the rule, that if the color is objectionable, then play with the primary colors to solve the problem.Take the 2 other primary colors…..???? RED & BLUE, mix them together which makes PURPLE ( right?)

Add a PURPLE TONER to that brassy Blond and it will knock that brass right out of the hair .

Once you begin to lighten hair….warmth is released. The first pigment to be released during lightening is BLUE. If you start with the blackest most coarse hair and begin to lighten it with bleach, you immediately see a change.

Because BLUE is the first pigment to leave the hair, you would go very quickly into the RED Zone, which is also the most difficult zone to leave. However if you use a microscope to observe the same black hair being lightened, you would see a different dominance of pigment at each step

So, if you were to observe the amount of natural pigment remaining in the hair at each level under a microscope, you would see a dominance of blue pigment at LEVEL 1 – BLACK, Which makes sense because black is really the BLUEST BROWN.

• Level 2: very very dark brown, a dominance of blue/violet, which is still very dark but not black,prevails.
• Level 3 : violet dominates
• Level 4: violet/Red
• Level 5: Red
• Level 6: Red/Orange
• Level 7: Orange

**LEVEL 7, btw is the most difficult stage or level to get past  -  all the trouble with brassy colors in hair stems from this

• Level 8 : DURP Gold
• Level 9: Yellow
• Level 10: Very Pale Yellow

Now, that is an overview of where “brass” comes from and why it is so very difficult to get rid of. It is the most dominant color, it is the hardest color to counter, and the most impossible color to eliminate. There is no avoiding it, it is the most predominant color in everyone’s hair, no matter ‘what’ color the Virgin hair is.

Now to explain ‘why the Ballyage technique makes no sense to a Colorist…..or to “this Colorist” anyway!

The color hardest to get out of the hair………Gold/Brass {Level 7 Brass/Gold is like Glue}

The way in which hair is lightened is by applying bleach to the hair. The bleach then “lifts” the  color OUT OF THE STRANDS….in an effort to lighten it into the desired blond shade of choice….. in other words its like  sucking the color out the strands of hair…..

(I want to put this in the most simplified terms possible)

Say the hair is BLACK………….and you DESIRE PLATINUM

The mixture of Bleach plus 40 VOLUME DEVELOPER  is applied to the black hair and the bleach begins to suck the color out of the hair…………..

The lightening train goes like this….color is drawn out of the hair strand in this method:

• BLACK - ->>> GOES TO
• DARKEST BROWN ----> > >TO
• DARK  BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
• BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
• LIGHT BROWN - - - -  GOES TO
• RED - - - > > >  GOES TO
• RED-ORANGE---->>> WHICH goes TO - - - >>>
• ORANGE- - - > > >  WHICH THEN GOES TO
• GOLD  - - -  - which goes to
• YELLOW - - - -> > > >
• PALE YELLOW BLOND
• PALE BLOND the desired colored when millions of women go looking for a Sun-Kissed Blond Look).

Now what happens to so very many blonds that have BRASS instead of BLOND….is the lightener ( of whichever type or kind has been used)has not been left on long enough, OR a strong enough developer was not used. Resulting in the hair lightening up but getting stuck at the “GOLD” Level…..see it up there? If the lightener would have stayed on longer or a stronger volume developer would have been used it would have been able to climb those remaining 2 levels to PALE YELLOW BLOND .

Now when this dippy Balayage method, paints the Lightener on the hair –  FreeHand as you see in this photo: 

Why would you paint the lightener on the hair free hand? I have no idea what that accomplishes?

I wonder if they think it looks more natural??  It won’t.   ………I wonder if they think it’s bg ier or faster. . . .NO WAY, Foils are much easier, while also keeping moisture in and on the strands. Moisture keeps the lightener active and working, the last thing you want is for it to dry out, which is what would happen in this Balayage technique

As a Colorist what I want when I color hair is “control”. Control and Timing so I know exactly what is going to happen and WHEN. If you are to paint lightener on the hair you are going to lose the body’s warmth that comes from using foils. Once the lightener is applied to the strand of hair then the foil is folded over that strand …. the body’s heat/warmth gently helps the lightening action along. if you don’t use foil, you lose that, which means you have a much greater risk of ending up in the BRASS RANGE. The dreaded BRASS – range. its why we use foils. Lightening hair without the use of foils is archaic and unnecessary. If anything, apply the foils with the lightener, as hair stylists you must learn how to check hair that has lightener on it, and KNOW WHAT STAGE IT IS, I mean it doesn’t take long…in about 2 months of practice you should know what hair looks like when you scrape off the lightener from a clients foils….to be able to tell whether or not you should rinse a client now or in 20 minutes. Yes, its an  art, but dammit, get GOOD at that art….its why you went into this biz, don’t be a slacker.

I cannot even figure out what the purpose of Balyage is, to be perfectly frank. With foils you can create just about any work of art you would like….. foils let Color 1 be on a certain portion of hair. . . . while allowing Colors 4-7 & 9 to NOT be other portions….

Using foils are the mark of a Great Colorist. Everything they claim Balayage can create we have been doing for years with foils. There is a certain strain of hairstylists that don’t use foils and the only reason I could possibly imagine for not using foils is laziness. Foils are used for the heat they retain – the art they allow to have and the mobility they impart when trying to display a rainbow of colors WITHOUT BRASS in the blond’s.

I will have at least a half doze n people every week ask me what they can do to get the brass out…..or the ‘orange’ out…..or

The only way to lighten hair with “control” over how light it does or does not get is with Bleach. So many are hesitant of the use of bleach, . As an experienced Colorist, bleach can be your best friend … there are just soooo many uses for it, but never ever use it without plenty of experience behind you.

Balayage  began in the country of France, which explains a lot (to me) . Balayage,  is a French term for hair painting. It is a freehand placement of highlights, without the use of foils, allows for a more natural color application that complements and contrasts in all the right places.

This is what Balyage looks like;

Think before you request this technique, ask that Stylist if they also do foils. Remember foils give the colorist more control and  get the hair PAST that dreaded ‘brass’ stage.

Something, anyone Loves!

Killer Chemist

“Highlights Are History” Killer Strands versus Vogue, Literary Infringement or ?

Your Opinion?

With my unusual step into the “writing world” via this Blog, I have had more than my share of surprises as to how the weird world of writing works. Over and over I have stated, “I…AM…NOT…A…WRITER”, never had the interest, talent or desire to be one -- never wanted to be accused of being a lousy one. I pride myself in all my endeavors of becoming a master, not too sure where that comes from. Within this new medium (Internet) I knew of no other manner in which to teach the masses, the information I have taught here in the Blog. So, I conformed – gave it my best effort and our 3 year anniversary is 3 weeks from tomorrow, I’m pretty proud of that. 3 years of writing 1-5 posts per week, by a non-writer.

One of my first wake-up calls to the legal side of the whole shebang was when I (1st or 2nd) wrote about the glories of Argan oil, a long time back. Some Academic woman from the Midwest came down on me so hard I still remember not sleeping as a result. Accusing me of “stealing information”, “literary infringement”, improperly quoting it . I think the word bibliography was used….all sorts of ramblings. She acted as if I stole the Mona Lisa pasted it on this Blog and swore on the Bible, I painted it myself. See, I can only quote Artwork  ;-))))

I was stunned, to say the least.

What happened was I …yes, I borrowed a couple technical sentences straight out of a NY TIMES piece on the subject and didn’t change them at all. I used the direct sentences from the article, so about 2/3 of the paragraph was word for word from the article. I never said it was my theories, none of that….to this day I still remember feeling very ill that day and just not having the health to write my own sentences that made good sense. I suppose I may have sub-conscientiously knew it was wrong, but I don’t remember.

So I began a little online verbal battle with her via the ‘comment - section’ of the BLOG ( which can no longer be done)…. so everyone could see that I had innocently made a mistake that I didn’t even know existed { remembering all the while, “writing” is not my world}.

While she was firing off all her Academic malarkey to me I was on my end researching every type of copy write and infringement topics I could find, she was right and I was wrong and after the 24 hour battle instead of edit it, ever so carefully,  I deleted the entire article. The only one that lost in that war was YOU the readers, because It was a great article about how I feel about (natural earth grown)oils and how I feel that everyone is really missing out by not having them in diet and life. ( I’m presently working on a new version as I feel very strongly about the positive effects of oils/lipids for the human body)

Her little snide comments, then my little snide comments. . . it was silly of me…BUT, I learned my lesson and I never did it again. If she had done it offline and personally, she would have accomplished a much better outcome – I would have listened/learned and most likely we would still be speaking today.  She claimed to be an “educator” and I felt a pang of sorrow for her students.

About a week ago I received an email from one of my trusty readers that said this:

“See article of the same title, "Highlights are History," in the April 2010 issue of Vogue.

Ah, to be one step ahead of the masses...”

I wasn’t quite sure what she meant, so I Googled VOGUE, Googled the sentence - nothing about Vogue and the sentence came up. The only thing that came up was all my articles and posts on the subject of highlights are history – my writings on both Blogs on my PLOGS --  I named the one  – because it is exclusively photos – no words ;-))))

If I was doing such a bad thing. . . Why is VOGUE not doing a very bad thing ?? They have FACT checkers, they know what the rules and regs are, they most likely invented many of them.

Page 175 of the APRIL ISSUE of VOGUE magazine is TITLED:

HIGHLIGHTS  ARE  HISTORY

now According to the U.S. Copyright Office, "Your work is under copyright protection the moment it is created and fixed in a tangible form that it is perceptible either directly or with the aid of a machine or device”.

Well, a computer fits that bill, and if you look over to the right and down in the side bar… you will see this

go down to “H”, then to

HIGHLIGHTS ARE HISTORY

I have (at least 7) posts on this subject AND HAVE even LOGO-ED THE TOPIC,

TRYING MY HARDEST TO GET OTHERS TO THINK ABOUT BANISHING THE TECHNIQUE

So, why does a big publication like VOGUE get to steal from the “little guy” ? and its OK ?

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

You know what's even more odd ?  About 10 months ago, Killer Strands received an email from an anonymous reader, with the enquiry  “would like to talk about your work” with the responsible party and her email being her:

“ name “ @ conde naste.com

CondeNaste owns Vogue.

How do I know that? My daughter is an accomplished fashion photographer, studied under the late great IRVING PENN for 2 years in New York. Her checks and her insurance were paid through CONDE NASTE, as Mr. Penn was employed by VOGUE/CONDE NASTE  right up to nearly his death at 92, last year.

I emailed that address daily for a couple weeks with no response.

Forgot about it. Until Now.

I don’t know what the “lead-time” is for magazines. . .but the whole thing is a little too “co-inky-dink” for m.  One remembers an email like that, I don’t  remember much . . . but I distinctly remember that because I really hoped it would bring more notice to Killer Strands (my main goal).  If I am to get the word out about how to achieve - and keep > STRONG – HEALTHY - SHINY Hair….then I am going to need more help. Like notices by magazines such as VOGUE. (Although theft was not really what I had in mind).

I want to hear what you think about this…. and for a couple days I am going to (attempt) to open the comments up for direct posting to the BLOG (normally I must weed though the SPAM in them ) 

These are the 2 pages from VOGUE….

 

Vogue   Magazine                          

Sarah Brown : Beauty Director

email :

TalkingBack@Vogue.com

Letters :  VOGUE MAGAZINE     4 Times Square    NewYork  New  York,  10036

 

Killer  Chemist

What is the Difference In Professional Hair Color & Hair Color @ 15,000 Sally’s or Local Beauty Supply’s?

 

NOTHING

the Quality of the    

Color

& Developer

and that’s it

there are no tricks and no secret information Hair Stylists have

None - Zip - Zero

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Applying the color to the hair through a bottle or the more proper method of using a tint bowl and a brush is about the only other major difference I think there is. Using a Tint brush you can apply pressure to the strands which forces the hair color into the strands and produces a more even color , in my humble opinion. Every top Colorist in the world use this method for that reason.

Procedures change in the hair color world for a reason. Usually that reason is -  “THEY WORK BETTER”

Just a heads up to many of you who love the Wella Koleston Perfect line of hair color, we have been missing 4 complete pages off the new chart of colors

I can’t believe it, but it now explains a huge question I had wondering why no one was ordering these particular tones. What a dingbat I am, and this won’t be the last time.

The BRV Series  which you see here is a Brown-Red-Violet… a gorgeous warm brown, I wouldn’t say the Red-Violet is anything monumental just very subdued – perfect – these are all amazing colors, if you want more of a jolt of either the red or the violet you would use this as the base of your formula.

Lets say you want a Level 6 BRV as your “desired color”, with more of a jolt of Violet to it than just this mellow version they give you.     

I would use:  1 ounce of 7BRV ( because of how dark the colors run) 

+ 1/2 ounce of 0/66VV (violet booster) =

most likely with 20 Volume ( must answer the Killer8 to know that)

 

Now on the other hand if you basically wanted a nice Level 5 BRV but with a little punch more of RED, I would choose a Base of

6BRV- 1 ounce ( we called this color Heather for years) and then add to that

+1/2 ounce to 1 ounce of  6/45 – 6RRV.

Both of these colors have a corresponding color in Color Touch, which is what is so easy to use to refresh the ends.

Back when my hair was miraculously groomed, I would always refresh my lengths 2 weeks after the main color. Which is exactly what all those celebrities with their never-ending gorgeous looking hair do. . . I would show up at their door with my entire mobile hair color silver metal Case ( its made to hold rifles, but worked great for my ‘traveling color business’ which was a large part of my business just before my diagnosis . We all know reds fade quicker than any other color…but using them in this manner with BROWN as the main hue, that problem won’t be an issue.

The next page forgotten was a page I really hesitate putting on, as I swear to you in 10 years I never used a one. Its the “G” page = GOLD. If clients wanted some “gold” in their hair color I would use a “N” series color. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I know it might seem odd to you but I really want to try to get through to everyone, that when you are planning your formula for your next hair color or any hair color for that matter…the idea is not to pick out the color you want from hair color swatches. The idea is to pick colors that will counter the problems you are having…. say if your DURP is brassy, yet you want a pleasant – more mellow – GOLD……..you do not pick colors from this page of the chart. That would be disastrous , I would choose “N” series if the brass isn’t too bad if it is then I would pick a color from either the /71 BA series  ( Brown Ash)- which is my most used category, it fights most issues and turns out beautiful browns. Also the next page which is the  /07 NB series – which stands for NEUTRAL BROWN...awesome colors that fight most common issues the NB series...Neutral Brown a very straight-up Brown – the Frosty Brown collection.

This Series came out right about the same time the /71 BA series came out - - everyone was thrilled as they had finally put in 1 tube what every person I know was making. I mean mixing > 1/2 ounce of 8N and 1/2 ounce of 8 B

= makes 8NB.

Which was one of my most commonly used combo’s.

Another great brown?

7N  + 7A + 7 M + 7B  = 7BAMN………..awesome and it covers gray wonderfully if needed, or the color in general is superb. No need to switch it up for non-gray or Gray. Just a good-to-know straight-up-Bombshell BROWN  . . . just trying to show you how to formulate not using the prettiest hair color swatches.

At my stations in the Salon - these color swatch boards were prohibited. If you don’t understand how they are made and how the Level system works then they are really pointless.  The way to get clients hair the exact right color they want is by using colors that fight the hairs objectionable tendencies, such as ‘reds’-‘oranges’ ‘brass’ etc.. and for that you must choose the color swatches that are not very “pretty”….they can’t be…in order to fight “red tones” the brown needs to be ‘green’ based, not exactly a pleasing-to-the-eye color. 

I feel,  that is where a lot of the problems stem from with both Crib Colorists & Stylists getting the end hair color  > wrong. So I will just keep trying to explain it in different ways – hoping everyone will continue to read it. What I discovered when I  learned cosmetic chemistry – was – to just keep reading the part I didn’t understand over and over -  I swear it will sink in, I know that because a whole lot of Crib Colorists have been born from that exact method. Repetition breeds comprehension, is my line.

And lastly we have Wella’s RED’s which is pretty much a straighter shooter:

I use and love every red on this page, Wella is famous for having the best “reds” in the business, and I agree whole heartedly. They are all beautiful. The categories of red are:

• R -- Red
• GR – Gold/Red
• RG -- Red/Gold

Which ever letter is ‘first’ is the more predominant color in the tube. I mean to me a GR and an RG are completely different. I almost always will use the R and RG categories – because of my dislike for “gold” in most heads of hair. The reason I don’t like Gold? Clients don’t like it, its not really flattering to anyone’s skin or eyes either.

Any questions head to the group

KillerStrands GOOGLE Group

Wella came out with this new technology a few years back, for their “RED” colors calling it: “INNOVATIVE  REDVOLUTION”:  meaning their red shades contain a 5 sided molecular structure that reflects red light and provides a deeper and more dense penetration of color into hair structure. As usual I didn’t believe it at first, but once I began using it, they were pretty right-on. Don’t go too much on the EXACT colors you see on these charts here, if your computer monitor isn’t set to the exact same numbers as mine is – well its not going to look the same

But I am so glad to bring these all to you, so you may have the complete picture of colors offered.

If you have questions about your hair color formula, for 2 weeks now I have been having many customers , purchase the quantity of tubes of color they would like to use ( plus IN-DEPTH & Gleam) – then, at checkout ( in box at top where you can add comments or questions) : leaving the colors blank and answering the basic KILLER 8 questions so I will make the decision of your formula for you.  Its been working out well, so if you have been hesitant with your first Crib Colorist adventure, right now is the time to do it as you get my personal evaluation. You must be 100% honest about your hair answers, or the answer won’t be as perfect for you. I don’t have time any longer for the back and forth emails – which is why I had to take the consultations down.

So give that a try if you feel like becoming a crib colorist.

Killer Chemist

Must Wear Ways for Hair This Spring

Inside Track on Hottest Trends

My monthly hair ‘zines show up from Europe and I get all inspired, they take hair so much more seriously over there. They monthly announce new collections and style predictions, almost always using American Celebrities style to draw their hypothesis from. Not a fan of the ‘celebrity’ thing, but am sweet on the fact that they include us in on their crystal gazing.

For Spring ( is it spring where you live?) they have picked 5-6 looks – I always like about 1/2 of them – remember this is Europe and it is a strictly hair magazine…LA doesn’t count as we don’t have seasons ( which personally I abhor).

First off they have chosen

                      FUTURISM

Hair with a sci-fi edge

                         w/ slicked back chic

Futurism was everywhere on the runway, it shows off facial features quite well, and in my opinion it stems from the world wide appeal of the movie AVATAR. Style in clothing and hair always takes its lead from whatever is popular in other art forms. Many times its movies….the whole Flat screen TV- BLUE RAY movies, 3-D experience is bombarding our civilization so Futurism was not at all a surprise.

I would use the combo of SUDZZ Blowout and Sebastian’s Shaper for this tricky look. By combining the 2 then emulsifying by rubbing the 2 together super quickly, you will want to apply to damp hair, then blow dry carefully for ‘structured support’ and hold that is touchable and humidity resistant.

PLAYTIME

Bows ruled the runway as designers went big on kooky cool w/ bright colors

 

Its funny I was talking to my youngest daughter who has so much style ….yet - doesn’t even realize it…asked her what I should carry in the store for hair accessories, I want to add a whole new category of products (hair accessories oh and scents too are on their way - my own) Before Xmas she told me “bows” – anything with bows….How she knew BEFORE the runway shows – is beyond me – but she does that a lot.  Personally these king size bright color bows are for people like Katy Perry, not your every day person . . . but you can tone it down wear smaller/ more subtle bows – in not such a bright-a_s color !  Bows were seen all over the Marc Jacobs show, so I guess its not just for K. Perry.

Messy - dressy

          Natural, soft texture and

brimming with a halo       of flyaways,

no-effort hair has never look so glamorous

This girl could be the 3rd triplet of the Olsen twins…this is the “just rolled out of bed” hair but it looks hotter than hot, and everyone has wanted this look for about the last 10 years… at least they have here in Southern California…I would say this is and has been the number 1 look by my clients for about a decade – although I never realized that until – just now. You notice I don’t carry a lot of styling products, but I really should start…. so many of my clients want /wanted this look – this or slick straight. . . . and besides serums – GLeam and a few light light hair sprays and root lift products I guess I don’t carry enough. See this whole ‘writing thing’ is as therapeutic for me as it is for you! ha ha.

Back to the subject – This look has a really nonchalant finish, complete with wispy, translucent ends, and a hint of static and shine. Its fashion forward enough not to look grungy though, its hair that’s been styled to look carefree and effortless – messy yet dressy at the same time. Corkscrew  a few random pieces, apply a texturizer + a serum and do the ‘ole “scrunch” with a diffuser on the end of your dryer..

2 …of my cocktails

                 great for this look

Combine the desired amount of SUDZZ  Zephyr and SUDZZ Lemonade Dreamz in palms and emulsify by rubbing together – apply to damp hair and distribute evenly. Volumize with a weightless touch. Perfect for fine hair {increases hold a tad}

Combining SUDZZ Aquafix (yes, I know its a conditioner – but used as a styling product its a completely different animal)  with SUDZZ  Zenyth  and emulsify, apply to damp hair and distribute evenly.  Ideal for those clients with medium to thick that want softness and control. Excellent for controlling “expandable” hair that becomes unruly during day time.

the MIGHTY-

                BOUFF

Think grown-up and groomed Amy

                     plus a little chic-cred

Bouffant is the word and we all know where it started. Yep, Amy Winehouse can’t stand up, but oh well, long live her hair – I guess is the message by their choice of this.  I mean I loved her hair at the beginning as Hair Stylists you are trained to adore ‘change’ you had to or every person that has left your chair would look like a Stepford wife.

Hair has still got guts, texture and ultra volume, but it looks less dull and haphazard don’t you think? Its an in-expensive looking version of Emmy Award hair. You need 3 tools for this look:

1. Tail comb or teasing brush
2. bobby pins
3. Shaper Hair Spray ( for lift AND hold)

I feel Anna Paquin really got it right:

For the look  - -  first a little GLEAM ( have you seen what it does for split & dry ends, its crazy successful)lightly blow-dry – putting velcro rollers in the last 30 minutes all on the top of the crown – hit with hair dryer, if speed is needed, teasing brush/comb the crown - - finish off with either Airplay or Shaper and I would even use a little Lemonade …to finish off give yourself a long sweeping side fringe. WEELLLLLLLLLAAAA!

My feel from the magazine is that crazy colors are coming back, I adore them…I think they should be a staple of hair color and always be used if not in small ways….some times. They are TRUE semi permanents – NO DEVELOPER, so no damage to the hair. I was happy to see quite a few of the new Clairol line of Semi Permanents Killer Strands began carrying ordered this past week. They are such an amazing answer, if you have damaged-fried hair and just have to do something with the color / or simply if you refuse to use developer on your hair….They do not lighten hair at ALL. Which is a true Semi Permanent and I’m sure you can now see why they had fallen out of favor, 80 % of all color is lightening clients present color in the 21st Century. I’m in process of trying to get a swatch book for you on the Clairol BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION so hold tight.

Here are a couple of the shots that were so inspiring to me

Semi Permanents are free of Peroxide and ammonia or the Color Touch Line is a also a super safe and gentle color option as well.  You know if hair color is applied correctly  - - it does not damage the hair at all  - -  I now have about 1200 online crib colorists with happy healthy hair that is colored. All done by some time and effort put in in reading the blog under categories

Remember Highlights are History . . .  I realize not everyone can pull off purple hair . . . you have to admit – this is subtle yet smashing . . . the color was applied UNDER NEATH, we call in a PEEK-A-BOO technique….works for “corporate-types that must pull off a ‘business-appearance’ Monday thru Friday : then on week-ends do a complete 180 degree transformation  - -

you would be shocked @ how many of these people – are in our world….a helluva lot

Spring Forward

Killer Chemist

Hair We Go Again - Female Pattern Hair Loss: 1 in 3 Women Suffer From Beginning @ Age 17

10,000 Heads Step 1 – Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo Exclusively

  "I'm not only the president of the company, I'm also a client"

Wasn't that Bosley's commercial years back??...or something to that effect ? 

Well, as lame brain as that line is, you can't fight the fact that BOSLEY is the first company to treat hair loss and like Wella when you have been in the business for over 50 years, you are bound to be great at it.

These people have done their homework...these shampoos  have great ingredients and are reasonably priced.  Which is why I have chosen to carry this line of hair loss/ thinning Shampoos. I still believe that the conditioners that come with this shampoo (or any shampoo for that matter) are like pouring a bottle of body lotion on your hair - right after you have washed it.   I mean..??? Why do that? the formula for a hair conditioner is the EXACT same formula as a body lotion or body cream (in the cosmetic chemistry world the same 2 products are called an Emulsion - an emulsion is the mixture of oil & water – or butters & water....... I promise you)    The day I realized that, I tell you I almost cried. I could not believe it, I still can’t believe it. What a major ‘dupe by a whole lot of large manufacturers on us the unsuspecting public – and even unsuspecting hair stylists. I never knew that – my mentor doesn’t know it  even Annie Humphries (QUEEN OF COLOR) doesn’t know it.

And Why?

The 2 worlds never collide really.

As a hair stylist you concerned mainly about how the clients hair looks on the “outside”. In school that is all you learn. How to change color, blow dry, cut, style . . . all the “outside” traits. No one ever taught us how a shampoo is made, how a conditioner is ‘made’….how a styling product is ‘made’. Which is why when I see one more hair stylist hawk their new line of hair care products, I get furious. . . I KNOW THEY DON’T HAVE A CLUE HOW THEY ARE MADE – or WHAT TO DO TO MAKE THEM A GOOD PRODUCT.  That is the Cosmetic Chemists job.

 

So then you go to the cosmetic chemist, who sits in a lab of a large corporation and comes up with formula’s for shampoo’s, conditioners, all day long. They never see people. They never touch hair. They have absolutely NO IDEA how to blow dry hair, they don’t know volume from ‘flat’ because they have never styled hair, cut hair, or even yet . . . never have colored one head of hair. They do not TOUCH HAIR, how in the world can you expect them to make a good shampoo if they have no idea how hair itself works? ? ?  Which is why we have sooooo many lousy products out there. Those 2 worlds are completely different and they both aren’t too fond of the other.

The Chemists think the Hair Stylists are dumb beauty school dropout types………..and the Hair Stylists think the Chemists are just a bunch of lab rat geeks without a clue as to the beauty and art of hair. Both have valid points… BUT, what about a decent shampoo? How in the Hell is that achieved?

I’m hoping that now with  new technology and applications like the one you are reading right at this very minute… {Killerstrands Blog } it will open their eyes and they begin listening to the people  - - - “ YOU ”  ! If you all support my Blog and my Store, that shows the big corporate yahoo’s that you are not going to just buy the crap they throw in front of your nose…not anymore. You want good ingredients that cater to keeping our hair on our heads -- not just cheap ones so they rake in astronomical profits. Because that is what is happening now. Sulfate’s probably cost these large manufacturers pennies and I’m talking 2 or 3 pennies not even 9 or 10…then 60-70% of a shampoo’s formula is water . . so I’m sure you can see my point.  These shampoo’s I carry have used better ingredients – MUCH BETTER ingredients, so that their profits aren’t nearly as big I promise you. Which of course is not the point to any of us. The point is you should pay for what you get, and they should stop reaping such large profits off of junk products. Because of our uneducated state – we never knew – independently we all thought, “it was just us”. I’m here to tell you  its not us……………..its THEM!

What happened here at Killer Strands and why this world has been opened up to you “the public”  - - is because I “was” a Hair stylist – trained by the best in the world at the best School in the world. Who became ill, and could no longer go back to standing in a Salon for hours on my bad leg. So instead of just giving up I decided to begin studying Cosmetic Chemistry – so I, a hair stylist – totally 100% innocently cracked into the world of the cosmetic chemist and now understand how to make these treasured products. I’ve made my own entire line … just never had the $$ to begin from the ground up on production. So I’ve given it a go one product at a time.

But, the magic I see here is that I wonder if there is any other person – skilled in both arts. Cosmetic Chemistry & Hair Styling – that is who these big companies need to hire and/or produce. So they have people that understand BOTH mediums. But for now………..you have me. I hope my information and my message is understood.

I believe in using a Sulfate-free shampoo with wonderful ingredients & SOMA Protein Leave-in Spray (de-tangles & smooths ) and this line of Bosley shampoos fits the bill nicely. I honestly love every ingredient in this line of shampoos after reviewing the ingredients the shampoos for non-color treated shampoo are actually great for color-treated, I don't see one objectionable ingredient in any of the shampoos...not one! So I would not worry about any of them for anyone’s hair.

Many people are under the misconception the only thing the Trinity, called Killer Strands, cares about is 'hair color'...when nothing could be further from the truth.
*The number 1 subject on which all else is based in all of my posts is achieving HEALTHY HAIR - first and foremost*

Improperly applied hair color is the number 1 reason for unhealthy hair, unfortunately. So that is why the subject comes up as much as it does, besides all the new and current Crib Colorists that have spawned up across the country due to Killer Strands teachings.

Now this Bosley line is of course Sulfate-free but it uses the surfactants that I have found the most success with, its a more expensive ingredient…which is the only reason I can assume not very many companies use it. It also contains many herbal extracts that I like for a healthy scalp which encourages a longer hair cycle, a healthier hair cycle - Sage extract & Pentapeptides, Rice Amino Acids, Panthenol, Kelp Extract and Vegetable Protein.
Hair can never have too much protein. Ever.

Here's what the company says about its product:

Bosley Defense Nourishing Shampoo for Normal to Fine / Non Color-Treated Hair is a Gentle, sulfate free cleanser that helps to create a healthy environment for hair and scalp. Cleanses and removes toxins such as DHT from the hair and scalp skin, a primary cause of hair thinning and hair loss.

Use: Apply to wet hair, massage gently, *leave two minutes* and rinse.

*LifeXtend Complex:*
* Hydrates and nourishes while strengthening and fortifying the follicles and hair shaft for thicker, fuller looking hair
* Inhibits toxins such as DHT, a primary cause of hair thinning and hair loss
* Sulfate free, Gentle safer cleansing without potentially harmful ingredients
* Sage Leaf Extract helps stimulate healthy hair growth

Eventually we will have all 6 shampoos but are starting with 4 to see how well they do. But, you know hair thinning and loss should be treated the exact same way cancer is.. PREVENTION WORKS THE BEST>. In other words, if you have any signs at all, I would print out that 10,000HEADS List and get cracking on it. The first step that needs to be changed is Step number 1 – NO SULFATES in your shampoo, and here is the perfect shampoo. If you have any inclination at all that your hair is thinning the idea is to prevent that from advancing any further by running the 14 steps as close to as you possibly can.

Which does not mean trying to do all 14 steps at once. Remember, no fanatics here. Take on 1 step at a time or 2 max. Work them into your way of life, slowly and with purpose.

I have thousands of successes, why don’t you try to be the next one ?

Killer Chemist

High Lift Blond, Achieving Lightest Blond – Zero Bleach

Battle of High Lift Blond Brands

I believe the last big new technology we’ve had in hair color was the product MAGMA, which is a one-step bleach and tone. Before that the next newest technology was the introduction of the high-lift blonde. Whoever coined the term “high-lift blonde” – should win an award… its brilliant. I mean if you are going to either go to a Salon and ask for a “blond” or chose one to do to yourself, wouldn’t the “high-lift blond” be the one you wanted to use? As opposed to just the “blond”? I certainly would . . . I mean to use a “high-lift blond” as opposed to a “bleach”….well of course you are going to choose the “high-lift'’ I mean – who wouldn’t? Just trying to make you all well aware of the “WORDING” used in this world of hair color and how misguiding it can be and to watch out for it. There are so many other factors to consider before choosing a process just for the “name”….PLEASE PLEASE do your homework, before asking from a Colorist, or performing on yourself. The technique called, “Bleach & Tone” versus the technique “High-lift Blond” are the 2 most popular blonding techniques and each of them are wonderful applications. Just depends the hair you are performing them on and the result you are seeking.

Many of you probably think blond is blond. Well, as in any art - - - there are hundreds of degrees of blonding…. from the darkest

level 7 Blond

to a

Level 8 Blond

to a

Level 9 Blond

to a

Level 10 Blond

to a

Level 11 Blond

or to the famous Marilyn Monroe

Level 12 Platinum Blond

Look at the range in just those 5 levels of blondes. They are completely different. Its always been my feeling that the Level System is just way TO SMALL. I mean for 50 years it was level 1 through 10, then about 18 years ago they added level 11 & 12 when the HIGHLIFT Tints were introduced to the world of Hair Color. To me I see such a vast amount difference from one level to another that I feel, at the bare minimum - - - the System should have 20 Levels not 12…or 24 would be even better. That way there wouldn’t be such a radical difference between 2 levels. I mean Level 1-2-3 are so close you need a magnifying glass and a headlight to distinguish them all from each other, they are so damn dark. But between level 6 and 7 it is a huge difference…..as well as between Level 7 and 8. When people ask me for a level estimation I almost always use 2 numbers to distinguish which end of the Level I am talking( or thinking) about. I will say “ oh you are a 7-8 if its on the lighter end of a Level 7 or a 6-7 if its on the darker end of a 7 ! Which is why I feel we need a 20 Level System as opposed to a 12 level system.

Now with the recent experience with Renbow, I went on a mission to try to test all the high-lift blonds on the market. We used to do this annually ( every january) within the Salon, when I had multiple assistants…all my assistants were always students from Sassoon so they were schooled in the same strict standards I was . . . as goofy as some may think it to be . . . I saw many talented individuals come out of that school. This time I have been doing it, which is good for me to actually see for myself & that way I can write from first hand experience as well. I have been experimenting with processing times, on 2 different levels of virgin hair…. level 5-6 and on Level 7-8 with various brands of high-lifts . . going off of what other Colorists I know use and like. You know something else I discovered? There are a few lines that have a product exactly like WHITE Genie !! Wella has one that works EXCELLENT called Blonding Booster.

I applied Wella’s Color Perfect in Pearl Blond which is 12 CV without the Blonding Booster and was not impressed, but with just a 1/2 ounce of Blonding Booster, it was a gorgeous BRASS-FREE Level 10 Blond……….absolutely LOVED it. ZERO damage – hair was in excellent condition much better than with White Genie….Makes me mad that I didn’t do this a long time ago . . So that is a definite winner and being added to the Store and my list of “loves” ! I am actually very excited about the entire move and change…..as I found at least 6 new high-lifts that I am proud to introduce to you and that I will be using myself…. I always restricted myself to using 100A exclusively…which was a pain in the ass, because “getting” it was a frickin’ nightmare….NOW I have so many options….something a busy colorist needs.. The high-lift blond kit is the number 1 selling hair color BY FAR on Killer Strands - - - of all the colors we carry, so that is why I have done this . . . I know this bores the brunettes . . . but have a heart for your fellow platinum-haired vixens! Apparently we have a lot of blonds out there, and I just thought it was here in California that people liked to adorn those golden locks . . . but I guess not.

Now with every single one of my strand tests I processed them for a minimum of 75-90 minutes, and I use a plastic cap over them to keep warmth “in” as I do on my clients. I know my Stylists who use hair dryers but that is where the hair receives its most damage… if you use the body’s own warmth and perform the process in a warm room - - the health of the hair stays INTACT.

The other 2 brands so far that I want to recommend are Schwarzkopf who’s 12.0 N which is a neutral . . and its /1 series is Lavender based Ash I was just thrilled to find out as well. Now Schwarzkopf was a brand we used way back at Sassoon but it was bought out by an American company so I lost interest in it - - quite a while ago. But, remembering back, yes, we all liked the high-lifts made by them a way back when……….. Something interesting to you . . . Schwarzkopf is the company that developed VANISH, a long long LOOOOOOOONG time ago when it was called MODULAT. So I was glued to this company via Modulat for years.. Then the owner sold Modulat off - the patent and the whole shebang for millions… But anyway…. what I have discovered is Schwatrzkopf’s 12.1 ASH is the single best HIGH-Lift on its own. No booster. So the replacement for Renbow’s 100A {our number 1 selling color ( by a LOT= btw) } is Schwarzkopf's 12.1. Now they also make a booster . . . which they call a Blonding “Extract” . . . which can be added. I haven’t even tried it yet, as I didn’t see a need to the 12.1 A …..maybe a tad with 12.0 N…and the 12.4 B (Beige) . . . they were all gorgeous without a booster. But for those of you with a need for more lift, I will definitely carry the Blonding EXTRACT – Schwatrzkopf.

Then the 3rd high lift that was yummy was MATRIX’s ( which surprised me) but then I remembered that all the girls that worked in the old Salon with me used this one particular High-lift

by Matrix called UL-PA . Ultra Lift Pearl Ash. . . . and it was sold out at both of the supply houses I tried to get it at. . . which now shows me that an awful lot of Colorists must use it. I did not notice a booster with Matrix, but again - - the color was so perfect I couldn’t think of why I would need one. . . . but will carry that as well. So watch for that in the near future. I truly cannot see why any of the boosters can’t be interchanged with any brand. I have not tested that theory, but will. . . .coming up. You know science formulas' and theories that are used with “hair color are plain and simple and just not that complicated so there is pretty much no reason it shouldn’t work.

I re-tested the 100A by Renbow in this same review of the high-lifts. . . because I had 2 separate people tell me they had weird lavender-brown deposits….using it. What I immediately thought of , was “of course” . . . Paul Mitchell should be just about at the sabotage point…as Renbow has just recently completely been shut down here in the USA. It now is going to be made in Europe, and then imported in the USA, under a different name ( by law). NAME…but[ that won’t be for a while. I didn’t want to leave many of you high and dry . . . and now I am very VERY confidant I won’t have to. I mean I still have 8 other brands of high-lifts to test. . . and would love to offer an array of high-lifts blonds to all you Crib Colorists to choose from so please watch for this to come to fruition.

In addition to high-lifts and lighteners, with losing the Renbow toners ( which I have never found anything even remotely close) I plan to put together a base line of opaque toners course and then demonstrate to you how to change the colors of the toners in order to reach soft pastels. It really is not that hard. Just comes with experience….which luckily YOU don’t need. . . because I have it - - - for you!

Matrix brought back its line of 4 opaque toners for blond’s I used to use and love so that is a great start.. I will also demonstrate the fairly simple technique of making an apricot-rose toner ‘from’ these toners as a base provided there is some interest for them. Soft Silver, Soft Raspberry, Ice Blue – All coming up in the future days and weeks of the NEW HIGHLIFT series.

NEW ADDITION TO THIS POST :

Please check out the store, I have completed all the lines of testing highlifts from some 20 lines of hair color.

The absolute 1st and best blonds without the use of bleach goes to the company FRAMESI, they actually blew both Schwartzkopf and the rest of them out of the water....just read the post on the page under hair color for the end of the testing results...

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/high-lift-blond-color-kits-all-brands

Killer Chemist