Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Hair Color Category change – Demi Permanent wins, hands down.

Back to hair color categories with the Number 1 , awesome choice....

#3 )  Demi Permanent Hair Color595779-001

I developed a love and deep affection for the newest category of hair color as soon as Wella's Color Touch - DEMI PERMANENT Line of HAIR COLOR came out. When I began in the hair business, Demi Permanent Hair color did not exist ( this is my 'second' career, so it wasn't that long ago...) this new category added a whole new plethora of hair coloring ideas and options were endless.

  • choices to Hair Color "first timers"
  • clients 'new' to Gray hair
  • even the "teen" Hair Color class benefitted from this new wonderful class of hair colors
  • men, perfect for men's hair color 
  • let alone all the tricks we could use it for in Hair Shows and Editorial Photo Shoots

I will give away a big secret .......  COLOR TOUCH IMG_0211_large is used on almost all Hair Color & Shampoo photo shoots. . . for any & all the boxed hair color brands . I'm sorry to say we don't use the product that is inside the box, we use the most expensive and BEST LINE of Hair Color that exists. What people want and look for ? ? ? ? Shine - SHINE - SHINE - SHINE, and awesome condition. I mean besides the obvious "Photo Shop--ping" and silicone shine serums we have used since the 1990200453807-001's if you can believe that ! We hi-jacked the silicone serums from the ethnic hair care companies...who found them to help with their FRIZZ ...which is how I found them 15 years ago!  We used to keep our photography secrets - hidden and away from the public.

Last Sunday on the front page of the Los Angeles Times were 2 photos of a model  . . . both were in Color (I always think its such marvelous technology when photos in Newspapers are in "COLOR "............. isn't that the silliest thing, especially when we have 14 megapixel digital cameras shoved in our purses? !  )

The entire page was devoted to explaining in detail how the PHOTO SHOP program works and how almost every single actor, model and even sports celebrities have PHOTO SHOP Editing rights on every Photo taken of them - prior to publishing. The reason this article was in there? Seems one of the Kardashian sisters (who live down the street from my brother)  had a photo taken of her and published 'accidently' PRE- PHOTO SHOPPING procedure. Turns out the young lady is a lot heftier than we see, think or believe her to be. Boy did that news spread, (operative word being 'spread')  - -lawsuits were threatened, yelling and screaming ensued we could hear all the way in my city 20 miles away ( not really but sounds good- - -  right?) all sorts of important things like that were flung from email to email.!! The result? The article on the front page of the Los Angeles Times, when I saw that initially I just laughed and laughed. It actually was a relief and I couldn't wait to not be restricted by that "silent" code of conduct.... Hallelujah! I could finally talk about it all openly and not have to worry I was the one blowing the whistle on the whole process. I WANT all the info out there, so young girls know the truth about these models that they look up to. I want them to see and hear how much work we go to, to make them look perfect , its something they can never achieve and it took me  a lot of years to comes to Terms with myself.....

The 2 photos of the model ( which were huge) showed the difference in very explicate detail, the photo on the left was the "Before" Shot.....the photo on the "right" was this woman "Photo Shop-ped" and 'After'. The article was a good one, I didn't even need to read it, I knew exactly what it said.... but when you have based a huge portion of your career on the deception we call advertising.... Well ---> It was as if I had been holding my breath for years, and I finally could let it out . That is what that article and those photos did to me and I'm sure every single other artist that works on advertising & photos and in that genre, from make-up people, to hair, to production, to P R, to Publicists, Agents, to the Celebs themselves. The truth finally out there.. OMG, don't you just LOVE the Internet..... here are the photos:

0000148398788 This is what young girls strive to make themselves like. . . something that just isn't even real. Please educate your daughters and yourself on this deception.... that is very carefully crafted.

Now, let me get back to Demi-permanent Hair Color.The newest classification of hair color which is called Demi Permanent is deposit only and referred to as 'semi' permanent by some manufactureWhite_palette.jpgrs, it is very similar to semi, but more long lasting.  Some of the European companies have chosen to use super low volume peroxides to differentiate the semi from the demi lines. But if you read the first post, which I hope you do/did . . . “True” Semi-Permanent hair color is not mixed with any sort of developer or catalyst and that is how I feel it needs to stay. I teach you all this, in the hopes honestly, it depends on the manufacturer, the Colorist or the school as to how it is defined. My education is Vidal Sassoon based which is known as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" so I think you'll be safe using my criteria.

First of all it helps if you unde00002washinrstand a little bit about the technical side of how hair dyes work. Semi-permanent color consists of tiny molecules that enter through the cuticle but they don’t affect the natural pigmentation of the hair. Because these molecules are so small they can be washed out after only half a dozen washes. Demi-permanent color also enters through the cuticle but it combines with other molecules in your hair to give larger molecules and these take longer to wash out, which brings us to Permanent hair dyes, these react after entering your hair because they use ammonia and peroxide and this makes the molecules much too big to be washed back out of the hair. If you keep this information about molecules in mind when deciding which hair dye to use then it will stop you from choosing the wrong product. stephanie-comb

Always make sure that you do a strand test before dying your hair, this makes sure that you have the color you want and that you don’t react to the dye, remember different dyes from different makers have different chemicals in them. If you have long hair make sure that you cover it properly with the dye otherwise you will end up with streaks you don’t want and make sure that your hair is clean and damp before applying the dye. Make sure that your bathroom or wherever else you dye your hair has plenty of fresh air - its just great for the lungs and health...don’t use hair conditioner for a day or so before putting on the hair dye but you should shampoo your hair to makes sure that it’s clean. If you stain your skin when dyeing your hair then rub on a little alcohol to remove it (vodka works well ), but if you put some petroleum jelly or Vaseline on your skin before dying it will prevent staining in the first place. You will lose some hair when dying it but to keep this to a minimum after you have dyed it rinse it with cold or lukewarm water.IMG_0209_large

I like to think of Demi Perm Colors as any color line that uses above 5 Volume and below 19 Volume Developer, which makes this the perfect category to be used on men's, the first grays and up to 30% Gray. . . I would use Demi Permanent Hair color.  and any hair that needs to be strengthened. With those numbers , the only action that will happen is Deposit of color - no lift <> no lightening......so remember that. There is no SUCH THING as a Semi-Permanent Blond. Those words make absolutely NO SENSE.

I am of the belief that depositing color in the hair strands of either gray, white, or simply middle-aged (weak) hair can add:

  • strength
  • shine
  • illusion of thickness
  • reduce frizz & tangles 

This formula generally imparts vivid color results, and are ideal for covering un-pigmented hair,refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring and low-lighting.0002hair

First of all it helps if you understand a little bit about the technical side of how hair dyes work. Semi-permanent color consists of tiny molecules that enter through the cuticle but they don’t affect the natural pigmentation of the hair. Because these molecules are so small they can be washed out after only half a dozen washes. Demi-permanent color also enters through the cuticle but it combines with other molecules in your hair to give larger molecules and these take longer to wash out, which brings us to Permanent hair dyes, these react after entering your hair because they use ammonia and peroxide and this makes the molecules much too big to be washed back out of the hair. If you keep this information about molecules in mind when deciding which hair dye to use then it will stop you from choosing the wrong product.  85274407

Always make sure that you do a strand test before dying your hair, this makes sure that you have the color you want and that you don’t react to the dye, remember different dyes from different makers have different chemicals in them. If you have long hair make sure that you cover it properly with the dye otherwise you will end up with streaks you don’t want and make sure that your hair is clean and damp before applying the dye. Make sure that your bathroom or wherever else you dye your hair has plenty of fresh air because hair dye has some powerful chemicals in it, don’t use hair conditioner for a day or so before putting on the hair dye but you should shampoo your hair to makes sure that it’s clean. If you stain your skin when dyeing your hair then rub on a little alcohol to remove it (vodka works well ), but if you put some Vaseline on your skin before dying it will prevent staining in the first place. You will lose some hair when dying it but to keep this to a minimum after you have dyed it rinse it with cold or lukewarm water.83463998

By their very nature, demi's or deposit-only hair colors darken the natural hair color when applied. They cause little or no damage to the hair and are generally positioned as gentle and mild due to their low ammonia or no ammonia content. In recent years, many top  colorists will apply demi to the 'lengths' of the hair while permanent is applied to the roots. This fights the build-up effect that can occur on previously colored hair and is also less aggressive, resulting in less damage.

Demi-Permanent Hair ColorBF0146-001
  • contains no ammonia
  • is mixed with an activator, such as peroxide
  • activator lifts cuticle slightly so color sits in and under the cuticle
  • lasts 18 to 20 shampoos
  • fades gradually and then washes out to the original color of the hair
  • used for toning, changing tone, filling in highlights, and going darker
  • good way to temporarily change hair color to try something new
  • also recommended to color hair that is already significantly damaged or over processed

Demi-permanent hair color is, in fact, permanent hair dye mixed with low volume (usually a 7,10 up to 15 Volume) developer that blows off the ammonia from the permanent tube so that only color molecules penetrate the hair shaft.

Demi-permanents are much more effective at covering gray hair than semi-permanents, but less so than permanents.

Demi-permanents has several advantages over permanent color. Because there is no lifting of natural hair color, the final color is less solid than a permanent and therefore more natural-looking (although that also means they are less effective on dark hair); they are gentler on the hair and therefore safer, especially for damaged hair; and they wash out over time (typically 20 to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is less noticeable and if a change of color is desired, it is easier to achieve.200474281-001

However, demi-permanent hair colors must be used with caution because they are, in essence, permanent color and the darker shades in particular may persist longer than indicated on the packet.

The single best line in this category is WELLA's Color Touch Line, to date I have tested most every line and am still headstrong about that brand: its results & quality.

Wella is in the midst of repackaging and updating Color Touch, any day now the newest Color Touch line will be revealed.... Give it a TRY, you can barely go wrong with it....

If you want my complimentary help with your purchase of Color Touch

 http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color. . .

purchase the tubes . . . . and answer these 3 questions . . .put your answers in the BOX at check - out :

Existing Hair Color Level_____ and Tone______?

VIRGIN Hair Color Level______ and Tone______?

"DESIRED" Hair Color Level_____ and Tone____?

74057949

 

No comments:

Post a Comment