Friday, April 30, 2010

Autopsy of a Brass-free Blond

A new discovery with amazing results

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With the loss of Renbow, I have been testing various obscure lines of color, when one of my concoctions turned out a unique beautiful cool baby blond I felt it was time to let you know. These tests take days and are not easy to do properly . The results of going blond always depend on your virgin hair color and your DURP ( dominant underlying remaining pigment), we all know that by now.

High lift blonds' are every color manufacturers strongest attempt at achieving the lightest blond without using bleach. So many of you prefer that method of going blond than any other - - always amazes me… but what is - - - IS! 71990426

I was completely surprized with this combo I came up with because I actually mixed different lines of color and a color existed that I had not realized they added.

Blond boosters or WHITE GENIE are all more of the lightening agent condensed and given to you in a tube or a powder (W Genie). So it makes perfect sense that using A BLOND Booster, White Genie or BLOND EXTRACT work in giving the highlift that extra 1/2 level to 1 1/2 levels of lift which I always feel they need.

I have nailed down some favorites, with today's post being on the newest and most successful duo – that was more of surprise than anything. In the past 3 months I have been searching through lines I’ve never owned, never seen, in my quest to become as knowledgeable about highlift blondes as possible. I am proud of the level of quality I give my clients, and I was having a hard time finding that ( on top of all the other things I must do to keep this trinity of sites a float)...

I mean, as a Colorist, I became very good at using bleach to work on my clients to give them the Blonde’s they wanted. But in this new era… people want to use highlift blonde’s with no bleach. So a quality high-lift Blonde was needed.

What I decided I wanted to offer was 4-5 high-lift blonds --- that produced appealing tones of blondes I feel that most people are looking for and then a dozen toners for blondes.

And that’s it. I was getting too complicated and too overloaded with information when it truly is a very simple issue. The problems only lie in doing the testing.IMG_1278 I test all high-lifts on both Level 7 and Level 5 which gives me what I need to know. Now remember the most important hint I could give all of you, is to always ALWAYS run a STRAND test on your own hair THIS is what will prevent you from having a hole head of the improper color, you will only have a small strand.

ow what happened that ended up being such an easy answer to such a complicated problem was staring at me in the face.

I HAD NO IDEA WELLA HAD ADDED A VIOLET-ASH TO THEIR HIGHLIFT BLOND COLLECTION.

Once I discovered that, and then tested it with all 3 of the blond boosters - I had my very simple answer to my complicated question. Which Highlift blond would we use now that Renbow had closed their doors...........

My newest high lift blond with the incredible results is :

Koleston Perfect 12/61 Violet Ash - 1oz

added to

+ Wella Color Perfect - Blond Booster BB - 1 oz.

added to

+ ……40 Volume

or Any of the Blond Boosters – Killer Strands carries, adding equal amounts to what you squeeze into bowl to begin with. Do some experiments of your own. The high lifts I am behind are all in this section . . . there are not a whole lot of differences in highlifts , just mainly the tones they are BASED on.

It puzzles me why every hair color manufacture doesn’t have more violet based color lines, as that would work o n

Here is the array of Highlift Blonds FROM WELLA’S KOLESTON PERFECT LINE OF COLORS:

I was completely unaware that WELLA had added 12/61 to their line. They just redid their line packaging / everything.......and they slipped that in without me noticing!

ANYWAY.......................enough said, its here, I just ordered a case of it. . . . and I can now rest. The highlift color question is now solved for my clients/ customers..... Your blonde without bleach is now set.

wella KP 2010 chart1501 Third from the bottom is the perfect highlift color.

Just add equal amount of one of the 3 various Blond Boosters we carry –

Blond boosters come from Wella Color Perfect and its called BB -- in Schwarzkopf its called Blond Extract E-OO and in Framesi they call it US/PLUS : Ultra Lift Series

Any combo of highlift color mixed with any of the BLOND booster makes the lightest blond possible which is bleach-free. 90309099

Killer Chemist

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