God’s Honest Truth about: Boxed Hair Color, Salon Hair Color & Sally’s Hair Color

Friday July 30, 2010

Most of the Hair Color is manufactured by the country’s largest advertiser, P & G (Proctor & Gamble). They own most of the Boxed Hair Color brands, Frederic Fekai, Sebastian Hair, Graham Webb Hair & all of Wella and many – many other brands. So they  {very quietly}  play all sides of the coin.

I think its absolutely hilarious because they produce the Boxed Hair Color which forever I have called “JOB SECURITY”  for hair stylists. Boxed Hair Color is a bonus to any Salon Owner….. why? Because as a Salon Owner you bank on the fact that you will at least book a dozen appointments a week to correct the color  that Boxed Hair Color has ruined. So that means that  one company produces the color that destroys your hair with BOXED HAIR COLOR…….and also produces the color they fix it with (Wella) How typical is that of BIG BUSINESS in AMERICA? But lets get off that band wagon because it goes no-where . . . just FYI.

What I would like to point out today is that ALL permanent haircolor….whether it be the hair color you purchase in Walmart, in Sally’s Beauty Supply( the world’s largest beauty supply), in your local beauty supply or in KillerStrands . . . is all . . .  based on the EXACT SAME CHEMICAL Process.

Most of the raw materials used in hair color are actually colorless molecules called intermediates, which are in a clear liquid form or are coupling agents which combine with the intermediates and an oxidizing agent ( hydrogen peroxide – developer) to change their appearance. These small dye molecules possess a color-forming capacity, and it might take as many as six different intermediates to make the color.

The intermediates and coupling agents penetrate in the hair shaft where they oxidize or develop into permanent, insoluble colored pigments that are trapped inside the hair.  The Level System color manufacturers have created wonderful varieties, the most astonishing accomplishments to me are with the new line we are carrying in the TCE Group/Store. This new line has mastered a tonal variety I have never seen or experienced in any other line . . . and if you have problems with Brass, Yellow, Gold, or Orange Tones that you don’t like…I would head over there as fast as you can click your mouse.

http://thischangeseverything.myshopify.com/password

What my true message here is that there is only ONE METHOD for Coloring the Hair. Some times the companies mis-lead you into thinking the hair color you might buy that is considered (with absolutely no documentation or authority) “Professional”… might be a more complicated or difficult procedure of mixing and/or application. Nothing could be further from the truth. All hair color contains the exact same 2 parts.

• 1 tube of hair color (pigment – btw it is NOT the color you are aiming for)
• 1 cup of Developer (in one of these strengths: 10V, 20V, 30V or 40V)

Apart these 2 ingredients make absolutely no change to anything. The 2 ingredients must be mixed well together in a bowl in the proper measurements, applied to the hair and given time to PROCESS or DEVELOP( Usually 45-60 minutes) I see all these ridiculous commercials touting the advantages of some new hair color that develops in 10 minutes. THAT, I WANT  TO SEE. I mean, when you go to a Salon they will always have you sit with the product on your hair for a minimum of 45 minutes, I urge 60- 75 minutes. What's the hurry?? Once you get it on, don’t you want it to develop to the proper color? Well, IF YOU DO . . . it is going to take an hour, and you just need to commit to that. Chemical Processes like this do not work properly in “minutes” . . . it takes TIME!

All the various hair colors whether it be Sally’s, Walmart, your local Beauty Supply, KillerStrands, TCE’s new line, any of the professional lines…all permanent hair color works exactly the same.

Take a Tube of Hair Color and mix with Developer

 

        in a bowl   then apply… Let process for 1 hour and WEELLLLLLLAAA, you have a gorgeous hair color.

This is where I want to make things crystal clear for everyone. The Hair Color process is one - single - solitary Process. There are 2 ingredients necessary for any hair color to work :

1.) Hair Color Pigment Cream

2.) Developer ( hydrogen peroxide)

Now when you purchase hair color in a box it also  has 2 ingredients….. the same exact 2 ingredients as in the professional hair Color. So don’t ever think  hair color anywhere is any tricky system. The difficulty comes from figuring out your exact formula for what you do or do not have on your hair presently. That is the key factor for what makes the hair color formulations different.

Killer Chemist

Soft Opening For TCE From KC ;-)

Does that sentence make sense to you? If not . . . Keep reading.

Well, I know its been forever, I know I keep promising and nothing appears . . . {its a lot to do when you don’t feel so hot} but we are attempting to give it a ‘go’.  About 8 days ago I pulled the plug on the whole idea and was conned (politely) into giving it one last shot.

100% honest here - - - I’m running out of Gas, in more than one way. So, I just don’t want to get in over my head and drown. But - - for MC ( my assistant on this project) and for you . . . TCE is here, and ready for you to play with. The whole concept is a complete experiment, never seen or hear of anything like it. One of my passions in life . . .doing things - accomplishing things - - never accomplished  - - before!

TCE is a 2nd Group and a 2nd Store. Why? That answer cannot be given until you join. Once you join,  you will  see…. why…. the secrecy. . Believe me, if  I could have  -- I would - - have….out of sheer simplicity.

TCE – This Changes Everything ….

The Group and Store that will . . . .

Change everything . .

 

Artificial Hair Color already in Your Hair?

The Single biggest Road Block in Coloring Your Hair

 

Previously tinted hair creates the biggest rock-in-the-road for most people trying to become a Crib Colorist. I do understand how hard that concept is to fully accept, because as a hair stylist I know I never announced that fact to my clients. Now looking back, I wish that I would and ‘could’ have.

 

There should be a warning on every package of hair color saying : “ Once you have applied this Hair Color to your hair, you will not be able to treat it the same….not until it grows out……as far as future hair color alterations “. That is a HUGE statement, and I understand why the hair color manufacturers don’t want to do it. But the Tobacco manufacturers didn’t want to apply that warning about: how those cigarettes you are purchasing, are killing you, either. Some warnings – just need to be announced – as a matter of good faith.  I’m telling you I did not fully understand the concept until I was about 6 months into the Salon world. . .so I fully understand the confusion clients experience.

 

Once your VIRGIN hair is altered in any way, all the rules for coloring your hair go right out the window. If you are reading and comprehending that for the first time, consider yourself lucky. But it is imperative that all of you know this. I address this idea about 3 times a year, but I am noticing by many of your emails that it needs to be monthly.

  I will point out that once you have lightened your hair is not nearly as problematic as once you have darkened it (from your VIRGIN color). 

                                               

Can you figure out why that might be?

Once the hair is lightened you have a blank white  (almost) pallet…so to re-color it, is easier (in most cases) . The problem you will find if you were to go directly from the Level 10-N (neutral) of the photo on the top to the color of the bottom photo, is the need for the process called “filling”. Filling is a bit more of an advanced technique and I will be covering that in the NEW FORUM we will be introducing shortly ( you may purchase a membership in the current store if interested ).

If you have color more similar to the bottom photo and want to go light, that requires you to remove the dark color first. We call this COLOR CORRECTION. The Statement I quote all the time is this : Tint cannot “lift” Tint – or Color doesn’t lift Color - - Or Hair Color cannot LIFT/LIGHTEN other Hair Color - -  no matter how you say it …….it all means the same thing that sooooooo many of you have a hard time understanding.

Once you put that first box of color, or Sally’s hair color, or any of those inferior hair colors on your hair . . . you are committed and your hair will never be VIRGIN again, or at least until you grow it all the way out again. I’m only relaying the message, in hopes of getting more of you to understand the most important Rules in Hair Color : Once you Color it once, all the rules for coloring it in the future CHANGE and become an entirely different ball game. Think long and hard before grabbing that box at that discount store.  . . . .Do you really want to lend YOUR hair to the inferior quality of a $8.00 box of color you picked up at Walmart? Please - - Please think about the repercussions of that.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

 

AA (actual application) of Hair Color.. KillerStrands Style

Within our brand new offering of a 2nd Group and a 2nd Store, we will be offering a unique version of hair color formulating assistance.We’ve tried before and failed, but we are trying a 4th time to get this down. I truly am praying for success this time, please be patient…please follow the rules, they are there to make this a success this time. I don’t do well with failure and I feel there is a way to help people with their hair color formula’s its just taken a few trial & error attempts to get to this point.

What the TCE.TCF (ThisChangesEverything.TheColorFormula method does NOT include is directions for the application of the hair color. Which I promise you is just as important, I make the mistake all the time presuming everyone has a hair stylist background, as when I was educating, it was for people who owned chains of Salons and/or were trained at Sassoon. . . when I do that, PLEASE, stop me PLEASE ask questions of me when I do that. I am an admitted ding-bat and a huge member of the CRS Society http://onlineslangdictionary.com/definition+of/crs+syndrome, always keep that in mind.

There are basically 2 types of applications: VIRGIN & RETOUCH.  Now to explain these is a tad confusing most likely to the non-pro. I think I’ve done a fairly decent job of defining what “virgin hair” is, you must know what virgin hair is to have a TCE:TCF = hair that has not been colored. Let me tell you right here . . . that is the Number 1 item clients lie about when sitting in a hair chair. “I never colored my hair…the sun did it”, a bazillion and 1 excuses  . . . which to a trained hair stylist are laughable … let me tell you all right here, they go back to the color room and just shake their heads that you really think we are that dumb… we know exactly what has transpired 95% of the time. There is that 5% that I will still be baffled by. Which many times turn out to be a medical oddity, Henna, Sun-in, one of the horrid unhealthy hair treatments that for some reason are still on the shelves.

A virgin application is first time color – hair coloring on hair not previously color-treated.

For permanent hair coloring, there are 2 types of virgin application:

1. Scalp-to-ends
2. Double-application

The type of the color  service determines which is appropriate

Scalp-to-ends virgin application. For formulas the same level as, or darker than your natural base, the method of virgin application is scalp-to-ends { except for reds – yep there is always some silly exception ;-)  }. If you are matching your natural base (same color) . . .or, going darker than your base…and you are not using red - - then you just apply the color scalp-to-ends.

Double application method of virgin application.  For formulas lighter than the natural base level and bright formulas ( reds & light blonds) , application is always started about 1/2” – 3/4” off of the scalp { soooooooo many of you forget or skip this step…} From the heat of the scalp and “body” – the scalp area lifts quicker…so you must stay away from it at the beginning or you end up with banding. You must give the mid-shaft and ends a head start and application is started 1/2”  away from the scalp and allowed to process briefly before fresh color is applied to the scalp area. The lighter (+brighter) the formula the more important it is to use this double application method. Most of you go lighter. . . . so PLEASE take heed to this message and how it works.

I will never stop telling people to  read each manufacturers directions for their hair color. NO MATTER WHAT. I have been doing hair forever, I still . . . to this VERY DAY……….will fully read the manufacturers directions. Its funny, I ‘accidentally’ found out with this new BLONDOR that has come out from Wella, that there was IN FACT a completely separate product within the BLONDOR MAGMA family ( which BTW is what I include in the OIL BLEACH KITS….!)  When you see it all on the shelf I just grabbed 10 jars of every size….never even noticing that they had developed this new incredible (completely new)  blonding agent ( something I had thought of when MAGMA came out ) – which is a 1-step…LIGHTEN & TONE. I didn’t see it, it blended right in with the other products.  It wasn’t till a month later when I had a minute to sit down and read the accompanying literature…to see what if anything had changed about using the new Blondor ….something I have been using over 10 years….I learned about the BLONDOR MAGMA that day…. and came up with the oil bleach kit I use on my (limited) clientele….I still have a couple platinum-heads. It includes Cream bleach + Glammor Oil + Blondor MAGMA Powder + Developer….for a terrific On-The-Scalp Bleach Kit.

 

This method is used because it is easier  to make the scalp area light or bright and harder to make the lengths and ends. If applied straight to the scalp and all the way to ends with blonds or reds  the color will not be uniform the roots will be too light. Remember go for perfection, in all that you do…even in hair color. To achieve EVEN lightening, color is first applied to the hair that will take the longest: the middle shaft and the ends.

You’ve seen home bleach jobs  - - scalp area nearly white . . . and the lengths – yummy raw GOLD! ! ! Applied scalp –to-ends brought them there. I mean that just compounds the whole problem as it grows out as well….. the Gold /slash/ white stripe….. ever will blend correctly unless you get to a high dollar color correction specialist. Applied scalp to ends  high-lift tints also lightens more on the scalp so I also ALWAYS recommend that the same procedure be used .

There are 2 theories why the hair lightens(lifts) so much quicker  . . . I know it just boils down to the heat from the body…. not any of the other complicated reasons.

Watch for the next post on RETOUCH APPLICATION . . . which will be on TCE when we open this week!

Fun and facts on both fronts. . . . I promise.

Killer Chemist

 

Remember When the UnderCut was Limited to Those w/ the Unfortunate Title:Trailer Trash?

Rhiannon : now the POSTER GIRL for it – and Never Did I Think I Would Love It As I do

I just love this new cut
Its hard to see on this photo, but what ‘Undercutting’ refers to is the sides and lower part of the back are either shaved very close to the scalp OR as we do in Vidal Sassoon- use the Scissor-Over-Comb Technique of shaping the under hair very close to the scalp. Leaving the top section very long, so it kind of flips flops across the head[……..and that is kind of a cult trend hot in Europe right now, with Rhiannon bringing it to the states.
But it makes sense I guess, I’ve always thought ‘outside the box’ - - and this cut is nothing - -  if not - - - - outside-the-box!

They say this cut works best if you have an oval face shape with petite features…..to determine your face shape  —> look in the mirror - - draw around the shape of your face on the mirror with an old sharpie. . . . check the shape on the mirror. WALLLLLA!

The fashion forward trend of Undercutting has begun and I’m hoping it catches on here
This cut is for :

• fashion forward
• makes trends not follows them
• works on thick, fine,curly , or straight hair
• needs a striking color ( of any type)

  Rhiannon has had many fantastic version of the UNDERCUT . .




For some extra PIzazz in the color department the trend for the summer is the newest trend of using PASTELS. AS you see here:


The method for making pastel Krazy Kolors will be talked about in TCE: the new underground private Forum & Store that will be opening within the next week   . Please stay tundeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee


And Last but not least is the styling of the Undercut. You are going to need
VOLUME-VOLUME-VOLUME  …. of the long layers on the top
I would recommend 2 different products we carry for volume and hold … All I love
Kevin Murphy’s  - Anti.Gravity - - - which he advertises as “oil-free……….now remember my theory on all the years of hair products and skin products selling us “oil-free crap?
The reason it was ridiculous was because they were using silicone’s and esters which are not “classified” as Oils….and why was that any big deal???? Because Silicones and Esters are what they put in breast implants.. . . . and nothing clogs pores more than a “NON-OIL” such as silicone or ester. I always wished I could let everyone feel what a silicone felt like. You would never use them again.
Well, I was a tad leery of Kevin Murphy's oil-free claim although I have a lot of faith in every product he has..somebody  taught him right. But with ANTI.GRAVITY there are NO SILICONES + NO ESTERS…..there is lavender flower water, copolymers, honey extract, squalene, grapefruit seed extract . ….and on and on the ingredeint list is dynamite…. the way it works………….even better. Great Volume! Great Ingredients!
The other product? Schwarzkopf makes a whole host of excellent styling products…..I have loved every single one and they are probably the number one brand in southern California stylists…( I always have used a mish-mash of brands……But Schwatrzkopf’s OSIS LINE  has this amazing Spray Wax called AIR POMADE….light—Air-y- but with texture hold…non-greasy texture with natural shine and piece-y separation…TO DIE FOR. Just love it. I have always loved spray wax’s it leaves the hair in just the right texture….I LOVE IT>….
I will get this loaded on the store. . .  Asap. . .
Watch For TCE its getting Closer . . .   to REALITY I cannot believe it!

Hues got The Best Color?

Help maintain your hair color between Touch-ups

Bombshell Brunettes

One of the most common complaints of my fav. color hair? Fading ends and warm tones popping through. When hair is not in its best condition these things will happen….I can never say it enough, be sure your hair is dynamite condition at all times.  You really must watch UV protection in the summer months, I really love the new UV protection spray by REDKEN I have used it both personally and for clients for many years. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/redken-color-extend-sun-sparkling-shield-leave-in-smoother.

There is a Black Malva shampoo by Aveda ( that we don’t carry)  and conditioner that are infused with organic ingredients like black malva and black tea to intensify dark tones. I say that because it has been around a long time and I’ve always heard good things about it, I happen to love AVEDA products, although the last time I looked they hadn’t picked up on the sulfate-free ‘trend’ ( which it is not if you like the hair you have and want it to remain on your head.

Last but not least is Glimmer, GLIMMER is Killerstrands version of a :tone- 0n-Tone  COLOR  conditioner  enricher. You can request it in any shade of  Light Brown to darkest brown.  I use SUDZZ Moxie Conditioner and mix a couple colors into the conditioner to come up with the tone you want your hair to be.

Wash hair with cleansing shampoo

So for brunettes we have :

• B-175W Wine Brown
• B10W  Bronzed Brown
• B13W  Medium Warm Brown
• B 11W  Medium Gold Brown
• B 121W Medium honey Brown 
• B 054N Light Neutral Brown  
• B052N Dark Neutral Brown
• B12D Medium Ash Brown
• B131D Medium Smokey Brown
• B18D Darkest BRown  
• B20D Blaclk

Cosmetology 101 : The Level System of Hair Color

Level and Tone are the words for the 2 most important characteristics of COLOR

In my attempt to teach the Level System of Hair Color Formulation to all you Crib Colorists out there, there is one distinction I feel I have forgotten…..or if not forgotten just have not made clear. My dream with this Hair Blog, differs from the others, as here I want to teach you the secrets that most won’t let out of the bag. Hopefully that helps all of you figure out your own hair color formula. Hundreds of you have learned how to correctly color your hair, which brings a warm glow to my heart…Hopefully this Post will be one more addition to your notebook on Color Theory and help clarify the unique and fun world of hair color formulation.

 

WELLA has been around since the 1950’s – so a lot of the companies have taken their lead as far as “tone categories”. No one has ever called a hair color conference together to come up with a worldwide – UNIVERSALLY ACCEPTED – HAIR COLOR FORMULATION SYSTEM. BUT THEY NEED TO.

BELIEVE ME, if I was Healthy and could ‘light the fire’ under one of these companies  - -  I would. In this diagram it shows you  how Wella came up with the numbers of their Tonal Categories………. /3 = Gold     /34 = Gold/Red   /4 = Red   …..etc…  Here are the boxes of color – so you can see and relate the two . . .  

In all hair color theory, you must be able to tell the difference between level and tone …the 2 most important characteristics. As of today and this post, I would like everyone to begin thinking of hair color (virgin or artificial) in these 2 ways LEVEL /TONE.. See on the end of the box???

LEVEL

Level refers to the lightness or depth (darkness) of a haircolor, whether its natural of artificial. Words such as LIGHT, MEDIUM,DARK, PALEST, and very light tell you about a color’s level. Level is, very simple, how light or dark  a hair color is.

Numbers are used to indicate the LEVEL of Colors….which really is very simple system. This is a UNIVERSAL or  INTERNATIONAL, LEVEL SYSTEM:

• 10  > Lightest Blond
• 9   > Very Light Blond
• 8   > Light Blond
• 7   > Medium Blond
• 6  >  Dark Blond
• 5  >  Light Brown
• 4  >  Medium Brown
• 3  > Dark Brown
• 2  > Darkest Brown
• 1  > Black

Now that is the basic system that has been used since the very beginning…as funny and weird as it sounds….that system is the same system we use today. One of the biggest things I have been waiting for all these years……….is the announcement that there is a brand new technology for coloring hair. THAT is the one and ONLY announcement that will truly…. undoubtedly. . . .CHANGE HAIR COLORING. Everything else is just the same process only with different quality ingredients. That is not a “bad” thing though, so please don’t misunderstand me here, as I can turn out the most gorgeous hair colors with WELLA’s 2 top Lines : Color Touch (demi-permanent) and Koleston Perfect (permanent) you can’t beat those 2 lines for hair color, for shine, for vividness, for long lasting color… honestly. 

The thing is, they up date and change everything…..EVERY SINGLE THING……… You buy a phone the next week its out-of-date…..you buy a HUGE FLAT PANEL Screen TV, 2 weeks later – its features are old fashioned- if you don’t have a 3-D-TV you’re history, I’ve heard different facts from fellow (Top L.A.)Colorists. I know all the hair color manufacturers are frantically working on a new system of hair color. With NANO-TECHNOLOGY ( using teeny – tiny molecules to perform chemical procedures) on the forefront. . . I actually EXPECT Cosmetic chemists to be announcing a brand new technology for hair coloring at any moment….maybe I’m wrong. 

 

Hair-color is a Multi BILLION Dollar business, with stakes like that, I would expect every single technique in hair color to be worked on as we speak. A completely different manner for re-coloring hair, but my reservations are…….I adore the results I get now…So am basically terrified of any “new” procedure for coloring hair. The Hair Color manufacturers, mistake what consumers want in Hair color. They think we want a hair color that just sticks in the hair like cement, forever. I have spent 17 years taking Boxed hair color OUT of poor unsuspecting Clients hair. What I have discovered from that experience? Boxed hair color is the number 1 hair color sold ( which blew me away) . When I was removing the BOXED hair color from new clients ( my regulars- knew the 10,000HEADS Regimen) – to get it out was next to impossible and as the years went by, the color got harder and harder to get out.

My conclusion? These companies felt if the color STUCK on the hair better, people would like it more. That is a huge mistake (maybe they will read this!) You do not want the hair color to stick onto your hair without it fading. We need it to fade a little as the colors of today – DO.  That way they are translucent – which makes them look much more real. When the Boxed hair COLOR clients would come to me, the most common problem they ALL had? They were dull – solid – heavy, which indicated to me that the hair color was too heavy, too thick, too solid. THAT is the problem with little Cosmetic Chemists sitting in their labs coming up with Hair color formulations. They have never touched a head of hair, so it baffles me – that they are the ones formulating hair color.  

When talking in color terms to people,   from now on….use the LEVEL and the TONE……..you will blow people way at your grasp of Color Theory and all its Terms and Concepts/.

Killer Chemist

10,000 HEADS : 14-Step Regimen for Strong, Shiny Hair

The Single Most Important Step – NUTRITION

The food you eat and what goes in your body is simply the most important factor in changing the health and thickness of your hair. It is important to understand 10,000 HEADS works its wonders synergistically, practicing all the steps in unison, will give you optimum results, I have had some absolutely amazing stories come back to me. I am finding that people in other areas than LA, don’t think the importance of Nutrition is high enough. I cannot stress it enough; Nutrition; step1 will always be the most important step and is the backbone of the program.

This is also the single most difficult step to get women to follow through on. When changing food intake, it can take weeks or months for results to be apparent, many give up too early, feeling as though the change didn’t help. Hang in there, the change will come I have seen it over and over. As a scientist, as a Cosmetologist and as a Cosmetic Chemist, I survey thousands of heads of hair, paying attention to patterns and forming hypothesis on ‘why’ a particular person has a good head of hair and how it got to be that way, I came up with 3 common denominators of every person with enviable hair:

• excellent nutrition/eating habits
• no smoking, no drinking/drugs
• no weight issues - fairly stress-free
• no overuse or improper use of hair coloring technique

The misconception of the NUTRITION step is that you must be on a very specific ‘diet’ of certain items. Nothing could be further from the truth. This step does not restrict you from any foods; on the contrary, I ask that you follow a well balanced sensible diet that will contribute to the growth and health of your hair. 

So I encourage you to add foods that most likely you are not eating…Lots of Protein, Lots of Vegetables - -Lots of Water. Of course I do not encourage eating a lot of sugary, gooey, junk either. Be sensible. Try remembering this, “what goes in your mouth, shows up on your head” a terrific rule of thumb.

 

Forensics can use a one strand hair analysis to disclose just about everything on a person and it is extremely accurate - your hair is a reflection of your health – period. Don’t you think if 1 hair strand can tell you that much about a persons health, that it packs a punch much bigger than “looking pretty’??!

 

All foods you eat are eventually converted to simple compounds the body is able to utilize, glucose being the one that supplies the energy for all cellular reproduction – including the cells in the hair follicles (remember, follicle cell reproduction is one of the quickest in the body). So keeping the body nourished is imperative for healthy hair and for hair regrowth, starving yourself will shut down cell reproduction which in turn shuts down hair RE-GROWING.

The number 1 mistake that just about every person with hair problems makes is . . .lack of protein. Hair is made up protein and thrives on protein, listening to women over the years recite their diet choices, leaves me stunned with the same conclusion, their diets are what started their problems. Vegetarians have a very hard time having luxurious hair, they must put protein back in their daily diet, making sure to have it at breakfast, which is the most important meal of the day for your hair; do not skip it. Lunch is next in importance, again making sure that you include as much protein as you possibly can, strive for 50 grams of protein a day minimum.

I have found a terrific protein supplement online, it is the Lindora Clinic’s Protein bar, the taste earns the “delicious’ award, if you can believe that – and you can get a whopping 15 grams of protein out of some of the flavors http://shop.lindora.com/Protein-Bars-and-Snacks_stcVVcatId476054VVviewcat.htm  from Lindora medical clinic . The energy to your hair follicles gets depleted when you have gone for more than 4 hours without eating or snacking. Why would that matter? its difficult to explain without an entire encyclopedia of information behind it..but basically it boils down to……..the cells that reproduce in order to form a new hair strand occurs over and over all day long. If that energy is “broken” and not kept up????? Is what will cause hair thinning and hair loss. Remember the hair strand is terminal, it has an approx. 5 year life cycle on your head. When it finally does die off, you want that continuous Cycle to keep going without ANY INTERRUPTION. Eating small protein packed snacks will help there to be No interruption.

 

Other ideal snacks for your hair health are fresh fruit, raw vegetables, nuts, there is nothing better (or more convenient) than a handful of almonds or a protein bar for the shine in your hair.

Colourful fruits and vegetables added to the daily diet are a necessity as well. The best way to summarize it is to say; reach for the most colourful vege’s, picking some in each color category. No one eats sufficiently in this category and the only reason I can pinpoint is; they take too long to prepare. Which is a weak answer, in my book. But, it is what it is. The solution? Hit the Farmers market every week, it takes an hour-go immediately home: wash and prepare all the veges for the week. Carrot sticks, Celery &  p-nut butter, sliced cucumbers, lettuce for salads. Most everyone now-a-days is in a rush...this facilitates grabbing something good for your hair when there is no time.

 

If you smoke - QUIT- if for no other reason than you are killing your hair. . . that sounds harsh, but in essence – you are. Smoking robs your body of oxygen which in turn robs your hair of oxygen filled blood. . .whose job it is to nourish the hair follicle.

 

See the blood vessels and how they go to the base of the one hair follicle, that is the bulb inside, where the cell regeneration happens and the new hair grows. You don’t need to be a chemist to see that blood feeds the follicle; therefore what is IN the blood effects the hair. Likewise, for alcohol and drugs, if you drink too much – cut back or quit if it is a problem in your life – social drinking is fine. If you smoke too much dope, just remember why they call it dope, Pot is bad for hair, skin and nails, the sooner you quit the higher the likelihood you will have of its good qualities returning. When you get older ( 50’s-60’s) you start to notice the people that did not do any of these things when they were younger, the difference in their hair, skin and nails is nothing short of amazing. Be smart, quit now, while you’re ahead!

If you crash diet or have any of the disruptive habits of an eating disorder, your hair unfortunately, will be the first casualty. I spent 4 years volunteering at an Anorexia/ Bulimia live-in center, when the girls had a good week, they were allowed to get their hair coloured. The hair on some of those girls was irreparable; they had robbed their bodies of nutrients for so long that many of them could not recover the health of their hair, once cured . . .it was terribly sad to watch as many were very young. The cure came too late and no one had told them anorexia/bulimia was hell on hair. I feel that one fact alone would help prevent some of this disease, girls love their hair and hate to lose it.

Starving yourself, eliminating protein and neglecting certain food groups is not the way to a healthy head of hair. . . Plug protein into your diet, starting immediately if your hair is thinning or alopecia is your diagnosis. The change will not be apparent for a while but I assure you… it will come.

Food and a balanced diet is imperative for your hair to grow and re-grow, you must understand fully how the cycles work in order for you to see how absolutely necessary it is to eat correctly.

I believe NUTRITION is the Number 1 Step, and while no one wants to work on their nutrition, it is the most important of the 14 steps in gaining that strong – shiny – lustrous hair. Start with Baby Steps. . . just begin with carrots and protein bars……become accustomed to those. Begin with 2 glasses of water per day . . . working your way up as YOU and YOUR BODY can take it.

Happy Birthday America

Happy Birthday to US . . . be sure to HUG AN AMERICAN

Killer Chemist

Brush Versus Bottle, guess the Topic?

Wait for It………………

…Hair Color Application Methods

At the beginning of writing this blog, there were quite a few topics I was both oblivious and nieve about. This was one. Since youth I had always had my hair colored professionally – then switched to Vidal Sassoon Academy and that was my pretty limited exposure to how the HAIR World did things. 

• I never knew there was anything but foils to put hair color in…. the ole plastic cap and hook technique was a complete surprise to me
• Then finding out people applied hair color with a bottle had me puzzled as the next unknown

With a little research I found out:  The ‘bottle’ method of hair color application has been used as the longest form of color application. Seeing it the first time puzzled me, as it didn’t seem the easiest. I like “order”, steps and things done in a certain pattern with the "BOTTLE APPLICATION”, it was just kind of a free-for-all manner of application, which in hair color is not always the best. Cutting hair should be done in a strict pattern, coloring hair should be done in a pattern and applying color should as well. When applying the hair color, it may seem like as long as the color is in the vicinity it will saturate the hair strand, and that just isn’t the truth. 

 

When learning the Sassoon method of cutting or coloring hair they have broken the process down into geometry. At first those words ‘scared’ me, and it wasn’t until I had a little experience under my belt when I realized that way was actually the “easy way”.

Geometry works simply because you are working with a “ROUND” head and STRAIGHT hair strands growing out from it. Logically it makes sense.

 

Back in the day, hair color was mainly in bottles….so it was more ‘liquid-y’ than it is now. Almost every single hair color company (except Clairol) has switched to hair color in a TUBE in today’s world. When it was more liquid-y they could use a bottle for an applicator I suppose. But still, it is not the  #1 method for clean / clear / precise application.

With Hair Color in a tube, the color of today has more “pigment” in it, which of course results in better coverage, the problem is getting it applied smoothly and evenly. Which we have mastered via the Tint Bowl and Tint brush method.

When using a Tint Bowl 

you mix the hair color

with the Developer

 

 

 

with the TINT Brush

to a nice and creamy consistency. . . . . and apply using one end of the tint brush to part the hair into quadrants and then into sections . . . in order to press the hair color ONTO THE HAIR to be colored. The pressure from that brush makes those color molecules go through that cuticle and into that hair strand.

We are not talking “paint” here . . .

we are talking the chemical reaction of an OXIDIZED hair color

in order to have the best outcome, the most even glorious color, it needs to be applied with a tint brush.

Give up the old – dated - ‘makes-no-sense’ method. . . and splurge with the tint bowl and tint brush method

We have a great kit, check it out

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/10-piece-hair-color-kit