Monday, May 14, 2007

Yellow Blonde vs White Blonde(Platinum) - - Colour Wheel Solves Yellow-y Blonde Hair










Notice the 2
completely
different shades
(tones) of bleached
blonde hair of
these 2 men :
Brad Pitt & a



model that looks like him






YELLOW -YELLOW -YELLOW

Probably seems strange how a colour wheel can relate to hair colour
most brilliant ideas go back to "the basics",here is nothing more basic than the Colour Wheel
  • it would be the tones of hair colours that are objectionable to many
  • in blondes: the yellow tone of a blond is very unappealing
  • redheads: a lot of red has washed out and ORANGE / GOLD will be the objectionable shades in a tinted redhead
  • objectionable Brunettes would be too "GREEN" brunette (ash)

All of it,of course, is personal preference and how style and trends have changed.
There was a time when I really did not like ASH toned colors at all. Now I choose them often, it took 13 years for me to learn to like them but the trends had changed & I had to change. A client and a stylist can have completely different ideas so I do not like to make any definitive guidelines. What I want to do is show you how to counter whatever objectionable tone you may have in your hair colour, the rule applies to all colours & tones. The most common across the board- distaste for a hair colour would be a too-yellow blond - (you almost need sunglasses for) .
As you see above in Mr. Pitt.

Now with someone of that caliber you wonder why in the world would he have this horrid shade of yellow in his bleached blonde hair??
He's an actual - true (Virgin) Dark Blonde - Level 7- NA - Neutral/Ash.
He has all the money in the world to have the best Colorist on the planet, why would he go out in public with hair like that?
I can tell you why...
These shots are from 2005 - end of the year.
Guys do NOT understand hair color, I promise you. . . .very very few, get it. The Gays are pretty good with it, its a unique concept, as I am sure you are noticing.
( The fourth step of the 10,000HEADS Program is Hair Colour and the proper use of it. Instead of just reading you the riot act about finding a great colourist (not always possible for many reasons), I decided to start explaining some of the intricacies of hair colour you might have to take into your own hands. )
Look at Pitt he couldn't even get it right.
Although if you remember for the first few years of his career he did know how to dress, he finally hired a stylist...he's looked great ever since.
The reason?.......end of 2005 is when Pitt and Aniston broke up.....she uses some of the best hair people on the planet....he lost that when he left her.
Jolie knows nothing about hair colour, although he was in between the 2 at the time trying to make sense out of his life ( bet he regrets it all now!).
I heard Jennifer said, "Tell Brad: Billy Idol called and wants his hair back..."
Billy Idol would be horrified his hair was never yellow. EVER.

The method of fixing a too yellow blond is the best way to show you how the color wheel relates to hair colour.
In order to cancel the yellow tone in the blond one must head to the colour wheel (until you memorize it)
The opposite of yellow?
Purple/Violet or even a Blue-Violet BASED toner ...is the answer..
Here is an example and I know why it happened as well..
The purple being the opposite colour knocks out the yellow tones and returns the overall appearance to a neutral.
All Toners for Blondes have an underlying base to them, toners are a transparent colour... many times you cannot get the absolute perfect shade or tone that you desire with a one step (single process) colouring technique.
Which is why I differentiate between hair colour and "SHOW" Hair Colour.
When doing hair for Hair Shows the entire goal is to achieve the absolute most brilliant Tones / Shades & / Hues that are possible. Its a shame that not all hair is done that way.
It was one of my faults in my hair business, I would always do hair at that level which slows down the day. Time is of the essence in getting clients in and out of the Salon.


Applying a blue-violet or purple based Toner to the yellow blonde will kill the yellow and make the blond a very pleasant Platinum ( think Marilyn Monroe white-blonde) or like the gentleman model on the right at top of the page.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE THE PROPER TONER MAKES?. PItt has no toner on his bleached mess, the bleached model has a violet based Platinum Toner from Wella which was left on the hair for 25 minutes after the bleaching process.
Mixing toners produce wonderful results - having multiple dozens of brands and tones, there is nothing more fun than playing with hair colour toners on blondes, silly, huh?
I love it!
The same process works for every hair colour, they have toners in all shades and tones. The too-green (ASH) Browns...using a red brown (AUBURN) toner will warm that brown right up...and so on.
A toner has three possible names
  1. Toner

  2. Semi-Permanent color

  3. Demi-Permanent color

They are very low volume peroxide colours ...so there is no lift (cannot go lighter). The colours end up being very transparent / washing out easily, it is especially important to use a sulfate-free shampoo.

Color Wheels for Reference




go across(opposite) for whatever colour you want to get rid of to neutralize







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