Hey, Gray and the saga continues
There are many qualifications about gray in the hair and how much gray does the person actually have? Less than 30%, more than 30% but less than 60%, or 60% to 100%? This can make a big difference in your color selection as well as in the formula you will use.
If it looks more natural than gray, there is less than 30%; if it appears even (salt and pepper), it is 30% to 60 %; if it looks more gray than natural, it is more than 60%.
If you have more than 60% gray, do not tint your hair to the color it used to be.... why? You are very used to looking at "lighter" hair <> Granted it was 'white/gray' hair but the overall look to you is lighter than what you used to be, so 9 times out of 10 the shock will not be good. Its much more appealing and effective to start off two to 3 levels lighter than the natural (original) color. The look will be more attractive and personally I feel too dark of hair on a mature person can be harsh, unattractive and basically unnatural. If you are dealing with gray you will have deal with roots anyway, so to deal with them and the lighter color of your hair can all be taken care of at the same time. Its no extra effort, it truly isn't. The lighter color will actually be so much more flattering to your skin, and complexion. Just because she has been promoting her book lately, I have seen Barbara Walters everywhere this week, now she has beautiful hair color for an elderly lady, she has a talented colorist with a great eye. I'm sure no one here is anywhere close to her age, but you get the idea, hopefully.
Gray, or white hair occurs when the hair bulb stops producing melanin. Gray hair is basically un-pigmented: it contains little underlying pigment, or none at all. Its white hair that appears gray by the reflection of darker hairs.
The concept of dominant underlying color helps to explain the way gray hair accepts artificial coloring. Cool colors do not cover gray as well as warm colors, because they do not contain what gray hair lacks, warmth. Warm hair coloring replaces the warm undertones, in effect filling (prepigmenting) the hair.
Manufacturers come up with formulation recommendations based on just average, normal hair in mind - - and its plain nuts. Who has average normal hair? No one in my 10,000 heads has ever had it, so somewhere they are hiding and I realize there has to be a base to go off of, but the case needs to be made super clear to you the public, which is why I am here. To try to help teach you all that buying one box will not color your hair properly, there are simply too many variables in hair texture, porosity, etc.. for one little box to have gorgeous color for you. Once you learn about your hairs particulars plus figure out your formula, then the magic can begin . . . at your hands
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RESISTANT HAIR Resistant and tenacious mean the exact same thing. A tenacious or resistant head of hair has a compact, unlifted cuticle which will RESIST absorption. Remember the cuticle, is like scales on a fish -- now think about those scales... laying down flat and not flexing. That is what a resistant hair is like and with that structure it will not accept hair color very easy, it resists the new color. The surface of the hair is slick, smooth and shiny. Resistant hair is sometimes said to have poor porosity, which is a very common trait of gray hair. It makes for a very difficult go of it, to color, although I have always found ways around the bugger problem.
One of the best tricks on the planet is to simply 'begin' using the best color for cuticle penetration, which is Renbow and that is one of many reason's I use it. Renbow is made by a famous Italian Colorist and is huge in Europe. The Line is so famous for its color penetration and quality that Paul Mitchell's entire new line of professional hair color is made by RENBOW, they call it PRIVATE LABEL. That is the only one I know for sure, I don't want to guess at it, but am fairly certain they make a couple others...they use a BEESWAX base, so its pretty easy to pick out, for those of you that have purchased it, once you get past the "mixing' (its a bit harder to mix) part, the colors are stupendous. You can do things with it like apply from the root to the ends without build-up! The absolute best mix for the most resistant gray hair on the planet is to mix Renbow's permanent Colorissimo Plus Renbow's RenColor!
'Tube' (in a tube) colors are the best for penetration and color and 'bottle' colors are the best for color and shine, add the 2 together and B I N G O, you have the Crème de la Crème . This is one of my deep secrets I've been holding back, remember I was going to write a book, so for those of you with a fanatic hair addiction - an ultimate trick - especially with resistant and gray hair.
Resistant/gray hair takes longer than average to soften and penetrate, therefore I leave it on not only to the maximum time but often 10-15 minutes longer. (The color doesn't go "past" the color you picked). Use very low developer volumes but sometimes even that isn't enough, Resistant gray hair some times requires pre-softening or pre-pigmentation.
Pre- softening the hair : to pre-soften those tough wiry gray hairs, apply a 20% peroxide to pop open the hair cuticle and soften the hair so that it will easily accept any color that is applied. Apply the peroxide, comb it through the hair, leave it on for 5-10 minutes, depending on your hair, and then rinse off. Then apply the desired color.
Personally I have never had to do this procedure, I have found with Renbow I never needed to, this was written for those that for one reason or another need it.
If you are interested in Renbow's products, > send email to Killerstrands@gmail.com -- the color charts are posted in the FILES section of our GOOGLE GROUP: http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands
and for new members your first couple Posts are moderated, hang in there everything is fine.
A couple more Posts on Gray hair and the journey will be complete {for now} ;-) Killer Chemist
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