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High-lift Blonds vs Bleach: A Battle As Never-ending as Iraq

The Technical Aspects May Help You Decide

Here's the problem: Clients come in for professional hair color and ask for a certain blond ( light - baby wheat blond - like Gwen, Reece, Kate, Pamela, Gywneth, or Madonna - just NOT a yellow/brassy blond) then comes this request: but could you please NOT use bleach. They have a million reasons why they don't want me to use it, ranging from:

• it smells terrible
• my cousins hair looks terrible & she used it
• it burns hair off
• how could anything with the word "bleach" be good on hair
• my sister used it and all her hair fell off - -
• and every single thing in between

This went on for years ( btw : and still does !) therefore >> the hair color manufacturers heard this and went to work on something to answer this problem.

Why?

What is the first rule in creating a successful product or service?

** Find a "need" and FILL it **

OR

** Find a "problem" and SOLVE it **

Thus came this new big roll out of a new product to fill that need.

HIGH-LIFT Blond Hair Color

Some claiming they used double 40 Volume as a big grand answer to more incredible lift (which truly has nothing to do with the "lift"). This was probably about 16-17 years ago, just before I got into the biz, because it was brand new when I started - although its very hard to find info on the technical beginnings of this branch of hair color. As a beginning Colorist I didn't get the picture back then, not like I get it all now. As a well-rounded Colorist, now I feel I can sum up what it is and how effective it is or isn't. After 10,000 heads you get a feel for it.

The reason I feel you should understand this? Because they have High-Lift Blond "CLAIMS" everywhere now, and I want you to watch out for them. Most are bogus and they are the reason for many of the color corrections I have had to do over the years.

Color Correction became my specialty . . . I never pursued it, but there wasn't a soul in all of Malibu who did them, so I began taking them in slowly at the beginning. Its a specialty no one really wants, you are never paid enough for the time that goes into them, there is no book, no guideline, its a very tricky process because every single person has a different problem and story. There are never 2 of the same, think about that. Can you say NIGHTMARE ? This is why I know what I speak of when I tell you the stories I do. For 9 years every tricky color correction was funneled to me from all the stylists in town...its usually like that in every city across America, there is one Color Correction specialist. So if you need one - just ask a few hairstylists , they will know who it is. In Malibu they came to me so they wouldn't have to drive the 30 miles into the city and probably pay 30 times the price! With that said, here is my take on the High Lift Blond Battle.

"High Lift Blond" is basically, the marketing of the words themselves is really all they came up with. Making it sound like there is finally an answer to the problem of using bleach on the hair - it was an excellent marketing strategy, I wish I knew which company thought it up. The words "High Lift" must mean it lifts the hair Lighter than anything ever made. Thank the Lord. Its marketing boys and girls, pure marketing. What they did technically was ADD more ammonia to the existing blonds they had. The LEVEL 10 Blonds they had, including Level 10 Ash Blond - Level 10 Neutral Blond- Level 10 Gold Blond - all the standard highest lifting blonds they made ...they just added more ammonia. Ammonia is used in hair coloring to raise the pH - raising the pH allows the solution to penetrate the hair. Ammonia is an alkali; it swells the hair shaft, promoting penetration. It is also a catalyst and its primary purpose is to facilitate lightening by releasing oxygen, supplied by the developer.

The higher the Level of Color you are using the more ammonia (lift) and the less pigment (deposit). The lower the level, the less lift and the greater deposit. That's why a medium blond will cover gray better than a very light blond.

Too much ammonia is unnecessarily damaging but without ammonia, penetration, lightening and dye development simply does NOT happen. Ammonia or something like it is necessary for hair color to work. Manufacturers strive to put in just enough -- and not too much -- ammonia in their permanent hair coloring products - lighteners as well - its a very tricky procedure. Think about that when some of you go looking for organic hair color without ammonia. Yes, it won't smell yucky, but how in the world will it work correctly ? That is the biggest problem I find when the whole "natural - organic" hair color topic comes up - so think about that.

High lift blonds contain the most ammonia, to have the fastest and highest lift cycle. That much ammonia in darker colors would be overkill. Really great Colorists are aware of all these little tricks and tips I have given you here . . . I want you to at least read them once. . . hopefully you will come back and re-read them, its not an easy concept to grasp, I know I've watched many a blank stare on my assistants faces and these are young eager to learn - right out of Cosmo-School kids!

So that is how and why and WHAT high lift blonds are. But the real answer to: how many levels does a high lift blond lift? : I truly believe maybe, just maybe they have increased the lift by 1/2 to one LEVEL more than the 2-3 levels a Level 10 can and that is all. Every single company claims theirs can lift, 5-6-7 Levels - that simply is NOT TRUE. I've run multiple tests on over 15 companies high-lift blondes so I would have my own tests in front of my face and my own eyeballs - so I knew for sure - what they could and could NOT do. I like to think a High-Lift Blond will lift 3 maybe 4 levels depending on the porosity of the hair -

P E R I O D .

That is your key and your guide to High-lifts, never think they will lift more than that........and that is PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR ONLY. Anything else? Under 3 levels PERIOD -- probably 2.

The best and highest lifting and most gorgeous toned high lifting blond ?? RENBOW'S 100 ASH.. and I promise you I wish it wasn't - I have to order it from Arizona, pay for shipping - its a nightmare for me to get and soon Paul Mitchell will completely re-vamp the company - so I promise you I wish it was someone else's. I'm sure I will have to switch, but I am sure fighting it to the end...because of the color it produces.

Don't worry - - - - - the next post continues the Trixie transformation: I needed to fill-in with "facts" in my attempt to straighten out the Battle of the High-Lift Blonds vs. Bleach.

Hope This helps.

Killer Chemist

Battle of The Blondes : Hi-Lift Blonde versus Bleach > Who Wins? Watch Live (photo) DEMO

Re-Touch, Re-Touch . . the story continues

In our little project I decided to tackle 2 birds, as I get this additional question and problem all the time. It is the single biggest battle and conflict between clients and Hair stylists there is, and that is the battle between hi-lift blond versus bleach as the best and LEAST damaging lightener. I've spoken about it many times, people get all wrapped up in the "NAME". .for some strange reason the word "BLEACH" just plain and simply freaks people out when a hair stylist mentions it.

ALL people are afraid of the word BLEACH. I still haven't nailed the reason - 'why' - but its a universal problem. Some of it has to do with the fact that they have had bleach used on their hair and it was used incorrectly and destroyed their hair. All hair color if used INCORRECTLY can destroy your hair. But, there are just so many precautions set in place now with professional hair color. Do you realize that is the manufacturers main goal ??? to produce a shiny -- rich -- vibrant -- head of hair color - - I know this because a former best friend of mine was the regional VP for a large European Hair Color manufacturer. Remember your hair color is their calling card, that is why they strive to have the best color possible, its not something that one can hide, hair color is right there....IN YOUR FACE! But I can tell you that I have seen 50 times more destroyed hair from people using Boxed Hair Color Kits than from clients whom have used the bleach - wrong. So why isn't there a big terror factor with the words Boxed Hair Color Kit ? ? There should be, there really should be. ..

Today we will go into applying the high lift blonde on one quadrant in the proper manner . . . and then applying Levitation Oil Bleach ( my favorite bleach - so gentle and moisturizing) to the right back quadrant.

This way we can see twice how to apply a re-touch. . . showing you no matter what color or product you are using a re-touch is a re-touch and its all applied the same way. Here is your supplies and some gloves!

This is my absolute favorite Hi- Lift-Blonde 100 ASH from Colorissimo - mixed with #27 Moonlight a gorgeous Lavender ASH and 40 Volume. So that is the color I go to when I want the very lightest, very whitest, very gorgeous Blond. Its just wonderful.

Now on this Mannequin I was told her hair is completely natural with no treatments on it to prevent my color from working exactly as it would on a human head. But you just never know. I'm going to bet that she will end up with Level 7-8 roots. . . . 8 at the very lightest . . .but Trixie is a mannequin with tricky hair - s we will just have to see.

The 2 back sections we will be working with today. Left will be the high-lift Blond and the right will be the Oil Bleach- Levitation. Treat each section as its own little quadrant. Don't even think about the rest of the head when you are working on the one section. It will help with your speed. Being able to apply the color quickly is a tremendous advantage, and the only trick to learning that ? ? ?

Is - PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE !

Always start with outlining the section - FIRST with the color or bleach.

have color on the brush so you can flip it around and apply color after you have parted off section.

Its a little tricky at first - - but again - practice - practice -- practice which is why

Working from the bottom of the quadrant to the top:

in 1/2 inch partings

again, I really encourage all of you to purchase a doll head and use her to practice on - this is your new hobby - - take it seriously and purchase the products you need to begin a new hobby . .There are about 20 different mannequins - so any thing you want is available.

Apply the product to the top and bottom section - roots - at the same time, to enable you to move quickly - which will help you get the job done quickly.

Now for interest in this project I have decided to apply bleach to the other side back quadrant . . . my absolute favorite 'on-the-scalp' bleach is Redken's Levitation Oil Bleach. It has been around for 20 Years and is the favorite of all the European Master Colorists as well, I will not do a bleach and tone without it. It leaves the hair in the best condition while also lightening the quickest and leaving the most striking tones. Its available as are all our favorite products in our little underground store called: KILLER COLOR CLINIC, you join our group first for access to the store. We like to remain small - quiet - and personal, there are 3 of us (Nikki & Detour ) to help when you make a purchase with guidance and help on the products you choose.

We are trying to promote HAIR COLOR as a new American Hobby and want to get it off the ground on the right foot.

So lets start the Bleaching side . . . 1st Step? Again OUTLINE the quadrant with the Bleach.

So this section is done the exact

same way as the high lift blonde. I

encourage all of you to practice

the DIP- PART - FLIP & APPLY

TECHNIQUE- once you get it

down, your application will go so

quickly and smoothly you will think

you were a PRO!. Seriously, its not

that hard and once again all it takes

its a little PRACTICE PRACTICE

PRACTICE

There you have it, the 2nd quadrant completed. I hope you got the feeling of working on each quadrant as its own little project...zipping through the slices with DPFA

DIP--PART--FLIP--APPLY

the faster you get the better your retouch is going to look, so each time you will get a little better and faster.

Time for them to 'cook', is what I like to call it.

I'm always calling the two hobbies the same - - - cooking and hair . I feel hair should be as natural and as organic and as fun as cooking I suppose, that may sound strange but I feel it can be . Can you imagine if you would have been offered a class in "Hair Care" or "HEALTHY HAIR" and then the advanced class was "HAIR COLOR 101 " in High School, what a great and productive Elective that would have been! Can you imagine the amount of people that would want to take the class ?

OK back to the subject ! ! ! ! ! Trixie's results will be in 2 days, so check back in . . .

Any questions? Please leave them in the Comments section . . . Have a great weekend everyone - I love you all . . . .

Killer chemist

Root of The Problem <> Words of Killer Strands, Artfully

I found the greatest little site that allowed me to develop this little piece of artwork - completely free -

I guess the most simple things can keep me entertained for the longest time!

Mr jonathan Feinberg over at http://wordle.net/ has developed this little program to make what he has called WORD CLOUDS . . .

LOVE IT
Killer Chemist

Re-touch : Re-Touch . . . how many need a Re-touch ?

Lots Of Killer stranders do, I know that much

  Been a while since I've tackled a DEMO, thought it was about time, again. Lately I've had a number of my trusty followers purchase the products and get ready for their very first at home re-touch, turning them into a CRIB COLORIST by my rules of engagement!  Congratulations I say to you all and my gift and vote of confidence is this DEMO shot and written mainly for you. 

Some of this is a repeat, but what I have decided this time is to break it down much more slowly, transparently and clearly. I know I have a tendency to skip over parts that I think everyone probably already knows - mistakenly . Which is stupid on my part, because why would "ANY" of this be something you already know - - many of you are coming off of years of going to a Hair Salon in which you sat back, grabbed a magazine and started up with the latest trials & tribulations of your life to your trusted Stylist. Its funny, that's one of the things I miss the most . . . I never got many of the stories I knew about my hundreds of clients finished or completed or at least headed in the right direction. I'm sure they are all just fine!

Today we have Trixie . . . how about this sweetheart, who knew they made mannequins WITH roots! I laughed my ass off when I saw her, yet she actually filled the need most perfectly.  I know of at least a dozen of you that will be tackling this exact project in the coming weeks so I hope this helps.

She has a lot longer root than I would have liked, doing roots this length are easy, as you have so much root to work with. The tricky part is when you have a measly 1/2" or 3/4", you need to be so careful of the overlapping part. (overlapping meaning overlapping the bleach/ blond tint onto the already blond part of the hair - which can cause breakage). Don't worry about this now, I will go into detail about all of these topics this time.

Here are 6 photos of Trixie from every angle, if you can believe I gave her a 4 minute haircut because I just could not stand the way she showed up at my door, that should get a laugh out of you. Once the color is complete, we will see what we can do with the hair cut for a permanent look, how about a POLL ? ? ? At the comments section below why don't we have a little vote for what hair cut you think she should have?

 

How about my make-up job? Swift huh? Like I said, you should have seen, "what showed up" !! Lots of color is better than Peter Pan and Twinkleberry puff colors, trust me!

Now that you have met and seen the project . . . what would be you very first step . . . all the time imagining this is your OWN hair and you are applying this technique to yourself, that's how these DEMO's work.

 

Sectioning, Parting and Preparation

Get the supplies out that you will need to do the SECTIONING and PARTING of your hair. What I really want to impress upon you is how important the sectioning and parting is. Maybe If I relay a story about how they crammed it into our heads at Vidal Sassoon Academy a way back when the teachers were grand, the art was still alive, and at unbelievable levels it will make you see more clearly what I mean.  Every week for the first 12 weeks of the Academy - - we had what was called "State Board Training" . . . we all hated it. It was a process of memorizing rules and regulations that we would NEVER put to use in our actual career and we all knew it, but you had to pass the test or the rest of what we learned would go right out the window. To keep us from going out of our minds . . they would break up the day with sectioning and parting - -  for 12 weeks mind you!  A couple hours of each day our break from reading boring - pointless - out-of-date Rules, was to grab our mannequin heads or work on each other and practice our parting and sectioning. Seems so silly to me now, although in trying to teach the process to you, I now see the importance of it all.

The complaint I get from many of you is the issue of keeping the hair straight and not getting it all mixed up within itself. Clips over tint brush thru combs on top of the bowl of color . . .well you get the picture.

The Answer . . .as it is to many questions of confusion  . . . is ORGANIZATION.  Plain and simple organization and steps. So for Step 1 to the madness called Hair color we shall call it section, parting and Preparation. Today we are getting prepared and Sectioning the Quads. and that's it! Slowly but surely we will get through this so that you will all have the Sassoon Mind set. Repetition is at the base of any great hair colorist - doing things over and over  will have you tuned into what to do automatically. It worked for me and if it works for the best and most famous school in The country, then it will work for you. DO NOT CUT CORNERS - if you do that, it will be your first downfall. 

This is what you need to get out to prepare to do the initial sectioning and parting and prep. Clips - invest in strong ones, they last 2 years and are worth it, they MUST be plastic -metal reacts with bleach in a bad way. Couple cutting combs, couple tail combs and GLEAM. Never color hair with out GLEAM, Argan Oil is even better, but I won't even use it until the price comes down a bit. I found the GLEAM works almost exactly the same.

I always need 8 clips and 4 combs, its just the standard prep tools I grab for - no matter what. As you can hopefully see the combs have different widths and teeth to help with the density of the hair.. if you have super coarse hair you may need the larger combs. I'm battling with some pretty freaky hair hair so this won't be an easy job for me, all the much better to show you the process with. Mannequins hair does not lay down flat like a real persons, among many other challenges, one would never think of!  The more organized you are at the beginning the easier the entire process will go for you. I want you to enjoy coloring your hair, so you look forward to doing it next time, not the other way around.

 

So the sectioning begins with getting your head into QUADRANTS. See the straight part from nose to nape. Then the straight part from ear to ear. Practice this parting not once or twice . . . practice getting it exactly EVEN 15 times! Yep its that important!

The head needs to be divided into 4 EQUAL SQUARES. If you do this and treat each as its own individual section, it will make your life easier AND ( the key to this is ) > it will make you faster in applying the color - the goal for most of you.

 Just different views of the whole "quadrant" idea I'd like to plaster into your brain. See how the whole head is divided into 1/4'ths. The reason for this ? ? ?  So you treat every quadrant as its own individual section, that you will be 'starting' and 'finishing' before going onto the next section.   You are to focus on that 1 section only. Nothing else.  It gives you a beginning -- middle -- and end to your project . .  something nice, when you feel like you don't know what you are doing. Right? Always starting at the bottom of each section FIRST - - working upward going to the top of that section and then completing it. 

Again notice the quadrants pointed out with the TAIL COMBS. Keep your hair in these quadrants at all times during the coloring process.

IT  WILL  MAKE  YOUR  LIFE SO  MUCH  EASIER ............. I  PROMISE

 

Next is the GLEAM, wonderful - glorious - GLEAM. What a Godsend this has been for me and my clients. . . as it will also be for you.

It depends on the amount of hair you have, but not a whole lot is needed

 

Just a few squirts if you got the smaller bottle and 2 eyedropper fulls if you got the larger bottle is plenty. The idea is to get the oil everywhere that you plan on applying any color/bleach/lightener at all. Do not worry about putting it everywhere ( if you feel like it) I was just trying to save you a bit of money, I actually put it on the entire head of hair. Its done some wonderful repairing for dry and damaged hair clients of mine. You will see.

  So there you have it, the entire head is gleamed up and read to have color applied. This one back section is all GLEAMED up and ready to go. You will want to begin applying the color  in the back 2 sections as they are the more resistant sections of the hair and are the most stubborn so we want the color on them the longest. Its like God planned it that way, so he gives us the time to get the color on the front sections without destroying the back sections. . .  Truly it does work that way! Its more than OK for the color to be on the back 2 sections for 20 minutes longer ( although we don't really 'think' like it, that way) - because of its resistance . . . until we can get to the front two sections and apply that color as fast as possible to those sections. So it all comes out "cooked" properly and done at the same time. 

Just like a great Thanksgiving dinner.

The next POST will be mixing the bleach and applying one section ONLY -- very slowly and just like this post so hopefully you will see in detail the proper manner in which to successfully color your hair. This may also be applied to the exact same process if you are tinting your hair brown or red or whatever color. This is a color RE-Touch and works for ALL COLORS!

Remember to vote for Trixie's hair cut . . . choice > > > in the comments section !

Killer Chemist