Re-Touch, Re-Touch . . the story continues
In our little project I decided to tackle 2 birds, as I get this additional question and problem all the time. It is the single biggest battle and conflict between clients and Hair stylists there is, and that is the battle between hi-lift blond versus bleach as the best and LEAST damaging lightener. I've spoken about it many times, people get all wrapped up in the "NAME". .for some strange reason the word "BLEACH" just plain and simply freaks people out when a hair stylist mentions it.
ALL people are afraid of the word BLEACH. I still haven't nailed the reason - 'why' - but its a universal problem. Some of it has to do with the fact that they have had bleach used on their hair and it was used incorrectly and destroyed their hair. All hair color if used INCORRECTLY can destroy your hair. But, there are just so many precautions set in place now with professional hair color. Do you realize that is the manufacturers main goal ??? to produce a shiny -- rich -- vibrant -- head of hair color - - I know this because a former best friend of mine was the regional VP for a large European Hair Color manufacturer. Remember your hair color is their calling card, that is why they strive to have the best color possible, its not something that one can hide, hair color is right there....IN YOUR FACE! But I can tell you that I have seen 50 times more destroyed hair from people using Boxed Hair Color Kits than from clients whom have used the bleach - wrong. So why isn't there a big terror factor with the words Boxed Hair Color Kit ? ? There should be, there really should be. ..
Today we will go into applying the high lift blonde on one quadrant in the proper manner . . . and then applying Levitation Oil Bleach ( my favorite bleach - so gentle and moisturizing) to the right back quadrant.
This way we can see twice how to apply a re-touch. . . showing you no matter what color or product you are using a re-touch is a re-touch and its all applied the same way.
Here is your supplies and some gloves!
This is my absolute favorite Hi- Lift-Blonde 100 ASH from Colorissimo - mixed with #27 Moonlight a gorgeous Lavender ASH and 40 Volume. So that is the color I go to when I want the very lightest, very whitest, very gorgeous Blond. Its just wonderful.
Now on this Mannequin I was told her hair is completely natural with no treatments on it to prevent my color from working exactly as it would on a human head. But you just never know. I'm going to bet that she will end up with Level 7-8 roots. . . . 8 at the very lightest . . .but Trixie is a mannequin with tricky hair - s we will just have to see.
The 2 back sections we will be working with today. Left will be the high-lift Blond and the right will be the Oil Bleach- Levitation. Treat each section as its own little quadrant. Don't even think about the rest of the head when you are working on the one section. It will help with your speed. Being able to apply the color quickly is a tremendous advantage, and the only trick to learning that ? ? ?
Is - PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE !
Always start with outlining the section - FIRST with the color or bleach.
have color on the brush so you can flip it around and apply color after you have parted off section.
Its a little tricky at first - - but again - practice - practice -- practice which is why
Working from the bottom of the quadrant to the top:
in 1/2 inch partings
again, I really encourage all of you to purchase a doll head and use her to practice on - this is your new hobby - - take it seriously and purchase the products you need to begin a new hobby . .There are about 20 different mannequins - so any thing you want is available.
Apply the product to the top and bottom section - roots - at the same time, to enable you to move quickly - which will help you get the job done quickly.
Now for interest in this project I have decided to apply bleach to the other side back quadrant . . . my absolute favorite 'on-the-scalp' bleach is Redken's Levitation Oil Bleach. It has been around for 20 Years and is the favorite of all the European Master Colorists as well, I will not do a bleach and tone without it. It leaves the hair in the best condition while also lightening the quickest and leaving the most striking tones. Its available as are all our favorite products in our little underground store called: KILLER COLOR CLINIC, you join our group first for access to the store. We like to remain small - quiet - and personal, there are 3 of us (Nikki & Detour ) to help when you make a purchase with guidance and help on the products you choose.
We are trying to promote HAIR COLOR as a new American Hobby and want to get it off the ground on the right foot.
So lets start the Bleaching side . . . 1st Step? Again OUTLINE the quadrant with the Bleach.
So this section is done the exact
same way as the high lift blonde. I
encourage all of you to practice
the DIP- PART - FLIP & APPLY
TECHNIQUE- once you get it
down, your application will go so
quickly and smoothly you will think
you were a PRO!. Seriously, its not
that hard and once again all it takes
its a little PRACTICE PRACTICE
PRACTICE
There you have it, the 2nd quadrant completed. I hope you got the feeling of working on each quadrant as its own little project...zipping through the slices with DPFA
DIP--PART--FLIP--APPLY
the faster you get the better your retouch is going to look, so each time you will get a little better and faster.
Time for them to 'cook', is what I like to call it.
I'm always calling the two hobbies the same - - - cooking and hair . I feel hair should be as natural and as organic and as fun as cooking I suppose, that may sound strange but I feel it can be . Can you imagine if you would have been offered a class in "Hair Care" or "HEALTHY HAIR" and then the advanced class was "HAIR COLOR 101 " in High School, what a great and productive Elective that would have been! Can you imagine the amount of people that would want to take the class ?
OK back to the subject ! ! ! ! ! Trixie's results will be in 2 days, so check back in . . .
Any questions? Please leave them in the Comments section . . . Have a great weekend everyone - I love you all . . . .
Killer chemist
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