the BLE--ATCHED Hair Series - #1

Bleached Hair Home Method

Lets Begin. . . .



I started this process using a doll head with Level 6BRV ( when you get used to the Level system > start including the "tones" in your descriptions) lets call her Molly...Molly has Level 6 Brown-Red-Violet > Virgin Hair.

This is something I have never tried (normally I use them to test new cuts on) plus - usually I have plenty of "people" who want their hair bleached. This time I wanted to be able to divide the head in quarters... compare and contrast --so I could show you the differences - as slight as you may think they are -- they are the difference in a professional (top notch) bleaching and typical home bleaching. Hearing the comments over and over as to 'why" celebs have such fantastic hair color, yet > you, do not. What I show you here will explain that, in a clear and concise manner









Also I want everyone reading this to get more comfortable with the word "BLEACH" ...get rid of the picture of Clothes "bleach"...that stinky weird stuff that turns your jeans "white" if you spill it on them...

The 2 products are nothing alike.

Try to warm up to the fact that Oil Bleach & powder hair bleach are a very mild and effective method of having your hair LIGHTENED to the proper shade of blond and I am going to prove that point to you with Photo's I have been taking of my Step by Step Bleach and Tone method.



Bleach is your friend - learn to love it -- as I have.....I do remember feeling the same way most fo you do about Bleach before I started Hair School, so I do understand, but no one explained it to me as I am...

You must learn to trust me or we are both wasting our time..



These are the ingredients it takes to mix up your bowl of OIL BLEACH... its not complicated ...you just have to mix the developer ( peroxide) in the bowl first....then add the powder bleach......mix REALLY hard....then add the OIL and mix REALLY HARD!

the dark stuff is the OIL. I used 40 Volume on Molly's ENDS...then will use 20 volume on the roots ( on a person - not a doll>> because the HEAT from the head warms the bleach up and makes it works twice as fast -- naturally!)



At all times I have at least 5-6 different types of bleach in the Lab. The reason? Different bleaches accomplish different results and there is nothing that can make such a

radical change in hair as this product. Precisely "WHY" I Love it so much. A TRUE COLORIST gets super excited with the most RADICAL METHOD there is to change the present state of hair. If the hair is black I love making it WHITE...

.If the hair is WHITE, I adore making it Black

The bigger the change ><>





When teaching Hair stylists that are new to go out into the world and become successful we tell them to use the words 'Lightener', & 'Decolor-izer'....& suggest they never use the word bleach.

Why? . . . because of everyone's "hang-up" with the word.

The hang-up stems from thoughts of the 'bleach' used in washing clothes..You know that hideous bottle of Clorox BLEACH, THAT is what all the laymen picture in their mind when the term BLEACH is first thrown at them.

Everyone has such a hatred toward bleach>

yet no one thinks twice about buying a BOXED KIT of HAIR COLOR

BOXED HAIR COLOR KITS are responsible for 65%--75%

of a Color Correction experts - correction business...

they keep Hair Stylists very busy > in fixing the mistakes they make

Makes me mad.

...Bleach used in Pools, that very strong Bleach that is used for industrial methods.... all of those methods use a completely different type of bleach. Has nothing to do with the mild conditioning completely different chemical make-up bleach that I am referring to and is used on your hair. As a colorist I wish they made a stronger bleach, the ones they make are soooo mild and so slow working , a lot of the procedures that are wanted today take a very long time to accomplish because of the "slow" and "mild" and "conditioning" bleaches on the market. So there!









I could go thru the "lets call it something else" method with you all..........but I want you to learn the "educated" method... the method the top hair stylists use.



WE USE THE WORD BLEACH



because that's what it is and that is what we know works the best.



ASK GWEN, her hair is lightened with Redken's Levitation Oil Bleach every 7-10 days and toned when needed or wanted.



The # 1 reason most of you have the banana head syndrome is because

• you are afraid to use bleach...


• afraid to leave it on the proper amount of time


• afraid to apply it twice ( almost always necessary ) even 3 times for Level 5 and below


• generally just PETRIFIED of the word & product

Am I right?

I know I am

I just have to convince you, I am.

Many of the most recent emails I receive { which is a lot, I am asking everyone to write to me in the COMMENTS section so you can see}....many say the same general thing. . . . .



"......how can I have Gwen Stefani blond hair without using bleach....."

or some manifistation of that sentence



My answer?? "Why in the Hell would you even want to not use bleach ?

You have it all wrong, its the people that don't use it, that walk around with BANANA HEAD SYNDROME





That is not possible. . . you do realize that...right?

Unless you have very light hair already - (virgin) hair that is LEVEL 9 or a Level 8, you will need bleach.

PERIOD.

Gwen uses it.

She is a Level 6



The rule is...if you are going to have fully bleached hair then you can't wear it any longer than the collar bone...the idea is to have healthy looking hair at all times.





If you don't want to use bleach > I'm not sure what to tell you....I cannot change the way the chemicals and science works....

>>> we are so fortunate to have the tools we do,

but you cannot buck the system,

be glad we have what we have and LOVE IT.

Embrace it and use every advantage we have...because there has never been a more exciting time in hair color as now.

The high end companies are making products that produce gorgeous colors while leaving your hair in the best shape ever....especially with bleaches.



You will never find a hair stylist that cares more about the condition of your hair as me.

That is why I had such a huge clientele and got it so quickly - the word spread.

I would not have you using anything I thought would destroy your hair, quite the contrary. Its "why" I use OIL BLEACH, very few Stylists do, they can't be bothered. Its messy and slower and why bother is the general consensus.

I use it because it is conditioning for the hair - period.



I have examined the cuticle under my microscope of hair lightened with oil bleach and hair lightened with powder bleach.



>>There is enough of a difference to warrant the pain in using it.

In some of my emails there are people suggesting things that are dangerous...like mixing tint(color) with bleach to get more lift or better color from it...

That combination is dangerous, no one should mix Color with bleach. There are rules and theories that must be followed. You must not try to make up your own ideas, that could be dangerous and that is where you will ruin your hair. I do not want to be responsible for that, my purpose in even being here is to help everyone have dynamite hair at home - exactly like the celebrities....for a fraction of the cost!



I'd like to start the education of the public in the "basics of hair color."..

nope its not rocket science but it can make a big difference in a lot of peoples lives...



Its very very possible to . . . . BUT >>you must follow MY RULES.

If I have not gotten to something you want to try then you MUST FOLLOW EXACTLY THE MANUFACTURERS DIRECTIONS on the package TO THE "T".

Do not vary one little tiny bit until you talk to me or someone who is a chemist > directly. There are many ways to tweak the system, but that gets learned from years of experience,





Now back to MOLLY.

For todays post I will show you Molly with her hair parted the correct way.... in Quarters.

Bleaching means parting the hair in quarters. Its the only process ( besides a Relaxer) that I stick to this with..

The application of the bleach must be applied to one quarter at a time



beginning in THE BACK. The front of the hair lightens QUICKER than the back. Like a Thanksgiving dinner you want all the parts finished at the same time! So the lightening looks even.

REDKEN OIL BLEACH

I will show mixing the Oil Bleach, I used Wellite instead of my favorite REDKEN'S LEVITATION - which I will show tomorrow. It only comes in bulk so If anyone requests it - I measure out the Oil & powder put in containers...to mail.



I didn't figure Molly would complain...even so, Wellite is my second choice.





If you are bleaching a virgin head of hair for the very first time....this is a photo of EXACTLY how & where you would start -- even with completely virgin hair ( depending on her porosity of course) most likely I would use 30 or 40 Volume >>on the lengths/ends --- followed by 20 Volume on the roots after the lengths have all been applied to first off

Here is the first section application of bleach ... you begin at the bottom of the section taking 1/4" inch parts ..apply from about 1" to 3/4"inch off the scalp, thru to the ends..

The next post will have lots of photos...you will follow me all the way to the end of coloring Mollys hair till its the color of GWENS !!

MERRY CHRISTMAS Killer Colorer's