Blee-atched Blonde Hair Series #2

2nd Part of Hair Bleach and Tone Series -
Preliminary Preparation for Bleaching Process
Happy New Year
BOYS AND GIRLS
Let continue on with our blee-ached blonde series by BAAAcking up!

I jumped ahead a bit in all my excitement...and need to back up a bit to make sure you have all the preliminary basics - I take for granted




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8 Key Factors Affecting:
the Double Process: Bleach & Tone

#1) Scalp Health: use fingers and a good mirror to check over the entire scalp, there should be no scabs, wounds, zits or any type of open skin abrasions on the scalp. If there are when you apply that bleach, ( yes, even oil bleach) you will jump through the roof. Better to prevent that from happening – your skin will thank me.

#2) End result determined: first taking into account the “5 LEVELS OF LIFT/DEPOSIT RULE”. Best advice by millions of pro hair stylists is not to go beyond 5 levels of lift or deposit from your natural level. There is reason and experience behind this theory and I (most of the time) go along with it. A Level 1 or 2 who wants to be blond looks excellent with panels of Level 7-8-9 ASH blonds - but not so great with Level 10-11 Blond.…. { I recently did a girls hair like this > am mad at myself for not taking photos. One of the biggest mistakes of my career is not documenting enough of it, I have photos, but of some of the most spectacular, I don’t. I’ve always thought, “I’ll do this again” then never do because the style & trends change grrr!}
If you are going for a Medium blond rather than a light blond you would leave more underlying pigment, usually undertones of GOLD. Light blonds need an undertone of YELLOW and very light blonds need PALE YELLOW.
Be sure to determine what level of blond you want to become -- with this tutorial we are going the lightest-- Level 12 Gwen Stefani – Frozen Butter (palest yellow) is the name of the game.

# 3 Hair Health: hair needs to be in pretty good condition for this procedure to be taken on. If the hair is in bad condition prior to…it will be destroyed after- this is not the procedure for you. Please work on your hairs condition before taking this up. Go through the Deep Slumber Protocol, I’ve never found any deep conditioner better than my THRIVEN – you leave it in overnight 2 nights a week. (6OZ Jar: $40.00) Killerstrands@gmail.com Your hair will improve in 1 month.

#4 Natural Level: More heavily pigmented hair takes longer to lighten; I find almost all Levels of hair need to bleached twice except possibly Level 8 and up…all the other factors matter as well.

#5 Gray Hair: Surprising to many, gray hair lightens fairly easily…gray hair is hair with no pigment so lightening it to the blond level is easy.

#6 Texture: Coarse hair takes longer to lighten than fine hair, which also means that fine hair needs to be watched closely so as not to leave the product on for too long.

#7 Porosity: Very porous hair lightens more easily than non porous hair. Porosity = the ability of hair to absorb & retain moisture – determined by how compact together the cuticle layers are (condition) – described as resistant/normal or over porous.

#8 Artificial Pigment: having old color or tint of any kind will alter the timing and application of any bleaching procedure. The area where the artificial pigment is will have to be reapplied many times. This is what can become tricky and one should proceed with caution. My only advice: every single head of hair is different, so every head of hair needs its own set of rules….keep your eye on the hair as the bleach is working…to make sure things are going OK. If Black pigment is in the hair, VANISH (color remover) needs to be used first.
There are no set rules for this instance except artificial pigment is harder to lift than natural pigment.



Mixing “On-The-Scalp” Bleach




Mixing the bleach to the proper consistency has a lot to do with how good your application will be and how efficient the lightening will be.

• Measure all the ingredients carefully and read and re-read the instructions, most think it sounds backwards I’m told, and the way they have you mix it, is important.
• A lot of things depend on how long the hair is, whether there is artificial pigment etc.but determine if you will be mixing two packets or one at first. Remember almost everyone will want to have 30V or 40 Volume on the “ends” and never higher than 20 Volume on the roots (Scalp) – some scalps are so sensitive they need 10 Volume to protect them. There is absolutely NO reason your scalp or head should hurt in this process. Any Hair Stylist that has ever done that to you – needs to go back to school! I would guess most of you should purchase at least 2 boxes of WELLITE, which gives you 4 packets of bleach ( still a bargain). If you are interested there is a Beauty Supply out here in Los Angeles ( that does NOT have a web site ! ! ! ! !) that has alarmingly LOW prices, you can order a dozen Wellite ON-THE-SCALP Box Kits for approx. $5.-$6/box + a 1LB tub of Wella Wellite Powder Bleach for $6.75 &/OR 1 LB tub of CLAIROL Basic White Bleach (for the ends) for $8.75....all excellent prices - don't quote me exactly, but they will be ball park. Nancys Beauty Warehouse 1-800-888-4055. They have excellent prices on many things.
diagram2A

• For 1 Packet: Pour 2 OZ 40 Volume Developer (30 Volume or ?for end remember) into bowl first – see diagram 2A
diagram2B


• Add contents of 1 lightener packet (bleach) > mix, stir or shake until dissolved – Diagram 2B
diagram 2C


• Add 1 OZ of WELLITE OIL (dark blue liquid) & mix thoroughly until smooth: the mixture will be like thick-smooth-rich- whipped cream almost – Diagram 2C & 2D





• diagram2D
  
  I suppose for many Readers you might like to use an applicator bottle, we were never allowed to in Academy so am accustomed to the bowl & tint brush method & doubt I could ever warm up to anything else... But, more power to you…whatever works the best and is the most thorough for you.

** After mixing bleach, be sure to have hair parted into 4 equal sections as in all hair color applications, as you see Molly's hair is here.

** Start application where hair is the darkest – almost always in the back.* Make 1/8 inch subsections, applying to the hair 1 inch away from the scalp and to the ends (depending on porosity of course). Applying to top and bottom combing through to be sure the bleach has saturated the section as evenly as possible – moving very quickly. Up one section…then up the next