10 Habits that will Destroy Your Hair - Yes, AGAIN !

You Want Hair Like This ? ? ?

Then You Must Follow This . . .

Any Questions ? ? ? ?

killer chemist

Win Cool Prizes for Home Hair Color Contest

Crib Colorist = Home Hair Colorist

Crib Colorist Award = Win Cool Prize for Diary of Your Home Hair Color Adventure

Stage 2 + Final > Tint Back to Natural - 2 stages

Tint Back to Natural – 2 stage Process - STAGE 2

Base + Slices Technique

This will be my last “re-run”: repeating what I have already written, I just find this is not easy for me. Having 257 ‘Posts’ under my belt, I have found that I try to write as if I was talking to you, to try to make my words sound better. Its funny, my mother has always told me that I am a “lousy writer”, it was not until this Blog when someone mentioned they liked my writing, did I ever think that maybe I was OK enough to get by, I should’ve known better, she says that about most everything I’ve done.

That’s part of the stumbling block for good Blogs I think. Everyone wants a great writer at the helm, but if that’s what you have then that is most likely their specialty. . .”WRITING”, not beauty, or skin, or sports, or guns or hair or whatever. So I feel if you want a great informative blog, authored by a specialist in ‘whatever’ category…such as hair, make-up, skin, guns, politics, most likely they are not a Pulitzer prize winning author, most likely they are like me – because their specialty is their focus, not writing. Having never spent any time learning to write properly, is only because I have been busy learning other things along life’s path, not because I didn’t care. My salon clientele used to come to me just to listen to me talk about everything I knew about hair, I’m passionate about everything I do, so I hoped that if I mimic that experience in writing, it would not come out too objectionable…but to have to repeat it all again?…errr grumble-grumble, terribly frustrating for me. It’s almost over.

Thinking about the reasons this method is so successful for you, who want to go from blonde back to natural, or some morph of it, reminded me the reason clients like you like this method so much. You are used to the most high maintenance hair there is… a Bleach n Tone…it takes the most frequent touch-ups, toners & care. Then, to go from that to straight 1 color brown, is not interesting enough to most of you - so this intermediary version satisfies many of your urges and desires for fun and fascinating hair! This way you can plan your next color choices, some end up putting red-violet slices in the mix or copper even, which adds to that overall ‘fun and fascination’ !

Lets Begin

Tools

• Towels


• Plastic clips


• Tail comb


• Cutting comb


• Old shirt/cape


• 3 Plastic or glass bowls


• Gloves


• 3 Tint brushes


• In-Depth – Wella Treatment


• Shampoo


• Detangler


• Liquid Hair Restructurizer


• Timer


• Selected 3 Colors & Developers
  
  

Formulations

• 7NBG Colorissimo+ 20 Volume


• Blondor Crème Bleach + 10 Volume


• Mink Beige RenColor Level 8 + 17 Volume
  
  
  
  

Preparation



1. Perform a preliminary PATCH test, 24 hours prior to the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. If you are an allergic person I would highly encourage this step. It needs to be done with every ‘new’ brand and product you apply to you head. For instance, If you use Renbow’s Colorissimo (permanent tube color) the decide to use the RenColor (permanent bottle color) for something else, yes the patch test needs to be run again. PATCH – SKIN.



2. Perform a Preliminary STRAND Test. This should always be done as soon as you get the color you are planning to use. It’s a test run….a vision of what it will be like when finished, don’t be too lazy or think you know what results will be. Part off ½-inch square strand of hair in the lower crown – underneath – (not at the very bottom). Use a foil to hold the strip of hair and apply a small mixture of the color. Check it at 15 minutes, then at 25. Note the timing down on a card. STRAND-HAIR.



3. Remove jewelry – apply cape or old shirt.



Procedure



This is where you should start looking at the posted photos down the right side of this post, begin at the top and just glance at each one on the way down. Then read thru steps and compare to photos -- you are not given the capacity to line them up (with the words) – sorry.



Take “Before” “During” & “After” Photos (minimum 6), remember you can win the CRIB COLORIST AWARD, “if” you document your own hair color adventure. Hair Color needs to be from Killer Strands. Noting formula’s, techniques, trials & tribulations, ** what you learned new from Killer Strands Blog & the Killer Strands Group. Post the whole thing: story (minimum 1000 words) & pictures on a page in the group ( ask for help from T, Detour, Nik or myself if needed). When this is done YOU win the Crib Colorist award. It doesn’t need to be correct or special or anything, you just need to document it all for us to view, to win.

The PRIZE? ? ?

THE CRIB COLORIST AWARD which includes a gift from Killer Strands that includes:

• Hair Color Key
  
  o Carbon Combs: 1 tail comb & 1 cutting comb
  
  o 4 oz. Measuring cup
  
  o Shampoo Sprayer for sink
  
  o 2 Tint bowls
  
  o 2 Tint brushes
  
  o 12 pc. Hair testing swatches – real human hair……..So think about it!
  
  
  
  


• 1. Part & Section hair is always the first step in all procedures & techniques. On this we will only be parting NOSE TO NECK > Part 2: Section-off the top which is the basis for all wonderful color work including ribbons, slices, the veil, almost every great technique. Sassoon does this differently than any other hair school, so pay attention. Part into even pie shapes or triangles on either side of the center part. PRACTICE THIS, because it needs to be perfect à EVEN à and not sloppy. Have you gotten your doll head yet? Get one; they have men, women + every length of hair. If enough of you get them I will take you through an elementary cutting class. Let me know.


• 2. Fold your Foils, I’m trying to get a hold of foils I can carry for you, at a decent price. Remember a double ¼” fold at the top of one side.


• 3. Prepare the color formulations, be all ready to go before you actually mix them up, and remember the color is best when used immediately. For this we are using 7NBG + 20Volume Colorissimo – Renbow {or use your own color formulation at this point}. Crème Bleach (most mild there is) + 10 or 20 Volume depending on the amount of lift
  
  needed. Last, Mink Beige #22 RenColor + 17 Volume. * * * * RETURN TOPS TO ALL DEVELOPERS * * * *. The idea here being to use 2 light brown colors to some thin slices on either side of the head/hair, to begin the re-introduction of darker colors to the hair and your vision.


• 4. Put on Gloves, have comb, foils and bowls lined up and ready to go. Line up mirrors if your tackling this yourself. Its actually made to apply to yourself there is basically no work on the back side of the head!


• 5. Begin on one side, hold the section of hair and take your FIRST slice of hair a super-thin slice of hair à AT AN ANGLE -- ½ inch from the front with tail comb.


• 6. To “test” the proper angle of your section, you should stick a comb in the middle of the section back to the apex of the parting in the back.


• 7. Press the foil down to the scalp, slip it under the slice of hair, lay the hair down, and paint on the Level 8 Mink Beige -- covering completely all the hairs. Starting with the lightest Color first, so there is not a dark stripe right at the front next to your face.


• 8. Continue the next one leaving a ½ to ¾ inch of hair alone in between {this is very hard to say use your best judgment} some people have small heads and ¾” would be WAY too much, this all depends on the size of your head. Look to the photos to see how I did it on Molly’s head of hair. Spacing the foils according to the hair and head size.


• 9. Alternating here with Level 8 Mink Beige + 17 Vol., then bleach + 10V, then Colorissimo 7NBG & 20 Vol., bleach & 10Vol up the one side till finished. Then up the other side till finished.


• 10. Process for 35 minutes, (this is a tough call remember when going the same color or darker – you want to add 10-15 minutes to the timing…..when going lighter you don’t) Here you are doing both at the same time! Its not a perfect world.


• 11. Rinse the hair with lukewarm water – thoroughly – in the sink with a spray hose contraption ( I will be carrying these soon as well)


• 12. Lightly shampoo with an SLS-FREE Shampoo, rinse again. Shake the excess water out.


• 13. Apply Wella’s IN DEPTH After-color treatment to mainly hair that has been colored – massaging in. Leave on for 5-20 minutes – rinse. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP, this brings the pH balance back to the hair and helps with conditioning, moisturizing, re-balancing and shine.


• 14. Towel dry, Spray with Wella LIQUID HAIR Restructurizer, your Detangler – Dry & Style


• 15. Clean-up and sanitation . . . . Putting combs (not clips), bowls (not tint brushes) through a dishwasher cycle sanitizes them for your next go-round! For clips and Tint Brushes: clean and rinse with super hot water for 3-4 minutes to sanitize. For Killerstranders there is a spray disinfectant (I will carry soon) that is handy called MARVY spray disinfectant you can simply spray everything with. Cleanliness is next to Godliness and Hair OCDness !


• 16. Jot down in your hair notebook what went down and how you would change it next time, don’t rely on your memory.


• 17. YOU ARE FINISHED- How did you do? Take photos – post in the GROUP, everyone is anxious to know how you did
  
  Next time you would add more browns - different Levels and tones to add to depth and interest.

Tint Back To Natural Technique - 2 Stages - Stage 1 (again!)

I cannot believe I had to do this…..all again

Damn You Microsoft

2 Stages – Stage 1 Today

I will never be able to replicate the way I wrote this post the first time, agood ole Microsoft program took and deleted both of these posts pictures and all….that took me 4 days to complete… the first one is always the best, so for that I apologize.

A “Tint-Back” is exactly as it says for once: tinting the hair back to its natural color – most commonly from a Level 10-12 Blond to a Level 2 thru 7 Brunette. There are a number of ways of returning a blond to their roots, this particular method I find the easiest and the most successful for you, Crib Colorists. One of the most common problems being : the person has been looking at “light” hair for a substantial amount of time so to go to “dark” abruptly can many times be a shock. Yes, many think they can handle it, once they’ve made the decision, but that is not always the case. In addition to the fact that to go from white to brown is an advance procedure (which at one point I will teach you - not to worry) yet to go from white to brown gradually is an easier to accomplish protocol.

For starters, this is the step where we basically give the hair “roots”, some of you may have them from your own hairs REAL roots… some may not but as you can see Molly has no roots (she must have just done her hair-sssh!) so we will have to give her roots or a “base” as we call it. In the Colorist world we refer to the first 1 inch of the hair as the “base”, I believe most of you refer to it as “roots”…I suggest you make the switch in your mind and in your wording so we are all on the same page. If we are going to turn this sport into a hobby, we should employ the proper vocabulary of a Colorist. If you have an inch of roots ( Molly has grey in her hair) and there is Grey then you will need to apply in this manner and formulation to cover the grey.

From now on I am going to do all hair color DEMO’s in the following fashion, taking time to tell you what tools you will need and how to prepare properly, which is how I should have done it all along . . . it just skipped my mind or I was going for the fastest route possible. I’m starting to understand how this whole thing should work.

Let’s begin.

Tools

• Towels






• Tail comb






• Cutting comb






• Clips-plastic






• Old shirt/cape






• Plastic or glass bowl






• Color Block






• Gloves






• Foils - 2 or 3






• Tint brush






• In-Depth – Wella Treatment






• Shampoo-SLS-Free






• Wella Liquid Hair Restructurizer






• Timer






• Selected Color & Developer

Preparation
1. Perform a preliminary patch test, 24 hours prior to the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. If you are an allergic person I would highly encourage this step. It needs to be done with every ‘new’ brand and product you apply to you head. For instance, If you use Renbow’s Colorissimo (permanent tube color) the decide to use the RenColor (permanent bottle color) for something else, yes the patch test needs to be run again.
2. Perform a Preliminary STRAND Test. This should always be done as soon as you get the color you are planning to use. It’s a test run….a vision of what it will be like when finished, don’t be too lazy or think you know what results will be. As much information as I give you and even when you purchase from me and get my personal help, remember > I’m am working “BLIND” and I have made mistakes with a few of you, and the one and only reason I have? I cannot SEE & I cannot TOUCH or FEEL your HAIR – which is a huge part of a consultation. Its no one’s fault …BUT…I forget to ask just one question sometimes, it happened recently, & you forget to tell me….but if I “SAW” you I would have seen that you had 40% grey hair. So it is imperative that you all run Strand tests, I’m very used to not making ANY mistakes - & would like to continue that record, if at all possible. Part off ½-inch square strand of hair in the lower crown – underneath – (not at the very bottom). Use a foil to hold the strip of hair and apply a small mixture of the color. Check it at 15 minutes, then at 25. Note the timing down on a card.
3. Remove jewelry – apply cape or old shirt.
4. Apply Color Block around hairline & over ears.
Procedure
This is where you should start looking at the photos, begin at the top and just glance at each one on the way down. Then read thru steps and compare to photos -- you are not given the capacity to line them up – sorry.

1. Part & Section hair into 4 sections, remember? Nose to Neck….Ear to Ear
2. Prepare the color formulation, be all ready to go before you actually mix it up, remember the color is best when used immediately. For this we are using 7N + 7NBG + 20Volume Colorissimo – Renbow {or use your own color formulation at this point}
3. Put on Gloves
4. Begin in the section where the hair is the most resistant (FRONT) and remember to treat each section like a “mini” head of hair. Working as fast and efficiently as possible. If you have a color partner have them stand in front of each section as they work on it, if you are doing your own – have those mirrors all set up and aligned with towels spread all over the counters and floor. Outline the section first – only going 1 inch off the scalp. Part off a ¼” subsection with the tail of the tint brush – painting the color on 1 inch of roots -- top and bottom moving up the section as quickly and evenly as possible
5. Move to other front section, followed by the back sections in same manner
6. Process according to your strand test, or the complete 45-55 minutes, again I feel color should be left on 10-15 minutes longer than manufacturer suggests ( it will not go darker than chosen color)
7. Use shower head or nozzle for sink (K-Mart) to rinse with lukewarm water. With just roots being done you want to rinse color out of hair quickly, so as to keep blond – clean. Rinse thoroughly

8. Apply IN-DEPTH to root area of hair massaging gently in, then apply lightly to rest of hair, let soak in for 5 minutes minimum - 5-15 minutes is timing on IN-DEPTH > Rinse thoroughly > towel dry & apply Wella's Liquid Hair (detangler) - if you are one of the ones that needs a daily conditioner - by all means use it at this point

9. Towel Dry and style.

10. Jot down notes on your experience - noting things you would change the next time. This is how you get better. Get yourself a Hair notebook – maybe your daughter will want this someday or a cousin, a nephew even.
11. Clean up and sanitize your tools – there is a spray sanitizer which is probably significant for Crib Colorists, remember HOT water for 5 minutes – sanitizes just about everything.

HOW DID YOU DO?

Stage 2 tomorrow

Patch Test for Hair Color: Necessity or Waste?

Sloppy technique = Sloppy Hair







I would like you all to learn the proper - British- Boot Camp standards that I learned...it made me a better Hair Stylist/Colorist - as it will you.







Please attempt one of these, for practice and for knowledge....jot down your results and post in the GROUP.







PATCH TEST

When working with hair color, you will have to determine whether you have any allergies or sensitivities to the mixture. Please don’t blow this off, I know it takes an extra day…but there is a reason we do it. In the Salon I had every single person sign a questionnaire before I touched their hair, I bet 90% of you never filled out a questionnaire. I believe in rules, regulations and sensitivities…I have them. Within my questionnaire I gave them the opportunity to take the patch test, if they didn’t want to they had to sign a release. I also asked them if they were allergic to pollen, any foods or any drugs, if they answered yes and listed a row of them . . . we ran the test anyway. People are allergic to hair color, just like there are people allergic to the sun and grass, things we cannot get rid of. I did not get into this business to inflict any type of pain, and that CAN happen if precautions are not taken, its even a lot easier for you Crib Colorists to perform this and wait one day. We are starting a new hobby here – for it to fly we need to follow the pro’s rules.

Performing a PATCH Test

1. Select test area, behind the ear or on the inside of the elbow are good choices.

2. Using a mild soap, cleanse and dry an area about the size of a quarter

3. Mix a small amount of product according to the manufacturers directions

4. Apply to the test area with a sterile cotton swab

5. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours

6. Examine the test area. If there are no signs of redness or irritation you can proceed with the color service.

A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates the color may be safely applied.

A positive result will show redness and a slight rash or welt – A positive result will show redness and slight rash or welt. If you have these symptoms, under no circumstances should you use the product that you tested. Do not panic though, there are many lines of hair color … with many different chemical bases for you to choose from. Renbow has the least amount of objectionable ingredients in their products, one of the many reasons I use them – I have clients with super sensitive scalps, which is not saying it is an allergic reaction – if I use Renbow’s Colorissimo they remark they felt nothing on their scalp it is so gentle… using a natural BEESWAX for its base.

Sorry

A HUGE MISTAKE just happened by MICROSOFTS horrific program WINDOWS LIVE WRITER............... it deleted both of my week long efforts to produce a DEMO for a TINT BACK.

Which will take me days to re-write and re-post

I CANNOT BELIEVE IT

makes me want to get a MAC

Best Hair Care Book Around

If you wanted to buy one book on hair care and hair advice this would be it, in my humble opinion. I own every hair book ever printed and some that weren't printed, this is hands down my fav.
Philip Kingsley is an Englishman who has spent a lifetime analyzing and fixing heads of hair throughout the world. I would love to have his job. He's been around for a very long time and to tap that brain of his, divine.
Whether you consider your hair to be your crowning glory, a problem that just won't go away, or something that is going away all too fast, this book will provide you with help, reassurance and practical advice that can be put to immediate, beneficial use. I would say his main focus centers on hair loss as a result of various maladies, and how to combat that. In England they have a category of hair experts we don't acknowledge here in the States, Trichology. I considered becoming licensed and holding the certificate, but decided I would spend more time - EXPLAINING what in the world - Trichology - 'was'! I hope someday soon it crosses the pond.
Kingsley is credited with developing the statement, " Bad Hair Day" ! Which I consider excellent marketing for a man that repairs bad hair ! He is a man with the right goals and vision in life, so the facts behind his studies are on the money. Worth every penny.
Maybe someday I will have my own. The outline is made.

Parting:Sectioning:Tools - Prepare to Color Yo Hair - Part #2

Captioned Slide Show -- to add to the the previous post, with additional photos - Enjoy







June 7, 2008
Scroll to bottom of page for brand new Slide Show :
Applying hair color to roots, 1 quadrant at a time

Parting The Red Sea: Sectioning The Hair

Parting -- Sectioning -- Tools



Long Overdue Post which I do apologize to those of you that I have promised it to.



Alas, here it is.



















In normal everyday Cosmo Schools they spend at least 4-5 months on this topic, at Sassoon, we spent about a month. That is how important it is and I know it and I invite you all to listen, learn and practice this. In preparation to Color, to Cut, to Perm, to Straighten, & to Blow Dry . . . the art of Preparation is about the most important step you will take in the entire process. Please don't discount it. I know so many like to crack open those bottles and pile on the color, while asking questions later. So many of you try that, only to come back to me with your tail between your legs and defeated. I honestly wish from the bottom of my heart that you could all avoid that step, which was the purpose of this site to begin with, so try to absorb this and at best . . . practice it a few times.













Hair Preparation includes Hair consultation which is what we tackle in the GROUP and in private settings on this web site. Consultation includes, what Level & Tone are you now and what Level & Tone do we want to be when we are finished, that we have covered in many posts to date.













Basic Tools for Hair Color. Within the Academy they give you an arms length list that you are required to purchase, as you cannot take the State Board Test without all of those tools. So many are outdated and still sit at the bottom of a Hair Case, so you will learn the ones you NEED & use constantly - the Bare Basics. We will cover preparation to haircolor & begin with the list of what I would suggest.

• Cutting Comb #11


• Tail Comb


• Paddle Brush


• Clips - Strong quality


• Water bottle


• Clean Touch - skin color remover


• Color Block


• Cape/ Old T-shirt


• Gloves - Latex

All of these products can be purchased at your local beauty supply or Target. I find a difference in quality, even in combs, I don't know if you will or not - your decision.







Cutting Comb: When I first got in this gig, I was shocked that people actually used combs. Seemed so archaic to me, then I learned they become your best friend. So cozy up and get a couple of these, the photo is a very typical one, and I always have 20 - 25 of these ready to go, 2-3 will be sufficient for you.







Tail Comb: This bugger is handy, for anything and everything (getting lettuce out of your teeth, even) Parting is its main mission and sectioning comes in second. Guess what so many of the older Stylists use it for ? my favorite. . . . highlights....NOT. Remember: highlights are history. Many many uses for this, get the best one you can. Maybe get one $5.00 and 1-2 for $1.00. ?

















Paddle Brush: My favorite all around brush. At Sassoon we use an old England stand-by..Denman brushes. Another point of contention for me when I began this adventure. The paddle brush looks up-to-date, but you should see some of their others. They do look like they are out of the 19th century hair vaults, but one more time -- they rock. Their isn't a Denman brush I wouldn't use, and they are super reasonably priced. The paddle you see here is $12.00 , and they are everywhere, check their site. The 9-row is the best blow-drying brush around, although that does come along with the funny technique we teach...once I introduce it to you I imagine you will be a sucker for it as well.



























































Clips: they must be strong like mine, or you will spend more money on replacing them than the cheap ones are worth. About $6-8 for 6. A Must.











Clean Touch: I have a Matrix one at the moment as you can see by my dye remover, but CLEAN TOUCH can be had at Sally's and that was Sassoon's choice. This is a must, for everyone except straight blonde's. Obviously blonde will not stain the skin, but if you use anything darker than a Level 8 in your hair - or plan to, I would highly suggest the big bottle which will last a lifetime ( works on clothes, the carpeting) Always - Always clean up the hairline. Keeping the head and hairline neat & clean while in working-mode, needs to be a goal of yours. Neat workspace = Neat work. Take the extra minutes to clean up as you go.



























































Color Block: A very handy little tool that I use in a few different ways. One of our Killerstranders is in love with the product she uses it while dyeing her lace wigs. Its a rich thick cream that keeps hair color from 'creeping'. Works well with super tricky hair color tricks, as well as coating the hairline with it to keep the color off the skin. Yep, a double shot way of keeping that damn color OFF-THE SKIN. Block it and Clean Touch it. As a hi-brow Colorist, you never EVER want one drop of Color on a clients forehead...I just don't think it should be done. Try to incorporate my standards into your practice, on yourself.











































PARTING

Sectioning and Parting must be mastered. Otherwise you will spend hours of time with piles of hair in the wrong place and things will not come out near as easy or as organized as you might have hoped.

Every time you get ready to do something to your hair, you must part & section it first, every single last time. The first thing you should do when getting ready to do anything INCLUDING BLOWDRYING, is to reach for that b and part & section the hair, period. this should be the end of your "where do I start"? questions.



























For a quick trick to memorize:

NOSE TO NECK . . . . . . . . . . . EAR TO EAR

















Use that tail comb, your good one and do this 20 times. I'M SERIOUS. The thing is, its easy to do when the hair is wet, but 90% of hair color is begun on dry hair. So practice getting that part straight on dry hair - which is not quite so easy -it is important to be able to master it and for it to be in the right spot. Directly in the middle of your nose and head all the way back to the top of your spine. (a good time to have those rear-view mirrors installed in your bathroom) unless you have achieved access to the ultimate tool and that is a hair color partner. This can be a fun event, I hear it all the time now. Remember we are the founding fathers of a brand new American hobby -- Hair Color. I say, why the Hell not?







Now check out the top of the head here, there should be a criss-cross exactly in the middle of the head. Don't disregard this process please...parting affects how the hair color is applied and if we want to begin a new hobby we might as well use the business model from the most successful and reputable Hair Academy in the world. They are fanatic parting practitioners, I used to get very fed up.











This parting will work for a basic hair cut, something else I want to go into, and any basic hair color application. You now have 4 quadrants, that need to be looked at as their own unique individual sections. Applying the color to each quadrant needs to be purposeful and quick. I believe if you look at just getting through 1 quadrant at a time, it will be a lot easier on you. I encourage you all to attempt the Tint Brush and bowl method of application, once you practice with it you will learn that in the end it is not only easier, the haircolor saturates the strands of hair much better. Its important to use lots of color product on the brush and to brush it into the hair on applying. I truly do not think that can be handled with a bottle the way it needs to be.







No one expects you to be "HELENA HAIR COLOR" right off the bat.





NO one, so neither should you.











Give yourself some practice I still think investing in a doll head and clamp is a worthy investment. I live alone and love it, so I never think of every other person out there who most likely lives with others...I guess you all could just sit your daughter, husband or dog down on the Sofa and ask that they let you practice on their hair. Trade them for something, most people love having their head played with, it relaxes them.







This is Part 1 of a 3 Part Series that will be completed this week . . .