Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Tint Back To Natural Technique - 2 Stages - Stage 1 (again!)





I cannot believe I had to do this…..all again


Damn You Microsoft

2 Stages – Stage 1 Today

I will never be able to replicate the way I wrote this post the first time, agood ole Microsoft program took and deleted both of these posts pictures and all….that took me 4 days to complete… the first one is always the best, so for that I apologize.



A “Tint-Back” is exactly as it says for once: tinting the hair back to its natural color – most commonly from a Level 10-12 Blond to a Level 2 thru 7 Brunette. There are a number of ways of returning a blond to their roots, this particular method I find the easiest and the most successful for you, Crib Colorists. One of the most common problems being : the person has been looking at “light” hair for a substantial amount of time so to go to “dark” abruptly can many times be a shock. Yes, many think they can handle it, once they’ve made the decision, but that is not always the case. In addition to the fact that to go from white to brown is an advance procedure (which at one point I will teach you - not to worry) yet to go from white to brown gradually is an easier to accomplish protocol.






For starters, this is the step where we basically give the hair “roots”, some of you may have them from your own hairs REAL roots… some may not but as you can see Molly has no roots (she must have just done her hair-sssh!) so we will have to give her roots or a “base” as we call it. In the Colorist world we refer to the first 1 inch of the hair as the “base”, I believe most of you refer to it as “roots”…I suggest you make the switch in your mind and in your wording so we are all on the same page. If we are going to turn this sport into a hobby, we should employ the proper vocabulary of a Colorist. If you have an inch of roots ( Molly has grey in her hair) and there is Grey then you will need to apply in this manner and formulation to cover the grey.






From now on I am going to do all hair color DEMO’s in the following fashion, taking time to tell you what tools you will need and how to prepare properly, which is how I should have done it all along . . . it just skipped my mind or I was going for the fastest route possible. I’m starting to understand how this whole thing should work.










Let’s begin.






Tools










  • Towels





  • Tail comb





  • Cutting comb





  • Clips-plastic





  • Old shirt/cape





  • Plastic or glass bowl





  • Color Block





  • Gloves





  • Foils - 2 or 3





  • Tint brush





  • In-Depth – Wella Treatment





  • Shampoo-SLS-Free





  • Wella Liquid Hair Restructurizer





  • Timer





  • Selected Color & Developer

Preparation
1. Perform a preliminary patch test, 24 hours prior to the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. If you are an allergic person I would highly encourage this step. It needs to be done with every ‘new’ brand and product you apply to you head. For instance, If you use Renbow’s Colorissimo (permanent tube color) the decide to use the RenColor (permanent bottle color) for something else, yes the patch test needs to be run again.
2. Perform a Preliminary STRAND Test. This should always be done as soon as you get the color you are planning to use. It’s a test run….a vision of what it will be like when finished, don’t be too lazy or think you know what results will be. As much information as I give you and even when you purchase from me and get my personal help, remember > I’m am working “BLIND” and I have made mistakes with a few of you, and the one and only reason I have? I cannot SEE & I cannot TOUCH or FEEL your HAIR – which is a huge part of a consultation. Its no one’s fault …BUT…I forget to ask just one question sometimes, it happened recently, & you forget to tell me….but if I “SAW” you I would have seen that you had 40% grey hair. So it is imperative that you all run Strand tests, I’m very used to not making ANY mistakes - & would like to continue that record, if at all possible. Part off ½-inch square strand of hair in the lower crown – underneath – (not at the very bottom). Use a foil to hold the strip of hair and apply a small mixture of the color. Check it at 15 minutes, then at 25. Note the timing down on a card.
3. Remove jewelry – apply cape or old shirt.
4. Apply Color Block around hairline & over ears.
Procedure
This is where you should start looking at the photos, begin at the top and just glance at each one on the way down. Then read thru steps and compare to photos -- you are not given the capacity to line them up – sorry.

1. Part & Section hair into 4 sections, remember? Nose to Neck….Ear to Ear
2. Prepare the color formulation, be all ready to go before you actually mix it up, remember the color is best when used immediately. For this we are using 7N + 7NBG + 20Volume Colorissimo – Renbow {or use your own color formulation at this point}
3. Put on Gloves
4. Begin in the section where the hair is the most resistant (FRONT) and remember to treat each section like a “mini” head of hair. Working as fast and efficiently as possible. If you have a color partner have them stand in front of each section as they work on it, if you are doing your own – have those mirrors all set up and aligned with towels spread all over the counters and floor. Outline the section first – only going 1 inch off the scalp. Part off a ¼” subsection with the tail of the tint brush – painting the color on 1 inch of roots -- top and bottom moving up the section as quickly and evenly as possible
5. Move to other front section, followed by the back sections in same manner
6. Process according to your strand test, or the complete 45-55 minutes, again I feel color should be left on 10-15 minutes longer than manufacturer suggests ( it will not go darker than chosen color)
7. Use shower head or nozzle for sink (K-Mart) to rinse with lukewarm water. With just roots being done you want to rinse color out of hair quickly, so as to keep blond – clean. Rinse thoroughly




8. Apply IN-DEPTH to root area of hair massaging gently in, then apply lightly to rest of hair, let soak in for 5 minutes minimum - 5-15 minutes is timing on IN-DEPTH > Rinse thoroughly > towel dry & apply Wella's Liquid Hair (detangler) - if you are one of the ones that needs a daily conditioner - by all means use it at this point





9. Towel Dry and style.





10. Jot down notes on your experience - noting things you would change the next time. This is how you get better. Get yourself a Hair notebook – maybe your daughter will want this someday or a cousin, a nephew even.
11. Clean up and sanitize your tools – there is a spray sanitizer which is probably significant for Crib Colorists, remember HOT water for 5 minutes – sanitizes just about everything.






HOW DID YOU DO?






Stage 2 tomorrow
























































































































































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