Long Overdue Post which I do apologize to those of you that I have promised it to.
Alas, here it is.
In normal everyday Cosmo Schools they spend at least 4-5 months on this topic, at Sassoon, we spent about a month. That is how important it is and I know it and I invite you all to listen, learn and practice this. In preparation to Color, to Cut, to Perm, to Straighten, & to Blow Dry . . . the art of Preparation is about the most important step you will take in the entire process. Please don't discount it. I know so many like to crack open those bottles and pile on the color, while asking questions later. So many of you try that, only to come back to me with your tail between your legs and defeated. I honestly wish from the bottom of my heart that you could all avoid that step, which was the purpose of this site to begin with, so try to absorb this and at best . . . practice it a few times.
Hair Preparation includes Hair consultation which is what we tackle in the GROUP and in private settings on this web site. Consultation includes, what Level & Tone are you now and what Level & Tone do we want to be when we are finished, that we have covered in many posts to date.
Basic Tools for Hair Color. Within the Academy they give you an arms length list that you are required to purchase, as you cannot take the State Board Test without all of those tools. So many are outdated and still sit at the bottom of a Hair Case, so you will learn the ones you NEED & use constantly - the Bare Basics. We will cover preparation to haircolor & begin with the list of what I would suggest.
- Cutting Comb #11
- Tail Comb
- Paddle Brush
- Clips - Strong quality
- Water bottle
- Clean Touch - skin color remover
- Color Block
- Cape/ Old T-shirt
- Gloves - Latex
All of these products can be purchased at your local beauty supply or Target. I find a difference in quality, even in combs, I don't know if you will or not - your decision.
Cutting Comb: When I first got in this gig, I was shocked that people actually used combs. Seemed so archaic to me, then I learned they become your best friend. So cozy up and get a couple of these, the photo is a very typical one, and I always have 20 - 25 of these ready to go, 2-3 will be sufficient for you.
Tail Comb: This bugger is handy, for anything and everything (getting lettuce out of your teeth, even) Parting is its main mission and sectioning comes in second. Guess what so many of the older Stylists use it for ? my favorite. . . . highlights....NOT. Remember: highlights are history. Many many uses for this, get the best one you can. Maybe get one $5.00 and 1-2 for $
1.00. ?Paddle Brush: My favorite all around brush. At Sassoon we use an old England stand-by..Denman brushes. Another point of contention for me when I began this adventure. The paddle brush looks up-to-date, but you should see some of their others. They do look like they are out of the 19th century hair vaults, but one more time -- they rock. Their isn't a Denman brush I wouldn't use, and they are super reasonably priced. The paddle you see here is $12.00 , and they are everywhere, check their site. The 9-row is the best blow-drying brush around, although that does come along with the funny technique we teach...once I introduce it to you I imagine you will be a sucker for it as well.
Clips: they must be strong like mine, or you will spend more money on replacing them than the cheap ones are worth. About $6-8 for 6. A Must.
Clean Touch: I have a Matrix one at the moment as you can see by my dye remover, but CLEAN TOUCH can be had at Sally's and that was Sassoon's choice. This is a must, for everyone except straight blonde's. Obviously blonde will not stain the skin, but if you use anything darker than a Level 8 in your hair - or plan to, I would highly suggest the big bottle which will last a lifetime ( works on clothes, the carpeting) Always - Always clean up the hairline. Keeping the head and hairline neat & clean while in working-mode, needs to be a goal of yours. Neat workspace = Neat work. Take the extra minutes to clean up as you go.
Color Block: A very handy little tool that I use in a few different ways. One of our Killerstranders is in love with the product she uses it while dyeing her lace wigs. Its a rich thick cream that keeps hair color from 'creeping'. Works well with super tricky hair color tricks, as well as coating the hairline with it to keep the color off the skin. Yep, a double shot way of keeping that damn color OFF-THE SKIN. Block it and Clean Touch it. As a hi-brow Colorist, you never EVER want one drop of Color on a clients forehead...I just don't think it should be done. Try to incorporate my standards into your practice, on yourself.
PARTING
Sectioning and Parting must be mastered. Otherwise you will spend hours of time with piles of hair in the wrong place and things will not come out near as easy or as organized as you might have hoped.
Every time you get ready to do something to your hair, you must part & section it first, every single last time. The first thing you should do when getting ready to do anything INCLUDING BLOWDRYING, is to reach for that b and part & section the hair, period. this should be the end of your "where do I start"? questions.
For a quick trick to memorize:
NOSE TO NECK . . . . . . . . . . . EAR TO EAR
Use that tail comb, your good one and do this 20 times. I'M SERIOUS. The thing is, its easy to do when the hair is wet, but 90% of hair color is begun on dry hair. So practice getting that part straight on dry hair - which is not quite so easy -it is important to be able to master it and for it to be in the right spot. Directly in the middle of your nose and head all the way back to the top of your spine. (a good time to have those rear-view mirrors installed in your bathroom) unless you have achieved access to the ultimate tool and that is a hair color partner. This can be a fun event, I hear it all the time now. Remember we are the founding fathers of a brand new American hobby -- Hair Color. I say, why the Hell not?
Now check out the top of the head here, there should be a criss-cross exactly in the middle of the head. Don't disregard this process please...parting affects how the hair color is applied and if we want to begin a new hobby we might as well use the business model from the most successful and reputable Hair Academy in the world. They are fanatic parting practitioners, I used to get very fed up.
This parting will work for a basic hair cut, something else I want to go into, and any basic hair color application. You now have 4 quadrants, that need to be looked at as their own unique individual sections. Applying the color to each quadrant needs to be purposeful and quick. I believe if you look at just getting through 1 quadrant at a time, it will be a lot easier on you. I encourage you all to attempt the Tint Brush and bowl method of application, once you practice with it you will learn that in the end it is not only easier, the haircolor saturates the strands of hair much better. Its important to use lots of color product on the
brush and to brush it into the hair on applying. I truly do not think that can be handled with a bottle the way it needs to be.No one expects you to be "HELENA HAIR COLOR" right off the bat.
NO one, so neither should you.
Give yourself some practice I still think investing in a doll head and clamp is a worthy investment. I live alone and love it, so I never think of every other person out there who most likely lives with others...I guess you all could just sit your daughter, husband or dog down on the Sofa and ask that they let you practice on their hair. Trade them for something, most people love having their head played with, it relaxes them.
This is Part
1 of a 3 Part Series that will be completed this week . . .
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