Alkali, Hydrogen Peroxide and Mohawks

THE EFFECTS OF ALKALI And HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

Hydrogen peroxide alone will not lighten hair easily; it alone is not a decolorizer because of its acidic pH level. It must be combined with an alkaline source to produce a chemical reaction with the color dye and the pigment in the hair strands.

The most common alkaline agent used in haircoloring products is ammonia.

In addition to maintaining stability of the dye , ammonia swells the hair strand, which helps the dye molecule penetrate the cuticle and cortex layers. Ammonia also acts as a catalyst to activate hydrogen peroxide, which helps the dye molecules to couple and form.

Hydrogen peroxide in combination with ammonia will break some of the internal disulfide bonds found in the cortex of the hair.

This IS IMPORTANT:

Disulfide bonds are responsible for hair's stability and strength.

In a typical haircolor process, approximately 10% of existing disulfide bonds are destroyed. In a highlift color or bleaching, 15 — 20% may be permanently broken. The destruction of disulfide bonds leads to the production of a new molecule called cysteic acid. Although this is an inevitable side effect, an appropriate protein/moisture balance can be achieved through the Deep OVERNIGHT Conditioning Treatments I preach about all the time.

I am a true believever that overnight DEEP Conditioning can solve/repair the disulfide bond breaking that occurs when lightening hair. I hope this helps you see now, why I say "lightening the hair" weakens the hair strands....while "same Level or darker" hair color "strengthens" the strands.Read the paragraphs over and over a couple times... it will sink in promise.

• If you understand how the hair gets damaged then it helps prevent you from damaging it, continuously.
• It's important to understand the individual components of haircoloring products and their primary functions.

Essentially, most haircolor requires dye and developer to produce a result.

DYES
There are two general categories of dyes: oxidative and direct dyes. Oxidative dyes are extremely small colorless molecules that penetrate through the cuticle and into the cortex with the aid of an alkaline substance such as ammonia. Direct dyes are pre-colored molecules that coat the surface of the hair and do not require a reaction with hydrogen peroxide.

DEVELOPER (HYDROGEN PEROXIDE)
In order for oxidative dyes to form colored dye molecules, oxidation must take place. Oxidation is the chemical process of a haircolor dye reacting with a developer to form visible color. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is one of the most predominant oxidants used to develop color.

Hydrogen peroxide can be considered 'super-oxygenated' water, and is categorized by volume — most often 10, 20, 30, and 40. "Volume" refers to the 'volume' of oxygen gas contained in one 'volume' of hydrogen peroxide. It is a measure of concentration.

Each volume corresponds with a percentage level as follows:

Developer (Hydrogen Peroxide)

Volume Percentage of H202 Lifting Ability

10 Volume or 3% Deposits only

20 Volume or 6% Lifts Up to 1 level

30 Volume or 9% Lifts Up to 2-3 levels

40 Volume or 12% Lifts Up to 3-4 levels ......................Memorize these - its easy



Lower volumes of developer are used for minimal lift and staining techniques. Higher volumes are used when increased lifting of the natural pigment is desired.

Hydrogen peroxide has a dual purpose in the haircoloring process. First, it reacts with the melanin, breaking down the natural pigment and lightening the hair. This is what is referred to as 'lift'. Second, hydrogen peroxide develops oxidative dye molecules creating 'deposit' into the protein structure of the hair.