Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Our First Test Case - Hair Color Example Case


OK here we go Jo..............See this hot ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ photo up there ? ? ? ? That is RIBBONS of lights.... I just call them ribbons, my clients all have ribbons...its a very common term here in weirdo california. . . . . how nice are they? cool, huh? know why? The color on this girl is our goal FOR YOU, and it isn't hard. Why is this such a great idea for your hair????

~No Regrowth ~ Contrast is dynamic ~Cheap

~Do it Yourself ~ Lasts a long-long-long time!

NOTHING LOOKS BETTER...............NOTHING.......its my fav hair technique. I'm giving to you, when the 'girls' show up...

I've come up with a new way to truly-honestly-completely display to you how to do the ribbon lights around the face that I can't wait to show you. What we want to learn is how to put a cool dozen blond ribbon lights around the face. We want them light enough...not too light....We want them scattered not one after another tightly knit...We want them Blonde not YELLOW not ORANGE..... just a beautiful light sunkissed blond.

BUT...........in order for there not be any questions I have come up with a solution before the problem arises...I ordered a few human hair mannequins..I get them from back east....I tried it on a human model........it didn't work.

Its a long stupid story, we're going with mannequins. This will rock I promise. Any day now....because I can't wait to do these with and for you. Its a breeze. Get your supplies. Be ready to go when I get the "girls"... I've given you the list. I went to my local Sally's - pretended I was you.......and bought every single thing you need to accomplish the Ribbon Lights. You can get it all for $20. Foils, comb, tint brush, tint bowl, yada yada, peroxide and bleach. Now, don't ditto me....as I bought a small yahoo of bleach....just to see if I could get out of there for under the $20 I was hoping to. My suggestion ? go in on it with a friend...2 reasons: buy a tub o' bleach...share the equipment...and do each others hair. But, its not necessary. Not the way we are doing it....it is totally going to be a self sufficient - do-it-yourself whup-de-do. The one precursor here is this......IF you have never EVER colored your hair before....and have completely VIRGIN hair... AND It is a LEVEL 7,8 or 9... you can accomplish those Ribbons with a Blond highlift and/or a blond tint, which is (yes) not as damaging to the hair. BUT....BUT think about this.... you are putting 12 dinky little foils in your hair.... that small amount of hair color will not do enough damage to even blink at, I wouldn't bother. But if you really want to give it a go. Go ahead and purchase a tube of LEVEL 12 HIGHLIFT ASH...( why Ash? use your color wheel.... what color is ash? Ash=Green/Blue tones...... What color is Green opposite from on the color wheel? That's how it works.....you want to SQUASH a color in your hair color? Go across from it on the color wheel. I will throw a color wheel on the page for you to gander at. Yellow is a common mistake in hair color especially blondes, if you your hair is pulling Yellow and want to get rid of it......where do you go? Violets?


Right? Think of some of those violet rinses and shampoos you see for the Gray hair's.... see why? Gray hair has a strong tendency to pull lots of YELLOW....its your Grandma's biggest problem in life. "Yellowish - Gray hair" Lavender conditioner knocks it into next year!


Back to you....why would you think buying an ASH High Lift Blond would be my first choice for you without even knowing your hair color? (I didn't ask).... ash toned high-lift blond 'counteracts' any REDs/ORANGE in the blond. If you're Hispanic,Asian, pretty much any ethnic base....you have tons of red/orange in your hair.....fighting it is the hardest job.


Most of people have brown or black hair, very few people have light hair.As a busy Colorist one reaches for ASH colors across the board more than any other tone. Which probably seems odd to you, I watch new Colorists they think "I want rich warm golden blond - I never want to use ash blonds....green?blues? yuk!


What you are doing is "countering" the offensive colors....and although you are not using in that one little dumb tube of Color something that says" warm golden blond " you want a warm blond you do not want an Orange blond...... I promise you...... and that is what you are creating by using the ASH blond. if you can just start absorbing this a "little" bit...you are on your way to understanding the PRO way of COLORING Hair.


HERE IS YOUR FIRST TEST CASE>


Lets see how you do.


The color you PREFER to be is: Level 7


Your hair's NATURAL color is: Level 4.


( PRINT the chart out and put it on your fridge so it gets emblazoned on your brain)


Did you figure it out?


Now come on, I have people emailing me all the time and wanting the answers to their individual hair color questions, which I love & adore to do DO NOT get me wrong...BUT wouldn't you feel better about yourself if you could figure it out yourself?Its a teeny bit of math and a dash of common sense. Up till now no one has given the rules out -- so it seemed like some big mystery.


Guess what? It isn't ! I hope to bust that open, here and soon.


OK. let me explain it.


Subtract the natural color from the Level you want to be ( or your friend, client or dog!)


Add the difference to the preferred color Level .This will give you the proper color Level to use to achieve the desired results.


Add the difference to the preferred Color Level. This will give you the proper color level to use to achieve the desired results.


Preferred level of Color......................... Level 7 Blond


Natural Level of Color(subtract)........... (-) Level 4 Brown


Difference = 3 LEVELS



Preferred level of Color......................... Level 7 Blond


Difference (add)..................................... + 3 Levels


Level to Use.................................... = Level 10 Blond


The level of Color is a Level 10 blond


(with a blue base)or the orange{remaining pigment} will show through.


( Refer to Fig. 2.2 - tomorrows post + the thorough explanation) Think about it. Go back Review. Is this answer right?

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