I apologize for the break last week, I hope to make up for it with some of this months posts.
This week ? Bleaching and Highlights !
Today? We will begin with my absolute favorite procedure on the planet;
BLEACHING VIRGIN HAIR or......BLEACH & TONE
Why do you think this would be my favorite procedure?
Two of the most important parts of this process
- the product you use
- following directions to the T
The reason for my success in hair had a lot to do with 'who' trained me, but also
....following directions to the T.
I don't skip over steps, I feel doing the steps perfectly and precisely is important, in chemistry it is important. If any of you cook or bake...I'm sure you have noticed the difference if you measured your ingredients or if you just guessed when making a specific recipe.... Cooking is chemistry as well. Same with Hair color, measuring and following the steps are important. I have already had some readers try to jump ahead and they have had disastrous results. I am here for any of you to ask questions. Even if you want to jump ahead.
Please,if you learn nothing else from me....learn that....to follow directions.
Hair color Chemistry needs to be precise, thorough and meticulous,read and re-read until you get very familiar.
Do not cut corners, hair color chemistry does not work well that way.
I even added some steps to many of the procedures once I began studying Chemistry and had 6-7 years under my belt finding ways to help the hair stay as healthy as possible. Dealing with Hollywood, I had many clients that wanted to color their hair frequently, so with that as the criteria...their hair needed to be in top condition as well as different colors all the time...so I had to master both.
I find a lot of hair stylists would rather work with "SPEED" being their goal,so they work in volume.
That is one way I suppose..but it does not work in my world. My biggest problem was time, you cannot be fast when you add steps to what already is a very time consuming process.
PREPARATION
For this process you will need OIL BLEACH.
Oil Bleach was a trick from a famous Vidal Sassoon Colourist from England, Annie Humphries…and after many years of doing hundreds of them myself I would never do it any other way. So begin by either purchasing > Redkens - Levitation Oil Bleach through the Killer Strands Store.
I sell 1 Kit of Levitation for $19.00 which includes 2 applications + gloves, Developer of your choice, tail comb, Oil Bleach, and 2 - In-Depth samples. A complete Bleaching kit for you!
Oil Bleach is used to not only lighten hair but also to protect the scalp from the harshness of bleach .
But the added PLUS from OIL BLEACH is what people do not know....
By adding the oil to the process??? What have I taught you to use on your hair as a deep conditioner? or a "PRE"- conditioner???
OIL
...what type matters only a little.....there are some oils that are better than others....but OIL is wonderful for the condition of hair - period.
So once the cuticle is opened, the bleach goes in the hair strand and lightens the pigment/melanin that is in there...with Oil in the mixture, the oil goes in the hair strand as well...which conditions and strengthens the hair while it is lightening --- at the same time. Its an added bonus of the oil bleach.....use it whenever you can.....I have used it on the damaged hair of clients that insist on highlights even though I have told them their hair is too damaged for highlights........if hair is damaged you will protect it by using OIL BLEACH.
It angers me that so many of the companies have tried to push "oil-free" everything on the public, OIL is the best thing on the planet for your hair and your skin. That subject is a very long and passionate post by yours truly, that I will skip for now.
Just trust me, Oils are Lipids...there is nothing better for your hair than lipids.
READ this for Preparation for Bleaching hair:
{ In preparation to color hair of any type….it is said and required for everyone to perform a “strand test” on all hair coloring products. I would be doing a lousy job if I did not mention this. This means you are to mix a tiny amount of the product and apply it to a few strands of hair and to your skin underneath a Band-Aid type application, to see if you have any sort of reaction to it. In over 10,000 HEADS of hair and 15 years, I had 4 people react badly to the hair products and it was to bleach. If you are an allergic type person I would definitely not skip this step. If you are a total virgin to hair color, never had any hair color on your hair or skin. . . . I would also do this step.} By Law, I am required to tell you this and I feel you need to be made aware of it.
TOOLS NEEDED
- Towels
- Combs
- Protective Gloves
- Plastic clips
- Cape (old Tshirt)
- Plastic or Glass Bowl
- Shampoo (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-FREE)
- Peroxide 20 & 40 Volume
- After Treatment - pH Balancer - Wella IN-DEPTH Treatment (KCC Store)
- 4 OZ. measurer beaker
- Cotton Rope ( by the yard)
- Tint Brush
- Oil Bleach Lightener .......Redken LEVITATION Oil Bleach
- Blondor (Wella) - Creme Bleach - thru Killerstrands Store
- Professional Powder Bleach ...if you plan on coloring hair regularly > buy yourself a tub - it will probably last you a year. Contact me with your PayPal account Killerstrands@gmail.com
- Timer
- Protective Cream
Hair Terminology GLOSSARY #1
Color/Tint Remover > prepared commercial product designed to remove artificial pigment from hair (MOD-U-LAT now called Phantom Color Corrector)
Double Process > coloring technique requiring 2 separate procedures, in which the hair is prelightened with lightener, before the deposited color is applied (ex: bleach & tone)
Hair Lightening > chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called bleaching or decolorizing
High Lift Blonde > single process color with a higher degree of lightening action & minimum amount of color deposit
Single Process Hair Color >Oxidative tint Solution that lifts or lightens while also depositing color in one application
Toner > a pastel opaque color used to give hair a desired hue after pre-lightening
Virgin application > Natural hair that has not undergone any chemical or physical or physical abuse
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