Friday, September 21, 2007

DECOLORIZATION of Previously Colored Hair : Introduction of the Shampoo Train

3 of the Best & Safest Steps to Removing Old Hair Color

This trick normally would be the one I recommend you head to a Professional for, it is about the toughest project you can take on, aside from the endless odd Color Correction procedures.
The many I performed took most of a day, are you ready for that? This is about the most expensive procedure that one can purchase in a Salon, are you ready for that? Just the first part...pre-lightening the hair can take hours, are you ready for that? This is complicated, many very talented stylists won't take it on, they send their clients to a "Color Correction Specialist" because "they can't be bothered". . . . are you ready for this ??? Truly? I want you to understand the scope. The TRUE SCOPE of it.
But, you CAN save yourself a whole helluva lot of cash in doing it at home.
I know you think you are ready, but this is the biggest headache there is...and to be perfectly honest just writing about it, has me dreading it, I have never put it in words and frankly feel like sending you all to another color correction specialist. The reason? Each one of you are a different case, there does not exist 2 identical cases, so for me to address the particulars that will suit each one of you is impossible. That's why you cannot find anything about it -- ANYWHERE....someone is a Level 5R(red)......someone is a Level 3 G(gold) with 2 other colors underneath the Level 3 ....someone is a Level 7RG (copper)with highlights......and inevitably one of you is a Level 1 the most impossible of all Levels and colors - can you see why this is as impossible as I make it sound. I can guarantee you will get discouraged at this whole procedure. I have taken a couple dozen people from Level 1 to Level 12..although they were done in 2 days not 1, to save the integrity of the hair. It can be done, but it takes a lot of dollars in products. There is nothing that can be done about that.
You want to perform miracles????
Its going to cost you and us a lot of dough and every single chemical product that is made to pull it off, correctly.
My suggestion to all of you that want to perform this miracle is to spend at least a full week (even 2 weeks) performing the SHAMPOO TRAIN (I dubbed it that years ago and it stuck -- in Malibu anyway). I've had about a half dozen Strands readers write in with how successful this has been for them.

Just know that throughout my years of Salon and Lab work I sported very cool... very progressive color ...that is one of the suggestions taught in Cosmetology 101 , I loved it and had a great time with it. I always have Level 7 Copper hair (born a natural redhead-- yuck, huh?! I discovered when I colored my hair for fun in Cosmo School long ago....color was the best thing my hair had ever seen!) I don't have gray hair, I have a full head of hair, its long and medium thick ( I developed a program that is killer as well.That will be coming up on here....as well....even sick I have the hair of a teenager! it's great!) My hair naturally was just kind of bland and not very interesting. Coloring it gave it body, shine and interest.... Never got complements on it until I colored it all these crazy combinations of reds and blondes. I colored it every 6 weeks, religiously...which sometimes involved taking a large section of hair from a very dark Level 4 or 5 Auburn to a light copper blond Level 12. I did this to my own hair for 15 years....so I could make these radical changes in my hair fairly often.
How?
Shampoo Train. I would start the Train about 10-12 days before I was going to change my color, I could only wash at night so would do it 4-5 times every night.... I have very porous hair ( fades easily) which helps. This is the most gentle form of fading the hair color and then would top it off with 1-2 applications of PHANTOM Color Corrector. This is the 2nd most gentle method of lightening hair. So if you have tinted dark hair and are anxious to be blonde please realize.....YOU HAVE A TOUGH ROAD AHEAD OF YOU.
3 PRE-TREATMENTS for DECOLORIZATION OF HAIR :
  • Bleach Soap Cap ( 1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon powder bleach + 10 Vol Developer) Directions are on yesterdays post.
  • Shampoo Train (minimum of 1 week) (Malibu2000 - UN DO GOO Shampoo)Today's Post - below.
  • Vanish Color Corrector - THE HOLY GRAIL, this is what all of you need > purchase it in our Killer Color Clinic....attached to our GOOGLE GROUP - Killerstrands
In order to begin, depending on the previously colored hair you will need to pick 1,2 or all 3 of these procedures first.

There is no magic, you must get the color out of your hair first

There is no schedule or any rules set in stone. Depends on how many layers of colors you have on your hair....and the most difficult are going to be the ones that have used boxed hair color kits, for some reason those need a stick of dynamite to get them out. I don't know why. That is why I feel there is something strange in them.

All the professional lines of color come out of the hair nicely the cheap ones are stuck in there with something weird. I wish I knew. There is no such thing as permanent hair color.....they all fade... and especially with the SLS shampoos everyone has been using. If you are going to go thru this process make it worth it and get the proper shampoo for your hair afterwards, please.

SHAMPOO TRAIN
Used to fade artificial hair color in preparation for new color or lightening.
Tools
  • 2 bottles - Clarifying Shampoo ( #1- Malibu 2000 UN DO GOO or Well Water Action(depends on length/thickness hair)
  • Wella In Depth Treatment pH Balancer - through the Killer Color Clinic
  • 10 Plastic Caps - package of 100 =
  • THRIVEN Hair Conditioner
  • Timer
Kitchen Or Bathroom sink
Side of sink: Towel, Shampoo. In Depth Treatment, Conditioner
INSTRUCTIONS:
  1. Wet Hair & lather...this is different than shampooing, in shampooing you should be scrubbing the scalp....in the Train you're scrubbing the hair strands themselves. Picture in your mind the color molecules locked inside the cuticle of the hair strands.( clarifying shampoo on strands is trying to pull the minerals and gunk off of hair ) once you begin this process the shampoo will pull the minerals and gunk off in the first shampoo....so I have found in repeated shampoos it begins working on taking out the color !! with the very gentle citric acids (you know from the citrus of oranges,grapefruit,lemons, & pineapples)...a very cool and effective method.
  2. Praying for Clarity.....while lathered take different sections of the hair working on the darker sections the most between your two hands in the praying position, rub back and forth quickly and with pressure....for as long as you can handle it....moving around the head....keep the lather up > keep the speed pray rubbing up for 5 minutes minimum.
  3. After you've run your arms into the ground, make sure there is plenty of lather on the hair, put the Plastic cap on...if you have a blow dryer, lift an edge and shoot the hot air in on the shampooed strands for just 10-15 seconds is all..leave it that way > set timer for 10-15 minutes.
  4. Rinse with tepid water, rinse 1 minute longer than you think (no one rinses long enough when shampooing) if you are stopping here for the time being...apply IN-DEPTH & Conditioner in the normal fashion.
  5. If you are ready to proceed with 2-3-4-5 shampoos, no need for IN-DEPTH at this point. What you must do is let hair rest minimum of 30 minutes before next shampoo. You must do at least 4 per day. . 6-7 and above is best. Most effective schedule: 2 in the Morning / 1 @ Lunch / 3 in Evening.
  6. Depends on the layers of color you each have, its impossible for me to tell you how many days to do this...If you plan on getting a couple boxes of VANISH, if you don't.....there are just so many variables in this. Are you going to begin with a Soap Cap and then proceed to this. Are you going to do all 3? It's totally up to you, your pocketbook, your timeframe, PLEASE keep the condition of your hair at the top of the list. I do.
  7. Doing this for a minimum of one week is advised, after that will be your decision depending on the other factors.
  8. I have put together a Color Remover Kit that includes
  • 1 Box of VANISH ( 2 applications)
  • 1 Sponge for application
  • 2 plastic Caps
  • UN DOO GOO Shampoo - 3 applications
  • 10 Volume - Small bottle
  • My Personal Instructions on VANISH application - Tricks of my trade for getting color OUT
I have finally explained the SHAMPOO TRAIN. As I said, you must take the 3 Decolorization Techniques and figure out which you will use...I would suggest using 2. Of course, I would suggest the shampoo Train and then VANISH - 2 applications. If you have Level 1 or 2 you are going to need all 3 and 2 boxes of VANISH. Vanish is the one and only product that will work .

The absolute easiest, best and most gentle on the hair is the VANISH Color Corrector. There are 2 applications per box and it costs $30.00, if you've followed the teachings here I will be glad to let you order it from me, I can tell if you've been reading it or not.

VANISH Color Corrector truly reverses the molecular action of the color molecules and they come out without the use of any developer or bleach so it is super gentle on the hair. Super.
How light do you get it? The million dollar question....You want to get as close to your virgin hair color as possible.
Vanish does not work on natural hair - - bleach does.
So when you get close to your own hair color with the bleach soap cap it will lighten it - VANISH won't.

You want to get as much of that artificial color out as possible, yet -- preserving the condition of your hair. If the condition starts to feel "spongy" "not right" or "rough & stringy"....and especially if you start to have hair shedding or hair fall...be ready as this will happen when going through these steps (the most radical of hair coloring procedures). A small amount is normal, if it starts to be a large amount .......rinse whatever it is .... > OFF - IMMEDIATELY. Rinse,shampoo and condition immediately. Re-assess when dry. Don't panic over this warning, I just need to throw it out there, I feel better if I know I have covered everything.
For Decolorization of previously colored Hair you now have the 3 PRE-steps. Me, I would use 2 boxes of Vanish and be done with it, I understand you need other options. In the Salon someone comes in and wants it done, you have no chance to ask them to do the Shampoo Train, although with a couple people I offered them the option of that or 8-10 hours in the Salon and better conditioned hair, they took the shampoo & we did it 10 days later. You cannot just plaster the bleach on and hope it will take the color out, if you do the hair will come off your head with the color. You must perform at least 1 of the 3 Pre-Treatments, preferably 2.

There is no reason to put the directions to VANISH on here, you only need them if you purchase the product....and you can only purchase it if you have a Cosmetology License. [I have not even seen it on EBAY!] So you have the 3 PRE steps now and then you would move to the previously posted Lightening of Virgin Hair with just a couple warning steps and a couple small tricks which will tie it all together.
Questions Kids?

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