Saturday, September 22, 2007

Taking The Asian Hair Blond, James Blond !








Pitch Black Asian Hair Turned Snow White


a bit of a side note here . . . . . . . . .
a Salon trade magazine ran a pertinent article on Taking Asian Hair Blond. Its funny, when I'm working on a post, I will see a million things along the same line ... in the weirdest places....Send out good energy . . . it WILL come back to you

anyway . . . .

Trends throughout Asia and with Asian-Americans all come from Japans Harajuka district and the tweens there. While practically needing dynamite to get Asian hair - - blond , super blond is the hottest color to have. Deep Burgundy is also popular because it is easy to achieve by lightening the hair to the orange stage, then add burgundy on top -- ends up very long-lasting.(This was accidentally discovered by Stylists while on their way to blond for people that gave up)

this is from a long time colorist from an artificial hair manufacturing company..........she has been a colorist for ever... her thoughts on going blond on Asian hair ( she too is Asian) :
Her theory:
she used Clairol Basic White bleach and 20 volume developer, claims it took 5 days to get blond. She left it on 5 hours every day, and at the end of the 5 days . . .only the tips were melting; the roots were strong.

That was printed in our top Salon magazine. I have a couple of my own comments towards her theory of bleaching Asian Pitch black hair in that manner:

  • When bleach is applied the majority of its lifting ( Lightening) ability is done in the first 55 minutes...it still works for another hour or 2 ...but the speed of it comes crashing down on charts by the hair color manufactruing companies, plus by all my own tests and ultimately my clients
  • I discovered if you rinsed and re-applied a new batch, the process will stay at a moving 'fast' stage and going strong , if you REAPPLY 3 times in one day (using Oil Bleach) beginning with powdered bleach & 40 Volume -- on the ends initially....
  • You can get an Asian -- Blond in one day, is my theory. I've done it many times, and with nicely conditioned hair , as well.
  • If you have put your hair through too much in one day.... wait a week. Do that very last bleaching a week later amd then apply the toner.... the best time to apply a toner is when the hair is freshly bleached.
I see no reason to take 5 days to bleach hair. I've heard of a few people doing it over 2 or even 3 days but never...5. If you follow my directions you won't have to do that either.

You can only tone blonde bleached hair........remember that.

The process needs to be called the BLEACH & TONE Process...ALWAYS always Tone bleached hair. ...........................Did I say..to bleach toned hair? Good.


This Asian girl has Red Ribbons in her hair,
The process begins with bleached "ribbons" { they are 1/4"-1/2" pieces of hair} ,(which do not need to be white,- yellow/gold is fine) rinsed, bright Semi permanent red applied to the bleached pieces. To get bright Red use a Semi Permanent line like MANIC PANIC.....altho FUDGE & CRAZY COLORS are my favorite lines. They fade after about 3-4 weeks, you can change the color, which can be big fun... if you've never tried it, everyone should once in life.


I put this in here to remind you of the Levels hair lightens.... With Asian Hair the first bleach may only get the hair to the RED/BROWN Level....its a lot more resistant than caucasian hair, the First bleach on caucasian hair will get to the Orange/Gold or Gold Level {most likely}.
......see why there is a lot of gold and Yellow blond's walking around ??
From talking to a lot of you I can see the biggest problem with most -- is hesitation with putting the bleach on more than once. I can tell you from 15 years of hair in Hollywood and MALIBU....I never bleached anyone's hair once.
Except Trevor. Remember Trevor? He is a Natural Level 10! Super Rare.






See the different "tones" of Blond here???

Underneath they are bleached the perfect, 'pale yellow/white'.......... then a different color TONER is applied.

Above has a Pale Golden Blond Toner, The second has an Apricot IceToner (tiny bit of copper in blond) . . . . the small photo below is Platinum Or "white toner" .... I used to call it the Marilyn White toner............Now can you see and thoroughly understand TONER??

Tomorrow you will learn to apply one. The Directions will double as directions for semi permanent Color (BOUGHT SEPARATELY --- at the beauty supply -- Tube of Color & Developer separate)

I am going to go over the Application procedures for EVERY SINGLE type of Color.

Using a HEAD SHEET ( piece of paper w/ 4 heads drawn) so you will know

  • where to start,
  • how large to make the partings
  • width of the partings for application of color

all the particulars, so you feel more secure when you buying color and developer separate - - - trying to get you all away from KITS!!!! . Is it working???

HOW DOES THAT SOUND?

Killer Chemist

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