Questions - Calculations & 'mo
Now that I have helped befriend our dear darling Peroxide,
In addition, I'd like to fill in with what else I can about Hydrogen Peroxide to help you all warm up even more to the little bugger. There are many chemicals just like this little one, which is a terrific project that needs to be rescued by the big MFG. companies, I get my hopes up that big companies like P & G (whom actually I would love to work for > altho only on the "Green" side) might have researchers scoping the net trying to figure out the future of Hair, Hair Health and Hair Color - at which point they Zero in on my Web site and their prayers are answered. They call and ask me to advise them, develop a Killer Line of both Hair Color that involves teaching the public, the LEVEL System and shampoos and styling products that are actually moisturizing and healthy for the hair. Its easy, its possible and it can be done at reasonable prices. I swear to you I am just not too sure why it is not done now. What is better than a completely happy customer with Killer hair color. The way it is now the only reason people use those damn boxed color kits is because they are afraid to calculate the hair color themselves. I don't believe "fear-driven" success is near as prosperous as "confidant & successful" driven success
Killerstrands@gmail.com
There was an instance I bet when I mentioned "chemicals" that blew that fear of "Word Phobia" through your bones, am I right? Be honest - people hear "chemicals" and think; bad - horrible - get them away from me thoughts, when in fact so much of what we need, we require and what we actually want are chemicals in our daily life. Of course there are "bad ones" and "good ones" and there are bad 'amounts' of them and good 'amounts' - that is the fine line that must be maneuvered
Chemicals are all around us, always, and always have been. We are made of chemicals, indeed chemicals R Us. The plants we eat are also full of chemicals. But how does the body deal with these chemicals and what do they do to us?
The chemical industry has been able to make the stunning revelation that everything is made of chemicals! Chemicals are in fact perfectly natural substances and we really need to do more research before throwing them out . Apparently thousands of the so-called 'natural' products of the earth are laced with nasty toxic substances, of which, of course, we were all unaware until this startling discovery was made known to human kind chemicals are not only man made and not all of the chemicals made by man are dangerous and not all of the chemicals found naturally are safe. Some people will say that there must be a difference between things made by chemists in laboratories and things found in nature? It is true, there are differences, natural chemicals are often more complex and chemists find some very difficult to make! For example DNA and proteins are extremely complex. But surely man made chemicals must be more poisonous? Not necessarily true. We won't go into the entire discussion here. I just needed to point out - what I stumbled upon when I began my dive into Cosmetic Chemistry. Being a Vegan and a natural food buff for my entire life (yep californians are weird!) it was a very unusual revelation to come to terms with. So just know I watch out for every single healthy avenue for hair - I truly do, I doubt you will ever encounter a hair stylist more in tune with the "natural" "organic" and "healthy" avenues than me, except for maybe those that don't believe in hair color at all. I also live under the umbrella of " life cannot be all that serious" - we must have some fun, because life is short - play hard.
Again: H2 O is Water: a chemical- bad? I think not. Necessary? Very. When the Developer begins working with your hair color it starts out with 2 atoms of hydrogen and 2 of oxygen as soon as it is combined with the hair color 1 of the oxygen molecules is given off and the product is down to what? H2 O! Water. And that is bad? See how things get out of whack? Peroxide is your friend, it really is.
Hydrogen Peroxide is the OXIDIZER of permanent haircolor-ing, providing the Oxygen for
- lightening of natural pigment and for the
- development of artificial pigment.
Those 2 lines say it all, but those are 2 jam packed lines. Read them over a couple times as this will put your mind in the right frame to continue on.
The percentage of lift in any color is directly related to its ammonia content ( remember many stylists will quote "ammonia content" as a bad thing), in the Killerstrands world I: look for LIFT. Lift means lightening - plain and simple - if you don't want to lighten hair, do something else....most decent Colorists are looking to lighten hair...we want more ways to lighten hair....we want more conditioning ways of lightening hair. Don't people want to be blond?.... have blond ribbons, blond pirouettes, or blond under color blocks?? Lightening is the most common coloring technique in the biz... Every single time a new lightening product is developed it is greeted with a very warm reception by 10's of thousands of hair stylists so ammonia content is a very necessary product.
Blondes are very very popular, whether in 1 Color 'all-over-blond' or blond placed in very creative ribbons in a dynamic head of brown. If you can attain the lightening, then you can control it -- or tone it, is my theory. I want as much lift as they can give me, let "me" control the amount I use and where I use it. Maybe they don't because of all the mis-information going on around, but come on... that problem is easily solved. The biggest complaint category of hair color is
- "too brassy"
- "too orange"
- "too yellow"
- "too gold"
....have you all learned this one yet? What would be the reason for these 4 complaints?
Not enough lift - if you have those 4 problems then you have taken the bleach off TOO SOON
So having more lift, while remaining more conditioning & moisturizing has finally hit the manufacturers. There is a new "conditioning" Developer by Redken, they have teamed up with their new product Blond Icing. Like I said, more jazzy new lighteners the better - we love the new technology -- just like in any field. Bring in a new product that works 'higher' - 'faster' - 'longer' - of course we'll jump on it.
The developer has a few of the moisturizing alcohols - cetyl alcohol - stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol which are lipid based moisturizers and marvelous for the structure of hair. I thought of that trick as soon as I discovered how these worked a couple years back, what takes these companies so long, when they are in the business of manufacturing hair color?
You know why?
Because its a whole slew of Lab Rats sitting in their Labs at Redken,Clairol, or Wella or what-ever-hair color manufacturers International that don't have the Technician <> to CLIENT connection. That's why there is a lag in the business, and I only discovered that when I went from the TECHNICIAN to the LAB RAT, a step that is rarely if EVER taken by anyone. When they take someone like a FREDERIC FEKAI ( which i refer to as the Technician/Stylist)....or a Jonathin Antin and ask them to put their name on a product.... they do not TEACH them HOW the products are made....which ingredients do 'what'....or ANY of that technical B/S I hate to say. I know, because I was there. If I hadn't gotten sick I would have never had the time nor inclination to study Chemistry for 3 years - because to truly understand which ingredients should be used and "why" is just not something that can be learned in a day or a week.
The 'way' that shampoos work, must be understood.........not simple
Remember me rambling on about SLS shampoos - I did for weeks on end...??? Remember? Sulfate-free shampoos....? ? ? ? Which by the way> every single company on the market has one in production. Well, the one and only reason I have the confidence to make that claim is because I do understand "how" the shampoo works ...how each surfactant works and "how" each ingredient works. I have watched and breathed SLS and seen the damage it can do to a strand of hair...but Technicians do not have that advantage. What they do have is a company telling them whats in each of the shampoos, etc, and hoepfully going on their advice. Its a wonderful library of information to have and I Love the fact that I was afforded the time to study all the chemicals and ingredients and know what they are and "why"!
...so I know what everything is now when I look at it...But> remember the FREDERIC Fekkai's of the world.... and their $250.00 Conditioner - are not worth it - THRIVEN will blow the socks off it - on 86% of the candidates.. So let's hope you are one of those chosen few where the stars meet the sky.
I am NOT putting them down for that fact...what I am trying to do is educate everyone so we all understand how the system works. The more we educate hopefully the more we can improve on the system in place. Any large company like that should have a board of advisors that use their products and are constantly giving them advice and direction as to where the company needs to go with new products - blows me away how UN-innovative the hair industry actually is.
This industry should be setting the trends not lagging on them.The way the industry is now, Hair Color products are antiquated - archaic almost, I've had ideas for them for years that I do not understand why they have not made or attempted to make. Hair color is a tremendously booming business - 2 $ billion a year is a very conservative estimate and the more tools the better for every Colorist: whether it be a Crib Colorist or Pro.
Why not put more tools in the hands of Home Hair Colorists? What's the big secret? There is plenty of hair color that needs to go around... why is there not a level of Pro Hair Color available for the women at home that don't live in LA or NY that desire the quality of hair seen on every magazine cover? There is plenty for the Salon Colorist, which is not available to CRIB COLORISTS - why not? There is so much room for growth - expansion and this subject needs to be talked about and discussed openly so that the women of America are able to achieve decent hair color in their own homes. For the many women that cannot afford or do not live near the high dollar hair salons...they are stuck using hair color products that are a much lower quality than the hair color if they go to Cosmetology School. Do you realize that there are lines of hair color that I may get in trouble for selling to the public - which I cannot figure out "why"?? Anyone care to address this subject with and for me...
How can it be against the law to sell 'certain' hair color?
To certain people?
Then all the hair color in Sally's need to be against the law to sell to the American people....which "brand" is OK? and which one isn't? more importantly - WHY???
Who sets those standards? There aren't any sort of laws.....or rules....or ???? Why can I not sell hair color that I have legally bought, to another person that would like to buy it ?? Because that person has not gone to Cosmetology School, what book is that a law in? That is the most bizarre restriction - ever . I looked in Sally's and the exact same thing is printed on a box of hair color in Sally's that is printed on a box of hair color from a professional company. BOTH of those companies are owned by the same larger company.....that larger company?
P & G. Proctor and Gamble. CLAIROL & WELLA
BOTH OWNED ULTIMATELY - - BY P & G
I'm not done reviewing : ammonia and peroxide so please put that subject in the "hold" category. I ran a whole new demo for Readers to show you what bleach with ammonia and bleach without ammonia did to Level 4 hair.....so stand by.
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