Thursday, February 7, 2008

What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In

Wella's "Color Touch" Line of demi permanent hair color



This is hard for me, I will say this is the first 'reveal' from my arsenal of secret weapons. I have not quite stressed the importance & significance of my personal Arsenal of Secret Weapons of Hair, the group I have not had the backbone to crack open yet. Within my arsenal , as with all top Stylists, I have absolute ... undeniable ... solutions to these problems:




  • Gray coverage - 100% {hair color formula}

  • growth spurt for hair

  • off the chart SHINE

  • solution for damaged strands

  • Recipe for hair conditioner

  • Solution to thinning hair for women (just the beginning)


I have a couple dozen of these that I have held back on, waiting for just the right moment to "reveal" to Killerstranders. Its hard...you keep these secrets for an entire career - become known for the dynamic results ... and then ... to do a complete 180 and reveal . . all those treasures. Most of us at this level plan on writing a book, I did. I would still like to. I can see that the level of my tricks are a bit over everyone's head - but I think as soon as you begin to use them and get more comfortable with the vocabulary and techniques you will realize & appreciate them, I hope you listen and learn and realize what a wonderful little treasure most of you have stumbled upon. I still feel this site is one of those rare reasons you THANK THE LORD for the Internet! If you follow my guidance you will have truly learned the upper elite method of tackling hair - hair color and hair health issues - the professional way. I've flipped through some of the other hair books on the market, and either I have done a lot more research than the other colorists/stylists or they are just not doing the "big reveal" as I have always hoped to do. I'm still reeling from just the trauma of writing this reveal, on the flip side I can't wait for you all to try them.



When I wrote the 1st page of this series, I had decided not to tell Killerstranders about the true wonders of Color Touch, so I went off on the Color Charm Demi Line, which is a decent line and have heard nothing but positive results in regards to it. Today, it just seemed ridiculous to keep something like that a secret...what for? Who for? Why not? Its an inner battle I have with myself, I thought I would share, so you see that I am not just rambling off brands and pointless recommendations. That was not, nor is not...the point of this site.





This question has plagued me so, that some mornings I wake up and just think, I am going to list every single secret and get it over with. . . which is equally as idiotic.



All top Colorists/Stylists in the USA, Canada & UK are like that, every last one. We have spent a long time perfecting different formula's - different tricks so when we get that call to color hair for that hair color commercial, print ad, photo shoot or editorial - the hair we color will be the shiniest hair on the planet, or that will be your last call. That is how utterly important it is to have these type of tricks in the arsenal. Wella's Color Touch Line is the line I know dozens of top Colorists (besides me) use, as that one secret hair color weapon that can be surpassed by no other.



We use Color Touch "under" the final color, one way around > "did you use the 'actual' product" you are selling - problem.. We will use it 'over' the final color and call it a "rinse"(hee hee) There have been times I have used just "Color Touch" and the shoot was for a completely different product. That's just Hollywood, boys and girls. I'm not here to blow whistles, photo shoots are not a court of law, there is nothing more phoney than a photo shoot or the production of a commercial.



That being said, let me finish my schpeel on Semi & Demi-Permanent Color.



As I was trying to stress a true semi permanent color is one with NO developer or "activator" they are a DIRECT DYE or PREFORMED DYE...because they color the hair directly 'without' developer. That is how the category needs to stay. Never purchase a semi permanent color that has a second bottle of "whatever liquid" to mix into it...this is one of the single most abused categories by the big hair color companies. Misleading the public by stating their product is a "semi-permanent", because they know full well there is no laws they are technically breaking. But, come on...with the hundreds of dis-satisfied customers I met over the years, you know they had to hear about it over and over at corporate headquarters. Many modern semi's are really oxidation products, Oxidation hair coloring oxidizes. or combines with oxygen, as it processes.



Semi Permanent products color the hair without an oxidation process,they simply stain the cuticle and to some degree the cortex. Being a direct dye they are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, but are much larger than the indirect dyes of permanent hair coloring. It is self penetrating, relying on plain ole absorption to enter the hair. Where the hair is more porous, it becomes more stained. These products are usually alkaline, which increases absorption by softening and swelling the hair somewhat. Heat processing in combination with the use of foils is a terrific tool as well it helps penetration therefore lengthening the staying power.



Demi permanents are basically a hybrid. Part Semi - - - part permanent. A semi permanent with a developer, a no lift (no lighten) permanent hair color.



Advantages of DEMI-PERMANENT color over Semi-permanent hair color:




  • greater penetration

  • more deposit

  • incredible Shine

  • better coverage on gray

  • natural appearance

  • lasts longer

  • more intensity

  • better overall coverage


Some demi's, depending on porosity may lighten the natural pigment...if that does happen , in my opinion it has reached into the "permanent" line of color.



Use the Figures of Hair to notice the difference in the Cuticle, the Cortex, and the Medulla. . . . and where the color molecules go to on each one. Its easy to see the hybrid of the Demi permanent hair colors.



The primary defining characteristic of the hair coloring categories is duration....how long the color change lasts.



The Demi's are really designed for almost everyone that enters the Salon - deposit-only hair color is a wonderful thing. Demi's and especially Color Touch have a conditioning effect, they shine and bulk up the hair...so just tell me which one of you doesn't want shinier, fuller, more lustrous hair?



This is the secret, we have used for the past 10 years, I am making the entire line of Wella's Color touch available to you. That's how much I believe in it and want you to experience its wonders. If you need a toner, because you're a yellow blond, you want to add some low lights in mink beige, or you want the exact toner that Pink & Gwen use you now have access to them all. Color Touch even has a "SILVER" (another of my secret weapons).... leave this Silver on in foils for 30 minutes with heat, cover with Clairol's Glorious Grey's and this Silver can and will last for 10-14 days! That's HUGE.



Here's a link to one of the 4 online color charts of Color touch.http://www.wellausa.com/consumer/products_consumer/international_line_consumer/color_touch/swatch_charts/classic.jsp Which in no way comes close to doing Color Touch justice.



What I will do........ for $19.00 :

  • 1 tube of Color Touch
  • plus developer to go along with it
  • 1 pair of Gloves -
  • 1 Tail Comb to part hair with
  • 1 sample of "IN DEPTH" After-Color Treatment

There are 2 choices of developer,

  1. "Gentle" for "toning"(7 Volume) or more conservative methods....or
  2. "Intensive" (16 Volume) used for gray coverage, coverage, and most other instances.

1 Tube of color should be enough to do 2 heads of hair unless you have very long - thick hair. 1 Color Touch Kit will be $19.00 plus shipping.

I am working on way to better display the colors to you - please send me an email if you are interested Killerstrands@gmail.com

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